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Daily Archives2017 March 07

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Taking Care of Your Brake Rotors

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Vehicle owners understand that regular maintenance keeps their vehicles in perfect shape. The most common maintenance areas include checking the level of engine oils, maintaining the pressure of tires and monitoring the level of vital fluids in your car. Little attention is given to Brake Rotors yet they are among the most crucial parts of your vehicle. Failure to pay attention to these parts will result in inconveniences on the road which may lead to accidents. Brakes on your vehicle make the difference between safety and accidents.

Why Brake Rotors?

The braking system of any vehicle is expansive. It incorporates the discs, fluids, hub and other components that bring your vehicle to a halt. The pads clamp on the rotors to bring your vehicle to a halt. Depending on the stopping mechanism and uses of a vehicle, there are different types of rotors and pads. Each has unique properties like heat resistance and provision of a firm grip. These properties determine suitability for different vehicles.

Do I Need To Change My Rotors?

It is the dream of every individual to own a vehicle especially for convenience during movement. Every vehicle owner thus endeavors to keep the vehicle in perfect shape at all times. The areas that require regular maintenance include Brake Rotors. They give signals that they are worn-out and need replacement. What signs can a vehicle owner watch out for?

Conduct a deliberate road test-

it might be difficult to detect malfunction on your rotors during normal drives because your attention is on the road. To conduct a test successfully, use a deserted road which allows you to apply instant brakes without inconveniencing other motorists. Vary the speed before breaking to get a feel of the extent of wear and tear. It is best if you understand the performance at optimum level.

Squealing sound- this is a high pitched noise that occurs once you apply the brakes especially on high speed. Others alongside the sound include the vehicle pulling to one side once you apply the brakes. It shows that pressure is being applied unevenly. A grinding sound also indicates that the pads are scoring or grinding on the rotors. Vibrations also indicate a faulty breaking system.

Replacing Braking Rotors

A driver should always be attentive whenever the vehicle produces unfamiliar sound. The idea is to identify the specific instances when the sound is produced. This is important for accurate diagnosis. The basic solution is to replace components of the brake system that are worn out. In fact, replacing brake pads falls under DIY tasks since it is easy, straight forward and does not require a lot of tools.

It is advantageous to engage an experienced mechanic or garage to safeguard the quality of work. A garage has all the tools and personnel required to successfully complete the replacement. However, you must be prepared to pay the price.

Your safety and control of vehicle on the road depend on the reliability of your braking system. Regularly check your Brake Rotors and other parts to ensure that they are in optimum condition. Involve an experienced and well trained technician in repair, replacement and maintenance of your vehicle.

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Source by Long Chad

Importance of Having a Fire Extinguisher for Your Car

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One of the most important things a person can do for his or her safety and to protect his or her property is to keep a fire extinguisher in his or her car. When a car catches on fire, it can completely burn in less than three minutes. Having an extinguisher in one’s car can help stop the fire and protect surrounding people and property.

A car can be an easy target for fire as it contains gas and oil. In an accident, electrical wires and fuel lines can be damaged and are easily flammable. Having a fire extinguisher in one’s vehicle enhances safety and lessens the chance of a severe fire damaging or totaling one’s vehicle. Even a car’s battery has the potential to leak battery acid and catch a vehicle on fire.

The vast majority of automotive fires start in the engine so a driver has time to grab his or her extinguisher and put the flames out. There’s always the chance that a driver may also see an accident or incident occur before him and may need a fire extinguisher to provide assistance to people in need.

Once a person purchases a fire extinguisher it is important to maintain it. It should be checked twice a year and made sure it is mounted in a secure but easy to reach place. When fighting a fire, a person should try to aim at the base of the fire, and not at the middle of it when they are attempting to put it out.

Make sure when purchasing a fire extinguisher that it has the UL label on it. This means that it has undergone rigorous laboratory testing and can withstand extreme pressures and temperatures. This way a person knows it is strong enough to be a good and effective safety device.

Practice proper safety precautions when putting out a fire as well. If it appears that a fire has formed under your hood while the hood is down, do not pop the hood. The fire could cause an explosion and people could be seriously injured. Fire extinguishers must be used wisely and it is important that people try not to be heroes. If a car fire has large flames, is spreading quickly, or your fire extinguisher has run out of agent, get away from the car and call the fire department. A car is easily replaced, while a person is not.

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Source by Eric L Larsen

What Type of Car Finance Is for You?

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Personal Loan

Personal loan is perceived to be the most popular way to finance a car according to many surveys.

Borrowing money from a bank, building society or other lender gives you instant ownership of the car. Comparison websites such as money supermarket will show you which lenders offer the best deals.

The annual percentage rate (APR) is the easiest way to compare loans, and essential in working out how much a loan will cost you over the repayment period chosen. If the APR isn’t mentioned then ask the question, the headline rate is not always what you get it depends on your individual credit rating.

It’s a temptation to take a longer repayment period which makes the monthly repayment smaller but you will pay more interest. Keep the loan period as short as possible.

The downside to a personal loan unsecured is that in the event of default any of your assets could be seized. With dealer finance only the car is at risk in the event of payment default.

Go for a personal loan if you say YES to any of the following:

• You don’t have any deposit

• You want to own the car outright

• You plan to keep it for a while

• You don’t want annual mileage restrictions

Hire Purchase

After a bank loan hire purchase (HP) is the easiest way to buy a car.

Under HP agreements there’s usually a deposit to pay, typically 10% followed by fixed monthly payments. The car is owned by the HP funder until it’s paid for including any option to purchase fee. At that point the customer has the right to sell the vehicle.

However some customers do sell their cars before the final payment and the good news is for buyers of non-paid up cars is that the law protects private purchasers who buy without knowing the car is not fully owned and no matter what the police or anyone else tells you will get good title if you buy a car on HP in these circumstances. The finance company can ultimately take action against the seller but that’s not your problem.

The credit on an HP agreement is secured against the car, so it’s like dealer finance in that the car can only be seized in the event of default. If you need to sell the car before the end of your agreement you will have to settle the outstanding monies first and early settlement fees may apply.

Go for HP if you say YES to 1 of the following:

• Ultimate ownership is important to you

• Your budget and circumstances suit fixed monthly repayments

• Your disposable income may decrease over the agreement term (eg if you’re planning a family)

• You like credit secured against the car only

• You don’t mind not owning the car until the debt is fully paid.

Personal Contract Purchase (PCP

This product is probably the most popular product of all.

It’s a bit like HP in that you pay a deposit, a fixed rate if interest and monthly repayments usually over 12 to 48 months.

Where PCP differs from HP is at the end of the agreement you have 3 choices.

1. Return the car to the supplier

2. Keep the car

3. Trade the car in against a replacement

The first option returning the car costs nothing, unless you’ve gone over an agreed mileage or returned the car in poor condition. In either case there will be an excess to pay.

Keeping the car means making a final “balloon” payment. This amount is the cars guaranteed future value, or GFV, which is set at the start of the agreement.

The GFV is based on various factors, including the length of the loan and the anticipated mileage as well as the cars projected retail value. If you exercise this final buying option, you can continue to run the car, or you can sell it and pocket any equity above the GFV that you have paid back to the finance company.

If you’re trading in your car, any GFV equity can be used as deposit towards its replacement.

If your car has gone into negative equity which can happen you will have to make up the difference. Shorter agreements are more likely to accurately project the GFV.

Go for PCP if you can say YES to 1 of the following:

• You want lower monthly payments

• You like the flexibility of options at the end of the agreement

• Trade the car in against a replacement

Personal contract hire (PCH)

This product is basically renting your car for typically 2 or 3 years with an agreed mileage limit. There is no option to buy the car at the end of the contract you just hand the car and the keys back to the finance company. Your payments are covering the cars depreciation.

While you’re running it, you’re responsible for its upkeep. On the plus side, the deposit is low as are the fixed repayments and you can negate the impact of repair bills by including a maintenance element into the agreement.

Cars that hold their value well are a good PCH option because the difference in their new and three year old values will be smaller so you will repay a lower amount whilst cars that plummet in value will see you pay more.

Go for PCH if you can say YES to 1 of the following:

• You don’t want to own the car or suffer its depreciation

• You like being able to change cars often

• You like the idea of driving better cars than you could normally afford

• You don’t mind looking after cars

Dealer Finance

Research is a must here as motor dealers love lazy buyers who haven’t done their research. There is no point in haggling on vehicle price if you waste it all on a poor finance deal.

Check out detail on current and forthcoming manufacturer finance deals. These might include interest free or low APR rates or deposit contributions.

Don’t fix on the rate or monthly payment though look at the total repayable to understand the total cost and compare with what you can find in the open market.

Also don’t assume that a dealers finance rate is set in stone, everything is negotiable. Take time to go through things you are not sure about and get the final offer in writing.

The only thing at risk if you don’t keep up dealer finance repayments is the car. Bear in mind that even with sweeteners thrown in the dealer will still make money somewhere in the deal and you are paying for it.

Go for dealer finance if you can say YES to 1 of the following:

• You like the convenience of “package” deals

• You’re happy to do some comparison research

• You don’t want to do the research but you don’t mind paying extra

Self – finance

If you want to own your car using your own money by buying outright it does make some sense when UK savings rates are so low. Buying a car outright is also a sensible alternative to leasing if your mileage is high or unpredictable because of excess mileage charges.

Using a credit card be an advantage as many funders offer 0% on balance transfers and purchases. You can avoid paying interest charges altogether by changing you card at the end of interest free periods.

The choice is yours!

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Source by Tom Skilling

Skills You Need to Restore a Classic Car

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Restoring a classic car can be a scary topic for some people. There are a lot of different types of work that goes into a classic car restoration and most people are not skilled at all of them. When you break the process down into the types of repairs that go into your classic car restoration, it’s easier to come to grips with what you really can or can’t do yourself.

An accounting of your skills can help you decide how much work you can do yourself, and how much of the restoration work you should get done by a professional.

Your classic car restoration can be broken down into a few repair categories.

  • Knowing your car,
  • Mechanical repairs
  • Electrical repairs
  • Interior or upholstery work
  • Sheet metal or rust repair
  • Surface preparation and refinishing
  • Auto body and painting
  • Trim or molding repair and refinishing

Some of these categories are self explanatory. Allow me to clarify the ones that aren’t so obvious.

Knowing your car

Cars have always been available with options like sport trim packages, air conditioning, V8, 6 cylinder, or 4 cylinder engines, and the list goes on. As the car gets on in years, some of these options get removed from the vehicle, replaced with something substandard, or never replaced at all. Option codes and shop manuals are generally available for most American classic cars that detail this information.

Mechanical repairs

This covers a lot of what makes up a car and would be most of the moving parts. You’ll find the engine and transmission will need rebuilding, as well as all the regular maintenance repairs like brakes and suspension, and rebuilding components parts like starters, water pumps, and generators. Other components that rarely get considered are the under dash parts like heater or vent controls, window parts inside the doors, hinges, and latches. I’m only touching on the subject, but you get the idea.

Electrical repairs

Electrical can be the scariest of them all. On an old vehicle the sheathing on the wiring can be dry rotted, and cracked and brittle creating the risk of an electrical short. Switches wear out and even fall apart. On some vehicle where these parts are impossible to find, you’ll need to be creative and improvise by using parts from another vehicle make.

Interior or upholstery work

Cloth, vinyl, leather, threading, and stuffing or padding materials all dry rot over time and need to be replaced. Colors fade really bad as well.

Sheet metal or rust repair

Any metal made with iron will rust, even aluminum will oxidize and even disintegrate under the right conditions. The body sheet metal will need to be replaced or patched. This means knowing how to work with sheet metal, how to weld, and even how to shape metal.

Surface preparation and refinishing

Other than the exterior of the car body, there is a lot of sheet metal surface that will need to be stripped of old paint and surface rust, then prepared so it won’t rust anymore, then painted again. This includes the car frame, suspension parts, differential, fasteners and more.

Auto body and painting

Aside from the sheet metal work the exterior of the car body will need to be smoothed and painted. This is an enormous amount of work which is why it can be so expensive.

Trim or molding repair and refinishing

Classic car trim and molding was made mostly from metals. There are steel chrome plated parts, chrome plated pot metal parts, aluminum, stainless steel and even brass or copper. until recently, some parts can’t be fixed and re-plated, pot metal is on of those. In extreme cases, you’ll need to weld new metal into your trim or moldings, grind and sand them down, polish them and get them ready for re-plating.

That’s a lot to know how to do.

Luckily there are some really good how-to DVD’s available that cover all these topics. Even still you might want to specialize in only 2 or 3 of these skills, and get a professional to do the others.

Learning how to do something like this can be entertaining. Even you if you don’t plan on doing some of this work yourself, you’ll want to know how the work is done so you can recognize a job well done.

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Source by Carl M King

Fisher Price Power Wheels – Do Not Choose the Wrong One For Your Older Child

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The majority of Fisher Price Power Wheels vehicles are really focused at children above the age of three, which you would think means a great choice for parents with children in this age group. Not so. Parents’ continuously pay large amounts of money on the vehicle that looks the best for their particular child and wrongly assume that they all have the same great Fisher Price performance, capability and fun factor under the hood. Wrong again.

For so many parents, their child’s battery powered ride-on just becomes a costly mistake and either ends up cast aside or not really used or they actually spend another large sum of money to now buy the appropriate vehicle. This super quick parent guide attempts to help those parents on the verge of buying a Fisher Price Power Wheels vehicle for their child and hopefully will save you from making the same costly mistakes like so many other parents before and provide your child with maximum safe driving fun at the same time.

Speed

Buy a model that will give your growing child the necessary speed that they will inevitably want as time goes on. Power Wheels vehicles are currently powered by either a 6 volt battery or a 12 volt battery. 6 volts will generally drive the vehicle at about 2.5mph, whereas the 12 volt battery will power the vehicle forward at a maximum of 5mph. However, these ‘official’ top speeds are under perfect conditions running on a fully charged optimal battery and a perfectly flat, smooth and clean road surface. In reality, you will probably achieve a little less speed.

The 6 volt 2.5mph limit is fine for your older child when they are just getting used to their new toy, but give it a few weeks and the ‘crawling’ 6 volt speed becomes very boring, very quickly for them, particularly as other kids on bicycles zip past them!

Off Road Driving

Buy a model that is capable of dealing with everyday surfaces other than just the smooth road. In reality you kid will want to drive over concrete, grass and gravel. Some Power Wheels vehicles have been designed for kids that mainly use them in their grass back yard or in the park, but countless parents buy models that simply come to a standstill or enter into crawl mode when they get onto grass and the parents spend most of the time pushing their child and vehicle out.

It is not only the ATV or off road looking vehicles that have off road capability, some of the normal cars have great off road capability as well. Being able to perform over less desirable surface conditions really comes down to the power of the battery (12 volts = best), traction ability (the new Monster Traction = best), tire tread and width (wide rugged tires = best) and weight of vehicle (lighter = best).

Brake Safety

Buy a model with the Fisher Price Power Wheels ‘Power Lock’ braking system. This is especially important for the faster 12 volt vehicles as opposed to the slower 6 volt vehicles. It’s one thing for your child to race their new ride on toy at top speed downhill, but it is always nice to know that when it comes to stopping that the vehicle’s braking system can actually stop your child quickly and under control.

The Power Lock braking system is being fitted to most of the 12 volt vehicles now and really does go a long way in providing more capable stopping ability for your child to maximize safety and minimize harm for them. For the older and more advanced drivers out there, this braking system also allows you to pull off some great slides!

Top Power Wheels Picks For Older Children

The most popular and consistently highly rated Fisher Price Power Wheels vehicles that have 12 volt batteries, ‘more than’ smooth road surface capability and are fitted with the Power Lock braking system include: Barbie Jammin Jeep, Rubicon Jeep, Ford F150, Cadillac Escalade, Kawasaki KFX Ninja, Barbie Ford Mustang and partially applicable is the Lightning McQueen.

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Source by Laura Robbinson