Tips to Keep Your Car on the Road Long


A car is a major investment and regular preventive maintenance will allow you to keep it on the road for ten years and more.

If you want to keep your car on the road and out of the shop, consider the following six tips:

1. Change your filter regularly

Checking fluid levels regularly and changing the fluids and filters periodically can minimize the risks of breakdowns and prolong the life of the engine, transmission, cooling system and brakes.

You need to change air filters, fuel filters and oil filters on a regular basis to keep your engine performing well. In countries with high sulfur fuel, you need to change your fuel and oil filter in half the recommended time. Air filter needs to be changed every two months in rural areas and deserts, and windy and dusty countries. Most folks change their oil filter when they are draining and replacing their engine oil and fuel filter every six months.

2. Check and replace Fluids

A car is a machine and like any machine it needs oil replaced on a regular basis. Engine oil needs to be changed every 5000 miles, engine coolant flushed and replace every six months and transmission fluid every two years or every 30,000 miles whichever comes first. Flush and replace your brake fluid and power steering every two years.

Engine oil is the one that needs to be looked at regularly. A few years ago you were asked to check the oil level every time you went to the petrol pump but now it is fine if you check the engine oil level every month and fill it if it is below the safe level.

3. Drive safely

Nothing reduces a car’s value and longevity than an accident so safe driving habits are essential. Follow all traffic rules and avoid speeding. Don’t drive drunk and avoid texting and talking on mobile phone while driving. Avoid driving when you are tired and drowsy.

4. Don’t drive as much and avoid short trips

The more you drive your car, the more wear and tear it gets. If you walk as much as possible to nearby destinations, you not only improve your health, you also increase your car’s life.

A large numbers of short trips of 10 minutes and less cause a lot of wear and tear as cars don’t have the time to reach optimum operating temperature. Walk if possible or combine a number of errands for a longer trip.

5. Get annual checkup done

Find a good honest mechanic and get a thorough maintenance done at least once a year. The mechanic will check your battery, check and change your fluids and filters, check air-conditioner refrigerant, get your tires rotated and balanced and your alignment checked, change your spark plugs and replace your wipers if necessary, He will thoroughly clean up your vehicle innards and ferret out any possible problem with the car and recondition it as new.

6. Choose a good car

If you want your car, pickup truck or SUV to last then research the model and its track record. Stick with major brands as Toyota, Ford, Nissan and Mercedes-Benz and you cannot go wrong. If you want a pickup go for the Indestructible Toyota Hilux, if you are looking for a Sport Utility Vehicle then Toyota Fortuner, Toyota Prado or Toyota Land Cruiser are good options. If you are looking for luxury vehicles then a BMW, Mercedes-Benz or Porsche will work best.


Source by Mark Marlee

Mercedes Benz Internal Code Revealed


Mercedes-Benz has quite the complicated internal code lineup, with a puzzling combination of letters and numbers to symbolize every vehicle. It started out as a simple letter and number combination, but the introduction of newer models created a new list of internal code lineups. The letter and number combination used to correspond to the engine displacement, but that’s not always the case today. This is a quick guide on what all of the letters and numbers mean.


This is the smallest car in the Mercedes brand lineup that’s appropriately given the first name of the alphabet. The code name is W176, with “W” as a four/five door passenger car.


The B-Class is the second smallest car so it’s pretty self-explanatory how it got this label.


The labeling of the C-Class becomes more complicated. It’s internally christened as W205 and also named the S205, with S standing for station wagon. In upcoming models, the coupe will also receive an internal code of C205 and A204, with “C” as coupe and “A” as convertible.


The E-class consists of more than one model, with an internal name of W212. However, the station wagon gets S212. The E-Class coupe is not named C212 as one would assume, but as C207. This is because it shares more in common with the previous generation C-Class 204. The “E” in E-class used to mean “injection” in German.


The S-Class, means “special class” in German because this large sedan was and is still the top of the line vehicle in the Mercedes range. Its code named W222 while the S-class coupe is named the C217. Future convertibles will be named as A217.


The CLA is marketed as a four-door coupe with a C117 code name, much to the confusion of many Mercedes Benz fans.


This is also a four-door coupe, with the internal code name of C218. The crossover version is named the X218.


The SLK is the smallest roadster in the Mercedes line, with code R172. The “R” stands for roadster.


The SL roadster is actually much like the SLK and appropriately named the R231.

With the addition of many Mercedes Benz vehicles in the future, the internal code name is sure to get complicated really fast. The code names may be difficult to memorize at first, but once you get the hang of it and understand why the codes are given to the vehicles, then they will be pretty understandable.


Source by Eric Wu

Are You Buying New or a Second Hand Boat?


What are the pro’s and con’s between New and secondhand?

New Boats:

With a new boat you will know the history of the boat, the interior and the engine.

If something happens like: the boat leaks or there is a engine failure you will have your warranty

to fall back on.When you finance a new boat, you can usually get a

much better interest rate as well.Also you don’t have to spent time and money on repairing or restoring a older boat.You can just sail out right after you bought your boat.

Secondhand boats:

Secondhand boats are a great choose if this is the first time you are buying a boat

and don’t really know what to do with it, or when you are on a tight budget.Even when your planning on buying a new boat its best to take the first steps in a boat that did not cost you that much. Not because you would sink it because you don’t have the experience as a captain yet , but maybe boating is not what you thought it would be and then you would have lost more money on a new boat then on a used boat.

Visiting boat shows is a great tool to narrow down your list with type of boats that you prefer.Also is the internet there are many websites with new and secondhand boats, take the time to do your research it can save you a lot of money or a lot of time restoring.

Happy boating.


Source by Dave Zegers

Hydraulic Jack – An Important Instrument in The Construction Industry & Workshops


Have you ever gone to a service station? The Cars are usually loaded onto a platform which rises gradually. This platform uses the same tool called The Hydraulic Jack. This device or a mechanical instrument is used to raise heavy objects manually with the need of human effort. The most common ones are the mechanical jacks. However there are few others like floor jacks and bottle jacks which are often used. All of them employ the same basic phenomenon but they differ in their shape.

A hydraulic jack uses a fluid, which is incompressible and is constrained into a cylinder by a pump piston. Oil is utilised, as the plunger backs away, it guides oil out of the source by a suction valve in side the pump chamber. When the piston displaces ahead, it drives the oil through a discharge check valve into the piston chamber. The suction valve ball is within the chamber and cleals with each pass of the plunger. The dispatch valve ball is out of the chamber and opens when the oil is forced into the cylinder. Now the suction ball inside the chamber is closed and pressure of the oil increases in the piston chamber.

The Jacks are usually used to lift heavy objects. They can use different methods like the car jack uses the lead screw to lift the heavy car. The Acme threads withstand heavy weighed cars. Likewise, the Hydraulic jack is also used to lift heavy objects by a manual force. Pascal's principle is used here, which states that the pressure in a closed container is same at all points. A force divided by area using this equation defines the pressure. Hydraulic jack is built with two cylinders, one big while the other small. One application of a small force can lift heavier objects placed on the bigger cylinder; both these cylinders are filled with oil.

Hydraulic jacks are distributed to different types with a difference in construction. There are Floor Jacks in which the horizontal piston presses on the short end of a bell crank, with the long arm providing the vertical motion to an elevating pad, kept level with a horizontal linkage. Floor jacks usually include castors, which allow compensation for the curve adopted by the lifting pad. This mechanism allows for a low profile when collapsed, for comfortable operation beneath the vehicle, while providing extensive elongation.

In Bottle Jacks the piston is upright and directly holds a bearing pad that holds the object being hoisted. With a single action piston the elevation is slightly less than twice the folded height of the jack, making it appropriate only for cars with a comparatively high clearance. For elevating structures like houses the hydraulic interconnection of multiple perpendicular jacks through valves enables the level distribution of forces while sanctioning close control of the lift.

The Hydraulic jack is quite an important instrument in construction industry and workshops because it decreases a lot of work for the mechanics and laborers, and they have vast applications in these fields.


Source by Aya Wilkinson

VIN Number Decoding For Classic Muscle Cars


One of the best pieces of advice I was ever given in regards to buying a classic muscle car was to invest in high quality resource materials so I could crack the code on Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) to make sure that I was not getting scammed.

The best way to find a high quality book is to find what the experts are using. With the internet, you can type a subject like Camaro restoration book into the Amazon search box. You can also Google it and follow the links, which will take you to various forums and websites. Chevrolet by the Numbers, by Alvin Colvin, is the best book I have ever found for Chevrolet part numbers, Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN), trim tags, and model ID. The book is an easy read, with chapters designated to the different components. Again, I used this process in my quest to purchase a rare Camaro. Just Google the car you are looking for and follow the links. The best resources will be obvious.

Here is a list of objects you will need when decoding your car.

Small flashlight, notebook, resource or reference book, mechanics mirror, pen or pencil, cordless or corded droplight, floor jack and jack-stands, coveralls, rags, brass wire brush, brake cleaner, yellow or white colored grease pencil, digital camera or camcorder.

If you are continuing to read this information, I can only surmise that buying a classic muscle car with the proper numbers and matching parts is important to you! Good! It should be! If this is true, I will walk you through an example of decoding a car. This will give you an idea of what it takes to properly decode a car.

Be prepared to take your time. I also discovered a sure fire way to determine who your true friends are. Ask them to go along to help you decode a car! Having an extra body can sometimes cut your time in half. I also recommend finding an expert or consultant on your car, and buying a couple of hours their time, especially if you are looking to purchase a special model classic car. It’s been my experience that an extra set of eyes can only help the cause. I found an expert through one of my reference books. Prior to me going to look at my current car, I spent about an hour talking with him, and making a list of things I should be looking for. (Of course, if you want someone to handle the process from A to Z, services are available. This is a great option if you are buying the car from remote.)

The Process

Before I arrived the owner told me the car was basically a roller project, meaning the engine and transmission were removed from the car. The engine, transmission and other components were placed in a pile where it would be easy to look at the numbers. The owner also claimed it was a limited edition Camaro, yet he didn’t have any paperwork like an original order invoice, or a protect o plate (a special metal plate shaped like a credit card that is used for warranty and repair services). This type of paperwork trail eliminates the need for further documentation. If you do not have this type of paperwork, then follow along. When I arrived at the location where the car was stored, the first thing I did was to check the VIN number. The VIN number is probably the most important number on a car. If you do not know how to decode a VIN on a particular Chevrolet, you will be unable to verify other components or numbers. What is nice about the book is it actually walks you through the whole decoding process, including providing the specific numbers location. As a sidebar, any good resource book on your particular make and model car will outline the way to decode your car, including number locations and decoding info. On 1968 and 1969 Camaros, the VIN number is located on the top of the dash board, on the drivers side. The number is visible through the windshield. I wiped the dirt and dust off of the VIN tag, and copied the numbers into my notebook.

VIN number

I was able to determine that my car was originally a V8, it was a 2 door sport coupe, made in 1969, assembled in Norwood Ohio, and it was the 662,8XXrd car built at that plant in that year.

Trim tag.

In 1969, all Camaro trim tags were located in the engine compartment, riveted on the upper left hand corner of the firewall. I took my rag and cleaned all of the dust and gunk off of the trim tag. Since the numbers were not that clear, I recleaned the trim tag, and removed the rest of the gunk. I used my flashlight to illuminate the numbers, and then copied the numbers into my notebook. Some of the trim tag numbers matched up with the VIN tag numbers, which was a good sign. The remaining numbers indicated that my car body was number 353,XXX to come down this plant’s assembly line. The interior was originally a standard black interior, and the car was built in the first week of June, 1969. The car was originally painted dusk blue and it was equipped with a spoiler package and a chrome trim package. So far everything was lining up. The reason for all of this detail is to illustrate how you can confirm that what you think you are buying is exactly what you are getting.

Before I move on, I want to share how this is relevant. A husband and wife from my car club went to look at a Chevelle. The car was advertised as a Super Sport. During the inspection process, and referencing the above book, they uncovered a number of inconsistencies. According to the numbers, the car had originally started out as a plain Jane 6 cylinder car. The car was now painted a different color, had a different color interior and a different engine. You get the picture. Over the years, one (or more) of the previous owners modified the car and tried to make it into a Super Sport. The point is it may have not been done maliciously, but the car still did not start out as a true Super Sport. And having the Super Sport option obviously raises the value of the car.

Engine code identification.

The engine is stamped in (2) places on a 69 Camaro. One is on the right front engine pad. The other location is on the rough casting portion on the rear of the engine, just above the oil filter. Again I wiped off the areas I just described with brake cleaner sprayed on a rag. You need to have a clean surface, and normally brake cleaner will do the trick. The front engine pad numbers appeared to have been restamped at one time, maybe after the engine block was decked (Decking in a machine process to check the flatness of the block deck for irregularities that cause compression and water leaks.) The tricky part is reading the numbers on the area above the oil filter. I recommend a really bright light and a magnifying glass. If that doesn’t do it, then I suggest taking a little muriatic acid an applying it to the numbers. This should make the numbers readable. The reason this number is sometimes hard to decipher is because these engines were hand stamped, and punched onto a rough surface. According to the numbers, I determined the engine was a 425 horsepower high performance engine, with a 4 speed manual transmission. The last numbers also corresponded with the last numbers in my VIN, which meant this was the original engine to this car. The numbers told me the engine was assembled June 14, which fell in line with the build date. The engine block part number that is cast into the rear of the block was cleaned with a rag and brake cleaner as well. The block part number indicated ahigh performance block used for Camaros. Another piece of the puzzle confirmed.

Rear axle identification.

The numbers on a Camaro rear axle are stamped on the top of the right axle tube. My experience has been that this area is normally pretty crusty and rusty. And this rear axle was no exception. After considerable wire brushing, I wiped the area clean with brake cleaner. Laying on my back, I shone the light on the area, while holding a mirror. It still wasn’t clear enough for me to read accurately. I then took my grease pencil, and ran it over the numbers. The purpose of the grease pencil is to provide contrast with the metal of the axle tube. When I put the mirror back over the area, I was rewarded with a very sharp image of the part numbers, which I copied into my notebook. According to the numbers, this rear axle assembly had a 4.10:1 gear ratio, limited slip. The axle was assembled June 16, 1969. Are you seeing a pattern starting to appear here? The axle numbers also indicated the axle to be original to the car based on the dates codes referencing June 1969 build date. I took the same approach with the other parts.

Here are my findings. The cylinder heads, intake manifold, carburetor, and transmission were the correct part numbers for the car. However none of these parts were date coded to the car. One of the heads was manufactured in April 1968, the other head was manufactured in February of 1969. The transmission was manufactured Jan 24th 1969. The reason I know all of these parts are not correctly date coded to the car is I decoded each one, by researching the part numbers, and date codes. All of this information is important, because not only did it verify what the owner had told me, and it also showed that the other parts were in line with the build date. Thereby providing further confirmation of what I was looking at. During my investigating, I took pictures with a digital camera of all of the parts and part numbers, as best as i could. I spent about 30 minutes walking around the car with a video camera and editorializing what I was taking footage of. I also took the list of things the Camaro expert had told me about and checked them off one by one. Later in the week I called the Camaro expert and shared my findings. I reviewed all of my research, including going over the individual part numbers, and the “things to look for” checklist. By the end of the phone call, I was 99 percent positive that this Camaro was what it was being advertised as.

The last thing I did was to have the car documented and certified by a Certified Camaro appraiser.

GM also stamped hidden VIN numbers in (2) different places on the car. The reason for the hidden VIN numbers was to add another step in preventing and identifying a stolen car. Because it is fairly easy to remove and swap out the VIN tag on the dash, the hidden VIN’s provided a back-up system of check and balances. For example, someone could possibly swap out a VIN tag, but if they didn’t know about the Hidden VIN numbers, a person in the know could easily identify the numbers not matching up. Because the car was bought a roller project, it was easy to check these hidden VIN’s, against the VIN tag on the dash. I wanted the appraiser to check them personally, and he confirmed the numbers as matching and authentic. In other words the certificate authenticates the car. Many appraisers will also supply you with a report on their findings. The nice thing about having a car certified is this type of paperwork is normally viewed as iron clad documentation. It normally raises the value of the car, because of the authenticity certificate. And if you ever go to sell the car, now you have documentation to provide the seller that the car is a real (Super Sport, Rally Sport, Z/28, etc. You fill in the blank)

Some people may wonder why would anyone go through all of this work.

However, keep in mind that many of these muscle cars are 20 plus years old and have gone through numerous owners and modifications. All of that history is prior to it being restored back to showroom original condition. In other words, many parts are bolt on and interchangeable from other models and different years. So just because the parts look ok, doesn’t mean that they even belong on the car. In the above example about the couple and the Chevelle, the car was priced as a Super Sport, yet the trim tag and other numbers reflected a totally different story. Even though the car was beautifully restored, it was really nothing more than a modified 6 cylinder, base model Chevelle that someone converted over to a V-8 at some time in it’s life. Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with modifying a car to an individual owners taste. The issue is when the car is sold and the seller forgets to mention (consciously or unconsciously) and inform the new owner of the modifications. Our Chevelle couple would have gladly paid the asking price if the car was a true Super Sport. But, because they knew how to decode the car, they were able to save themselves a lot of time, money and aggravation. At the time the difference between a plain Jane Chevelle and a real Super Sport was over $10,000. Just to throw some numbers out there, let’s be conservative and say it takes 6 hours of research to decode a car. Using our $10,000 figure, that equates to approximately $1,600 an hour. Not a bad return on your time investment. As muscle and classic cars have become more popular, I have seen many cases where just for the fun of it, an owner will start to do research on a car he or she owns.

Discovering your car isn’t really what you thought you purchased can really knock the wind out of you. By investing a small amount of money, and time, in researching and decoding your prospective muscle car purchase you can sleep at night knowing that you received the value you paid for. Anyone else interested in investing a couple of hours for peace of mind when purchasing a classic or muscle car???


Source by Timothy Leary

Motor Oil Analysis Testing on the Cheap – The Blotter Spot Test


It is often difficult to know for certain just how long your oil could last before needing a change. The type of car you drive, the size of the engine, the age of the engine, the type of driving that you do and the type of oil that is in your crankcase will ALL have a significant effect on oil longevity.

Of course, quick lubes will continue to tell you that 3,000 mile changes are a necessity, and, for SOME people, this may be true. However, for the vast majority of us, this hasn’t been necessary for a good many years. Unfortunately, determining just HOW LONG is OK can be difficult.

Enter Oil Analysis

The best way to establish realistic oil change intervals is via oil analysis. Those who have been professionally trained to test oil and who have expensive lab equipment at their disposal are certain most qualified to determine the quality of the used oil sitting in your vehicle.

Such a thorough analysis of your oil can be cost prohibitive, though, since a professional oil analysis can often cost as much as a 5 quart petroleum oil change.

The Result – We Don’t Do It

Of course, the result is that most folks won’t pay for a “true” oil analysis – but they might be willing to perform a simple oil analysis themselves, if they knew how to do it. It won’t give you detailed numbers as you’d get from a lab, but it can give you a fairly good idea of how well your oil is holding up, thus helping you decide whether it’s time to make a change or not.

Below you’ll find detailed instructions for 1 of 6 layman’s oil analysis tests that you can use to determine how well your oil is holding up and whether it’s ready for a change. In this way you can begin to set realistic oil change intervals for your vehicle.

Performing the Test

Using just this simple layman’s oil analysis test can shed light on a wide range of potential oil problems which could require an oil change: excessive particulates, condensation build-up, glycol contamination, fuel dilution, failure of dispersant additives, formation of sludge and oxidation products. It is probably one of the most useful DIY oil analysis tests you can perform, and it’s drop dead simple.

While your engine (and the oil) is WARM (not HOT), allow a drop of oil to fall from your dipstick onto a heavy, white, NON-glossy business card. Lay the paper or business card flat, but so that all but the very edges of the paper is suspended. As a possible example, if you’re using stiff card stock or a stiff business card (which you really should be) simply set the card across the top of a cup or mug of some sort.

You want to wait for the paper or card to absorb the oil drop completely which might take awhile. The list of characteristics below should help you evaluate the condition of your oil based on the DRY oil spot.

  • If your oil is still good for continued use, the dry oil spot will be uniform in color without any especially dark areas or rings. There may be a slightly yellow outer ring.
  • If your dispersant additives are failing, you’ll likely see a very dense and quite dark area, normally within the center of the circle. Consider changing your oil soon, especially if any other issues come up in the course of “testing”.
  • Glycol (antifreeze) in your oil? Expect to see a very black and somewhat “pasty” zone within the oil spot. Change your oil very soon.
  • If the circle is really dark throughout and has a very distinct outer ring, your oil is severely oxidized and needs to be changed immediately.
  • If the center of the circle is quite dark and there are outer rings you may likely have fuel in your oil. This does not necessarily mean that you need to change your oil since it is common to have fuel in your oil, but it could if the level is too high. Only a professional analysis will tell you how high those levels are.


Source by Michael Kaufman

How to Pray and Receive a New Car – Within 4 Weeks!


Last month, one of my readers needed a new
car. He asked the LORD for it. And the Lord
answered and showed him this beautiful,
new SUV.

Only problem was: he had no money to
buy it.

He asked me if I had prayer points to
release the car.

I gave him my closely guarded recipe
(One that I used personally to attract
my new car and my new house).

Here it is:

1. Pray the prayer of a DOER according
to Phil.4: 13 (A friend just christened it,
"The 6 little prayers that move mountains")

2. Say to the Holy Spirit

– I really desire this car

– But the money is not yet in my

bank account

– How can I create value for OTHERS so

that I'll be compensated and I can

buy this car?

3. Then the Holy Spirit will

– Lead you to go out

– Create value

– Trade that value for money

– Trade that money for the car

Rapid Result

– He was able to create a useful product

– Sell it and get the money to buy the


Everyone has benefited – he's got his dream
car; others are enjoying the product he
It was created by; and the amount of value in the
world has grown for everyone – all within
4 weeks!

In A Nutshell

I have just uncovered to you the
"Secrets" of what is called the
"Prayer of the Doer."

This is a prayer so powerful, it has
been kept under lock and key by veteran
prayer warriors through the ages.

Among the insiders, it is discussed only
in "hushed" tones.

* It is a mysterious prayer that's been
known to turn paupers into millionaires
almost overnight.

* Those who've been tutored on how to apply
it well have been reported to have started
businesses almost out of nothing and grown
them beyond their wildest dreams … in very
short order.

Please go through this little piece again carefully
and let the Holy Spirit speak to your

This is how God wants his children
to create value in our world.

Apply these simple steps diligently and you'll
soon find yourself swimming in the ocean
of abundance.

You can find more information on this
and more in the latest version of
my popular ebook, "Prayer Cookbook for
Busy People. "Plus, the prayer points
and WHEN to pray them.

Here Tweet Get: Http://

Be blessed!


Source by Elisha Goodman

Are Solar Powered Cars a Realistic Option?


Solar powered cars may be the wave of the future. Or not.

True solar powered cars are actually electric vehicles powered by solar panels. The panels produce electricity by converting the sun’s rays into energy stored in batteries. These batteries then power the vehicle.

The problem is that makers of solar-powered cars haven’t figured out how to solve some very big problems…problems that keep true solar cars from being commercially viable.

In order to harness the energy of the sun effectively, solar-powered cars have had to be extremely lightweight plus they have to be designed so as to be as close to aerodynamically perfect as possible…and neither of these limitations makes for a good road vehicle. After all, don’t you want a car that can carry at least 5 people and go 70 mph on the highway? And how about air conditioning?

If that’s what you want from a vehicle, you don’t want a solar-powered car…not yet. In the first place true solar-powered cars can currently carry no more than 2 people. Now, that might be great if what you want is a sports car. But, if you want a sports car, you probably want it to go more than a top speed of 60 miles per hour.

Granted, ongoing work on solar cells will allow them to become much, much smaller and the cars they are used on to become more “user-friendly”.

But, in the meantime, just because true solar powered cars might still be the stuff of dreams, solar powered hybrid vehicles could actually turn out to be pretty practical.

Indeed, systems that use solar energy to charge a hybrid vehicle’s battery pack (along with a supplemental solar battery system) actually allow for hybrid cars to operate for extended periods in the electric (rather than gas) mode before needing to be charged. The use of such a solar power charging system could increase fuel economy by at least 25%.

By reducing dependence on recharging the hybrid’s battery by running it on solar power, rather than gasoline power, the use of solar energy makes hybrid vehicles even more “green” than they already are.

Take Care,

Steve Longoria


Source by Steven H. Longoria

Bearings in Everyday Items


The mere mention of bearings may put a great many into a panic state, convinced they know nothing of this high-tech, mechanical device that is instrumental in the functioning of many pieces of equipment and machinery.

These same people may also be surprised to learn that while bearings do play a pivotal role in the functioning of large pieces of equipment that they are relatively simply designed. They are also found in a great deal of ordinary everyday items.

Bearings are not nearly the scary creatures many believe them. They actually serve very useful functions in everyday life as they are essential parts in a great many thing that’s used daily with very little thought being given to the mechanics of the item.

Bearings also boast a strength that greatly surpasses most anything like them in the industry today, making them a vital necessity in a great deal of machines and devices.

Bearings come in a variety of types for a range of uses. For example, many automobiles have wheel bearings, which nearly everyone is familiar with. However they also have a great deal of other types of bearings that are vital in the smooth operation of the vehicle. From the transmission, steering and even the air conditioning a vehicle relies on bearings for a great deal of its operations.

There are also a great deal of household items that also contain bearings. Items such as blenders, ceiling fans and skateboards all use different types of bearings to make sure they run smoothly and the proper bearing used for the type of operation they are responsible for.

Other items in the home, such as bar stools and drawer slides also use a bearing type mechanism to run as that’s intended. These bearing may not seem as advanced as those used in a car but they are bearings, the same. Any type of household item that features a pivotal point or rotates most likely has some sort of bearing.

Toys are another item that could not get the full use from if it were not for bearings. Children thoroughly enjoy toys with moving parts as the toy version of an item often mimics the live version.

Toy trains, trucks and almost anything with a mechanically moving part as operated with the use of a bearing. These bearing need very little in the way of upkeep to appeal to the use of them in items typically used by children.

Electronics also have a use for bearings. DVD players, CD players and computers, basically anything that spins a disk, uses a bearing to rotate the disk.

Household appliances such as the washer and dryer, air conditioner and even fans are all driven by bearing that keep them operating smoothly as they carry out their daily jobs and tasks.

Nearly anything that has moving parts has some type of bearing in it. The sheer number of bearing that a person could meet in their daily life is a true testament to the importance they plays operation of a number of items or devices.

They are critical for nearly every company or business that relies on anything from a computer to heavy equipment to carry out their business practices.

Many do not even give a second thought as the how bearings affect their lives. From the cars that are driven to the seats being sat at and now even vital household chores all rely on the power of a bearing.

Available in a wide variety from wheel bearings to roller bearings of cylinder bearings all types get used for a variety of applications. These bearings are vital as they carry out some of the most necessary functions of the equipment or devices. Without them the world would certainly be a different place.


Source by Sam Iskander

Understanding the Different Types of Wheel Covers


With their round shapes and threaded fasteners, wheel covers are easily distinguishable from other types of vehicle accessories. They are also called hubcaps and are often used to cover the central part of the wheels. They prevent dust and other harmful elements from getting into the wheels and eating away their essential parts. Hubcaps, especially those with simple or intricate designs, are also used to enhance the overall look and style of a vehicle. Because of these functions, many vehicle owners are already using hubcaps.

The growing demand for hubcaps has led to the establishment of various hubcap stores. These days, there is a huge market for hubcaps, making it easier for you to choose the best and most appropriate one for your vehicle. If you go online, it’s not surprising to find that there are hundreds of online hubcap providers. They offer different styles and designs and different kinds of hubcaps for different make and models of cars. You can also find stores that offer factory originals and custom hubcaps as well as used and new hubcaps.

Among the widely-used and most popular types of wheel covers are the OEMs. Purchasing OEM hubcaps means you can save a lot of money, as these are offered at prices a whole lot cheaper than the commercial ones. Also, OEM hubcaps, despite being offered at cheaper prices, are of top-quality.

If you are on a tight budget, you can also choose to purchase used hubcaps. If you are able to find a good store to purchase used hubcaps from, then you are assured hubcaps that are of perfect quality and are offered at the best price. One way to distinguish poor quality from top-quality used hubcaps is to check for dents, cracks, and blemishes.

Hubcaps can also differ according to the manner in which they are placed on the wheels. The first type is called the bolt-on hubcaps, which are manufactured with threaded fasteners to hold the cover in place. The other type is called clip-on hubcaps and is manufactured with spring clips, which can either be made of metal or plastic. These spring clips are the ones that keep the wheel cover in place.

Because wheel covers are also used to improve the overall look and style of a vehicle, they are also available in a huge variety of styles and designs. Choose from antique and classic hubcaps to the more stylish moon hubcaps. Moon hubcaps are the more popular hubcaps when it comes to designs. They are available in two kinds: full moon to cover the wheel’s inner part; and baby moon to cover a lot smaller portion of the wheel. Baby moon hubcaps are best known for providing a slick appearance to a vehicle.

You also have the option to choose as to what type of materials you want your hubcaps to be made of. If you want more flexible hubcaps, there are those that are made of high-grade plastics. Meanwhile, if you are after the style and designs, the chrome-plated hubcaps are popular options. And if you are after the durability of the hubcaps, aluminum and steel are good choices.

With the huge market for hubcaps available today, it’s really impossible for you not to find good wheel covers for your vehicles. While you may find the number of online stores overwhelming, know that the secret to finding the best quality and most appropriate wheel cover to use for your vehicles is to ensure you are purchasing from a reputable hubcap provider.


Source by Hunter C Zimmerman