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You’re nearing the onramp. Suddenly, you notice a constriction in your chest. Driving up the ramp, you feel a rush of fear as adrenaline surges through you. It’s like being on a rollercoaster; the sweaty, dizzy feeling as the chain drags the coaster to the top of that first monster drop. Except being scared on a rollercoaster is kind of fun. Feeling scared when you’re accelerating, trying to merge safely into the steel river of traffic looming in front of you…NOT fun. Not fun at all.

If this sounds familiar, you’re not alone. You’re one of millions of people gripped by intense fear of driving on freeways, a type of driving phobia.

Wikipedia defines a phobia as “persistent fear of an object or situation in which the sufferer commits to great lengths in avoiding”. If you have driving phobia, it’s probably specific to only a few situations. You may have no problems most of the time, but certain settings trigger powerful sensations of anxiety, panic, and being trapped. Freeways are one of the most common trigger environments.

Breaking Down Freeway Fear: What Are You REALLY Afraid Of?

It’s likely you struggle with one or more of the following:

Merging. Merging into traffic at freeway speed is very stressful. Even “normal” (aka non-phobic) drivers find their hearts pounding a little. Merging can feel exposed and overwhelming. It feels unsafe because there’s too much happening too fast.

Lane changes. The combination of speed and traffic makes changing lanes difficult. Also, pushy drivers sometimes monopolize every extra inch of space, making lane changes even harder for less confrontational types. Lateral movement across lanes takes skill and a certain amount of aggression. This is tough with driving phobia.

Passing or overtaking. Going around other vehicles at high speed is nerve-racking because you’re so close to other large, moving objects. It’s especially bad passing trucks or other big vehicles. Passing feels exposed and claustrophobic too.

Feeling trapped. Driving phobia is a manifestation of agoraphobia, which “clusters” around social interactions where exit or escape is difficult. Like sitting in bumper to bumper traffic, or driving over a bridge where pulling over isn’t possible. Any experience of close quarters with other people and no “fast out” can trigger panic. Crowded freeways are a prime candidate.

One option, of course, is to just avoid freeways altogether. But what if you live in a densely populated area? Many people live in places where freeway driving is a fact of life. Some have reported driving an extra 2 hours a day to avoid them, but this is not a viable solution for most people.

So what can you do to overcome or reduce your fear of driving on freeways? Are there viable options out there?

5 Effective Treatment Options

Cognitive Behavioral Therapy (CBT). Generally considered the most effective for phobia, CBT helps you identify factors which contribute to your anxiety. It shows how your thoughts contribute to the problem, and how to change destructive thinking. It also helps reduce or stop unwanted, anxious behavior patterns.

Driver Training / Coaching. Perhaps your fear is due to feeling that you lack good driving skills. Whether you need to learn how to drive, or just want to brush up your abilities, a good defensive driving course can make you more confident behind the wheel.

Hypnotherapy. Common misconceptions about hypnosis are that you’re under someone’s “spell” and might be manipulated. This is mostly due to stage hypnosis that’s used for entertainment. A qualified hypnotherapist treats anxiety by inducing a relaxed state where you learn to change your internal reactions to fear triggers.

This also helps you control the physical reactions of anxiety like dizziness and hyperventilation by stimulating the parasympathetic response – your body’s built in stress reduction mechanism.

Self-Help. Many, MANY resources are available. Evaluate your options carefully here, and proceed with caution. If you’re brand-new to this world, you may want to start with professional therapy. It takes familiarity with effective treatment to accurately evaluate the quality of self-help resources. Not all are created equal, and not all have your best interests in mind.

Medication. Sometimes anxiety is so intense it must be chemically reduced before other options can be explored. Medication is not an effective long-term strategy for driving phobia. It should be combined with other methods for more successful recovery. Always seek medical advice from a qualified professional like a doctor or psychiatrist. NEVER buy anti-anxiety medication from potentially dangerous sources like so-called “generic drug” websites.

You don’t have to live like this. And you don’t have to continue avoiding freeways either. Your condition is highly treatable – it’s just a matter of finding the options that work best for you.

Next time your heart starts pounding as you approach an onramp, make a vow to get help for this crippling problem. When the day comes where you’re driving easily down a freeway, WITHOUT fear, you’ll be really glad you did.

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Source by Greg Weber

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If you have old aluminium windows that you want to either restore the existing colour or you wish to change the colour, then, you can rest easy. You’ve come to the right place.

The process of aluminium window painting can be broken down into a series of steps with two distinct stages. These are preparation and application. The inexperienced however, will try and skip on the preparation to the detriment of the look and durability of the finished product.

Preparation

The amount of preparation needed mainly depends on the type and condition of the original substrate. For example, if you have old powder coated painted aluminium windows that has chalky paint and rubs off against your fingers, then this will take a lot more preparation than newer powder coated surface that’s not chalking and is being painted for a colour change.

However, anodized aluminium windows will take a lot more preparation than all other substrates regardless of its substrate condition because, the surfaces needs a lot more mechanical abrasion to key the surface up enough to allow the paint to stick.

Protection of adjacent finished surfaces- Whenever you are painting isolated section, it is important that you protect adjacent finished surfaces. When painting the aluminium windows in your home or apartment, you’ll need to think about putting plastic drop sheets down, followed by canvas drop sheets. I suggest applying plastic film and 3M, which you can with a hand dispenser to protect the glass and the walls directly surrounding the window frame.

Cleaning – Make sure all surfaces are clean and free of dirt. Grime and grease are critical in the process of aluminium window painting. If surfaces are dirty then paint adhesion is reduced. Clean the frames on the outside with soapy water and a sponge. However, use a soap that is salt free such as truck wash. Wash off all excess soap with clean fresh water.

Then, alternately clean surfaces down both inside and out with solvent wash such as prepsol.

Use a scour to apply the solvent. The scour will clean and key the surface at the same time. It is important that you carry out a second solvent wash on dirty windows by applying solvent with a clean cloth then wiping off with another clean cloth.

Sanding the substrate – There is no easy way around this process. This can be difficult and monotonous especially getting into the tighter spots such as the upper channel because there is no mechanical sanding equipment that can make the job a lot quicker. Thus, doing the job manually by hand is hard and time consuming.

If you have powder coated surface that is chalking, I would recommend sanding with 120 grit. The sand paper is less likely to clog. If your substrate is powder coated and is not chalking then 240 grit will be enough to key the surface especially if you have scoured it first. However, if your substrate is anodized then you’re in for some real work because you’ll need to break out the 60 grit sand paper. Have some masking tape band aids for the ends of your fingers ready because this is where you are going to be “rubbing your fingers to the bone.”

Sixty grit will really carve the anodized surface up. And you would want the paint to really stick, right? Skip this and you’ll be doing the job all over again. Once you’ve done this, it’s best that you go over the job again with 120 grit sand paper to smooth out the gouges caused by the 60 grit.

You’re nearly ready to start the fun part which is applying the paint. Just before you paint a window give it another clean wipe using your solvent wash, remember to use two different clean cloths.

Painting- Use a three coat system with the first coat being a primer sealer light coat- use a single pac etch primer. The second coat being the first of the top coats, then the second top coat being the third coat.

At this point, you have to make a couple of choices. First, what type of paint do you want to apply? I recommend either oil based enamel or a two pac poly urethane. If you have little or no experience with using two pacs, stick with the oil based enamels and apply it using a quality brush. However, if you have used two pacs before, then, the only way to apply them is by using an HVLP spray gun in order to gain quality finish. The benefit of using a two pac paint over an oil based enamel, is that you will get a more durable quality finish that closely resembles a powder coat finish.

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Source by Chris T Vernon

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While car magnets are, for the most part, a fairly-simple car sign product, there are some common questions that potential customers often ask about them. Here are some of the most-frequent questions customers need help with concerning car magnets.

How do I keep my car magnets from flying off my vehicle?

First, make sure your printing company sells magnets with rounded corners. This process makes the magnets much more aerodynamic and prevents air from catching the corners of the magnets and pulling them off the vehicle. Once you receive your magnet, make sure it is completely-flat before you apply it to your vehicle. If you ordered your magnets online, they were probably rolled in a shipping tube. Take your magnets out of the tube and flatten them on a refrigerator for 24 hours before installing them on your vehicle. Finally, make sure your vehicle and the magnet both are completely clean before installing-any dirt or dust between the vehicle and the magnet could cause it to fall off. Apply your magnet to a flat, smooth area of the vehicle with no curves, creases, or trim pieces.

What is the most-popular size for car magnets?

The most commonly-ordered car magnet sizes are 12″x24″ for cars and 18″x24″ for vans, trucks, and SUVs. There is no standard size for magnetic signs, however, because every vehicle is different. It’s important to measure the area of your vehicle before you order your magnets to make sure you get the right size. As mentioned in the previous question, magnets cannot cover any creases or trim on the door of the vehicle, so fit them to the flattest area available.

Are car magnets weather-resistant?

Reputable sign companies will print car magnets with UV-resistant inks that do not fade in the sunlight. They will also overlaminate the magnets, which means that a clear film is applied over the printed side of the magnet, which acts as a weather seal. Magnets should be removed in any extreme weather as a precautionary measure, but overlaminated magnets will hold up to rain, snow, heat, etc.

Can I get my car magnets made in shapes?

Many customers like to order round or oval-shaped magnets, but this generally depends on your sign company. Most round the corners as standard procedure, but beyond that, you’ll want to check with the professionals. Shapes are generally possible for a custom price. If this turns out to be too-expensive, consider ordering car decals, which can easily-be die-cut for a reasonable price.

How do I store car magnets?

Magnets should be stored completely-flat to make sure they do not bend or warp over time. Do not place them in the backseat of a vehicle or bed of a pickup truck. Stack magnets on top of each other front-to-back. If the magnetic sides of your magnets touch each other, they could get damaged.

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Source by Robert Kinder

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First, a disclaimer: I’m going to call it a “VIN number” just like everyone else, even though we all know that the ‘N’ in VIN stands for “Number,” which I probably don’t have to tell you means we are all essentially calling it a Vehicle Identification Number… Number. Yes, just as we like to refer to our bank card Personal Identification Number as a PIN number, knowing full well that the ‘N’ in PIN also stands for “Number.” We digress…

Think of your VIN number as one of the little things that…well… COUNTS when it comes to selling your vehicle quickly. That tiny little combination of numbers and letters, typically found embedded in the dashboard of your vehicle (close to where it meets the windshield), or on the vehicle’s firewall, or on the driver’s side door post, or even on many of the main components of the originally manufactured vehicle (i.e., the engine), provides a lot of information to a potential buyer. And before I go on, allow me to dispel the myth that someone can use your VIN number to have a key made, which would make breaking into or stealing your car much easier. Don’t sweat it. It’s just not true.

While most of the the 17 individual numbers or letters only confirm much of what you would have already told a potential buyer about your vehicle — the year, make, model, body style, engine type, etc. — decoding the remaining digits is pretty irrelevant in the grand scheme of getting your car sold. Let’s face it, nobody outside of Robert Langdon really cares about deciphering the carline code (the what?) or figuring out at what assembly plant the vehicle was produced — yes, these are actual details that the individual numbers or letters of a VIN abbreviate for you. However, what a potential buyer would like to know — not just be told — are details related to the history of the vehicle. Herein lays the true beauty of the VIN number.

By providing the VIN number to potential buyers you are allowing them to virtually travel back in time, without a DeLorean, to make sure you’re not hiding anything about your vehicle. Did you know that every time a vehicle is treated by a [reputable] mechanic or service department that the diagnosis and treatment are logged under that vehicle’s VIN number? Think of it as a vehicle’s Social Security Number, or DNA, or fingerprint, or any other cheesy analogy that stresses that these numbers are UNIQUE for every vehicle. Yes, you could even say VIN numbers are like snowflakes because no two are alike. I would really just prefer you didn’t.

There are now a plethora of websites and services that offer Vehicle History Reports, where all someone needs to provide is a VIN number and they’ll provide documentation (some instantly on the web) confirming or dispelling all of a buyer’s worst fears – Is this vehicle stolen? Has there ever been any major frame damage? Did someone forge a river in this Jeep? Has it been on fire? Are there really only 18 miles on this ’95 Camry, or did someone jack with the odometer? Is this thing a LEMON or what?!

Selling a car is stressful. Buying a car, especially a used car, is more stressful. Next to buying a home, a vehicle is often the largest type of purchase people make and they don’t want to get ripped off. And they want to trust you, the seller, but they don’t want to be naive.

My answer to this question is an emphatic, “YES!” Put the minds of potential buyers at rest by providing your vehicle’s VIN number, so they can do their homework. And if you want to set yourself apart from other sellers with vehicles comparable to yours, do the buyer’s homework for them (your allowed – this isn’t school) and purchase the Vehicle History Report yourself. It’ll cost you about $20. I’m not suggesting giving it away, rather making it available. If you want selling your car to be easier, make buying your car easier.

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Source by Adam Little

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In 1946 Lionel produced an array of outfits similar to those in their prewar catalogs. Among these offerings were 23 sets. This broad spectrum of sets allowed Lionel to offer outfits at several prices, with the least expensive outfit retailing for only $24.95, while the deluxe outfit was $85.00.

1946 was the debut year of many new designs, unlike the previous year which only rehashed previously produced products. New motive power included the O-Gauge 726 Berkshire, produced by installing a 2-8-4 mechanism in a boiler based on the prewar 226E, and the all-new 6-8-6 Pennsylvania turbine. The latter was offered in O-Gauge outfits as catalog number 671, while those included in O27 outfits were numbered 2020. To the lower end of the line was a streamlined 2-6-4 with the catalog number of 221.

New freight cars were introduced as well. The 2411 “big inch” flatcar shared its die-cast frame with the 2419 and 2420 work cabooses. Also using die-cast frames were the new dump cars: 3451 for logs and 3459 for coal. The new 2460 crane also had a die-cast frame, and rode on a pair of six-wheel trucks. These trucks shared many components with similar six-wheel trucks used on Bakelite-bodied 2625 passenger cars and the die-cast-bodied 2426W tender used by the 726.

The engineering used to produced the 1945, 2452 gondola, was expanded. The 2454 boxcar, 2465 Sunoco tank car and 3454 operating merchandise cars included plastic bodies mounted on steel frames. The 2452 was continued, and joined by a second gondola, the 2452X, which lacked the brake wheels and barrels that adorned the 2452.

The low-end O27 sets contained many cars that were reworked from prewar designs, but as more of the year passed, increasing numbers of new products were produced, which were included in more expensive outfits. Following up on the success of the 1945 knuckle couplers was a spectacular new feature included in the better sets, smoke. Even more spectacular, but much less widespread, was Electronic Control-the latter available only in set 4109WS. As was the case in 1945, the 1946 outfit boxes were simple corrugated cartons with pasted-on labels to identify the set they contained.

The following are some of the most sought after Lionel O27-Gauge Outfits from 1946:

1400W–Lionel O27 Passenger Set– Retailed for $35.95

Included: 221 2-6-4 steam locomotive with operating headlight; 221W sheet-metal tender; two 2430 blue Pullman cars; 2431 blue observation; eight 1013 curved and three 1018 straight track; 1019 O27 remote control track section; UTC Lockon, 926-5 instruction booklet; 1041 60-watt transformer.

This set was a slightly more expensive version of the 1400 outfit. For the an extra $5.95 over the 1400, a 221W whistling tender replaced the 221T, and the transformer was upgraded to a 1401 60-watt unit. In excellent condition, this set is worth approx. $650. In like new condition this set is worth approx. $1400.

1407B–Lionel O27 Switcher Bell Outfit– Retailed for $37.50

Included: 1665 0-4-0 steam switcher with operating headlight; 2403B slope-back tender with ringing bell; 2560 crane; 2452X gondola; 2419 work caboose; eight 1013 curved and five 1018 straight track; 1019 O27 remote control track section; UTC Lockon; 926-5 instruction booklet; 1037 40-watt transformer.

This train was powered by a 1665 0-4-0 switcher, which was a revamped prewar 1662 switcher. Among the changes made to the locomotive were the installation of the new postwar trucks on the tender, and mounting Lionel’s new knuckle couplers on the rear of the tender and pilot of the locomotive. Mounting an injection-molded plastic cab and two injection-molded plastic toolboxes onto the die-cast body casting created for the 2411 flatcar crated the 2419 work caboose. A die-cast smoke-jack was installed on the caboose cab. The sheet metal 2560 crane car was carried over form the prewar line in its original colors of yellow cab with red roof. The 1946 production of these cranes included two-piece booms that were riveted together, and had the Lionel name molded in. In excellent condition this outfit is worth approx. $900. In like new condition this outfit is worth approx. $1500.

1421WS–Lionel O27 Freight Train–Retailed for $85.00

Included: 2020 6-8-6 steam turbine locomotive with operating headlight and smoke; 2020W early coal whistle tender; 3451 operating log car; 2465 Sunoco double-dome tank car; 3454 merchandise car; 2472 non-illuminated Pennsylvania N5 caboose; 164 operating log loader; ten 1013 curved and five 1018 straight track; 1019 O27 remote control track section; pair of 1121 remote-control turnouts; UTC Lockon; 926-5 instruction booklet; 1041 60-watt transformer.

While the 1419W provided the owner with a coal empire, the 1421W, also priced at $85, created a lumber empire. Trailing the 2020 steam turbine in the set was a die-cast 3451 log dump car to be used in conjunction with the 164 log loader. The 1964 log car carried five unstained logs and was rubber stamped in silver. The pick up shoes were wired with blue wire, and a pair of 1121 remote-control turnouts was included in order to incorporate the 164 in the track layout. A silver 3454 operating merchandise car added even more action to the train, which was surprisingly finished with a plain red, non-illuminated 2472 caboose. Like the 1419WS, many examples of this set have been found with a 75-watt 1042 transformer rather than the listed 60-watt 1041. This train in excellent condition is worth approx. $1500 and in like new condition is worth approx. $1500.

The following are some of the most sought after Lionel O-Gauge outfits from 1946:

2110WS–Lionel Three-Car Passenger– Retailed for $75.00

Included: 671 6-8-6 steam turbine locomotive with operating headlight and smoke; 2466W early coal whistle tender; three 2625 heavyweight Pullmans; eight OC curved and five OS straight track; RCS uncoupling/operating section; 167 whistle controller; UTC Lockon; 926-5 instruction booklet.

To create a premium O-gauge passenger set, Lionel revived it prewar Bakelite “Irvington” passenger car. The postwar incarnation of this car included newly designed six-wheel trucks with knuckle couplers–derivatives of these trucks were used on the 2460 crane and 2426W tender as well. The car bodies were painted maroon or reddish-brown in contrast to the prewar color of medium brown. To tow this passenger train, Lionel used its replica of the Pennsylvania 20-wheel steam turbine, the 671. This set in excellent condition is worth approx. $1750 and this set in like new condition is worth approx. $2975.

2113WS–Lionel O-Gauge Three-Car Freight Outfit–Retailed for $67.50

Included: 726 2-8-4 Berkshire steam locomotive with operating headlight and smoke; 2426W die-cast whistle tender; 2855 black Sunoco single dome tank car; 3854 operating merchandise car; 2457 illuminated caboose; eight OC operating merchandise car; 2457 illuminated caboose; eight OC curved and sever OS straight track; RCS uncoupling/operating section; 167 whistle controller; UTC Lockon; 926-5 instruction booklet.

Premiering in outfit 2113WS was the new 2-8-4 Berkshire steam locomotive. Though a 2-8-4 would be a staple of Lionel’s O-gauge sets into the 1960s, the 1946 model was unique. The smoke unit was based on a light bulb, the motor and reversing E-unit was mounted horizontally, and the handrails mounted with turned stanchions. The earliest versions of the 726 were equipped with what collectors refer to as the “large stack” motor. Later, the number of field laminations was reduced, resulting is what is known as a “short stack” motor.

The corrugated component box was unique to the 1946 locomotive. Sealed with prewar-style orange and blue sealing tape, the carton was marked with a manufacturer’s seal that stated, “GAIR BOGOTA CORR. & FIBRE BOX CORP.” The ends of the box were stamped with “No. 726” in small lettering. The cars in tow were just as unique. Though cataloged as the common silver 2755, the tank car included was actually the scarce black 1855. The prewar semi-scale boxcar tooling was revived and modified with the addition of a roof hatch and internal mechanism to create an operating merchandise car, the 3854. This car is one of the most difficult to find items from the postwar era. In excellent condition this outfit is worth approx. $2000. In like new condition this set is worth approx. $3200.

2114WS–Lionel O-Gauge Three-Car Passenger Outfit–Retailed for $77.50

Included: 726 2-8-4 Berkshire steam locomotive with operating headlight and smoke; 2426W whistle tender; three 2625 heavyweight Pullmans; eight OC curved and five OS straight track; RCS uncoupling/operating section; 167 controller; UTC Lockon; 926-5 instruction booklet.

This was the most expensive passenger outfit offered in 1946. The three Bakelite 2625 Irvington passenger cars presented the 726 with a formidable load, especially those locomotives equipped with the later “short stack” motor. The die-cast tenders were equipped with die-cast whistle housings and, though initially stamped in white, ultimately were lettered in silver. In excellent condition the outfit is worth approx. $2500 and in like new condition is worth $4000.

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Source by Joelyn Pullano

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Any skateboarder should know and understand the different parts of a skateboard. Knowing the skateboard parts allows you to understand how the board works, which comes in handy when you are trying to figure out how to do tricks and can help you to ride more safely. Additionally, knowing the parts of a skateboard will come in handy if something needs repaired or replaced.

The Deck

The deck is one of the most recognizable parts of a skateboard. It is where you stand and where you get to show off your personal style with decoration and designs. The deck is made of wood and may also be referred to as the board. The deck is usually made from layered wood pieces. Maple and birch are commonly used, but almost any wood can be used if it has strength and durability. Boards are often an oblong shape, but creative manufacturers may make the deck any shape or size they desire.

The Trucks

The trucks are the axle on which the wheels are mounted. The trucks take on a lot of responsibility in balancing the board and providing strength. The trucks are on the underside of the board and are adjustable. Adjusting the trucks can allow you to customize the feel of your board.

The Wheels

The wheels are self explanatory as you should know where they are and what they do. As far as skateboard parts, the wheels are actually quite varied. You can get wheels with designs on them or in different colors. They come in various heights and widths, too. You should choose a wheel based on how you ride and where you ride. Wheel choice is also based on your experience level. You may need to try out different types to find what works best for you.

The Bearings

The bearings are in the wheels and what allow the wheels to spin. Without bearings you are not going anywhere. This is one of the parts of a skateboard that you should really get to know. Bearings wear out over time and need replaced. In fact, this is likely one of the most replaced parts of a skateboard. There are four bearings because each wheel needs one. It is a good idea to buy a high quality bearing so you can get the most from it and not have to replace it too often.

Knowing the main parts of a skateboard will come in handy. When something goes wrong you can easily identify what needs fixed or replaced. You can often do repairs on your own if you understand the different parts and how they function. Having this knowledge also is helpful when you are trying to improve your skills and make your board fit your style. Not to mention that you can add your own flair to your board through choosing custom decks and wheels since you now know what they are and where they are located on the board. As you can see, being knowledgeable about your board is something that will be a great benefit to you for many reasons.

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Source by Nicole Roberts

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Over the years, before retirement I was involved in the vehicle cleaning business – as the business grew bigger and bigger, we found other things to wash. By the time I retired, our franchisees which had operated in 23 states washing trucks, locomotives, concrete, aircraft, buses, police cars, postal vehicles, new car lots, houses, windows, and even boats on the water at the marina. It’s actually hard to clean the boats on the water at the marina we did it from a pontoon boat platform. Now then I’d like to talk about this for second if I might.

You see, when you are on a boat and you are trying to clean another boat, you are brushing the sides, but each time you do a brushstroke and put any pressure on the hull of the other boat, you are pushing yourself away from the boat you’re trying to clean. That makes it extremely difficult. Now you can brush up and down, but then you end up rushing into the water, and bringing up lots of algae on the brush. To say the least it’s very difficult, but I don’t believe it has to be, and let me tell you why.

Also by the time I retired, we had put in detail shops, truck washes, and even fixed site car washes, yes the business grew quite large. Interestingly enough, it seems to me that it would be possible to build a boat washing machine which was more like a car wash. And here’s how it would work. The boat hull would come into a semi enclosure, although it would allow for sailboat masts, to poke through the center of the building. Then the walls or sides of the boat wash would slowly move inwards towards the hull of the boat to adjust to its exact size.

As the boat moved through, it would be cleaned by brushes underneath, and on the sides, while the top of the boat would get a fresh water rinse, after the workers battened down the hatches of course. It seems that such a system could exist, it would be quite easy to wash boats, and they would line up to get washed, just as they do with the car wash. It’s not that this system would be that difficult to build; the question is would the industry accept it, and would the engineering to build such a device, and install it be worth the time, energy, and the capital costs.

Now then, I’ve been to marinas in every single state in the continental US which borders the ocean, and a good many marinas at the largest lakes in the United States as well. Indeed, I think this can work. Please consider all this.

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Source by Lance Winslow

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I have seen many bedbug infestations in my time in the pest control industry. Usually they start by infesting a bedroom and mattress. Once the person starts sleeping on the couch downstairs, they eventually bring the bedbugs with them to the couch. Today we are going to discuss how to get bed bugs out of a couch.

I need to be upfront in saying that it is really difficult to get bedbugs out of a couch. The only way you can guarantee to kill everything in a couch is to have the couch fumigated by a professional pest control company. You would need to rent a moving truck and put all of your personal belongings in the truck where a pest control company can fumigate all of your personal belongings inside the truck for 24-48 hours. This kills everything living in the truck. For the cost of this type of treatment, you could probably just purchase a new couch.

If you want to try to save your couch, I recommend vacuuming the couch completely. You will have to vacuum everything very well. You may not be able to completely eliminate all of the bedbugs infesting the couch, but this is the only treatment that could be somewhat effective. The bedbugs are most likely infesting the inside of the couch, so you might have to take the couch apart to effectively vacuum it.

As you can see, it is possible to get these nasty critters out of your couch, but it is going to be extremely difficult for you to do it yourself. If you want to know my answer on how to get rid of bed bugs in a couch, I would tell you to take it (along with other personal belongings) to a professional exterminator to fumigate the truck. Only a few companies do fumigation services, so you will need to call ahead.

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Source by Christian M Smith

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The secret to getting a great deal when buying a used tractor is to be armed with information. Start by knowing how to quickly determine the age, condition and average selling price for any brand and model of used tractor. Then know what problem areas to take a close look at. The final step is to know the seven negotiating statements that will drastically lower the asking price of any tractor — including the one sound that you can utter that will knock 10% off the price of any tractor.

Let’s start at the beginning. The first step to getting a great deal on a used tractor is to do a little research and be an informed buyer. Let’s start at the beginning. When you’re looking to buy a used tractor don’t worry that it may be older than you are. Buying a used tractor is not like buying a used car. Tractors are made to last forever and you can still get parts for almost any tractor regardless of how old it is. Also, unlike your car, tractors are relatively easy to fix. Keep these facts in mind when you’re looking for a used tractor.

When buying a used tractor, one of the most important things to look for is a hydraulic system or three-point hitch as it is commonly called. The power-take-off or PTO is part of this system. Ford introduced the three-point hitch on their 9N tractor back in 1939. Farmall and John Deere waited a little later before they came out with a three-point hitch, but still most tractors you look at will have the three-point hitch, but be sure to check.

The three-point hitch and PTO system is very important because without it you will be limited in what you can do with your tractor.  So my advice is to only look at tractors with a three-point hitch. The next step is to determine the age of the tractor you’re considering. The best way to determine the age is to find the serial number and look it up on the Internet. Cars change designs every year, but tractors only make changes every decade or two, so you can’t tell much about how old a tractor is by just looking at it.

The Internet has a wealth of information about tractors. A good website where you can use the serial number and find the date a tractor was manufactured is Yesterday’s Tractors at YesterdaysTractors.com.  When you get to this site, click on “Tractor Registry” in the left Nav. panel to find information on any tractor. You can also use this site to see how much a particular type tractor has sold for recently.

The condition of a used is more important than the age. To determine the condition of a used tractor check to see if it has a tachometer that includes an hour meter. A lot of older tractors won’t have an hour meter. You can tell a lot about the condition of a used tractor by how much the petals are worn, how much play is in the steering and checking to see if there are any oil leaks. All of these factors will help you estimate the condition of a tractor.

Don’t be fooled by a new paint job. It could be covering up things. Also look at the tires. Just because the tires have good tread, it doesn’t mean that they’re in good condition. Check for dry rot and cracks. A good set of tires could cost you from $500 to well over $1,000.

Of course, check to see how the tractor starts and how it runs. If someone is trying to sell a tractor and they can’t make it start easily, there could be problem. You may want to have a mechanic look at the tractor with you. If the tractor is hard to start in warm weather, it will be even harder to start in colder weather. After you start the tractor, check to see if there is excessive smoke from the exhaust.

After you have checked all of the above points, you will probably know more about the tractor than the owner knows.

The next step is to check prices:

Two good places to check prices (other than Yesterday’s Tractors) are TractorHouse dot com and eBay. On eBay be sure to check completed auctions to see what tractors like the one you’re looking for really sold for. You can use this information in your negotiating.

One final point: How much equipment (if any) comes with a used tractor can be a big factor in determining the value of the tractor. Also, factor in how you will get the tractor home. If you can get a trailer in the deal, that’s that’s always a big plus.

When you’re armed with all of the above information, your final step is to “Negotiate like a Pro.” Here’s how to do it.

Seven negotiating techniques for people who don’t like to negotiate:

1.    Offer way less than you expect to have to pay.  Some people say, “I don’t want to negotiate and play games with you. I will give you $5,000 for the tractor and that’s it.”  These people almost always end up negotiating and paying a lot more.

2.    Always gasp and act shocked and surprised at the other side’s first price. Without saying a word, this lets the owner know that you think their price is totally unreasonable.

3.    Never, ever say yes to the first price they quote you —  even if the price is less than you expected to have to pay. If you say yes too quickly the other side will know that they priced the tractor too low. Then they may say something like, “Well let me clear this with my partner.”  Then he will come back and say that his partner would not agree with the offer.

4.    “You’ve got to do better than that.”  Always use this expression sometime during the negotiations.  This will almost always get you a lower price.

5.    Use the “good cop/bad cop” technique.  For example, say, “I would love to buy your tractor at that price, but my wife would kill me.  She’s dead set on me not paying more than $3,500 for a used tractor.”

6.    Arm yourself with information.  The more you’re prepared with facts and information, the better deal you can negotiate.  For example, say, “I have checked eBay and other Internet sources, and tractors like this one never sell for more than $35,000.”

7.    Never agree to split the difference.  The other side is almost always willing to split the difference, so offer less than half of the difference. You’ll usually get it.

Use these techniques and you will come out with the best deal possible on a used tractor. Don’t forget that there are a lot of good used tractors out there, so always be willing to walk away from any negotiation. 

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Source by Jerry Minchey

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As time goes on, the average length of American auto loans has steadily increased. Today, it’s not uncommon for lenders and automaker finance companies to offer car loans as long as 84 months…that’s a whopping 7 years of financing! Before entering into any loan agreement that spans such a length of time, you need to be doubly sure that you’re making the right decision for you and your financial future. Let’s look at the pros and cons of 7 year car loans.

84 Month Auto Loans: The Cons

Obviously, when you spread out your payments over a longer period of time, each payment itself becomes smaller. In this way, 7 year auto financing allows for lower per-monthly payments than a shorter loan. Unfortunately, most buyers are tempted to parlay these mathematics into buying a more expensive car than they otherwise would. or could But this begs the question: can you really afford a car this expensive?

The issue is depreciation. Most cars depreciate at a rate of about 15% per year. When you take 7 years to pay off your auto loan, you will find yourself owing more on the vehicle than it’s worth for more than half of the loan term. Basically, you are prolonging the amount of time you spend in a state of negative equity — otherwise referred to as an “upside down auto loan.” What if you need to sell the car for any reason or trade it in? If so, you will have to pay back your bank or lender all of the proceeds from the sale price, only to find yourself still owing them money. That’s not a happy place to be.

Another issue with 84 month auto loans is the finance fees. Basically, there is a longer period of time for finance charges to accrue, making the vehicle in question cost significantly more than it probably would from a 36, 48, 60, or even 72 month auto loan. You should also think about the wear and tear on the vehicle over this extensive period of time. The average American drives his or her car about 15,000 miles per year. That means that, near the end of your 84 month financing term, your vehicle will have accrued around 100,000 miles. Vehicles with this amount of mileage may cost more in maintenance and repairs than a newer vehicle. For this reason, evaluating the warranty of any vehicle subject to a long term auto loan is doubly important.

84 Month Auto Financing: The Pros

The most obvious advantage of long-term financing is lower payments. As we’ve said, however, interest rates and the cost of a higher-dollar vehicle can more than compensate for this advantage. That said, an 84 month auto loan may fit you if you have stellar credit, excellent income, and can negotiate a very low rate APR on your loan. It may allow you to afford the car you want without cutting as much into your monthly budget. Also, if you are a total car nut and absolutely must have a certain vehicle that you cannot afford any other way, 7 year financing may allow you to have what you want; just be prepared to sacrifice some money in the process.

Another scenario where an 84 month car loan might not be such a bad idea is when you a car as an investment. If you are in the market for a vintage or classic machine — one which does not depreciate due to its age, condition, or heritage — then an 84 month car loan might be the right option.

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Source by Jeff Constable