3 Weird Screwdrivers and Their Uses

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I am sure that everyone has used a Phillips or flathead screwdriver at some point. They are very handy tools and are essential for taking apart various things around the house.

What you might not be aware of is that there are many other kinds of screwdrivers that might be handy to have in certain situations. We have all come across a weirdly shaped head of a screw and it can be frustrating.

I am going to share three types of screwdrivers that aren’t as common that you might be interested in having around.

Now let’s look at these three unusual screwdrivers.

1. First we are going to take a look at a torx screwdriver.

This is that annoying six pointed star shape that you run across every so often. It looks pretty much just like a Phillips screwdriver except the head on the torx screwdriver is a six pointed star shape.

Torx screws are commonly used to put together computers. So, to take apart a computer, you will probably need to have a torx screwdriver. Another thing that uses a lot of torx screws is a car. If you do any work on cars, chances are you will end up needing a torx screwdriver.

2. The second screwdriver in this list is the Robertson screwdriver.

It is named after its inventor P.L. Robertson. This type of screwdriver is used to drive and loosen screws with a square head. It is actually a popular screw in Canada but it is not very common in the United States.

This type of screw is used for many things. Some of the things it is used for include cabinets, decks, vinyl windows, vinyl doors, and many things made of sheet metal.

Here is a fun fact about this screwdriver. When Harrison Ford was first manufacturing cars he wanted to use this screw on his assembly line. However, he wasn’t able to get a licensing agreement so he started using Philips screws instead.

3. The last screwdriver we will look at is the tri wing screwdriver.

Just like the other screwdrivers, this type is much like the Phillips only the head is a Y-shape instead of an X-shape.

This is a very common type of screw when it comes to electronics. In fact, I am willing to bet that you can’t take apart 90% of electronics without using a screwdriver with a tri-wing head. This is very handy to have around so you can fix some of your electronics yourself.

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Source by Taylor Tyger

Volumetric Efficiency of a Rotary Engine Explained

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According to Auto-Ware.com, volumetric efficiency is:

…used to describe the amount of fuel/air in the cylinder in relation to regular atmospheric air. If the cylinder is filled with fuel/air at atmospheric pressure, then the engine is said to have 100% volumetric efficiency. On the other hand, super chargers and turbo chargers increase the pressure entering the cylinder, giving the engine a volumetric efficiency greater than 100%. However, if the cylinder is pulling in a vacuum, then the engine has less than 100% volumetric efficiency. Normally aspirated engines typically run anywhere between 80% and 100% VE. So now, when you read that a certain manifold and cam combination tested out to have a 95% VE, you will know that the higher the number, the more power the engine can produce.

Characteristics of a rotary engine compared to a 4 stroke piston engine:

A rotary engine’s rotor completes one stroke for every 270º of crank rotation:

  • Intake 270º of crank rotation.
  • Compression 540º of crank rotation.
  • Combustion 810º of crank rotation.
  • Exhaust 1080º of crank rotation.

In other words, it takes a rotary engine 1080º of crankshaft rotation to complete an intake, compression, combustion & exhaust cycle. Or 3 crankshaft rotations per cycle.

A piston completes one stroke every 180º of crank rotation:

  • Intake 180º of crank rotation.
  • Compression 360º of crank rotation.
  • Combustion 540º of crank rotation.
  • Exhaust 720º of crank rotation.

A piston engine requires 720º of crankshaft rotation to complete a cycle. In other words, 2 complete revolutions of the crankshaft.

A rotor rotates @ 1/3 of the rate of the crankshaft. In other words, for every 1 revolution of a rotor, the crankshaft has done 3 revolutions. For example when the tachometer on a vehicle indicates 9000rpms, one rotor is turning at 3000rpms.

On two rotor engines, the front & rear rotors are offset 180º from each other. A rotation of 360º of the crankshaft will bring the 2 rotors through the combustion stroke. Since each combustion chamber is -in the case of a 13B- 654cc, every 360º of crankshaft rotation will displace a total of 1308cc.

In order to interpolate the cycles and volume displaced by a rotary engine vs. a 4 piston engine, we can use the following logic:

  • A piston engine takes 720º of crank rotation to complete a cycle.
  • In a rotary engine, 720º will produce 4 combustion strokes:
  1. 360º of crank rotation => 2 combustion strokes.
  2. 720º = 360º x 2
  3. 720º of crank rotation => 4 combustion strokes.
  4. 4 strokes = 654cc x 4
  5. 4 strokes = 2616cc

For simplicity reasons, we can stipulate that a 1.3L, two rotor rotary engine is similar to a 2.6L 4 piston, 4 stroke piston engine. It may not be academically correct, but it is a relatively simple way of visualizing how the rest of this write up and the formulas that are normally applied to piston engines can be applied to a rotary engine.

Furthermore, applying the same calculations utilized to determine Volumetric Efficiency (VE) on a piston engine, but for a rotary engine will yield optimistic results. If we were to consider the rotary engine, a 4 stroke engine with a displacement of 1.3L, the results would render a VE of over 100% in more than one instance, which is very unrealistic.

Did I make any sense? Mmm maybe not but, try to follow the next steps as I try to make sense out of what I have gathered so far.

A little experiment…

Well, today I finally gave up and decided to do a little experiment that I found while searching for an effective method to calculate Volumetric Efficiency on a vehicle without having to yank the engine from the car. I came across the following experiment: Calculating your cars volumetric efficiency

I will assume that you are either too lazy or tired to follow the link, so I will explain a bit on what does the experiment entail.

The experience requires the following: (1)vehicle with an engine; (1)OBD-II Scan Tool; (1)stock air intake with a Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) in stock trim -according to the author, a slight variance from factory stock, such as removing the screen or repositioning the sensor will give the experiment little value- (1)stretch of private, safe, deserted road.

Once you’ve acquired all those items the procedure is rather painless. Attach the scan tool to the vehicle and make sure it can report the following things: Engine RPM, Intake Air Temperature & Air Flow. Using the deserted stretch of private road, run the vehicle from a low engine rpm (2500rpm) @ WOT to redline (or as far as you want your sample to go..) while recording Intake Air Temperature (IAT), Engine Speed (RPM) & Intake Mass Air Flow (IMAF).

Once you have your data logged, re-read the experiment from the link provided and start crunching numbers! Its principle seems straight forward: based on the calculated theoretical volumetric air flow for your engine (a Renesis in this case), and the data you logged, you can approximate the actual VE of your particular engine. I will provide the formulas I used at the end of this article. For now, let’s take a look at this chart [http://www.myrotarycar.com/mazdarx8/images/13B.MSP.Volumetric.Efficiency.020205.a.gif].

Theoretical Volumetric Air Flow was calculated assuming that a 13B MSP rotary engine has similar displacement in 720º of crankshaft rotation as a 2.6 Liter, 4 stroke piston engine. Notice how VE climbs as Engine Speed increases, until it reaches 5500rpms. This is were the engine is rated to produce peak torque, therefore its safe to assume that VE will peak at or nearby 5500rpms. Furthermore, you can safely assume that Volumetric Efficiency plotted against engine speed will mimic the shape and characteristics of the torque curve produced by the engine.

Note that the plotted VE is somewhat linear: starts @ 80% and climbs its way to a tad over 100%. If this experiment’s results could be validated and the parameters I used were accurate, it would signify that the Renesis engine -on my car at least- is in fact very efficient for a normally aspirated internal combustion powerplant -VE definition above.

Calculating Volumetric Efficiency (VE) for the Renesis (13B MSP) rotary engine:

We will use the following values obtained during our data log:

Data:

Intake Air Temperature (IAT) = 82ºF

Engine Speed (RPM) = 8561rpm

AirFlow (MAF) = 27.3lb/minute

THEORETICAL AIRFLOW CALCULATION:

Formula:

[(ED) x (rpm) x (VE)] / [(ES) x (C)] = TAF

Variables:

ED = Engine Displacement [in³]

rpm = Engine Speed [RPMs]

VE = Volumetric Efficiency [%]

ES = Engine Stroke Coefficient [#]

C = Conversion coefficient from in³ to ft³

TAF = Theoretical Air Flow [ft³]

Solving:

[(159.64in³) x (8561rpm) x (1)] / [(2) x (1728 in³/ft³)] = TAF

TAF = 395.42ft³

Values:

ED = 2.6 Liters (1308cc x 2) >> 159.64in³

rpm = I chose 8561rpm arbitrarily.

VE = Since this corresponds to Theoretical VE, we assume VE = 100% (1)

ES = Since we simplify a 13B engine to a 4 stroke piston engine -thus 2.6L- we use a coefficient of 2.

C = 1728in³/ft³

AIR DENSITY & TEMPERATURE CALCULATION:

Formula:

[(t1) / (t2)] = [(d2) / (d1)]

Variables:

t1 = Temperature of air for a known density [ºR]

t2 = Temperature of the intake air measured by the IAT sensor [ºR]

d1 = Density of air for a known temperature [lb/ft³]

d2 = Density of the intake air [lb/ft³]

Solving for [d2]:

[(t1) / (t2)] x (d1) = (d2)

[(491.67ºR) / (541.67ºR)] x (0.0808lb/ft³) = d2

d2 = 0.073341lb/ft³

Values:

t1 = 32ºF >> 491.67ºR

t2 = 82ºF >> 541.67ºR

d1 = 0.0808lb/ft³

VOLUMETRIC FLOW RATE CALCULATION:

Formula:

[(MF) / (d2)] = AVF

Variables:

MF = Mass Flow rate taken from CANScan [lb/minute]

d2 = Density of the intake air [lb/ft³]

AVF = Actual Volumetric Flowrate [ft³/minute]

Solving:

[(27.3lb/minute) / (0.073341lb/ft³)] = AVF

AVF = 372.233ft³/minute

Values:

MF = 27.3lb/minute

d2 = 0.073341lb/ft³

VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY CALCULATION:

Formula:

[(AVF) / (TAF)] = VE

Variables:

AVF = Actual Volumetric Flow rate [ft³/minute]

TAF = Theoretical Air Flow rate [ft³/minute]

VE = Volumetric Efficiency [%]

Solving:

[(372.233ft³/minute) / (395.42ft³/minute)] = AVF

AVF = 0.94 >> 94%

Values:

AVF = 372.233ft³/minute

TAF = 395.42ft³/minute

Is this remotely close to accurate? I truly don’t know! I simply took the time to do a little research through different channels & gathered information. If you have any comments, or would like to make any suggestions or correct aything, please by all means, contact me!

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Source by Miguel P

Tips for Cleaning Rexine Made Products

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Rexine can very easily be defined as a registered trademark of any artificial leather that is produced by the United Kingdom. It is basically made of a cloth that is surfaced with the help of a mixture comprised of cellulose nitrate. Other major components are pigment, camphor oil and alcohol. This is also used as a material for the purpose of bookbinding as well as upholstery covering. Rexine is also used widely used for the purpose of upholstering and trimming all the interiors of motor vehicles that have continuously been produced by the British car manufacturers. Apart from motor vehicles, they are also used for railway carriages.

Artificial leather

Rexine is described as a brand of an artificial leather. It is particularly very durable which means that it is also a high- end product. This durability has ended up satisfying millions of users around the globe. You can also be one of these customers. There is a need of materials made with Rexine because of the high level of sophistication and comfort that they offer. Below are a few tips that you can follow while cleaning Rexine.

1. Don’t overdo it

This is the secret to cleaning cloth materials. You never have to overdo the cleaning because it can seriously damage the product. A minimum amount of cleaning can also go a long way.

2. Use appropriate agents and tools

Not every tool or agent will be good enough to clean the material appropriately. You need to make sure that the tools you use are appropriate enough. There should be no room for error as far as these tools are concerned.

3. Don’t clean often

Yes, Rexine materials do not require cleaning regularly. If you do it seldom, it is more than enough. This is the best thing that Rexine products and materials possess. They are easy to manage and use which means that are low- maintenance.

4. Don’t damage the leather

As you know that the leather is artificial. This means that you must take adequate care of this leather. Even a slight damage can cause problems in the long run.

If the above tips are followed without fail, you will be able to safeguard Rexine for a long period of time. This is exactly we require as users or customers and this is exactly what you will be able to get in the long run. It is one of the important things to remember.

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Source by Shilpi Gupta

Tobi Steamer – Use Steam and Take Advantage of Its Benefits

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When you have an important appointment on hand that may involve entering into deals with partners, half of you is decided on what you wear and how neatly you should wear it. When you are busy or staring close at the deadline, you want all your time to yourself to focus on getting the job done; you don’t want to waste time on rather trivial matters such as the wrinkles on your suit. In this case, you prefer to have on hand a ready, excellent, and permanent solution to banishing the wrinkles on your clothing to make your suit crisp, fresh, and neat so that you will always look your best in no time and always ready to take on the world.

The Innovative Technology of Tobi Steamer

If we iron our clothes the old-fashioned way, we’d have noticed that even after many pressings and even at high settings, we still fail in our effort to banish wrinkles on our clothes. As such, we repeat the process over and over, sometimes dashing fabric conditioner on our clothes in yet another attempt to eradicate wrinkles-mindful that the process is time consuming and costly too as it raises our electricity bills a tad higher. If you are in this situation and have despaired many times, you need to cheer up at this piece of good news. Our clothes’ wrinkle-removal problems are now over with the introduction of the new Tobi Steamer.

The Benefits of Using Tobi Steamer

Tobi is the newest innovation in wrinkle removal methods. Because this steamer works by using a nozzle of steam to soften the fabric-a process radically different from electric ironing or dry ironing-the process is about 5 times faster than the usual ironing methods. Moreover, steam is such a proven way to remove the wrinkles on your clothes. And with the help of the steam nozzle, Tobi Steamer allows you to work on the wrinkles even on hard-to-reach areas. Furthermore, you won’t be needing an ironing board anymore: all you need to do is hang your clothes and watch as the steam does its magic. Aside from these, this friendly device comes with a bunch of other benefits:

o Tobi Steamer is portable. You can use the steamer anywhere and anytime you want. This is because using the steamer does not require an ironing board.

o Fast and easy to use. Steam is proven to be at least 5x faster than dry ironing. With that time you save, think as well of the savings you get on your electric bill. Moreover, Tobi Steamer is easy to use. Just direct the steam nozzle to the wrinkled areas and the wrinkles should be gone in time at all.

o Gentle on fabric. This steamer is guaranteed not to damage your fabric-even the most sensitive ones. You need not fear that the garment may be burned due to wrong heat settings such as when your are using an electric iron.

o Tobi removes odor. Aside from eradicating wrinkles, Tobi Steamer also helps remove unpleasant odors present on your fabric.

o It is safe to use. With this household help, you need not fear that you will get burned as compared to using electric iron when you are always prone to accidentally touch its hot plates.

o Tobi is versatile. Aside from clothing, Tobi Steamer can also be used on sofas, car seats, and bed covers, just to name a few.

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Source by Christopher Schwebius

Car Bulbs: 5 Interesting Facts You Need To Know About LED Car Bulbs

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If you’re looking for a cost-effective and easy way to customize your car, forget installing time-consuming under-car lighting or an ear drum-shattering sound system and don’t waste your money on an expensive paint job – see the light with LED car bulbs instead.

From headlights and tail lights to indicator/turn lights and the humble dashboard light, LED bulbs can be used all over your vehicle, making this THE go-to choice if you’re looking for a simple way to upgrade your car.

So, how do LED lights work? Well, they’re not that different to standard light bulbs; the main difference is they don’t contain a filament. An LED bulb produces light by using the electricity’s movement along its semiconductor. This creates electromagnetic radiation – some of which takes the form of visible light.

That’s the science bit over, what you really want to know is why you should change to LED, right? Well, put simply, LED car bulbs are more vivid, consume less energy, are longer lasting, have a faster response time and just, well, they just look cooler than standard car lights.

The only real drawback of LED is that is isn’t quite as bright as bulbs with a filament, but you will find that the colour is more intense.

Let’s breakdown the facts:

1) LED is more energy efficient than regular lighting which saves you running costs.

2) But it’s not all about the money – LED bulbs have a faster on/off response time which means your visibility to other road users is immediate the moment you switch your lights on.

3) With a massively long lifespan of around 50,000 hours LED car bulbs simply outperform other bulbs in terms of endurance.

4) Say goodbye to boring white! LED comes in a wide range of rainbow colours from red, white and blue through to yellow, orange, green and even hot pink, so if you want to turn the inside of your car into a technicolour light show, then go for it!

5) The range of LED bulbs out there is huge. You can literally upgrade any of your car, van or truck’s lights. Don’t just go for the headlights – your brake and tail lights, indicator/turn lights, fog lights, interior and dashboard lights and side lights can all have a piece of the action too.

Swapping your existing car bulbs for LED bulbs makes your car stand out amongst those road users who haven’t yet seen the light and are still using standard bulbs, so whether you’re after a Barbie-pink dashboard or you want vivid white headlights, there’s a huge range of cars LED lights on the internet meaning you’re sure to find the lights you’re looking for.

Upgrade to LED car bulbs today and you’ll be saving costs, increasing your safety, adding value to your vehicle and making your car stand out from the crowd – all for a minimum of time, money and effort.

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Source by Rachel Ann Zhang

Plastic Cellphone Accessory Markups Create Drastic Profits

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For a brief period in my younger days I worked temporarily for an importer of cheap Chinese goods. Indeed, I was completely amazed at the markup of some of the plastic things we import, so cheap in fact, I used to pull them apart just to look at what was inside, after all, I could buy some of these items for around a dollar. I remember pulling apart a little cigarette adapter for a cell phone. I was blown away how cheaply it was made, yet how good it looked on the outside. It worked, worked well, but there was nothing to it.

Buy 1,000 at a time and your price was $.89 and if you buy 100 still only $1.19 and yet, they sold retail for about $15.99 as an impulse item – talk about a mark-up, wow. Okay so, let’s talk shall we?

While I was in the car wash business we used to have such items in the lobby of the car wash for business folks who needed them. At that time cellphones were new and the minutes were costly, not like today, thus, only business people really had them, as they could justify the cost, and yet, they still made their phone calls as brief as possible, and some had cellular phone bills of well over $800 per month.

Today, the quality of these small accessories hasn’t gone up much, although I’m sure they are a little better due to rules and regulations and UL ratings. The price too isn’t very much more than they were back then. The markups are still unbelievable, so there is plenty of money available in that deal. In fact if you offered a small business owner who was selling a cell phone accessory device a mere five dollars, their markup would still be 100%, and that is paying one-third the normal price. So even with all the inflation over the years, and the loss of the value of the dollar, folks that sell plastic cell phone accessories still have incredible markups that truly create intense profits.

It is amazing how valuable information is in this day and age – those that know where to get boxes of these types of items can make a killing, and all those little cell phone stores that can sign you up for service with one of the larger carriers, you wouldn’t believe how much money they make on all those accessories, or how much in bonus they’re willing to pay the sales people were able to get you to buy these items on impulse. Please consider all this and think on it.

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Source by Lance Winslow

Electronics Gadgets – 13-Plus Disclaimers and Disclaimer Templates to Keep You Out of Trouble

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Selling electronic gadgets can be a tricky business, because the products tend to be both physically fragile and can be prone to malfunction. One way to protect yourself is by using disclaimers.

Article Ref: S01GDR

Customers could begin returning defective gadgets in large numbers – disclaimers can protect you from being liable for a replacement or refund.

You must also look at packaging and your transit company’s shipping warranties, as deficient products and services in this regard can lead to damaged goods reaching the customer.

Some issues that may require disclaimers include:

* Laws in different countries

* Electronic standards used in different countries,

* Different operational methods

* The difficulty of installation

* Potential health hazards

A Typical Disclaimer

Usually labelled as Terms & Conditions, Important Terms, Disclaimers, Warranty and Exchange Information, or something similar. It’s usual to use several disclaimers to cover as many of your requirements as possible:

* Condition of the item being sold. Condition of the packaging.

* Shipment restrictions – which countries will you ship to? Is there a shipping warranty?

* Recommendations for restrictions on the products use – not to be used around pets or by small children, for example.

* Accepted payment methods.

* Availability of refunds, exchanges and warranties.

* Legal restrictions on the products use.

Disclaimer Examples

The following are somewhat random examples of disclaimers, all taken from eBay. Obviously, you’ll have to tailor each disclaimer to each product and your own shipping/payment/warranty/restriction needs.

** GSM Cell phones:

Online electronics gadgets sellers often need to add disclaimer notices to their cell phones because not all GSM cell phone network uses the same frequency.

With the traditional 2G and 2.5G networks there were four main frequencies: 850MHz, 900MHz, 1800MHz and 1900MHz.

Phones that used 900MHz, and 1800MHz bands traditionally worked in most countries (with the exception of the US, North America and US territories) while 850MHz and 1900MHz phones traditionally worked in the US, North America and US territories.

The 3G system has further compounded matters by working on a different frequency and not being compatible with some phones being produced now.

A good disclaimer for GSM cell phones would read as follows:

————————————————————————————————————

NOTE: This product is compatible with GSM at the frequencies of 900MHz, 1800MHz. This cellphone will not work in North America.

————————————————————————————————————

** Radar Scanners:

While radar scanners are popular, it is illegal to buy, or use them.

This is largely because their main purpose is to identify speed cameras or police officers to avoid speeding tickets. This essentially explains both its illegality and its popularity.

To cover yourself include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

NOTE: Certain countries prevent the use and ownership of these devices. You are solely responsible for finding out whether this product is legal to import and/or use in your country. We will send you the products you order and cannot accept any liability for customs issues or any implications of your ownership or usage of this device.

————————————————————————————————————

** Ni-Cad Batteries:

Ni-Cad batteries have a memory, as a result they work better and have a longer lifespan if they are charged a certain way when they are first used.

As a result this would be a good disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

NOTE: Ni-Cad batteries give their best performance if fully un-charged and charged three times after purchase.

————————————————————————————————————

** Cell Phone/Wi-Fi/radio signal blockers:

Like radar detectors these items are not exactly legal in all situations. However, this doesn’t stop them being popular to certain people.

This is a suitable disclaimer to use with blockers:

————————————————————————————————————

These devices may not be permissible to import into certain countries due to licensing of broadcast signals or other restrictions. Please check your country’s telecommunications regulations before placing your order.

————————————————————————————————————

** Thermometers:

You’re not a health professional. The chances are the people buying these electronic gadgets from you won’t be either.

This won’t stop them blaming you if a loved one became seriously ill if they were ‘misdiagnosed’ because of a reading from a thermometer they brought from you.

To cover yourself include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

Note: This device is meant for personal uses only, please refer to a physician or health professional.

————————————————————————————————————

** Breathalyzers:

We all know why people buy breathalyzers. It’s for them to check whether or not they are able to drive home, or whether they will need to catch a cab.

As a result, if they fly too close to the wind and get caught they’re going to try to use YOUR device in their defense.

This is a suitable disclaimer to use in this case:

————————————————————————————————————

Note: This is a reference tool only and can not be used as a legal defense.

————————————————————————————————————

** GPS Devices:

The type of disclaimers you need on GPS devices depend on the type of devices you are carrying and the level of support you are willing to give to customers.

If you are dealing with GPS receivers for example and are sourcing from a factory which offers GPS ready devices that don’t come with the necessary maps then you will need to let customers know that they will need to supply their own maps.

It is worth noting that very few vendors from China actually supply the genuine GPS map software and it may be worth getting a test order of a GPS receiver sent to yourself to make sure you’re not selling GPS devices with software that is cracked or a sample.

To cover yourself include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

The unit includes evaluation GPS software only. We recommend purchasing a GPS software package from your home country that best covers your region of the world.

————————————————————————————————————

** GPS Trackers

A number of problems can arise from the sale of GPS trackers. If the tracker is small they can be used for nefarious purposes (maliciously keeping track of family members and loved ones for example). A customer may also expect to see GPS software when none is included.

As a result, you may want to include one of the two disclaimers:

————————————————————————————————————

This model does not come with any GPS navigation map software

————————————————————————————————————

————————————————————————————————————

Seller takes no responsibility for harm resulting from misuse of this item

————————————————————————————————————

**Heart Rate Monitors:

You’re not a health professional. The chances are the people buying these electronic gadgets from you won’t be either.

This won’t stop them blaming you if a loved one became seriously ill if they were ‘misdiagnosed’ because of a reading from a thermometer they brought from you.

To cover yourself include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

Note: This device is meant for personal uses only, please refer to a physician or health professional.

————————————————————————————————————

** Car DVD Players:

If you have ever dealt with car stereos (or anything else to do with cars or electronics) you’ll know how complicated they can be.

You’ll also know that the average consumer loves to blame you for their goof-ups.

As a result it may be a good idea to include this disclaimer with any car DVD players you sell

————————————————————————————————————

For optimum performance we recommend that you have this car DVD unit installed by a professional.

————————————————————————————————————

** Spy Listening Devices:

While spy listening devices may seem cool it is illegal to use them in some locations and courts of law will not allow recordings from them to be used as evidence unless both parties taped have signed release forms.

To cover yourself include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

NOTE: Certain countries prevent the use and ownership of these devices. You are solely responsible for finding out whether this product is legal to import and/or use in your country. We will send you the products you order and cannot accept any liability for customs issues or any implications of your ownership or usage of this device.

————————————————————————————————————

** Fish Finders:

Fish are notoriously difficult to find. Even with a fish finder. As a result you will need to protect yourself in case somebody they complain that they haven’t been able to spot any fish.

To cover yourself include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

Seller takes no responsibility for environmental factors which may inhibit the performance of this device.

————————————————————————————————————

** Chargers:

Regardless of whether you are selling a back-up battery or a solar charger there are always issues surrounding the connection type the voltage and the specific capacity of devices it is compatible with.

As a result you will need to list all the relevant details that apply to the charger you are listing and include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

This charger is only compatible with devices with the specifications listed. Please pay careful attention to the listing.

————————————————————————————————————

** Spy Cameras with Audio:

While surveillance cameras are perfectly legal and respected cameras with audio devices are not.

To be used in a court of law both parties taped have signed release forms.

To cover yourself include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

NOTE: Certain countries prevent the use of recorded audio footage to be used as evidence in legal cases. You are solely responsible for learning and adhering to the standards of your country when using this product.

————————————————————————————————————

** Car Electronics:

Depending on the age of electronics used in the car a number of issues may arise.

Most of these issues surround the compatibility between the device you are listing and the car that the potential buyer wants to put them in to.

You may want to include the following disclaimer:

————————————————————————————————————

This device is only compatible with devices with the specifications listed. Please pay careful attention to the listing.

————————————————————————————————————

As I mentioned, these disclaimers are examples of what they should look like – you may want to write a disclaimer that suits your particular needs as a seller, taking into account the qualities of the product in question and both your location and the location of your customer.

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Source by Rose Li

The History of Automotive Repairs – Why We Need Trained Technicians in the Collision Repair Industry

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Vehicle History Overview

  • They don’t make them like they used to.

The First Cars

  • The first motor cars were nothing more than a buggy and engine (Generally repaired by blacksmiths and carpenters. These cars were very expensive, which only the wealthy could afford)
  • Model T was the first car mass production on an assembly line in 1908 (Ford’s Vision was to produce an affordable car the average person could purchase)
  • Model T’s came in black only to keep the costs down. (The price came down once the assembly line was streamlined, but in 1908, the cost for a Model T started at $825. By 1913 the cost of the car reduced to $550)

Cars in the 1960s

Cars were made the same basic way up through the 60s

  • Body Over Frame
  • Rear Wheel Drive (Same concept, but the cars were very big, bulky, and heavy)

Except people in the 60s wanted SPEED! They achieved this with Big Block Motors, which created a lot of Horsepower. (The Birth of Hotrods, Rat Fink, Flames, and Pin Striping).

Cars in the 1970s

  • The government place strict fuel economy and emissions control laws
  • Customers demanded cars with increased fuel economy
  • New laws and customer demands started the automotive explosion of engineering ideas and changes in the automotive industry

Changes to comply with Demands and Laws

  • Smaller bodied cars and smaller engines
  • Aerodynamics (Increase Fuel Mileage)
  • Lighter cars by using different materials and designs
  • More work-hardened areas created during formation of panel (Body Lines)
  • Safety

Construction of Interstate Highways + Higher Speed Limits + More High Performance Cars = Accidents and More

Deaths from Auto Accidents

Federal Laws were passed to regulate safety. These laws included:

  • Installation of seatbelts
  • Safety glass windshields
  • Head restraints
  • In 1979, the first driver side airbag was introduced
  • Airbags are mandatory in motor cars produced after 1990
  • Unibody Torque Boxes: Allow controlled twisting and crushing
  • Crush Zones: Made to collapse during collision (To act as an absorber, absorbing the impact)

Modern Day Cars

  • Carbon Fiber Parts
  • Aluminum Parts
  • More Plastic Parts
  • High Strength Steel
  • Boron Steel
  • Unibody Construction
  • Space Frame Construction
  • Computer
  • Hybrid Cars

Now they even have cars that will tell you when you’re lost, where to turn, Parallel Park for you.

Conclusion

While the modern day cars appear to be made cheap and unsafe, they are actually designed to crush or collapse, while transferring the energy around the stronger passenger compartment to protect the passengers from injury.

There is considerably more damage to modern day cars during a collision than the older vehicles, which gives the perception that “they don’t make them like they used to”. However, in reality the cars are taking the impact instead of the passengers.

The lesson was designed to give you a little history, but to also emphasize that just a hammer, dolly and a few wrenches are not going to repair today’s cars. We need highly trained collision repair and automotive technicians to repair today’s vehicles.

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Source by Donnie A Smith

Total Loss Vehicle Settlement – What Happens When Your Car Is Totaled

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In our last post I explained how your insurance company would likely determine if your vehicle was a total loss from a covered accident. Understanding how your company makes this determination is important, however, understanding how they will value your car is even more important.

Once your car is determined to be a complete loss, the process that follows can be confusing. I wanted to provide some insight, from an insurer’s perspective, that can help you get through the total loss process should you ever find yourself in that situation.

It is important to remember that, if your car is deemed a total loss, your carrier has a duty and obligation to pay you the ACV (Actual Cash Value) or fair market value for your vehicle. Understanding that, we want to be sure you are armed with solid & reliable information in the unfortunate event you find yourself in this situation.

The Value or ACV process:

The ACV or Actual Cash Value of your vehicle is a term that is meant to demonstrate & prove what the fair market value of your vehicle is on the date of the accident. Your carrier will have your car inspected, noting all options & features as well as estimating the condition of the vehicle prior to the accident. Below is a short list of some of the main variables involved when determining the value of your car:

  • Year, make & model
  • Features or upgrades on the car from the manufacturer
  • Is there aftermarket equipment on the car & if there is, does it add or detract from the market value
  • Condition rating: estimate of the condition of the vehicle prior to the accident
  • Mileage (this, as we all know, can have a substantial impact on value)

Your insurance carrier will then use a 3rd party, such as CCC, to secure a fair market value for your car. Here is a short list of things that a 3rd party will look at when estimating the value:

  • All of the vehicle details noted above
  • Your zip code, which tells them exactly where you live
  • Comps: most insurance companies will require at least 2 solid comparative vehicles

Note that where you live is important as vehicles can have different values based on where you live as the market (where you are) is what dictates what cars like yours would sell for at the time of the accident. Also note that the comps are how a price or value is determined as it is meant to convey what a vehicle like yours, same make/model/year, condition and features, would be worth in it’s pre-accident condition.

One question or issue that does come up at times is “there aren’t any vehicles exactly like mine where I live, now what?” In this scenario, most of the time the insurance company will then look for a vehicle that is a year newer than yours with similar features & in similar condition. It is usually not permitted to use an older vehicle as a comp in this case.

What if I don’t agree with the value?

This is most often one of the biggest challenges when trying to settle a total loss claim: I don’t agree with the valuation that my adjuster provided to me. It is ok, though, this happens frequently and if armed with good, accurate information, you can navigate your way through this. Here is how:

  • Request a copy of the valuation
  • Review the details and ensure it represents your vehicle: options, mileage, condition, etc.
  • If you feel the value is truly not accurate, do some research and find a few comps of your own, ensure they are accurate. Provide your supporting information to your carrier for consideration
  • If they don’t move, advise you are formally disputing the valuation.
  • Request that your insurance company issues payment for the “undisputed amount”
  • Secure your own independent valuation, your insurance company will get one of their own
  • The two of you will then come together and compare the valuations and reach a resolution

I know, you now have a few more questions, thought you might. Let’s address those:

  1. What do you mean by “undisputed amount?” You don’t want your claim halted and, if you have rental coverage and are in a rental car, most insurance companies will only extend rental for a few days after they have made an offer to you to settle your total loss. The undisputed amount example: Valuation comes in at $20,000 but feel your car has a market value of $24,000 but are not disputing it is worth at least the $20,000. So, you accept the $20,000 but continue with the process. This will not prevent you from collecting more money should it be supported but it does get you something right now.
  2. If you dispute the value and go down that path, you will have to, at your own cost, have an independent market valuation completed on your car. There are some great companies out there to help you, such as http://www.iada.org/.

I highly recommend that you work directly with your insurance company directly to resolve a dispute like this. Remember, this is a negotiation based on some subjective supporting evidence and some objective information as well, such as the make, model, year and features. The insurance carriers want to settle your claim and will, most of the time, be reasonable and work with you to settle your claim.

In addition, I strongly suggest you review your policy before going down the dispute path so you understand exactly what your policy states as it relates to this type of claim. All policies and companies have differences, some subtle and some not. Your policy will be the guiding rule over your claim so it is important to understand what it says and what your rights are.

You can also refer to your state’s Department of Insurance site to see if your state has specific rules and laws as it relates to the handling of a first party total loss claim.

So, in summary, hopefully now you have a better understanding of how a value is obtained, you also have an idea on what you can do if you happen to disagree with the value. Just remember to be sure you are able to support your dispute in value with solid information if you want your company to consider your position. And, recall, this IS a negotiation so be calm and deliberate with your argument and information. I can almost guarantee it will lead to a fair resolution of your total loss claim.

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Source by Marc R Berry

Why Won’t My Diesel Start?

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What It Takes To Make a Diesel Run

There are only three things that are needed to make a diesel run;.

(1) Heat from compression,

(2) Fuel at the Right time and pressure.

(3) Sufficient crank shaft speed to provide the compression. The engine must also have sufficient air.

A diesel in the purist form is a very simple engine.

What makes a diesel hard to start?

  • If the fuel is not injected into the cylinder at the correct time the engine will be very difficult to start. The fuel needs to be injected before the piston reaches top dead center to create a flame front in the cylinder. The timing is critical for correct engine operation.
  • If the fuel injection pressure is not sufficient the engine will be hard to start. Injection pressure is difficult to test and usually manifest it self in hard starting, lack of power and sometimes smoke from unburned fuel.
  • The engine must crank at sufficient speed to provide the necessary compression, heat in the cylinder to ignite the fuel. Many hard starting problems with diesel engines can be attributed to a poorly functioning starter.

How can I the do it yourselfer check some of these things?

If you own a diesel and are going to work on it, it might be worth while to invest in the tools to set the fuel injection timing. There are many methods of setting the timing of a diesel. Some older diesels use a drip tube. The V.W. diesels us a dial indicator for checking pump plunger travel on the IDI engines (Indirect Injection). Some of the Cummings diesels are timed in the same manner. Some of the new diesels are timed using a scan tool to inter face with the engine management computer.

If you are going to work on your diesel, buy a book, preferably the factory manual.

You can check to see if all fuel filters are clean.

You can check to see if your glow plugs are working. The best method that I have found to check glow plugs is to use a direct current (DC) amp clamp. This is a meter that clamps over a wire and read the amount of current flowing through it. Most glow plugs pull about 9 amps after the initial surge. You can get the correct figure from the manufactures technical data. DC amp clamps are a lot cheaper now than they were in the past. I bought the small hand held unit that our shop uses for Sears for under $50.00. If you use starting fluid in a diesel with glow plugs it nearly always burns out the glow plugs even if they are new ones.

The amp clamp that you bought to check your glow plugs is a good tool to check your starter. Measure the current draw of the starter and compare it to the manufacturers specifications. Any thing beyond these simple things will require specialized tools and knowledge.

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Source by Charles Evans