How to Deal With a Wet Basement

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Every day, we find ourselves in situations where we say “oh if I could only have done that differently”. Well this could be your opportunity! .When you start to research a basement problem, you will find many companies claiming to offer the latest and greatest in basement waterproofing or claiming to have all the answers and the best systems. Often, they will throw every slick line at you that they can think of to convince you they’re the best! However upon closer inspection, once you get to the heart of the matter, you will find that they use the same out-of-date damproofing methods and interior drain systems everyone else does. What’s worse they employ slick sales techniques that you would find on any used car lot! It’s all a bunch of double-speak, flat out lies, and misdirection, which is designed to con even an Eskimo into buying ice cubes!

Now I know at this point that you are going to ask me how it is that you can trust me, well the reason is simple I am not trying to sell you anything!.  I promise, if you listen to all that I have to say, and finish reading this letter,  you will end up with more knowledge than you had before, and you will be ready for those “slick” salesmen that will come in the future! I want you to be better informed, better prepared, and better equipped than you are right now; and I also want to let you in on a few TRADE SECRETS that other companies don’t want you to know. Before we go into all of the systems, I’d like to introduce myself, and a little bit about my background that makes me uniquely qualified to help you understand how to solve your basement water or your mold problem!

I started building basements over twenty years ago when I was still in high school. I got a job working for what has become the single largest basement company in Ohio. I worked on both the footer and the wall crew so I became well versed early on, in all phases of new home foundation construction and basement waterproofing. Shortly after high school I was hired by a company that performed environmental services, specifically we removed asbestos from schools and public buildings (this was in the mid eighties when the government passed the legislation to require the asbestos be removed from all government building). I learned all there was to know about negative air flow containments air scrubbers manometers and the basics of ENVIRONMENTAL CLEAN UP. I finally quit when I had saved enough money for college. I swore I would never wear a tyvec suit or a respirator again (those are the HOT non-breathable suits that we wear in mold and asbestos clean ups, its funny the way Murphy will get you when you swear not to do something). During these years I began actively pursuing one of my many hobbies and I became an amateur mycologist. I built a lab in my basement… and built myself a glove box and began to perform sterile culture techniques for the growing of all sorts of fungi and mold and mushrooms. I used Petri dishes Autoclaves and learned many of the processes used at modern laboratories today. I did spore streaking and culture analysis. I believe I gave myself the equivalent of an associates degree in mycology. When I got to college I needed a job, and I found one working for the third largest basement waterproofing company in Ohio. I was hired to service their basement waterproofing jobs that were already installed but STILL LEAKED.

I quickly began to learn that there was something drastically WRONG with virtually EVERY single basement waterproofing company in Ohio…

They all install systems with fatal flaws. They have SERVICE DEPARTMENTS to handle the “problem” jobs. I became adept at solving these problem basements “issues”. I then began waterproofing basements on my own. I realized from the very beginning that if I didn’t want to service my basement customers and charge every year for their warranty I wood have to “fix” the systems themselves used to treat basements. I read every single book there was available on the subject. I did a TONS of experimentation in those first couple of years and began to “fix” each and every one of the problems that I had discovered associated with all the various available waterproofing systems.

Over the years I have continued to refine and improve the systems so they remain “CUTTING EDGE” . About ten years ago I began to study “black mold ” and the various health effects related to it.  We actually developed the first completely NON-TOXIC (to humans) approach to treating mold problems.

The first thing that you have to understand is that there are ONLY three basic solutions to ANY basements water leakage problems.

Most companies install only one of the three systems but will claim to offer all three, in reality it isn’t true. Most companies offer one basic system either the inside system or the outside system.

The systems: Most companies rely on an interior drain system and a sump pump to control the water. They may call it something different, but a pump placed under the floor is a sump pump, and drains placed under the floor are interior drains. This is just flat out not a good idea, unless it is the only option. I recommend that you do not rely on electricity in any situation where it can be avoided. Some companies in order to confuse the customer and gain a competitive advantage claim that only by combining the interior system with something else, usually some sort of outside work (often digging down only 12 inches) is it possible to truly solve a problem (like the Big Chuck and Little John guys). The outside work generally benefits the customer very little, and allows the company to DRIVE UP THEIR PRICE and appear different from the rest of the inside system competition. Some companies, in order to eliminate the competition, actually price different methods as if they do them (even though they don’t). They will price exterior waterproofing ridiculously high, the interior drain method extremely low, and their system somewhere in the middle. If you ask for one of the two methods they don’t offer, you will be told they won’t install that for you because it just won’t work for you. Other inside system companies have come up with different interior methods, on top the footer or above the floor products. Although marketed extremely well, these systems fail in comparison to traditional under slab or exterior drainage systems. The reason is simple they completely fail to drain water under the slab either from the water table or from the exterior of the wall.

In order to help you wade through this mess, below, you will find a brief description of the basic systems offered nationally and what is WRONG with them.

The first solution is to actually excavate the foundation, meaning the foundation is dug up; this is generally referred to as waterproofing ( but I can assure you that in most contractors’ cases, IT ISN’T). Most of the guys that do this are small 1-4 men outfits. They learned to do what they do from someone who learned it from someone etc. What these “so-called waterproofers” do is actually to re-apply the EXACT SAME SEALANTS and utilize the exact same techniques that already FAILED in the first place! This usually means re-parging the wall and smearing some tar on it like a monkey!

Have you ever known anyone that had an asphalt driveway? How often did they Have-To Re- Seal it?

I can tell you I have. When I was a kid growing up two of my neighbors had an ongoing debate about their driveways. The first swore you needed to seal it every single year, and he did. The second one swore every two years was enough. I can still hear them arguing now in my mind’s eye… LOL. The sad truth is that according to the US Bureau of Standards asphalt sealants begin to break down in only 18 months, YIKES! You see the sad truth is; they were both right! And these so called waterproofers charge an average of ten to fifteen grand just to dig up the basement and seal it again using what FAILED already.

…You See Tar Has Never Been Rated as Waterproof

Did you know that in the building codes there are actually two separate definitions for damp-proofing (tar) and waterproofing. Damp proofing by definition means “something that helps to slow the penetration of water into the substrate”. HHMMM “helps to slow” sounds quite different than the definition of waterproofing “something that prevents the penetration of water” and further must pass a bending test where the membrane must be able to be bent around a cylinder.

Water proof sealants are almost all exclusively used and installed COMMERCIALLY…(that’s because they are more expensive).

The extra costs are what stop the average contractor from offering you , the homeowner, a product that is effective and will last and “stand the test of time”. We have developed and recommend if you plan to re-seal your basement; that you use a  MULTI-STEP EXTERIOR WATERPROOFING SYSTEM which, uses a cement-based fiber re-enforced wall resurfacing system and NO LESS than two waterproof rated sealants. This is by no means the cheapest of methods, however, and it may or may not be the BEST system to put into place. Which system you should use depends entirely on the specific nature of YOUR problem. There are NO miracle systems than can solve ALL basement problems. The thing I can guarantee is if you use a multistep outside waterproof system it will actively drain water away from the foundation, and the water leak will be a thing of the past, not only that, but the sealants will outlast the wood on your house GUARANTEED!

The second solution is an Interior solution which I call the sub-floor water re-directional system. This involves trenching around the interior of the basement wall and installing a drainage system around the perimeter of the inside of the basement. Many companies never explain that the system only works by completely draining the walls and any water under the slab during periods of extended rain or no melt when the water table rises. This system will allow water to be “drained” from the inside of the walls by drilling weep holes into every core of every single block then drained under the floor into a drain pipe and generally to a sump pump to then be pumped out. Other companies will often “explain” that the pipe under the floor takes all the ground water and the outside trench will take away surface water. This outside trench is shallow and worthless. They never even MENTION the drainage holes drilled into the core face of the bottom row of block in the basement, under the level of the floor slab. And folks, this is THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. It is also the step most often “screwed up” by other contractors. You see there are two variables that must be dealt with in ensuring the effectiveness of the “weep holes”. First is that when the mason was laying the blocks different masons “slough off” different amounts of mortar into the bottom course which affects the level of the “bottom” inside the blocks themselves. This means it is important to make sure that you are above the mortar bed and yet remain in the lowest part of the block.

Secondly it is ESSENTIAL to make sure that your men are educated as to the history of the development of concrete blocks, as well as all of the different core patterns that have been incorporated into them over time. You see this work is done by YOUNG men. In their short lifetime concrete blocks have only been made with Two cores. If they drill into the block where they imagine the core is today, in one of the many variations in block design that have occurred over the years, it is entirely possible , no probable that they are drilling into the web rather than the core or pocket of the block. Only by drilling into every single core of every single block does it become possible to drain the entire wall and make the system work effectively. It is entirely possible to install the drain tiles perfectly and… still leave ALL of the water dammed up inside the walls, wasting all that money and still leaving the problem UNSOLVED. In fact many times I get called after the homeowners have spent thousands of dollars to “waterproof ” their basement and even THOUSANDS MOREto turn it into finished space. Only to find mold growing on newly installed drywall. This happened to one of my customers named Bonnie Rembowski. She had hired a big local company and they installed an inside system. She then hired a contractor to remodel her basement. They hung new dry wall and framed new walls. She had new carpeting installed and everything seemed perfect until… Bonnie kept getting sick.

She was treated for recurring bronchitis many times over a period of about six months. Finally one day Bonnie’s doctor suggested to her that she have her house checked for mold. Bonnie called me. I began inspecting the basement and I immediately began to notice mold growing along the bottom several feet on all the newly dry-walled walls that had just been “waterproofed”. I began inspecting the inside system and I discovered that even though a permit was pulled … Even though the drainage pipes were inspected and installed properly… even though there was no puddling or physical seepage the system was NOT WORKING . The reason why became apparent after we broke open the floor and inspected the weep holes- JUST AS I SUSPECTED. The walls were not draining do to improper weep hole placement. Poor Bonnie.

WE HAD TO COMPLETELY GUT THE BRAND NEW BASEMENT …and disinfect everything to stop the mold and help her STOP GETTING SICK. She contacted the waterproofing company who did the job WRONG. They told her there was nothing they could do under the warranty since technically the basement hadn’t leaked (it was just DONE WRONG in the first place). Poor Bonnie then had to hire us to fix the basement problem TOO! Unfortunately this is not the first time this has happened to me and sadly I’m afraid it WON’T be the last.

This inside system however is ideal for situations where water is coming up from under the slab itself; in fact it is the only solution for under-slab water issues. No matter which contractor you call the same basic system is used. There are however many problems with this system as is employed by  “competition” nationwide. The GOOD NEWS however is that we have modified the system to eliminate all of the potential problems and WE EDUCATE OUR WORKERS as to the history of concrete blocks. This education guarantees that this kind of a problem won’t happen to you. We also INSIST on installing CLEAN OUTS which are access points set in the floor. These clean outs means that down the road you can maintain your system and “flush it out” every few years with a garden hose. It also means, heaven forbid, you have a problem with the drainage pipes clogging, that you WONT have to JACKHAMMER your floor you can have them snaked or jetted clean! Contrary to what you might have been told PROPERLY INSTALLED inside drainage systems can be the BEST solution when figuring all factors especially the Return On Investment. A PROPERLY INSTALLED inside system is also the preferred method for keeping concrete block walls from disintegrating, due to the fact that it allows for water drainage and keeps soil acid buildup to a minimum.

The last two systems are what we call “beaver” or dam systems that are installed either on top of the floor or just under the floor but on top of the footer that channels water from the walls to either a sump pump or to a floor drain. These systems are marketed to installers usually under the Basement Systems(TM) , Beaver Technology and Squid gee Dri labels, and in my opinion, offer the least protection to your basement.

The Baseboard systems that sit on top of the slab or on top of the footer have several basic flaws.

FLAW ONE: the slab is poured several inches up the bottom block, this means that when the installer drills the weep holes above the floor level the system allows water to keep sitting in the block up several inches which makes humidity which leads to mold and keeps disintegrating the bottom block from the inside out. The bottom block hold the entire weight of the entire house! The LAST thing that you want is that block to crumble -DISASTER!

FLAW TWO: when the cement finisher was troweling your cement floor X number of years ago the last thing on his mind was sloping the perimeter around the basement so 50 years later some guy could glue a gutter around the edge of the basement! What that means is since the gutter is basically level it allows for pooling along the bottom of the walls and is usually just glued into place without any type of pitch added. When the water lays in it in the low sections over time it will DISINTEGRATE or break down the bond between the floor slab and the wall. Eventually LEAKING again into the living space.

FLAW THREE: This system is still prone to the same weep hole placement errors as described above due to variations in the number of cores used in blocks over time.

FLAW FOUR: This system does nothing to drain water from underneath the slab or hydrostatic water from the exterior forced under the footing- it only partially drains the walls which is not good enough to stop MOLD from developing. The second hybrid system is the system offered by distributors of the Basement Systems(TM) called Water Guard this system is installed by breaking out approximately 6 inches of the basement perimeter concrete but digging no trench alongside the footing. The system has a flat drainage pipe that sits absolutely level on the TOP of the footing. The level drain tile will always allow water to sit in it and can contribute to the overall humidity in the room, creating the conditions that let MOLD thrive. This means that the lowest part of the pipe is the TOP of the footer completely failing to drain or eliminate ANY under-slab water whether from the water table or from the exterior of the wall being forced under the slab. In other words it only drains the wall and NOTHING ELSE! This system is used because it drastically limits the amount of labor used by the contractor saving him tons of money! In fact in many cases these contractors make more from this system than any other which is the reason so many of them will offer you a basically WORTHLESS system! It has been proven that the most effective inside de-watering system is one that is installed below the floor slab, and has been given an artificial pitch. It is just as important that when using one of these true under slab systems to correct the items commonly mistaken in the industry that are mentioned above, it is best to have a thorough knowledge of all of the systems at ones disposal!!!

Good luck!

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Source by Charles Boday

Top 5 Tips For Car Travel With Your Boston Terrier

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One of the challenges of dog-ownership is traveling with your doggy companion. There are issues when traveling with any breed, but Boston Terriers come with their own set of special needs that need to be addressed when taking long road trips. There are many methods, many tools, methods and techniques used to manage traveling by car with your boston terrier. Some work better than others. Now how is it possible to obtain the best results?

Understanding and preparation is certainly the key. In the same way, the real key to getting good results with traveling with your boston terrier is much more know-how about what works and being properly prepared before you travel.

Here are 5 tips for smooth car travel with your Boston Terrier:

1. Take your Boston on a long walk before getting in the car.Just why is this important? Boston Terriers are energetic by nature, and can get bored and moody when they have to be still for too long. This is compounded if they haven’t had a chance for a proper “restroom” break (which you know means several, if you already own a Boston). Make sure you friend has time to run around and do his or her business right before a long car trip.. And exactly what comes about when you follow this advice? You can be sure your Boston will be contented sleeping for a long portion of the trip, and will be comfortable until your first scheduled rest stop..

2. Bring a dish full of ice instead of a bowl of water. Water has a tendency to spill during a car ride, but it’s absolutely necessary that your Boston have access to fresh cool drinking water at all times, particularly if you’re traveling during the summer months. The ice actually helps because Boston Terriers are Brachycephalic (meaning they have a short snout) and are very susceptible to overheating. The cold water will help your pet regulate their body temperature on a hot day.

3. Place shades in the car windows. Once again, the main reason behind this is the Boston Terrier’s intolerance to heat. While you may notice your friend gravitates to sunbeams on the living room floor, it’s very important that they have somewhere shady to lay down.. It is also a good idea because Boston’s have very fine coats and are at risk of serious sunburn if exposed to direct sun for too long.

4. Have a comfy car bed. And why is this a good idea? Car seats are shaped for comfort of the the human buttocks, not for the comfort of our canine friends. With seatbelts sticking out and stitching in strange places they can be very uncomfortable for your dog on a long journey.. Any other reason? Depending on the color of your car interior, the seats (and seatbelts) can get very hot – hot enough to burn your Boston. Having a special bed for your doggy eliminates this risk.

5. Take breaks every 2 – 3 hours. And this will be important because of what? Just like people, dogs need to take a rest break every so often. On a long drive your Boston can become just as uncomfortable and restless as you can. What other significant reasons are there? It’s not healthy or comfortable for your dog to “hold it” for long periods of time. If you notice your dog is drinking a lot of the ice water you have provided you may need to stop more often. A good indicator? If you need to go, they probably do too.

One final word of advice: Never leave your Boston Terrier in the car on a warm or sunny day. Even on a cool day, the temperature inside a car can rise 30 degrees in less than 15 minutes, which can have deadly consequences for your traveling pet.

When you follow these 5 tips carefully you should expect to have a happy, comfortable adventure when road-tripping with your boston terrier.

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Source by Maggie Plitz

Number Plates for Bentleys

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As a rule, most of the valuable and prestigious number plates seen on the road today will appear on expensive and prestigious cars. This is true of most Bentley and Rolls Royce cars. Most of the exclusive Bentley type registrations are in fact on Bentley cars rather than on cars who are owned by Mr Bentley, and as such, can be quite expensive.

Over the last few years, with the introduction of the Bentley Continental GT, more car registration numbers for Bentleys than any other prestigious car maker have been sold.This is quite an incredible fact when you consider that these cars cost, on average, five times as much as your average car. Interestingly, Rolls Royce owners are less likely to buy private number plates, which is unusual, although again some of the most valuable plates do in fact appear on Rolls Royce cars.

When you see a Bentley motor car, as a rule most of them will have cherished number plates. Cherished number plates for Bentleys are popular because provided that a Bentley is looked after, it should last a lifetime. So a private registration is a great way to disguise a 4 or 5 year old Bentley so that it looks like a new model. In fact over 70% of all Bentley cars ever built are still on the road. This is because the attention to detail is so intense. It takes 150 hours to hand-build a Continental GT and even longer for a 4 door Bentley Arnarge. So its easy to see why people buy number plates for these cars.

There are a few quite specific number plates for Bentleys recently advertised for sale. They are BEN 71Y and BE11 TLY. Both these plates look like the word Bentley and would look fantastic on the back of a “GT” or a “Flying Spur” model. Another great registration number is ARN 46E which would suit a Bentley Arnarge model. The only drawback with these plates are the prices and age restrictions, as they are not dateless, or cherished, as they are sometimes referred to. This means t hat they cannot be used on vehicles older than the plate depicts. So no good for the vintage models.

The registration number 1 WO is probably one of the most famous Personalised Number Plates. It is used on all the promotional advertising for the car maker and is used in memory of Mr W.O.Bentley, the founder and creator of the luxury car brand, however it is not known whether the plate is really owned by the car maker or just used with the permission of the real owner.

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Source by Martyn J Davies

Negotiation Skills — The Salami Technique

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Some negotiators just love to play tactical games. In this article we will look at one their favourite negotiation tactics – the Salami technique – and think about how to rebuff it.

Salami sausages are big things (often spicy) that are eaten a slice at a time. They would be indigestible if taken in a single large piece. This aspect has led negotiators to use the name for a negotiation technique that tries to do just that: to win concessions in small doses (slices) when the other party would probably reject them if they were put on the table all at once. The technique is often used against a party that is mainly concerned with damage limitation.

Consider a tough union negotiating with management. Management would really just like to keep the status quo (damage limitation) but the union negotiators would like a whole host of goodies to take back for their members. These could include a pay rise, more holidays, flexible working hours, private health membership, better pension arrangements, improved canteen, increased allowances and so on. It is not difficult for the union to make a case for each of these and they can probably add to the list.

If the union negotiators use the salami tactic they will present just one of their demands for discussion and push hard to reach agreement. Let’s say they focus on a 6% pay rise and after a long discussion and some haggling they agree on 4%. Deal done, except there is more to come. That’s just the first slice of the salami and there is a whole sausage in the cupboard.

The next slice might be the holiday arrangements. The current 23 days is from a bygone age. ‘Other employers’ have agreed to 25 days plus public holidays. Let’s say they eventually reach agreement at 24 days this year and 25 days next year. Good! The managers might by now be congratulating themselves on their rusty negotiation skills and their damage limitation but the union representatives have been busy polishing their negotiation skills.

‘We would now like to discuss something that is very dear to the hearts of our members, the need for flexible working hours.’ The slicing of the salami sausage continues: private health, pension, canteen, allowances, and so on. By the end of the negotiations, when the management team add it all up they are staggered at what they have conceded, slice by slice. None of the individual items seemed all that great at the time but – add them all together and the cumulative effect is astonishing.

What went wrong?

The management negotiators were beguiled by one of the standard tactics used by skilled negotiators. Of course, presented like this, the salami technique looks so obvious that you might think that no management team could be so stupid as to be caught by it. However, just as a simple magic trick can seem incredible when performed by a skilled magician, so even simple negotiation skills like the salami technique can produce amazing results when used by skilled and experienced negotiators.

The salami is not restricted to management-union negotiations. Any negotiator who has a list of things on which they want to gain agreement can use it. Try it when you next buy a car. Are you buying just one item, the car? Or are you gaining agreement on several things: buying the car, filling the petrol tank, replacing worn tyres if it’s a used car, a free service next year, alloy wheels… and whatever else you can think of. Will they lose the sale over a tank of petrol or one new tyre?

So, what do you do if you are on the receiving end and the other party tries to salami you?

Of course, your first line of defence is to recognise what they are doing and your second is to put a stop to it. You will need to be assertive about this but the response is quite straightforward. The salami tactic works because the person being sliced does not recognise what is happening. Once you do, you can fight it.

How? Simply refuse agreement on any one slice until you have everything out on the table. ‘Is there anything else you want to discuss as part of these negotiations?’ Do not discuss details until you have formally agreed that everything is out in the open. Then put forward a proposal on a collective agreement — bundle the lot together.

The discussion can now begin in earnest and you can use your negotiation skills. You might trade one slice of salami off against another by offering some flexibility on, say, item one provided that they drop, say, items two and three. Continue like that until you are happy with the deal, then close.

Good luck! And watch out for that spicy sausage!

Author: Tony Atherton

© Tony Atherton 2005)

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Source by Tony Atherton

Car Title Loans For When Your Car Breaks Down

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We all know how it feels, when your car just does not sound right and you know you need to bring it into the shop, but you fear what the mechanic will say. If only you had the money, you would buy a new car. If only you had the money, to fix your car, or get that new transmission the mechanic said you needed…

These days, most people are opting to fix their cars instead of buying new ones, because it’s less expensive and just makes sense in this economic environment. You would think since you own this car, fixing it is definitely cheaper than buying a new one, but auto repairs can be very expensive. And if you have bad credit, where are you going to get the money to cover all of the mechanic’s bills?

Here’s an idea you may have over looked – car title loans. With title loans, you can apply easily and all you need to do is have a clear title on your vehicle. That way you can use the equity you have in your car as collateral to secure the loan. If you can apply online, the lender will not know if the car is running or not.

Car title loans are often used to help people pay for emergency repairs to vehicles. Before you apply for the loan, get an estimate on the repairs so you know just how much you need to cover all the costs. Then fill out the application online. It’s quick and easy and you shouldn’t take long to find out if you’re approved.

The lender will run a credit check, but you can get approved whether you have good credit or not. The loan amount will be for a percentage of the value of the car. But remember if you fail to make payments, the lender can repossess the vehicle.

This type of loan is a secured loan so you won’t be subjected to those insanely high rates of the unsecured variety. Once your car is fixed, you get to keep the car while you pay off the loan. So, you don’t have to rely on others for transportation. Because your car is so important for getting to jobs or interviews, you’ve got to keep it in good working condition. Just because you have to drive an old car doesn’t mean it has to look it.

Get enough cash from car title loans to not only fix what’s broken, but give it a shiny new paint job as well. Change the color, give it some character. It’ll be like having a new car without the new car payment. Depending on how much you borrowed, you can have it paid for in two years or less.

Car title loans are great for those emergency situations when you need fast cash. When you’re car goes kaput, don’t give up on it. Apply for car title loans, get it fixed and get back on the fast track in no time. You can’t afford not to.

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Source by Andrew Stratton

What is Inside of a Limousine?

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More and more different car models are used to build a limousine. In different countries you can find their locally built cars. Some of these vehicles look exotic , and all of them are stretched. Yes they are really stretched (at least more than twice). Not every turn at every road can this car overcome at first.

So, you probably already have questions. Then we have the answers. How do the passengers feel? What does the driver feels when driving around in this car? What do the owners of these vehicles feel?

We have just learned about this. And have not been able to hide this from you. Bucket of black caviar, golden toilet, a suitcase of dollars. Dimensionless limousines in the Association will look at a number of rare harmony. “Honey, I will send a limousine for you” does not it sound great?

However, a limo can boast its own very few people. it is not even a high price and usefulness of these vehicles. Which vehicle can be called a limo? Extended sedan – the limousine, car with a partition between driver and passengers again a limousine.

Even ordinary six windows sedan – also sometimes called the limousine! In fact, according to generally accepted classification, the limo should be understood as a passenger vehicle with four or six doors with a bulkhead to the front seat row.

Well, turns out, Chevrolet Suburban, which is depicted in our photos in various poses – not a limousine? Formally No. Nevertheless, any passerby noticed this car in the street will comment about the “limo”! Then the game becomes a concept – above a word “stretch”. Make any car “stretch” – and you will get people’s “limo.”

The most expensive limousines, are usually made of high-class European automobile manufacturers themselves. A typical example – Mercedes-Benz S600 Pullman. Such vehicles do not affect the appearance of the imagination, but quite capable stun with the price. And in the armored version of the price just kills to death: half a million dollars is not the limit. By the way, these cars give a ride to presidents of many countries. Other kinds of limousines are often used as a taxi or corporate purposes is based on not the most expensive cars and can have up to six doors. It is easy to meet these cars on the street now days, In Seattle, such cars sometimes occur: these may be a Chrysler, Lincoln, or a Mercedes-Benz.

And more… Stretch, super stretch, ultra stretch, ultra super stretch – the creators of these fantasy vehicles inexhaustible. Sometimes it seems that the limousine is not to perform any task, but only as a means of expression. 10 seats, 20 seats, 30 seats, TV, DVD-players, bar, restaurant, pool, a heliport, a golf course, Aquarium of the current model of the aircraft carrier in full size.Even if you do not think of what would have such a wish, in the limo it will be.

Of course, five axle stretch with a swimming pool instead of luggage – that’s very exotic, demonstration of the company, a kind of Limo-concept. But the four wheels drive SUV in length more than fifteen meters, able to contain a football team, along with spare bench players – it is as you see the reality. Anyone can touch this limousine! And if you want or need, you can become king for a day – from $300 per hour and sometimes even cheaper.

The most Classic limousine, usually based on the Lincoln Town Car. The fundamental point here – the presence of frame: create a stretch of the car with the supporting body – the task much more troublesome and expensive. And it’s simple: the body of serial machines is cut exactly the middle, and between the front and rear doors they need to insert the box with windows – the so-called insertion. The length of insert and defines a class of limousine. Town cars, as a rule, extend to 60-120 in. (1524-3048 mm) and can grow off, and 200 inches, while other times they are longer.

Production of limousines in the United States alone are perplexed about fifty firms. Of those that are well known – Tiffany Coachworks, Dream Coachworks, Crystal Enterprises and others. Together, they create wonderful things. For example, in the model number of a Dream six axle Lincoln Navigator, and Crystal could portray such a wonderful creature, a Hummer H2 with eight doors!

In principle, a standard fillings, which have American cars is enough to stretch: the engine and transmission remain intact. But suspension and braking systems can be enhanced – all the same total weight of the car becomes much heavier. Again, it is necessary to refine the system exhaust, causing it to conform with the new length of the vehicle.

Limousine is considered complete when performing even some procedures. Have you guessed? Right: in the list of electrical equipment is an additional generator and battery, a heating and air conditioning equipment is more productive – as required by a huge passenger compartment.

The interior space and decor – this is what built limousines. All – for the good of man! And no one – but for the whole company! Our GMC is designed for 14 persons, in full possession of which mirrored bar with illumination. At the bar – with crystal decanters, wine glasses for the champagne bucket. Immediately – aquarium with artificial fish: water bubbles and changing colors, animals rollicking and things that please the eye.

At the mirror ceiling shimmers stars – multicolored LEDs depict romantic sky. In the case of enclosures, located in the ends of the cabin, mounted LCD TVs, and two displays located at side racks. The signal to them is either a DVD-player, or VCR – these devices are located at the floor under the seats. Over the most VIP seats located control panel for all devices and next to it the remote control – head unit hi-fi audio system with two 12-inch Subwoofer.

You can arrange a party right in the car, highlighting the intimate semidarkness stroboscope flashes and filled the cabin space of artificial smoke and laser beams. And you can turn off all of the above at once, or to ask about the driver – the same panel is in the cabin. In the same cabin, though, there are a few things. For example, a walkie-talkie to communicate with the controller, or police and many other devices which are essential driver.

Is it difficult to drive a limo? According to limo driver’s words, you can get used to everything. Of course, for stretch limos there are a lot of restrictions. Thus, for example, pre-crosses Route: Stretch Limos cannot make a sharp turn the first time. While it is generally we be able to drive everywhere in the city, in some places is not without problems. Surprisingly, the degrees of rotation – is not the most important characteristic of the street.

What is important is how wide the street is! However, for the professional there is a little or no problems with the maneuver. You can see how skillfully drivers at huge track drive back? by the mirror. In this sense, driving a limousine, even easier: do not exist at all desire.

Do limo drivers violate traffic rules? Only when this is due to extreme industrial necessity. The most common violation – it is right to exit into the oncoming traffic or turn in the wrong place. State Patrol, being enchanted by the greatness of the stretch and the highest professionalism, its driver, refer to some trespasses leniently.

All in all. Everybody respects the limousine. In an attempt to turn in the crowded traffic conditions (for a car length more than hundred feet, almost every turn in the city is fraught with well-known complications) stretch limo may block the street and make a big traffic, but few drivers will start convulsively honking at a slow giant. Who knows who or what may be inside of this car. May be people, who are going to a wedding. No reason to spoil their good mood.

But speed is respected everywhere. Even in rush – the company prohibits a driver to exceed a speed of 60 mph.

Actually, there are no any special problems with the operation of a limousine in the city. But there are interesting features. Take, for example, maintenance and repair. Almost every big limo companies have specially trained people who check technical condition of limo.

They also make some repairs. However, it is certainly not omnipotence: does a modern car require the professional service. Can you imagine how to lift a limousine? No, because there are no lifts, which could perch 200 inches of the limousine. In general, the problem is, but it can be solved. Only the savvy needed.

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Source by German Dymovski

Benefits of GPS Tracking for Equipment Rental Businesses

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Instead of investing in heavy machinery that the company may only need a few times in their lifetime, most leaders in the corporate world are opting for rentals.

If you are just getting in the business, say you are a landscaping professional who does not have tonnes of money to put into expensive machinery, you will certainly need to start somewhere. Lawn mowers, gardening tools, safety gear and leaf blowers will certainly set you back a pretty penny, and it’s not like you will use them every day. Therefore, instead of taking a loan, it would be a prudent financial move to get them on rental for the days you will need them.

Equipment rentals vary from small seemingly inconsequential lawn mowers to large and heavy forklifts. Even though these machines may differ in their cost, losing any of them while they are in your care is not an expense your business may have planned for.

How Can You Keep You Rentals Safe?

GPS tracking is one of the most efficient ways of keeping track of your equipment. It has become increasingly popular, with rental companies losing equipment through both fraud and genuine mistakes. When a renter gets equipment for your business, they sign a binding agreement. While you trust their word, it is prudent that you keep an eye on your asset once they leave your premises.

Track Their Movement

In the US, the equipment rental market grew by 8.1% to reach $38.5bilion in 2015 alone. Take for instance a truck. A rental company rented out three of their vehicles, as was their mode of business, to a trusted distributor, with whom they had an agreement on the areas to be covered. The manager of the transport company had them all installed with GPS trackers in one afternoon without alerting the distributor. Over the weekend, the transport manager tracks one of his company’s trucks hundreds of miles away from the agreed perimeter. The company calls the head of transport in the distribution company, only to find that he had no idea of what the fleet drivers do with the trucks after working hours.

The only way to keep track of your vehicles and to tell whether your agreement is being honoured is by installing tracking devices on them. The visibility will give you peace of mind. Besides, you will be getting your asset’s worth, even when the renter uses it outside of the agreed parameters. How’s that, you ask? By showing them the record of their usage, you can prove that they went beyond the set boundaries and they should pay for the extra mileage. Additionally, you can help the police track and recover them if they are stolen.

Locating them in Storage and In Transit

Smaller items have a way of ‘disappearing’ in storage. You can track them easily by installing trackers on them. That way, you will cut your search time by half.

This one may be a bit sensitive, but unfortunately, it happens. Sometimes items get lost in transit. If you have lost one too many farm inputs when being transported to the customer, you may want to install trackers on them to ensure that they get the renter safely. Essentially, you will be tracking your employee’s movements, to make sure that they get to the client as expected, instead of taking detours that could lead to unexpected delays or losses.

Parting Shot

A study conducted on fleet drivers showed that their behaviour improved when they learned they were being tracked. Their delivery efficiency went up by 11% while idle time was cut by 9%. Using GPS tracker systems you will lose fewer or no equipment, and you will sleep better.

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Source by Ekim Sari

Protecting The Car With A Garage Or A Car Cover?

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When winter comes along, many people think that cars now belong indoors. They know that leaving a car outdoors unprotected is not an option. It is a recipe for disaster. Any car that is left parked outside, without any form of protection, is guaranteed to get wrecked in some way or another. The fact remains; a car that is uncovered has a shorter life expectancy.

So the question remain, what form of protection to provide? There is a choice of two forms of protection; a garage, or a car cover. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. They must be weighed up by the individual, to see which is the better of the two for him.

Garages:

The advantage of garages is that when parked in a garage, the car is completely closed off from any form of weather condition, and therefore cannot, in any way, be harmed by them. Garages are also very convenient for the car owner, as he always know where his car is parked, and never has to search for a space. Another advantage of garages is that they can be used by anyone. More or less any car can drive into the garage and be protected.

However, the disadvantages of having a garage largely lie in the money and space involved. Garages are expensive to build as they are not merely three wall and a door. There is more to a garage, and the money mounts up. Aside from this, a lot of people simply do not have the space to build a garage. Even if they did, they would much prefer to use that space for extending the house, rather than building a room to keep a car over night.

In addition, when a car is stored in a garage it is not dust and dirt free. Whilst the garage may be able to protect it from the detriments of nature, and car thieves, the car is still exposed to dust and dirt, and hence will still need constant cleaning.

Car covers:

The main advantage of car covers is the how compact they are. Car covers, when not in use, can be folded up and tucked away,out of sight. They can even be stored in the trunk of the car. This enables the car owner to take it along with him wherever he goes, so that he and his car are always covered. This is something that garages can never have – portability.

Car cover are also inexpensive, and cost effective. Cover covers are a drop in the bucket compared to the expense of a garage, and they also provide excellent coverage and protection. In fact they will even protect the car from dust and dirt, unlike garages. They will be able to save the car owner hundreds of dollars over the years that would have otherwise been used for cleaning, polishing and repairs.

On the other hand, the good car covers only come custom-made. This means that they are designed to fit the one car, perfectly. The cover will fit the car like a glove, maximising the protection, but it means that no other car can use it. Thus, it cannot be shared amongst family and friends, and when a new car is bought, the cover needs to be changed too.

In addition, car covers are not as sturdy as garages. Yes they will be able to protect the car from just about everything, including knocks and scrapes. Covers absorb the impact without leaving a mark on the car itself. However this is on a small scale, and should there be a more fierce collision, the cover will be inept at shielding the car.

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Source by Basya Katz

Car Scratch Remover – What is the Difference Between Rubbing Compound and Polish?

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Car Scratch Remover Discover How To Solve All Of Your Scratch Remover Problems Once And For All.

Have you wondered what the difference between what is referred to a rubbing compound verses a polish? A rubbing compound is a somewhat dated term for a product that contains very aggressive ingredients that if not used correctly can sometime do more damage to your paint than you started out with. This is not a product that professionals in paint refinishing typically use every day.

Professional products with a an aggressive abrasive content are designed for removing heavy 1200 grit scratches fast, usually with a rotary machine and a wool bonnet, something that only the most seasoned professionals know how to use with precision. They also require several more steps with different products to achieve a restored finish.

In modern terms an aggressive product used to renew badly oxidized paint or for what is known in the detail world as a paint correction would be referred to as a cutting compound. It typically is designed for machine application and is serious business. It is just the first step in multiple steps to achieve a restored finish on a paint finish in very poor condition. This type of process is not necessary on most cars where the paint is in good condition and there are only isolated scratches in the clear coat.

In the last 5-10 years car scratch remover technology has come a long way and now there are advanced polishes that are not only gentle on paint but deliver extraordinary results in removing various types of scratches from isolated scratches to swirls sometime called spider swirls. They are so efficient that they can be used by hand or by machine with great results from either with less work than in the good old days. The truly professional advance polishes utilize something called nano technology. Without getting into the nitty gritty, pun intended, they progressively breakdown as they are applied and the action removes the deeper scratches initially and then progressively begins to fine polish the initial work. They are absolutely amazing to use!

The new generation of high end professional polishes intended for car scratch remover is generally only available through professional sources. They tend to be expensive and only sold in large volumes to the trade. On the other hand they are very easy to use and very efficient.

If you are in search of a product to remove clear coat scratches or enhance a touch up paint repair you have done look for a product or system that has professional formulas and accessories designed for consumer use. The system should come with video tutorials and an easy to follow quick start guide.

Most of all any home car scratch remover system should offer great product support and a money back guarantee. Click the link below to get a free report on how to solve all of your car scratch removal problems once and for all.

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Source by Karl B Eberhardt

When and How to Remove 3M Carbon Fiber

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When you first install 3M carbon fiber, you may not think about ever removing it but eventually you may want to try a new pattern or the vinyl may become damaged making it necessary to repair. 3M Di-noc vinyl is guaranteed for ten years when it’s used on areas inside but for vehicles and other items used outside, the guarantee is for five years.

3M carbon fiber has a grooved adhesive design that, when applied properly, helps to remove air bubbles for a professional look but it also reduces the risk of the vinyl lifting and peeling after installation. This design allows the vinyl to cling tightly to the surface area but you can still remove it without a lot of hassles when the need arises.

Removing the carbon fiber is just as important as installing it because you don’t want to cause any damage to the surface area. When the time comes to remove the vinyl, there are certain techniques that can make the process go smoothly without damaging the surface underneath.

How to Remove the 3M Carbon Fiber Vinyl

When removing carbon fiber vinyl you must work carefully to prevent damaging the vehicle or object underneath the vinyl. When working with large areas, it’s easier to cut the vinyl before trying to remove it. This will make the material easier to work with and peel off. Use a sharp razor knife to cut into the vinyl but do not put a lot of pressure on the knife. You only need to crease the vinyl making a shallow cut. If you press too hard, it will go through the vinyl and damage the object underneath.

Using heat to warm the surface of the area will also make it easier to peel off the vinyl. You can do this by using a heat gun or a hair dryer but you don’t want to overheat the area. The idea is to warm up the 3M Di-noc carbon fiber so it will be more flexible and to loosen up the adhesive so it will peel without ripping and tearing. If you overheat it, this will make it harder to work with because it will be too soft and won’t peel off as easily.

Clean the Area

Once you have removed all of the 3M carbon fiber vinyl, you’ll need to clean any adhesive residue off the surface. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner is a product designed especially for cleaning this type of adhesive and it won’t damage the paint when cleaning. After you have removed all of the adhesive, wash the area with a mild soap and water or wipe down the area with a damp cloth if washing is not an option.

If you plan to reapply the vinyl, give the area time to dry completely before reapplying. 3M carbon fiber provides you with many ways to make your vehicle and other items stand out and show off your unique personality. Since you can easily remove and reapply the vinyl whenever you want to, it’s a practical and economic way to express your individuality.

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Source by Lisa A Mason