Supercharger Tuning Through Cam Selection and Cam Timing

[ad_1]

Camshaft tuning is an essential part of supercharger tuning. Camshafts orchestrate the valve opening and closing events in the engine and decide whether what comes out of our motor is beautiful high power music, or a mess of dysphonics.

The use of the proper supercharger optimized cam shaft can go a long way towards supercharger tuning and give considerable power gains for the money invested.

To understand camshaft timing and camshaft selection we have to understand first:

Relativity: Changing when the valves open or close (intake or exhaust) changes the the valve timing with respect to:

  • The piston position inside the cylinder. Depending on where the pistons is in the stroke, and where we are in the combustion cycle, then opening the valves will exploit the pressure difference between the cylinder and the intake and exhaust manifolds.For example it would make sense that the ideal time to open the intake valve is when there is peak vacuum inside the cylinder so that when the valve opens, the maximum amount of fresh air can be ingested. Similarly, it makes sense not to open the exhaust valve until peak cylinder pressures have been achieved inside the combustion chamber and the combustion is complete and all the power is extracted.
  • The high and low pressure pulses created by the design and runner lengths of the intake and exhaust manifolds.It would make sense to open the intake valve just as the reflected pressure waves in the intake manifold reach the intake valve as a high pressure portion of the wave, thus opening the valve at this high pressure point gives a ‘ram air’ effect through volumetric efficiency resonance tuning increasing air ingestion which increases power.Similarly on the exhaust side, it makes sense to open the exhaust valve, just as the reflected low pressure (vacuum) portion of the exhaust wave (reflected back from the collector) reaches the back of the exhaust valve. At this point in time there is both peak pressure inside the cylinder, and vacuum in the exhaust which creates a higher pressure differencial and a faster evacuating exhaust gas.
  • With respect to the ignition timing event, for example a shorter duration or advanced exhaust cam, opens the exhaust valve sooner with respect to when the mixture was originally ignited, this means that although by advancing the exhaust cam we may have matched our header design and opened the valve with the lowest possible exhaust back pressure for best efficiency, at the same time, we have reduced the amount of time that the mixture is combusted and possibly opened the valve before reaching our peak cylinder pressures and thrown away some horsepower.
  • The intake valves with respect to the exhaust valves: and this is usually described in terms of lobe separation angles (the offset in degrees between the center of the exhaust cam and between the center of the intake cam), or in terms of how many degrees of overlap (the number of degrees that both intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time).

Since the combustion inside the cylinder occurs at a much higher pressure than atmospheric pressure, and since exhaust valves are usually smaller than intake valves (for this same high pressure reason) then exhaust gas velocity is much higher than intake gas velocity. So, in some engines it is beneficial to open the intake valve earlier than usual during the last part of the exhaust stroke, this is called overlap. During overlap – at the very end of the exhaust stroke – the amount of pressure left in the cylinder is low so it is possible to breathe in new air under atmospheric pressure, at the same time, the high velocity of the exhaust gasses exiting help draw in even more fresh air from the intake side in an effect much like ‘syphoning’ where the fluid (in our case air) flows as a continuous stream drawing in new intake air after the old exhaust gas leaves.

The other part of phenomenon that relates to timing intake valves with respect to exhaust valves is the duration of time where both valves are absolutely closed, which is your power stroke. This is the part of the combustion cycle where the mixture can be compressed and combusted. If either (or both) intake or exhaust valves are open you will not be able to neither compress nor combust the mixture, and the absolute duration of time (in degrees of rotation) that your mixture is combusted and allowed to reach peak cylinder pressures is affected by camshaft selection and cam timing. One thing to note is that the valve angle has a lot to do with exhaust scavenging, obviously you will get maximum scavanging if the exhaust and intake valves had ‘line of sight’ i.e. if the valves were separated by an angle of 180*. If so, the exhaust air can directly pull in new air. Conversely, you would have the least possible scavenging if you had valves that were at a narrow angle (zero degrees at the extreme) between each other, so that the air would essentially have to make a U turn to come in through the intake and get pulled out the exhaust.

So different motors respond differently to overlap depending on the exhaust back pressure and the valve angle.

Duration:

Cam duration is the number of degrees of the entire 360* rotation that the intake or exhaust valve is open. The longer the duration, the more air you can get into the motor, the more overlap you have (which helps more with higher rpm power performance), the shorter your power stroke is (which reduces your combustion duration and your peak cylinder pressures reducing low rpm fuel efficiencly and clean idle….etc

Increased duration (with it’s increased overlap and scavenging) also gives the opportunity for exhaust gasses to get to the intake, or intake gasses to leak to the exhaust, and so are more sensitive to proper timing events otherwise we can get some negative effects from being ‘overcammed’

Lift:

Lift is how far or how deep the valve opens into the cylinder. The more lift you have, the less the valve is a restriction to incoming air because it is farther away from the direct path of entering or exiting air. Adding lift in general adds power to all rpms, depending on how well the camshaft (and valve train) can accelerate the valve to a higher lift number in a short duration. It’s like a ramp, the shorter the duration and higher the lift, the steeper the ramp. So what happens here is that if your valve train isn’t light enough and well controlled (Through proper valve springs or hydraulic lifting and damping) to operate that rapidly then lift will give you improved performance at lower rpms (where there is a lot of time to move the valve to peak lift) but reduced performance at higher rpms, where there are more rounds per minute and so less time per round, and thus less time to go up the steep ramp and push the valve out to full extension.

Lift is good, but usually people don’t try to radically increase lift on their aftermarket cams because of a few considerations:

  1. Make sure that at this new lift, that there is still enough clearance between the valve (at full extension) and the cylinder (at top dead center) to prevent any catastrophic mechanical failure.
  2. Upgrade to lighter valve train, with stiffer springs or dual valve springs to have more control over the valve with this steeper cam profile.
  3. It does add power but it doesn’t shift the power curve up or down as radically as changing cam duration does, and so in most aftermarket applications we really want a cam to give us peak power at a certain rpm range and so we care much more about the best duration (and some added lift).

I know this is a somewhat complex topic, but I need to make sure we’re speaking the same language before we go into how this relates to superchargers. Before you decide which camshaft to use (or how to adjust the timing on your stock cams) you have to look at one very important thing:

Your exhaust system and exhaust back pressure:

If you have a stock log type exhaust manifold, with a close coupled cat, with a dual cat exhaust system, small exhaust tubing, and a couple of restrictive mufflers on your car then it is possible at peak power to have up to 10psi of back pressure.

If this is the case, my first recommendation would be to upgrade to a high flow, low pressure exhaust system because of the potential power gains; however, I do know that some of our readers have cars that they are setting up for their parents or for dual use where their partner or the laws in their location …etc are really strict when it comes to any added exhaust noise or any aftermarket exhaust. In this case, where exhaust upgrades are not an option, then you must select your camshafts, and tune your cam timing to where you have ABSOLUTELY the minimum possible amount of overlap. If you have significant overlap, then the more you rise above about 4500 rpms the more your supercharger will suffer and the more power you will waste. If the supercharger is geared to 7psi of boost for example, then during overlap, the cylinder sees 7psi of boost on the intake side, and 10psi of back pressure on the exhaust side, the net result is that air will flow from the high pressure zone (the exhaust) to the lower pressure zone (the intake) and so your cylinder will start to fill with exhaust gases. As the rotation continues, the exhaust valve will close and overlap will end, and the intake valve will stay open for the remainder of the intake stroke (for the rest of the duration of your intake cam), and the rest of the cylinder will fill with fresh air.

What happens here is that we get a cylinder that filled for 30* of overlap with exhaust air, and then filled for another 210* (of the original 240* of duration for a typical street cam) with fresh air. The result is a cylinder that is only 85% filled with fresh air or an engine that is literally 15% smaller in displacement! On the other hand, if our supercharger is geared for 18psi for example, then during overlap we will have 18psi on the intake side and our exhaust back pressure of 10psi on the exhaust side, the net result of this overlap is that our supercharger is effectively only producing 8psi worth of differential pressure between the intake and the cylinder and so we are only going to get a power boost of 8psi during overlap. So, during those 30* of overlap the supercharger is only effectively producing 8psi of boost, and after that once the exhaust valve closes, the supercharger will be able to go back to operating at full boost for the other 210*. The net result is something like 16psi of boost so 2psi (or about 12%) of our power was wasted.

Supercharger tuning through cam selection and cam timing

Intake cam:

Because of the negative effects of overlap on a supercharger car’s performance, and especially in the case of high exhaust back pressure as is the case with most factory supercharged cars, we find that the optimal cam duration for the intake cam is typically 30-40* of duration less than a normally aspirated camshaft for the same peak power RPM. The decision to reduce the intake cam duration rather than split the duration reduction between the intake and exhaust cams, is that the intake cam will flow air under pressurized conditions (due to the addition of the supercharger and the increase in intake manifold pressure) and so at a reduced intake cam duration the engine will still be able to get it’s full share of intake air. At the same time, the high rpm efficiency improvement from the reduction of overlap will also boost power production with a more conservative cam. Finally, if we would like to get more flow from the intake cam, there is still the option of using a higher lift camshaft (with a steeper profile due to the decreased duration) with supporting valve train modifications to make sure valve float doesn’t occur at higher rpms.

Intake cam timing:

The cam timing for the intake cam would ideally be retarded which would move the intake cam opening event farther away from the exhaust valve closing event so as to reduce or eliminate overlap, and as a side effect the power stroke duration will increase by retarding the intake cam which can also compensate for the lost power from the duration reduction.

Exhaust cam:

The exhaust cam duration and lift for a supercharged version of the motor should be similar to a nitrous camshaft, in the sense that the exhaust cams on nitrous specific builds have:

1- Very healthy cam duration & very healthy cam lift to allow a severely elevated amount of exhaust gases to be able to efficiently exit the motor when the nitrous is activated and the horsepower (and thus the exhaust gasses) have both doubled in quantity.

2- As little or no overlap if possible, as any overlap would mean that nitrous would be sprayed from the intake side and out the exhaust, which is wasteful of our limited supply of nitrous. Similarly the more overlap we have, the harder the supercharger will have to work because of what we explained earlier about either exhaust reversion into the intake, or the supercharger pressurizing the exhaust.

Exhaust cam timing:

Advancing the exhaust cam both opens and closes the exhaust valves sooner. Opening the exhaust valve sooner slightly reduces the power stroke, but at the same time it reduces overlap and makes better use of our supercharger. Typically an an advanced exhaust cam combined with retarded intake cam will provide the best results on a supercharged car, especially with a restrictive exhaust.

If we had a high flow exhaust system installed, then it may not be beneficial to advance the exhaust cam, a high flow exaust system that is optimized for our engine’s power requirements can clear the combustion chamber of all it’s gasses very efficiently. Having a high duration exhaust cam, a low back pressure exhaust system and a no overlap what so ever camshaft means that we are giving the exhaust gas plenty of time to exit they cylinder, the intake valve still hasn’t opened (because the we have decide to retard it, or use a conservative cam with less duration) and so the supercharger is not pushing any new fresh air in yet, now the cylinder is void and so some of the exhaust gas can revert back into the cylinder, then the exhaust valve will close, and then the intake valve will open only to find the cylinder already partially filled with exhaust gases.

This isn’t a problem with a restrictive exhaust because a restrictive exhaust will take some time to clear the cylinder at a lower velocity, however with a higher flow exhaust system we must be careful not to dial out ALL of the overlap in the cam timing, or to over-cam the exhaust cam (using too much duration).

So exhaust cam timing can be advanced or retarded, depending on the exhaust modifications and the intake cam selection and thus must be dyno-tuned.

It’s important to note that with all of these changes in cam selection , overlap, power stroke duration, and cam timing, that the power stroke duration is effected and if it is effectively shortened then we may need to retune the car’s timing advance on the dyno (for increased advance) to regain losses in duration of the power stroke (again this against popular thinking of never to advance timing on forced induction cars, if we have a shortened power stroke, or an application with significant overlap then it may be necessary to do so).

So we see here that the end result here a lop-sided camshaft with a conservative duration, high lift cam on the intake side, and a normal duration, high lift cam on the exhaust with minimal lobe separation angle and minimal (but not necessarily no) overlap.

The exception to the rule:

Sometimes people take a car that starts off with a 9000 rpm redline, has an 11.5:1 compression ratio, and a 280* duration camshaft, and an aggressive naturally aspirated-esque timing curve and decide to supercharge it for more power. One suck example is kleemann’s kompressor for the SLK55 AMG (which already makes 400 hp in normally aspirated form from an 11:1 compression ratio motor). In this type of application, if you use a more conservative cam, and dial out all the overlap, and increase the power stroke, in combination with an already high 11:1 compression ratio and a healthy amount of boost pressure (7psi or above) you will end up with a motor that produces extremely high peak cylinder pressures and those intense pressures and heat may easily start off a chain reaction of pre-ignition and detonation and you will find that no matter how much you retard the timing that the setup will end up both powerless and still not that safe.

In this case, I would consider RPM and compression my primary power adder, and my supercharger as my secondary power adder (that is unless I decided to change that and went ahead and lowered the compression ratio of the motor). In this case it is OK to sacrifice some supercharger high rpm efficiency for preventing high-load & low-rpm detonation. Furthermore, to overcome the overlap inherent in this kind of high rpm normally aspirated power-plant it would be very advisable to use a centrifugal supercharger that is capable of producing more boost and flow with increased rpm rather than a roots type charger that will easily run out of boost and flow capacity (CFM) when facing an aggressive camshaft ‘leaking’ boost away.

Here is a great example of how cam tuning can affect supercharged power:

The car is a 1.8 liter Honda motor equipped with:

  • Supercharger optimized big primaries and short runners Kamakazi header
  • A greddy 2.5? SP2 catback exhaust system.
  • An LHT ported “S” supercharger inlet tube
  • An LHT ported intake manifold ( Non intercooled)
  • A Carbon fibre intake
  • A Jackson racing eaton M62 supercharger geared for 7.5-8 psi.

The black line is the baseline run with all of these modifications before tuning with peak power coming in at: 223 wheel hp @ 7600 rpms.

The blue line is the power achieved after a full tine (camshaft timing redone for reduced overlap, ignition timing re-optimized, and air fuel ratio optimized for peak power), with peak power coming in at 248 hp @ 8400 rpms.

You can see on by the dyno results that by reducing overlap and properly tuning the car the power peak not only increased by 25 horsepower, but more importantly shifted up by 1000 RPM’s due to increased supercharger high rpm efficiency from reduced overlap.

[ad_2]

Source by Haitham Al Humsi

Snowmobile Power Valves – Polaris, Ski-Doo & Arctic Cat Variable Exhaust Valve System Basics

[ad_1]

They can be called “APV” by Arctic Cat, “RAVE” by Ski-Doo or “VES” by Polaris. If you own a 2-stroke snowmobile made in the last 15 years, the engine is likely equipped with “variable exhaust power valves”. If that is the case, you probably know that you have to be quite diligent about their cleanliness and operation. This is one engine component that has to be monitored regularly to maintain peak performance.

Variable exhaust power valves are moving devices located at the engine’s exhaust port. Every brand’s variation is there to provide the same essential service and that is to vary the height and width of the exhaust port according to engine RPM. This vastly broadens the power band. At low RPM, the valves are in a closed position which promotes more complete combustion. This improves low-end torque and minimizes unburned gases in the exhaust stream. At high RPM, the valves are wide open which allows for optimum exhaust flow. This enables the engine to rev freely and produce maximum top end horsepower. Older systems were actuated by a mechanical linkage which opened and closed the valves based on engine RPM. Modern systems are actuated by electronic servo motors which precisely position the valves throughout the RPM range. Before the advent of the power valve, engine builders had to determine one size and shape of the exhaust port and exhaust pipe. This predetermined whether the engine would provide its optimum power delivery at either the high, mid or low RPM range. The power valve allows the two-cycle engine to provide usable horsepower throughout its operating RPM range.

The modern power valve system has evolved from a number of different variations over the last 30 years. Yamaha was the first company to find success with this concept when they integrated a variable exhaust power valve system in their 2-stroke Grand Prix road-racing motorcycles in the late 1970’s. The technology then made its way to Yamaha’s production road and motocross bikes the early 1980’s. Other motorcycle manufacturers soon came up with their own systems. By the early 1990’s, virtually all high-performance two-cycle motorcycles, ATV’s, personal water-crafts and snowmobiles were equipped with variable exhaust power valve systems.

Keeping the power valve system clean is of paramount importance. As power valves are located directly in the stream of the exhaust flow, carbon deposits can accumulate on the valves over time. The deposit build-up can alter the shape of the valves and change the engine’s exhaust flow characteristics. In extreme cases, the exhaust port can become completely clogged and expensive damage can occur. Deposits can also can hinder the valve movement or leave them stuck in one spot. Any of these scenarios will drastically impair the power delivery and output of your engine.

The task of maintaining your snowmobile’s power valve system is not complicated. Your service or owner’s manual will give specific instructions on how to remove and clean the system. Be careful when cleaning the valves, as you do not want to scratch or roughen the surfaces. Your manual will also offer a specific service interval and it should be followed religiously.

Once your valves are clean, there are ways to prevent premature valve depositing. First and foremost is to make sure that your machine is tuned correctly. Overly rich carburetor jetting is a major contributor to this malady. Rich jetting will allow too much fuel into the combustion chamber and this promotes carbon formation. If your sled is fuel injected, make sure that the system is operating correctly. Also make sure that your oil injection system is delivering the proper amount of oil. Perform regular spark plug readings as described in your manual. If your plug readings are off and you cannot determine the cause, contact your dealer.

Another major contributor to power valve depositing is the use of poor quality 2-cycle oil. The cheaper base stocks and additives used in lower grade oils can be cooked into carbon deposits very quickly. High quality synthetic two-cycle oil is notorious for its clean burning characteristics and will dramatically lower the rate of deposit formation. Good quality synthetic oils use sophisticated base stocks and high temperature additives which are engineered to avoid power valve depositing. They also have an effective detergent/dispersant package which will allow for much cleaner operation. When it comes to two-stroke injector oil, you definitely get what you pay for. Spending a little more on an oil that is specifically engineered to provide clean power valve operation will not only improve your engine’s performance, it will save the headaches and expense that come with premature power valve depositing.

Snowmobiles operated at low speed and steady RPM over extended periods can also promote deposit build up. During this type of operation, the valves maintain a stationary position and this allows deposits to form. If the valves are constantly changing positions, there is less chance of deposits forming and increasing in size.

Variable exhaust power valves have revolutionized the capabilities of 2-cycle engines. With a little bit of maintenance and care, they will offer trouble-free performance.

[ad_2]

Source by Marc Roden

Nine Driving Practice Maneuvers

[ad_1]

When you have become familiar with the car and the sequences required for starting and stopping, practice the following maneuvers, moving from Exercise One to Nine. During the exercises, good driving habits will be formed by remembering to use the proper signaling and shoulder checking techniques at all times.

Use a parking lot or an off street area to practice in, if possible, and if pylons or some other kind of markers are available, they will also prove very helpful.

When you are driving, remember to make all your movements gently, using light pressure on the accelerator or the brake pedal, and easy movements of the steering wheel. A good driver is a smooth driver.

When you are ready, start the car and move away slowly.

Exercise One: Driving Forward In A Straight Line

• Make sure the parking brake is on.

• With your right foot on the brake, place the gear selector in Drive.

• Keep your hands on the steering wheel at the ten and two position.

• Check the traffic.

• Signal.

• Place your right foot on the accelerator.

• Release the parking brake.

• Press gently on the accelerator, so that you move ahead slowly.

• Remove your right foot from the accelerator and apply the brake easing up slightly just before the car comes to a stop.

• Move the gear selector to Park.

Exercise Two: Backing in a Straight Line

• With your right foot on the brake, move the gear selector to the Reverse position.

• Assume the proper backing position. Many drivers find the best procedure is to place their left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position, shift their position in the seat, and look backwards over their right shoulder.

• Check the traffic.

• Place your right foot on the brake, and bring the car to a gentle stop.

• Move the gear selector to Park.

Exercise Three: Steering Left and Right

Turning Left

• Place your hands at the ten and two position on the steering wheel.

• Turn the wheel counter clockwise with the right hand.

• Cross your left hand over your right, and, grasping the wheel at the top, pull it downwards to the left.

• Replace your right hand at the two o’clock position, and turn counter clockwise again.

• Straighten your wheels as you complete your turn by letting the steering wheel slide through your hands. Be prepared to correct as needed.

Turning Right

• Place your hands at the ten and two position.

• Turn the wheel clockwise with your left hand.

• Cross your right hand over your left, and, grasping the wheel at the top, pull it downwards to the right.

• Replace your left hand at the ten o’clock position, and turn clockwise again. Straighten your wheels as when turning left.

When you practice these maneuvers, be sure the car is moving before you begin to turn the steering wheel; otherwise, excessive wear to the tires and the steering mechanism will result.

When straightening out from a curve, return the steering wheel to its original position in a hand over hand motion.

Exercise Four: Turning A Corner To The Right

• Drive slowly forward.

• Signal a right turn.

• Check your mirrors, and over your right shoulder.

• Adjust your speed before starting the turn (braking in the turn can cause a skid).

• Take your foot off the brake and return it to the accelerator. Maintain speed, but do not accelerate.

• Turn the steering wheel to the right, using the techniques from Exercise Three. Be careful not to over steer.

• Straighten your wheels as you complete your turn by letting the steering wheel slide through your hands. Be prepared to correct as needed.

• Accelerate lightly coming out of the turn. Caution: harsh acceleration in the turn may cause a skid.

Exercise Five: Turning A Corner To The Left

• Drive slowly forward.

• Signal a left turn.

• Check your mirrors, and over your left shoulder.

• Adjust your speed before starting the turn.

• Take your foot off the brake and return it to the accelerator. Maintain speed but do not accelerate.

• Turn the steering wheel to the left.

• Straighten your wheels as you complete your turn by letting the steering wheel slide through your hands. Be prepared to correct as needed.

• Accelerate lightly coming out of the turn.

Exercise Six: Making a Figure 8 Turn

The purpose of a figure 8 turn is to combine right and left turns in the same exercise. Figure 8 turns may be made either starting to the left or to the right – both should be practiced. Caution: this maneuver should be practiced only in a vacant parking lot or other open space.

• Drive slowly forward.

• Signal a right turn.

• Check your mirrors, and over your right shoulder.

• Turn the steering wheel to the right. Complete a 360 degree turn before straightening out.

• Signal a left turn.

• Check your mirrors, and over your right shoulder.

• Turn the steering wheel to the left. Complete a 360 degree turn before straightening out.

• Repeat the procedure several times. Try varying the sharpness of your turns, so as to make large 8’s and small 8’s.

Exercise Seven: Backing To The Right

• Place the gear selector in Reverse.

• Assume the proper backing position. Many drivers find the best procedure is to place their left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position, shift their position in the seat, and look backwards over their right shoulder.

• Back the car very slowly.

• Turn the wheel clockwise to the right (the rear of the car will turn right).

• Just before the car has reached a 90 degree turn, straighten the car by steering to the left.

• Apply the brake to stop the car gently.

• Return the gear selector to the Park position. Caution: since vision is restricted when backing, a good rule to follow is never to back unless necessary, and never back farther than necessary.

Exercise Eight: Backing To The Left

• Place the gear selector in Reverse.

• Back the car very slowly

• Place hands at the ten and two position on the steering wheel. Turn the wheel counter clockwise to the left (the rear of the car will turn left).

• Just before the car has completed a 90 degree turn, straighten the car by steering to the right.

• Apply the brakes to stop the car gently.

• Return the gear selector to the Park position.

Exercise Nine: Backing The Car Through A Figure 8 Turn

• Place the gear selector in Reverse.

• Back the car very slowly.

• Place both hands at the ten and two position on the steering wheel. Turn to the right. After the car has completed a 360 degree turn, turn the wheel to the left and straighten the car.

• Turn to the left. After the car has completed a 360 degree turn, turn right and straighten the car.

• Apply the brakes to stop the car gently.

• Return the gear selector to the Park position.

By now, you have made a good deal of progress in becoming a safe, skillful driver. If you have mastered the essential controls of your car, and can effortlessly perform the practice maneuvers in the exercises above, you are ready for the next step – driving in actual traffic conditions. If you are relaxed and careful, it will be a pleasant experience – but don’t forget to take learner’s permit with you when you get behind the wheel!

[ad_2]

Source by Kris Kolanko

How to Write Irresistible Promotional Pieces That Attract More and Better Clients

[ad_1]

Whether you’re creating a sales letter, a brochure, a newsletter, or any other business promotional piece, you need to write in a way that not only explains your product or service, but that also compels your prospects to contact you. A well-written promotional piece entices people to seek out more information, whether it be via a phone call, an e-mail, or an in-person visit. A good promotional piece also showcases your professionalism and your creativity.

The key word to remember here is “entice.” Your promotional piece should not give every detail – that’s your sales department’s job. The promotional piece is merely the introduction.

Unfortunately, many promotional pieces miss the mark. Outrageous claims, weak calls to action, and sloppy formatting are the common mistakes that plague most people’s writing. Such errors accomplish only one thing: They destine your promotional piece for the infamous “round file.” They also show prospects that you’re lazy, uncreative, and possibly incapable of delivering quality work.

In order to entice prospects to contact you based on your promotional mailings, you need to keep your writing both lively and factual. The following guidelines will help you write promotional pieces that even your toughest prospects can’t resist.

1. Make it readable.

Only use white, off-white, or other soothing paper colors. If you think using outrageous paper colors, such as neon yellow or fuchsia, will gain attention, think again. Hurting someone’s eyes is not the way to gain attention. Also, be mindful of the font you choose. Sure, your computer comes with all sorts of innovative fonts, but this is not the time to try them out. Stick with a simple font, such as Time New Roman or Arial, in a 10, 11, or 12-point type. If you have to make your print tiny in order to squeeze everything in your allotted space, then you’re saying too much. As Shakespeare said, “Brevity is the soul of wit.” In the case of promotional writing, “Brevity is the showcase of your wits.”

2. Write a headline that gets to the point.

You have less than five seconds to impress your prospects to read on. And the first thing any prospect reads is the piece’s headline. So craft a compelling headline that immediately conveys why this information is important to your prospects. The four main headline formulas that work are:

o How To – The formula is “How to” + verb + product/service/noun + benefit.

Example: How to Create a Store Promotion that Increases Revenue

o New – The formula is “New” + product/service + benefit.

Example: New Tax Law Saves You Money

o Power Verb – The formula is “Power Verb” + product/service + benefit.

Example: Prepare a Business Plan that Boosts Company Profits

o Free – The formula is “Free” + product/service + benefit.

Example: Free Booklet Reveals the Secret to Lowering Your Interest Rate

Regardless of the headline formula you choose, avoid sounding like an infomercial or a used-car salesperson. Since your headline determines if the prospect keeps reading, craft yours wisely.

3. Keep the hype to a minimum.

Many people think that in order to solicit interest in their promotional piece they must write something outrageous. To some degree, this is true. Saying something outrageous is a great way to generate interest, as people naturally love controversy. Plus, if you can stir things up, you’ll get lots of exposure. The thing to remember, however, is that you must be prepared to answer questions and/or prove everything you write. So if you want to write something just for sensationalism but can’t back it up, don’t. You must be able to support everything you print.

4. Go easy on the posturing.

While you may produce the best products or offer the most unique services in the world, that is for your prospects to decide. Every superlative you use in your promotional piece will reduce the prospect’s trust in what you say. So instead of telling prospects that your product is “the most extraordinary widget to hit the market” or that your service is “capable of revolutionizing the industry,” show your prospects how these claims are possible. Give the benefits of using the product or service as they pertain to your prospects’ lives so they can determine just how extraordinary or revolutionary the product or service really is.

5. Evoke images.

As you write, evoke more than one of the five senses. Paint a picture with your words so prospects see, hear, smell, taste, and feel what you’re describing. Contrary to popular belief, the best promotional writers think in pictures, not words. They see the image they want to convey to their prospects, and that’s what they write. So if you’re a candy manufacturer or a florist, for example, write so that your readers smell the candy or the flowers, not just see what they look like. If you’re in the restaurant business, help your readers taste the food. If you’re writing about business productivity, help your prospects hear the hustle of productivity and feel the rush of a sales call. Do more than just tell prospects what’s going on.

6. Always make a compelling call to action.

What do you want the person reading your sales letter, brochure, or other promotional piece to do? Buy your product? Call you for more information? Visit your web site? Whatever action you want your prospects to take, state it clearly. Too many promotional pieces ramble on about all the features and benefits of the product, but they never tell the prospects to actually do anything. For example, in a sales letter you could write: “Please call our office immediately for more information on how we can help.” A brochure could say: “Order the widget at our special introductory price today.” In a newsletter you could write: “Visit our web site for more information about our new product line.” Tell prospects precisely what you want them to do.

7. Clearly state your contact information.

Always let prospects know whom to contact and how to do so. List a name, phone number, and e-mail address prominently on every piece. Rarely will prospects search for your contact information, so display it prominently at the top and bottom of every page. Highlight the contact information if it blends in with the text too much. Remember, the goal is for your prospects to contact you. Make it easy for them to do so.

Make Your Promotional Pieces Work for You

When your promotional pieces present your information in the most compelling and factual manner, your prospects will find them and your company irresistible. So as you write future sales letters, brochures, or other promotional pieces, keep these guidelines in mind. When you do, you’ll create a promotional piece that delights prospects and makes them eager to do business with you. With well-written promotional pieces, you will attract more and better clients to help your business grow.

[ad_2]

Source by Dawn Josephson

How to Put a V8 Motor in a Corvair

[ad_1]

Sometimes a challenge is just that and no more. Not practical maybe but fun nonetheless. I owned at the time, a small shop repair shop where I would tinker with cars and motorcycles and make a few dollars as well. One afternoon during a bull session with some buddies, one of them said it would be neat if we could put a V8 motor in one of my Corvair cars. I had several of them and loved to tinker with the Monza model which was Chevy’s souped up version of this rear engined car. The Corvair had no independent frame and was one of the first uni-body cars on the market. Extremely lightweight, the six cylinder motor with the factory blower made the car zip right along. It really was a silly looking car in the first years of production, kinda boxy and square. Later models became more streamlined but suffered the same engineering problems of the early years and quickly the car faded into obscurity. I had one car with no motor and the body was not in the best of shape. I remember saying I could put the V8 in that car and the guys quickly put me to the challenge.

My shop had a pretty good assortment of tools, torches, welders, jacks and power hand tools that allowed me to make just about anything in metal. A big drill press, a good vise and tons of nuts and bolt

assortments put most of what I needed at hand. After the guys left the thought of doing this V8 conversion nagged at me and I found myself checking out the car to see if it was really possible. Putting the motor in the car could always be done but I thought how about doing it so you could not tell from the outside that the car was altered? At least until you started it up. There was no way I was going to be able to make that V8 motor sound like the wimpy six cylinder factory motor.

The first item on the agenda was to remove all the factory drive train components. Since the motor was already gone, the rear end, including the wheels were a snap to remove. I had a Chevy V8 short block that I could use for test fitting the engine into the trunk. The trunk of a Corvair was in the front of the car. A major amount of sheet metal had to be removed to squeeze the engine down into the truck compartment. I had to mock up the motor with some heads and intake manifold to assure the trunk lid (hood) would close after the engine was in place. Once I managed to get the engine into the trunk and was satisfied with it’s location, motor mounts became the next item to complete. Since there was no frame under the car I had to fabricate a partial sub-frame that was able to accept bolt-on motor mounts. I had several transmissions to choose from including a used manual three speed Chevy unit. This was a direct bolt-on to the V8 so in it went. Making a tail mount for the trans was nothing more than some three inch channel iron that spanned from one side of the car to the other. So far with the doors and hood closed the car looked stock. I purchased a used small pickup truck rear end and began altering it to fit under the Corvair body. No easy task I can say. Concealing fourteen inch wheels where thirteens were before required even more modification to the cars sheet metal including new wheel wells and interior wheel covers.

With the three major components of the drive train now mounted in the car, I was able to start on all the smaller items that a car needs to run. The drive shaft had to be custom made as it was less than three

feet long and needed a mid-point universal to offset the different heights of the transmission and the rear end. The radiator was made from an old V8 Chevy unit but had to be altered to be able to lay on its side. A friend of my Dads owned the local radiator repair shop and was more than wiling to do the alterations at almost no cost as he too thought the car was pretty neat. Wiring the car in those days was a simple task as there were none of the bells and whistles in cars today. No computers, no special sensors for this and that. Just whatever a car needed to run and work the lights and so on. I retained all the Chevy factory lights, turn signals and so on and really just needed to wire the engine components and battery. I placed the battery in the rear of the car as even then I realized the car was going to be light in the rear. What an understatement that was.

The conversion took about four months to do as I remember. There were a few bugs to work out of course as I had no engineering staff to advise me what I was doing wrong but all in all the bugs were pretty minor. The first time I started the car the thrill of hearing the motor growl under that hood cannot be described. The first time I put the car in gear and drove it around the property was a real kick. I purchased license plates for the car and drove it for a couple of weeks to work out the kinks and have time to complete some type of interior. I added only one other bucket seat as the car was not a touring car but would certainly be fun at the local drag strip. I clearly remember the first time I actually drove the car to my buddies house to show him the V8 motor in the car and take him for a ride. On a back road, holding one foot on the brake pedal and punching the gas with the other, I was able to smoke the tires with no effort at all. From a slow roll or moving at 40 MPH, punching the gas pedal would squeal the tires and create tire smoke instantly. The car was a real gas.

I drove the car that summer and had a ball taking it to Stewart’s drive-in in Paramus, New Jersey on Friday and Saturday nights. It was fun to have other guys laugh at the car and ask to race for papers. After a few races the laughter stopped. I didn’t take their papers but my little Corvair was a hit that summer with all the custom car guys. I sold the car that winter to a young fella who wanted to complete the interior and exterior paint. He drove the car for quite a while and then I lost track of it’s where abouts. I had already moved on to another project but I had proven that you could squeeze a V8 motor into a stock Corvair body.

Pete Ackerson

[ad_2]

Source by Peter Ackerson

Free Air Versus Coin Operated Air at the Gas Station – Why $0 is the Future of Business

[ad_1]

If this totally frustrates you then here is my recent experience. It was Saturday morning, the 22nd of May 2010 and I had errands to run. As I was getting into my car, I noticed my front left tire looked as though it needed air. I took out my tire gauge and sure enough, it did. I did not want to drive a long distance in that condition so after my first errand, I pulled into a Shell station and there was a fee to use the air. Can you imagine paying for air? I refuse to unless I am traveling on the highway and have no alternative.

I drove off and pulled into a Sunoco and they also charged a fee. This particular station used to be another name brand station within the last 2-3 years. I cannot recall the name but the air was free at that time. I headed to the Chevron across the street. There is also a fee for using their air. I left and drove about 2 miles approaching another Shell station. I was in the left turning lane and could see the air pump and it looked as though it was a coin operated one. I did not bother to stop.

As I was continuing on to my next destination, I realized that I was near a Wawa station and made a quick left turn before going straight through the traffic signal. I knew that 2 other Wawa locations offered free air and I would have gone to one of them but they both were off my route and I did not want to backtrack. I pulled into the Wawa, used the air pump, and was on my way when done. I wasted a lot of time that morning trying to locate free air.

In this economy, why would they continue to charge us to use their air all the while increasing their gas prices? I am an internet marketer and I need to make a point about offering something for free because that is what we do. Why do you think Wawa offers free air? In my opinion, they offer us something for free in order to get the up sale later. In other words, we will not charge you to fill up your 4 tires and spare, because we will offer you our reasonably priced gasoline and you will come inside our convenience store to purchase breakfast foods, sandwiches, salads, snacks, coffee or a soft drink totaling 3-4 times the amount the air will cost. They do not need to charge us.

I have gone inside to pay cash for my gas and there are almost always a line of people purchasing coffee and breakfast foods in the early morning. Lunch is no different. This business decision is one that will truly pay off for them for years to come. Way to go Wawa. Maybe the others will develop the good business sense to follow suit.

[ad_2]

Source by Pamela D. Ellis

Rain-X Vs Bosch Wiper Blades

[ad_1]

Talking about windshield wipers and comparing them may seem boring, that is, until that unexpected winter storm comes along while driving alone on a curvy highway. Sometimes we get so caught up with the major things going on with our cars that we forget about the little things.

Rain-X and Bosch are the number one and number two windshield wipers sold on the market. Although they both may look the same, the two companies manufacture distinct products that may interest consumers.

Traditional Wiper Blades

A traditional blade has plastic or metal brackets connecting the rubber part of the blade to the vehicle’s wiper arm. The problem is that snow and ice usually build up on these parts, reducing the blade’s wiping efficiency. Older cars use these traditional wipers and both Bosh and Rain X still produce them.

Bracketless Blades

Both companies manufacture bracketless wiper blades (beam blades). Bracketless blades have no joints or hinges, which prevents snow and ice from collecting on the blade. They are sleek in style. Bosch and Rain X design their bracketless blades to resist heavy rain, snow and ice through a beading process, which improves the driver’s visibility during heavy storms. There is also a wind spoiler on both Bosch’s and Rain X’s bracketless products that help blades cling to windshields better and reduce wiper noises.

Okay, now let’s compare Bosch and Rain X!

Rain X Latitude and Repel Blades (Bracketless)

Rain X markets their next-generation Latitude and Repel bracketless wiper blades by claiming they are easy to install, they give drivers a high-performance wipe and their frame is ice resistant. Latitudes and Repels are graphite-coated wipers with a uniform pressure design. These blades fit all vehicles and are now number one in the wiper blade market. Rain X places a wind spoiler on them to reduce wiper noise.

There is only one difference between Latitude and Repel blades. Repel blades come with Rain X’s patented water beading technology, which is a chemical treatment that is placed on the windshield during installation and activates when using the wiper in wet weather.

Rain X Bracket Blades

Rain X adds galvanized steel to their Weatherbeater bracket wiper blades from to prevent rusting. The experts at Rain X claim that the Weatherbeater is “Consumer Rated best in wet weather driving visibility.”

Bosch Evolution (Bracketless)

Bosch has made wiper blades for over 75 years. Their top of the line wiper blade, Evolution, is a bracketless blade made with a special blend of steel and graphite. Bosch puts two steel tension springs on the Evolution used for hugging a vehicle’s windshield. This wiper has a multi-functioning aerodynamic wind spoiler that blocks snow and ice for reaching the wiper’s tensions springs and uses outside air to push the blade closer to the windshield.

Bosch DirectConnect Wiper Blades

This precision cut blade uses natural rubber, and it has an aerodynamic steel frame that Bosch coats with zinc primer to resist rusting. Consumers install the blade using Bosch’s trademark DirectConnect feature that gives them a one-step process when exchanging the blades on their vehicles.

Bosch MicroEdge Wiper Blades

MicroEdge has all the features of the DirectConnect and includes fully enclosed tension springs for better weather protection. The blade also incorporates Bosch’s trademark Quiet-Glide technology, which reduces the blade’s noise when in use.

Bosch Excel+ Wiper Blades

This blade has all the features of the MicroEdge and includes a dual rubber compound on the blade for harder wiping. The wiper also lasts twice as long as Bosch’s other bracket blades.

Bosch ICON Wiper Blades

This blade has all the features of the Excel+ and includes a pre-installed weather shield connector that protects wiper arms from rusting.

[ad_2]

Source by Trey Dawson

Tips For Getting Your Driver’s License – How to Prepare For the Test Mentally and Emotionally

[ad_1]

Everybody wants to pass their driver’s exam on the first attempt, but not everyone is able to. It doesn’t involve luck, either; whether you pass or not depends on how prepared you are and how much you learn beforehand. You need to pass both the written and road exams in order to get your license. The first is easier than the latter, so you need to study and practice extra hard in order to pass the road test.

So, how can you prepare yourself? The most obvious solution is to practice driving every single day. However, you can also learn some secrets, such as the things the examiner will be watching for. There are a lot of resources available on the internet filled with driving test secrets and tips that you’ll need to know in order to pass easily. Your DMV handbook that you have only offers some information. The test will require a lot more knowledge.

All the additional resources you’ll need for passing can be found online, including secrets, tips, videos, simulation software, and so forth. There are also practice tests you can take. They’re not only helpful for passing the written exam, but the road test as well. This is because some of the questions pertain to the things you should and shouldn’t do when taking road exam.

Even if you know everything, you still need to prepare you emotionally for the road test. For some, nervousness is the main contributing factor to whether they fail or pass. As such, you need to take things easy to night and morning before the test. Make sure you study well beforehand and don’t try cramming anything in your mind the last night. Eat breakfast, even if you don’t feel like doing so. It’ll provide you with the energy you need to help fight anxiety. Being well prepared, rested, and fed are the keys to passing your driving test and getting your driver’s license.

[ad_2]

Source by Nadav Snir

Buying Bulk Oil for a Mobile Oil Change Business

[ad_1]

If you own a mobile oil change business and you have at least 100 monthly customers or 300 customers total you may wish to consider buying bulk oil to save costs. Oil is a large cost in the mobile oil change business, although not as much as labor. But any savings you get means more profit for your small business.

As the Founder of the Oil Change Guys, let me share some secrets with you. You see suppliers for bulk are usually regional and sometimes for best service and price you may find it is more a matter of the area rather than the brand. Although for customers it is more about brand. Some larger fleet customers will specify brand and you want to make sure you can oblige otherwise your competitor gets the account instead of you.

We have always found that a proper deal with a local regional supplier can in fact be significant, even to the point where the regional Oil Company reps pay you a visit and see what they can do to help you. Including things such as no-interest loans and/or financing deals based on purchases or guarantees of purchases. This can assist you with expansion dollars to take on larger local and regional accounts and expand your business, buy new units or buy out a pesky competitor, which can add accounts without long travel times.

To find a bulk oil supplier you will probably need to check around. Let’s say you are in OH for instance. This is a good state for jobbers and suppliers, which means there are some really good choices and a little bit of competition for you to get better services, extras and a lower price. Of course too across the River in KY you will find a support structure available through Valvoline, although they might also consider you competition to their own in-house mobile oil change units. They do have mobile oil change company software.

Of course if you are doing fleets and intend to do more you may not wish to put all your eggs in one basket as some larger fleets prefer Chevron which has a huge following and others will only use Shell Rotella; http://www.rotella.com/ One good place to check to see which jobbers are in your area servicing oil needs is to check with the local School District, why not check with the Superintendent of Transportation, where do they buy

their bulk oil for the buses? That might give you a good lead?

Indeed it pays to shop around when looking for a jobber of bulk oil and it further makes sense to use a local supplier as they may end up referring business to you, because they know you will be using their products. So think on this, as you supplier is part of your business team, all the way around it. They know it and you should know it too.

[ad_2]

Source by Lance Winslow

Dynamometer History – A Timeline of Innovation

[ad_1]

Dynamometers have been a part of performance measurement since the days when the presence of horsepower was usually accompanied by four hooves and a tail. This versatile tool is applied around the world, as companies like Taylor Dynamometer build on past innovations with new breakthroughs in data gathering and system control technology.

  • 1828 Gaspard de Prony invented the de Prony Brake, one of the earliest dynamometers
  • 1838 Charles Babbage, known to historians as the Father of the Computer, introduces a dynamometer car to measure the pulling power of English railroad locomotives
  • 1877 William Froude of Great Britain invents the first hydraulic dynamometer, with the first commercial models produced in 1881
  • 1921 Professor E.V. Collins of Iowa State College develops a draft horse dynamometer, used to measure a horse’s capability to pull the era’s heavy metal farm implements
  • 1930 Using designs pioneered through a collaboration with Rudolph Diesel, John Taylor forms the Taylor Dynamometer and Machine Company to produce engine dynamometers
  • 1931 Martin and Anthony Winther introduce the first eddy current dynamometer

Throughout the past seven decades of continued dynamometer development, Taylor has maintained its status as a leader in advancing power measurement technology. Contact us to learn about the latest developments in dynamometers and engine diagnostics, or to inquire about a specific dyno product or application.

How Dynamometers Work

All dynamometers perform the same essential function, measuring the torque, rotational speed and power output of a combustion engine, electric motor or other power source. While the outcome is the same, many technologies are used to achieve the desired result.

Two Main Types

Most dynamometers can be placed within two distinct categories. Engine dynamometers are designed for coupling directly to the driveshaft of an engine under test, and chassis dynamometers measure the power output of a drive train by using rollers turned by the tires of a vehicle under test. In addition to the two traditional types, Taylor offers a line of portable dynamometers that attach directly to the flywheel of an engine. This allows accurate measurement of engine output without removal of an engine from its drive train.

A Variety of Designs

The work of handling and measuring input power is performed by instruments with a variety of different designs:

o Eddy current dynamometers present a measurable resistant force to engines under test by harnessing the magnetic flux between fixed and rotating electromagnets spun by the engine under test.

o A variant of the eddy current design, powder dynamometers create flux through the application of a fine magnetic powder between the rotor and coil

o Electric motor/generator types are a variation on the adjustable speed drive, using solid state components rather than the physical relationship between electromagnets to create measurable power transfer

o Fan, hydraulic and water brakes use air, water or hydraulic fluid to deliver physical resistance to the power applied by an engine or motor under test. The amount of resulting force absorbed by the fluid is measured to provide an indication of the power applied to the system

The best resource for details on dynamometer function and application is a Taylor Dynamometer application specialist. Contact us for full details on putting the latest in dynamometer technology to work in your application.

Eddy Current Dynamometer History

The story of the eddy current dynamometer is a tale of two Danish boys from Wisconsin, growing up in a time when innovations required an inquiring mind and a machine shop rather than a supercomputer and a doctoral degree. Martin Phillip Winther arrived at Ellis Island, New York in 1892 from his native Denmark. The family ultimately settled in Kenosha Wisconsin, where Martin and his American-born brother Anthony began their working lives as laborers at the Jeffry Company, makers of the Rambler automobile. At Jeffry, the brothers were involved in the engineering of a four-wheel-drive truck, which led them to break away and found the Winther Motor and Truck Company in 1917. While Winther Motor and Truck made several types of motor vehicles (including light trucks, fire engines and a sporty automobile) the firm’s chief product was innovation. Beginning around 1920, Martin and Anthony Winther were granted patents for almost 300 mechanical devices. These included the first successful air conditioning system for Pullman railroad cars, a four-wheel-drive post hole digger for AT&T, the first induction coupling, a magnetic clutch, a cycle-car, variable-speed transmission gears, as well as a giant press drive, brakes and couplings for the oil field industry.

Although prolific, only one of the Winther brothers’ inventions proved to have lasting impact. They are chiefly known for the invention of the eddy current dynamometer, a type of high speed, high power dynamometer capable of far surpassing the products then available in terms of power handling capability. The eddy current dyno was able to turn fast enough to test the turbine engines used in aircraft, wind tunnels and high speed automobiles of the day. The eddy current dynamometer was the chief product of the Dynamatic Corporation, founded by the Winthers in 1932. The firm was successful for many years both before and after the brothers sold their interest to Eaton Corporation in 1946. Variations on the eddy current design still serve as the basis for dynamometers today. The designs continued use is a testament to the ingenuity of two men who never rose above the eighth grade in formal education, yet parlayed their considerable on-the-job insight into a lasting legacy of technical achievement.

[ad_2]

Source by Lauren Peters