License Plate Number Search – How To Do A License Plate Lookup Online

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In order to conduct a license plate number search or license plate lookup online you need what is called a reverse lookup directory. This is a database which contains license plate numbers for millions of drivers. It works like a search engine such as Google, Yahoo or MSN except that with a reverse lookup directory, you find records by entering license plate numbers.

Looking up license plate numbers online is very easy and quick. You first need to have a license plate number. Then go to a reverse lookup directory and enter the license number in the search box provided and click on the search button. If a match is found, the system will then display the records so that you can see the information that you’re looking for. The information returned usually includes the name of the registered vehicle owner and their address.

When looking for a website to conduct a license plate lookup, you may need to consider some of the following:

– How much do they charge? Do they charge per search fees or do they require you to join as a member before you can access the records database?

– Is the database kept up to date?

– Do they provide customer support?

– How big is their database? Does it cover every driver or only a fraction of them?

– How do they compare with other providers?

Membership-based lookup directories tend to be much cheaper than the large online private investigation services. For example, some larger private investigation services charge as much as $89 per search while some membership-based lookup services online charge a small one-time fee for unlimited searches. Membership-based lookup services give you access to the same resources and databases that are used by professional private investigators. Looking up a license plate online is one of the fastest ways to find out the registered owner of a vehicle.

Gone are the days when you had to hire a private investigator to find out the owner of a license plate number. These days you can do it online in minutes. Most people are not aware of this because online license plate number search is quite a recent development. The really good thing about looking up license plate numbers online is that it’s far much cheaper than hiring a private investigator. It also means that you can do it online wherever there’s an internet connection.

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Source by Sylvia Richards

How to Change a Wheel Safely on a Slope

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Changing a wheel safely on a slope requires a bit more attention than changing it on a straight road. There are more chances of the car slipping or even sliding without a wheel. Somebody could get hurt in the process. On a slope certain precautions have to be taken to avoid accidents.

First you have to see which tire needs changing, is it the front or the rear. The rears are easier than the fronts. When you are next to the curb and you have to change a rear tire then you steer the car into the curb, so it locks in position and cannot roll. That would be the front of the tire if you are going down or the rear of the front tire if you are going up.

Take the jack and its handle, the wooden blocks, the warning sign, the stepney and the wheel wrench out of the boot. Put the warning sign up for other motorists to see and the wooden blocks on the opposite side of the flat. This precaution further reinforces that you car will not move while you are changing the tire.

Open the wheel cover of the tire in question and loosen the nuts holding it. Then take the jack and attach it where the manufacturer says in the book. If you do not have the book the find a strong place so the jack will not penetrate the body of the car, like an axle. Raise the car up to where you can put the stepney in without problems.

Open the nuts fully and change the wheel to the stepney and hand tight the nuts in place, go criss cross when you do that to ensure the wheel is straight. Then lower the jack and tighten the wheel with a wrench again going criss cross. Remove the jack and put everything back into the dickey.

If a front tire has to be changed then obviously you cannot turn it to the curb, in which case you have to find some big stones to put behind the wheels on the other side. The wooden blocks may not take the weight of your car, and you don’t want it rolling at a vulnerable time. Accidents happen when people are in a hurry and they do not use common sense at the time.

If you have a flat and have to change your wheel always do things methodically and never in any rush. Think of the time you would lose if there is a mishap. Bad things happen and you have to cope with them. Always use the warning sign so others know that something is happening and they steer clear of your car.

Except for the basics there is a lot of common sense to be used in the entire process of changing a tire, putting the wooden blocks in for an example. See where the weight of your car is going to go and counter it accordingly with the blocks.

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Source by Binny Satin

Thinking of Buying an Austin Healey – Then You Should Hire One First?

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If you are planning to buy a big Austin Healey then you need to make absolutely sure you are buying the right model for your needs, before you even take one for a test drive. The owner is probably only going to let you out for a short test run of about 10 to 15 minutes. This may be long enough for you to decide if the car is in good enough condition to buy and that everything is working. But it isn’t long enough for you to decide whether it is the right model Healey for you or whether you can live with it or not. And if you are planning to spend over twenty thousand Pounds on an Austin Healey then you are in it for the long term. The best thing to do is hire a car of the model that you are planning to buy, to see if you really like it and can live with it.

First you need to understand the differences between the various Healey models and then some of the practicalities of owning and driving one. Having decided on the right car for you, you need to find one of that model and hire it for a day or weekend. Here I am talking about the cars that are generally called the “Big Healey” as opposed to the Austin Healey Sprite which by anyone’s definition would have been a very “Small Healey”. The Big Healey went through various evolutions, as most cars do, from the original Healey 100 of 1953 through to the final Healey 3000 MkIII which ceased production in 1968.

Healey 100/4

The Healey 100 was launched at the 1952 Motor Show with a body built by the Donald Healey Motor Company and the Austin engine that had been used in the A90 Atlantic and light trucks.

In what has become one of the stories of motoring legend, Leonard Lord of Austin was so impressed with the car that a deal was done and the car was instead launched as the Austin Healey 100. The four cylinder engine was a long stroke 2,660cc overhead valve (OHV) version which developed only 90 bhp but 150 lb ft of torque.  Early models now tend to be known as 100/4.

The original cars had a four speed gearbox fitted the engine produced so much torque that 1st gear was deemed unnecessary and was blanked off. A Laycock de Normanville overdrive was fitted which worked on 2nd and 3rd (now top) gears, effectively giving the car 5 gears. A Le Mans kit was offered giving 110 bhp which would turn your car into a 100M and a limited edition of 50 competition variants were sold as the 100S (Sebring) giving 132 bhp.

But there are a few downsides to the car.

Brakes were drums all round with no servo assistance and worked well but needed regular adjustment.  Steering was by cam and peg making it fairly heavy and slightly vague. The 16½ in diameter steering wheel, which was fitted to give sufficient leverage to lighten the steering, left little room in the cockpit for the driver’s legs.  The leather seats were very basic bucket ones, with no option to recline and were not very comfortable. Windows were clip on side screens and erecting the hood was a lengthy complex process akin to erecting a tent.  There was very little heat insulation built into the car with the result that much of the engine heat would bleed into the cockpit.  This and the fact that the passenger was sitting above the exhaust meant that a Healey passenger was never cold, but the cockpit could become extremely hot in summer in a warm country.

In 1955 the 3 speed gearbox was replaced with a better 4 speed one with overdrive on 3rd and 4th, giving it 6 gears.

Healey 100/6

The first major revision to the car came In 1956 with the 100-Six when the four cylinder engine was replaced by a 6 cylinder engine of 2,639cc.  This engine was smoother  but had less torque than the 100/4 and as the car was heavier the car was slower than its predecessor.  The interior was re-designed  and the wheelbase increased slightly to allow 2 small seats to be fitted, offering a 2+2 layout.   The cylinder head was changed in 1957 to increase the engine power. To keep the price down, some items which were standard on the 100/4 were now optional extras, including overdrive, wire wheels and even a heater!

Healey 3000 MkI

In 1959 the six cylinder engine was upgraded to 2,912 cc and the Healey 3000 was born. Power had increased to 124 bhp although adverts claimed 130 bhp.  Overdrive was still an optional extra and braking was improving with disks at the front.   The 2+2 variant continued to be offered and windows were still clip on side screens although now had a sliding panel instead of the earlier hinged window to allow for hand signals.

Healey 3000 MkII

In 1961 the MkII was launched with a triple carburettor engine increasing power slightly to 132 bhp and then in 1963 the Sports Convertible was announced, becoming the first Healey with wind up windows.  The hood was completely revised so that it folded down normally and could be erected in seconds with just one hand.  This is retrospectively referred to as the MkIIa.  The troublesome triple carbs were changed back to a pair of SUs but the car benefitted from having a brake servo as an optional extra, drastically improving the braking ability of the car.

Healey 3000 MkIII

The final incarnation , the MkIII ran from 1964 to the end of production in 1968 and is the most numerous of all the models built. The car finally became civilised with a more luxurious interior, polished walnut veneer dashboard with lockable glove box and provision for a radio and a single speaker.  The seats were improved and the rear seats folded down to form a flat luggage shelf to increase the otherwise poor luggage capacity of the car.

Healey Replicas

Official Healey production ceased in 1968 but a number of companies have offered replicas of Healeys with more modern running gear.  The chassis and body shell tends to be based on the 3000 MkIII and the engine is generally a V8, sometimes the 3.9 litre used in late model Rovers and the MG RV8.  The cars are variously described as either a Healey MkIV, Sebring, 3000 S etc.

The various Austin Healey models are normally described by enthusiasts, and therefore in classic car adverts by the first three characters of their chassis number:

BN1 Healey 100/4 

BN2 Healey 100/4 with 4 speed gearbox

BN4 Healey 100/6 two plus two

BN6 Healey 100/6 two seater

BN7 Healey 3000 MkI & II two seater

BT7 Healey 3000 MkI & II four seater

BJ7  Healey 3000 MkIIa four seater

BJ8  Healey 3000 MkIII

What are the practicalities of the different models?

The Big Healey is generally regarded as a ‘hairy chested’ sportscar being designed to be driven by men.  This is not a sexist comment as the car is genuinely heavy to drive.  The lack of power steering and no servos on the early cars mean that driving one is quite hard work and can be tiring on long journeys.  Overdrive was an optional extra on some models, but makes such a huge difference when cruising that I would regard this as essential when buying an Austin Healey.

All Healeys are very light on luggage space.  The boot is short and curves down and is therefore very small and not helped by the fact that the battery and spare wheel between them, take up about half the available space.

All Healeys are very low, with very little ground clearance and a low slung exhaust that runs under the rear axle.  If you are planning to take the car rallying then you are likely to have problems on rough roads.  The profusion of speed bumps everywhere from residential streets to pub car parks means that both the sump and exhaust are always at risk.  At The Open Road we fitted our BJ7 with a sump guard after one customer holed the sump on a rough road and have added an extra hanging bracket to one of the rear bumper irons to provide added support for the exhaust.

If you live in a country that suffers, or benefits, from inclement weather, then you really need to buy one of the later BJ7 or BJ8 cars with wind up windows and a good hood. BJ7 and BJ8s also benefit from being fitted with a brake servo making the car more drivable in modern traffic conditions.

All cars up to BJ7 had the indicators in with the side lights and brake lights. In modern traffic this means that the indicator is not very visible as it is a flashing brake light. The large amber indicators on the BJ8 are much more visible and arguably, safer.

Despite being referred to as the “Big Healey” these cars are very small inside.  They are only big in comparison with the Frogeye Sprite and are smaller than the other 2 seater sports cars of the same era, the MGB and Triumphs TR2, TR3 and TR4.  The cockpit is very narrow with short doors.  If you weigh more than 18 stone (250 lbs, 115 kilos) you are unlikely to fit. 

While some of the cars were built as 2+2 , recent European legislation states that small children (under 4ft 5in or 135cm in height) have to sit on a booster and this makes it completely impractical. I personally wouldn’t want a small child to be carried in the back of our own BJ7 and therefore as proprietor of The Open Road I tell all our classic car hire customers to treat our Austin Healey as a 2 seater.

Which is the best one to buy all depends on personal taste?

As with any model car there are a number of people that believe the original incarnation is the purist, in which case you have to decide between the 100/4 and 100/6.  You have to grapple with the early awkward gearbox and comfort is minimal from the bucket seats.  There was no provision made to install a radio, not that you’d be able to hear it.  If it rains you either keep driving or get wet while you fit the windows and erect the hood.

The Healey 3000 produced progressively more power and the interiors improved slightly with the MkI and MkII. But if you prefer reasonably civilised motoring then you need to opt for the MkIIa (BJ7) or MKIII (BJ8) with wind up windows and a proper hood.  The MkIIIs had space in the dashboard to fit a radio although you still may not be able to hear it above the noise of the engine, exhaust and the wind.

If you want further information on the Healey then Haynes publish an excellent book as part of their “Great Cars” series and this is available from Haynes direct, most specialist booksellers and The Open Road. 

Hiring an Austin Healey before you buy one

Having picked the right model Healey, you then need to hire one for a day, or even better a weekend’s touring. The early Healey 100s are very rare with only one available for hire in England and one for hire in Italy. Healey 3000s are more numerous with a choice of 10 available for hire in the UK and others available in Austria, Germany, South Africa and the USA.  Once you have decided which model Healey fits your needs, have a look through the Marques page on Classic Car Hire World.  Select Austin Healey and this will show you a list of all the Healeys of various models that are available for hire around the world. 

A weekend away may cost you anywhere from £500 to £1,000 for the car hire, a good hotel, a nice meal and all your petrol. But it is well worth it for two reasons:

1) You will have a great weekend away

2) Better to spend £1,000 or so and decide you can’t live with an Austin Healey, than find this out after you have parted with £20,000 to £30,000 or more of your hard earned cash.

Treat yourself and hire the right car for a day or so.  At best it will make sure you buy the right one, at worst it may cure you of the Austin Healey bug – but probably not!

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Source by Tony Merrygold

Examples of Defensive Driving

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This article outlines possible situations which could happen at any time, when least expected, during your driving career. The defense suggestions are merely recommendations for the situation. Each problem varies as to detail, so the defense must vary according to the situation. Below are some specific situations and specific solutions.

Safe Driving Spells Survival

Situation 1

You are driving down the highway at 60 miles per hour approaching a curve when another car approaching from the other direction at 70 miles per hour crosses the solid center line heading straight for you.

Defensive Driving Tactic 1

Do not steer to the left across the solid line. Brake, and steer out of the way onto the shoulder to the right. Sound horn. Do your best to avoid fence posts, trees, etc.

Situation 2

You are driving a vehicle down a slight grade on a main highway at 50 miles per hour. Suddenly the rear right tire blows without warning, and the vehicle swerves to the left and heads for the center white line. A car is coming the other way at 60 miles per hour.

Defensive Driving Tactic 2

Do not brake. Gain control of the steering and bring the car back on the correct side of the road. Let the car slow down without using the brake. Pump the brakes very gently at 10 or 15 miles per hour, and stop the car at the side of the road, off the pavement if possible.

Situation 3

You are driving down the highway in a 60 mile per hour zone when a car approaches from behind. This car tailgates but does not pass.

Defensive Driving Tactic 3

Slow down so that the vehicle may pass. If possible, merge into the lane to the right allowing the driver to pass. Get off the road if necessary.

Situation 4

Defensive drivers are always prepared for the unexpected. Imagine that you are driving down a main highway approaching an intersection with a secondary road which has a stop sign. Another car is approaching the intersection on your right at a high speed, and it appears as though the other driver will not be able to stop. What defensive action can you take?

Defensive Driving Tactic 4

Slow down. Put your right foot over the brake. Be prepared to make an emergency stop if necessary. This is why it is important to look far when driving in order to pick up potential hazards in your peripheral.

Situation 5

You are travelling down a highway at night when your car develops engine trouble and starts to lose power. The car speed reduces to 20 miles per hour and the engine stalls.

Defensive Driving Tactic 5

Pull completely off the road onto the shoulder, or onto a driveway or lot. Turn the emergency four way flashers on. Lift up the hood. Tie a white cloth to the antenna and use flares if you have them available.

Situation 6

You are driving down a highway when suddenly a car coming from the other direction pulls out to pass. It is apparent that he has not got sufficient room to complete the maneuver.

Defensive Driving Tactic 6

Brake immediately. Pull over to the right. Leave the pavement and go onto the shoulder if necessary. It may even be necessary to go into the ditch if the other driver does not return to his own lane in time.

Situation 7

You are driving alone at night through a mountainous area where there are no motels. You become very tired about 50 miles from your destination. Gradually your eyes start to close for lack of sleep and you feel that you can no longer drive safely.

Defensive Driving Tactic 7

Immediately stop the car in an area off the road. Shut off the engine. Get out of the car and take a short walk. Open the window part way down and lock the car. Sleep for an hour or two, providing that the temperature is not below freezing. When refreshed, drive on.

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Source by Kris Kolanko

How Will a Car Ionizer Help to Keep Air in My Car Fresh?

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Depending on where you live and what the air is like where you live will depend on whether or not you keep your car sealed when you are driving around. Most people will use their air conditioner during the summer and run the heat during the winter and therefore they do not want to keep their windows opened a small bit to allow specific elements that are in your car to escape. If you are a smoker and you drive your car around for a set amount of time then you will benefit from the use of a car ionizer. The car ionizer is made to remove the elements in your car that are caused from cigarette smoke as well as other elements.

The car exhaust can seep into your vehicle and can cause you and your loved one’s to get a headache and can ultimately make you sick from ingesting to much of the fumes that the exhaust puts out. This can be caused from a number of a factors. If your car has an exhaust leak then you might be getting fumes into your car from the leak. A car ionizer is designed to filter the air in which the ionizer is placed in. Depending on the size of your car will depend on what size of a ionizer you need as well as if you are going to need more than one. In some instances the car is to large and you will need to install more than just one ionizer in order for the air to clean properly. If you own a minivan then you might be interested in purchasing more than just one ionizer to have the people in the rear of the minivan receive the full benefit of the ionizer.

When you are interested in purchasing a air ionizer for your car then you might be interested in purchasing the one that has a long cord so that you can place the ionizer in the middle of the car which will eliminate the need of purchasing more than one ionizer. Otherwise there are small individual car ionizer’s that are plugged into your car’s cigarette lighter port and will take up just a small portion of your car. When the ionizer is plugged into the port of the lighter in your car, the filter inside of the ionizer is designed to filter any bad particles in your car’s air out of the air and then return the clean air into your car. These car ionizers are made to remove such articles of dust, fumes, smoke and so on from your air. The clean air is then distributed back into the air of your car for everyone to share. This is perfect for small cars or large cars. Driving with your windows closed makes a big difference on the air quality of your car as well as being able to keep the air quality on bad days outside out of your car.

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Source by Jason Taloner

The Importance of Car Registration

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A person cannot drive a car if he has no license. In the same manner, a car should not be driven if it’s not registered. And proof that a car has been registered with the Department of Motor Vehicle (DMV), the car’s owner is issued a registration plate, also known as license plate.

After buying a car, the owner will apply for a registration of his vehicle at the DMV and will be given a license plate marked with a series of numbers and letters. The license plate markings will depend on the state where the car is registered.

Simply put, a car registration is a material proof that the owner has complied with all the requirements in registering a car, such as paying all the necessary fees and taxes. After that, then you won’t be having any problems driving a car in highways.

Based on a federal law, a car must be registered before it can be driven. An unregistered vehicle, especially if it’s driven, is clearly a violation of such law. If upon inspection the arresting officer will find out that a car has no registration plate, it will end up being impounded. The driver will suffer too, as he will be penalized for driving an unregistered car.

The most obvious way to determine if a car has not been registered is if it has no license plate attached on the vehicle’s front and back bumper. Also, if its registration has expired and has not been renewed it will show on the license plate the most recent year it was registered. In other words, there’s no way you can get out of it.

Any law-abiding citizen is well aware of the most basic fact that driving a car without license is a violation. A driver will also put himself in a dangerous position if he drives a vehicle without registration plate while he has no driver’s license. Penalties and possible jail time will await that driver.

But there are people who take the risk of doing just that. These are the individuals who have intent on doing criminal activities. A vehicle with no or fake registration plate can never be traced by the DMV car registration system. To a good citizen, this is tantamount to committing a crime. So if you’re driving down the road and have by chance spotted a vehicle bearing no license plate, better report it to authorities.

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Source by Anjo Bacarisas

Sonnets – Open Your Heart With 140 Syllables and Fill it and Someone Else’s With Love

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The English Sonnet is just one of many variations of what started out as the word for “little song.” Hence, it is called sonnet, or a truncated form of sonnetto. In form, it is not difficult. The content is presented in fourteen lines, which is more flexible than the 17 syllables of haiku but far more restrictive than the three thousand line epics of historical predecessors like Homer and Virgil.

Condition I: 14 lines

Each of the fourteen lines consists of five units of measure with a specific pattern of rhythm.

Rhythm itself is a pattern of syllables that are stressed or unstressed, i.e., they have a pattern of accents or non-accents. The vocabulary of languages consists of multiple-syllable words as well as one-syllable words, the combination of which forms a recognizable pattern of speech This pattern can undulate (flow like a wave) according to its arrangement in a linear format.

Example: Poe’s “The Raven” has a relatively consistent trochaic pattern of stressed-unstressed syllables. It begins, Once upon a midnight dreary, while I pondered, weak and weary… a pattern of stressed and unstressed syllables that is almost melodic.

Another example: The Christmas piece with a well-know lyrical pattern is, “T’was the night before Christmas, and all through the house, not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse… “

Note the anapestic pattern of two unstressed syllables followed by one stressed throughout the line. To make the process consistent with historical applications, the rhythmic patterns use the names that were available at the time of their formal inception into classical literature. Their nomenclature included reference not only to their QUANTITY (number of syllables per line but also their QUALITY (the specific kind of named pattern per line). The characteristics of the syllable were likewise classified as LONG (stressed) or SHORT (unstressed).

These are as follows:

1. the IAMB: a pattern two syllables the first of which is Unstressed followed by a Stressed

2. the reciprocal of the iamb is the TROCHEE which is the reverse: two syllable, the first being Stressed while the second is Unstressed

3. a third pattern is the DACTYL, which consists of three syllables with the first one stressed and the next two unstressed

4. the reciprocal of the dactyl is the ANAPEST which has a pattern of two unstressed syllables followed by one stressed

5. two forms which are often used as filler between or among the others are the SPONDEE, two consecutive stressed syllables and the PYRRHIC which is a combination of two Unstressed syllables.

How does this apply to the five-foot line? Consider that each of the iambs, dactyls, trochees, anapests, spondees, and pyrrhic combinations is a measure (from METER, the Greek word for measure), not so different from a measure of music. But, it seems that the word FOOT became an essential, universally acceptable measurement for each of the syllabic combinations. Again, the Greek influence prevailed and the number of metrical (measurable) units (feet) required a numerical value to show how many of these units were in a line. Consider the following:

One foot per line = MONOMETER two feet per line = DIMETER three feet per line = TRIMETER four feet per line = TETRAMETER five feet per line = PENTAMETER six feet per line = HEXAMETER seven feet per line = HEPTAMETER eight feet per line = OCTAMETER nine feet per line = NONAMETER (a rarity) ten feet per line = DECAMETER [Hence, the ten-foot line.]

By extension, the following labels would apply.

A line of poetry that consists of four metrical feet of dactyls = dactylic tetrameter.

A line that consists of ten measures of anapests = anapestic decameter.

By definition the, the sonnet is a poem that utilizes 14 lines of iambic pentameter.

Condition II: Iambic pentameter(The Shakespearean or English Sonnet)

How do the string of words in a line, whether poetic or not, fit the pattern? The answer to that lies with the artistry, talent, genius of the writer. Sometimes it happens by luck, by chance, or on purpose. Look at the following examples:

A truck spilled its cargo of bananas. [7 words totaling 10 syllables of no set pattern] The highway was covered with yellow peels. [Again, 7 words and 10 syllables with no set patter]

A truck banana-laden spilled its load [9 words and 10 syllables in an iambic pattern] the concrete path attired with yellow peels. [7 words, 10 iambic measures]

See? Now we have two lines of iambic pentameter.

Condition III The string of words must be arranged to form the iambic pentameter flow.

Condition IV involves a variable, rhyme scheme. The English (Shakespearean) form takes on the rhyme scheme of ABAB CDCD EFEF GG. (End rhyme simply means the sound at the end of the line.)

Summary: The sonnet consists of 14 lines of iambic pentameter with a rhyme scheme to be determined by a specific type determined by the writer, whether it follows Spenserian, Shakespearean, or Petrarchan.

The content of the sonnet has some strictly listed conditions that are imposed only by the purists. The first three quatrains should state the problem while the couplet at the end should resolve it; but these are limitations I choose to modify to my own liking for the sake of getting a point across. Call it poetic license.

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Source by Larry Lynn

Changing Your Headlight Bulbs – A Guide to the Most Commonly Asked Car Bulb Questions

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If you are looking to buy, replace or even upgrade your headlight bulbs there seems to be an immense amount of advice available. Typically the amount of information that is passed down through word of mouth can be confusing and so listed below are some of these most commonly asked questions and answers.

Should I buy and replace headlight bulbs in pairs?

Yes. This makes good common sense advice for two reasons. Firstly if one of your bulbs has blown it is very likely that the other one will go fairly soon, so if you have taken the effort of changing one bulb you might as well change the other whilst your at it, and then you will not have to repeat the process for a considerable time.

The other reason for changing car bulbs in pairs is because as a bulb gets towards the end of its life its light performance is not at its optimum level and so installing one brand new headlight bulb whilst leaving the other old bulb in place will cause a light imbalance, meaning you are not getting the best light performance from your headlight bulbs.

Can I touch the glass when changing the headlight bulbs?

No. No matter how clean your hands are, when you touch the glass you will leave a residue of some of your skins natural oils. When the headlight bulb is illuminated this oil creates a hot spot on the glass and can lead to the bulb failing much earlier than expected.

Top car bulb manufacturers now use toughened quartz glass in their bulbs and so this hotspot issue is not such a factor as it used to be. However it is still good practice to wear latex gloves when handling headlight bulbs to ensure you get the best service life from them.

My car has plastic headlight lenses, does it matter which headlight bulbs I buy?

Yes. If you install headlight bulbs that do not have special UV filtered glass it will very quickly, discolour and eventually damage the plastic lenses. Therefore if you do have plastic lenses on your vehicle make sure the headlight bulbs you buy have special UV cut glass, this will normally be labeled clearly on the packaging.

If I want brighter headlights on the road can I fit high wattage headlight bulbs?

No. Whilst high wattage headlight bulbs can be over twice as bright as standard bulbs, they are not legal on public roads. This is because the incredible bright light they produce can easily temporarily blind on coming drivers.

If you are looking to improve your headlights, you should install upgrade headlight xenon bulbs, these are identical to your existing bulbs but are filled with xenon gas and so emit up to 90% more light, and best of all they are completely road legal.

Is the owner’s manual the best way to find out what headlight auto bulbs are fitted to my vehicles?

Yes and No. Normally the owner’s manual will give you accurate information about which type of bulbs you have fitted to your vehicle and their location. However during a production run, vehicle manufacturers do sometimes change the specification, design or parts supplier and so the subsequent bulbs used may differ from the original manual.

Therefore the best way to find out which type of bulbs have been fitted to your vehicle is to remove them and check it visually. Normally the bulb type is printed on the bulbs base.

Buying and replacing your headlight bulbs should normally be a straightforward job, however as is the case with most technical items, being armed with the right information will help you make the decision easier. Fitting the right headlight bulbs, correctly will not only save you money in the long run, but also make night driving safer and less stressful.

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Source by Jo Alexander

More About Bad Credit Car Loans

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Everyone deserves a second chance. Just because you may have a bad credit history doesn’t mean you should not be able to get a car loan and put yourself back on the road. After all, it can be hard to get around these days without your very own set of wheels. In this article I’ll talk more about bad credit car loans and what they mean for you.

What Is A Bad Credit Car Loan?

Some lenders out there will not loan you a cent if you have a bad credit history, no matter what it’s for or what your financial position may be today. But don’t despair. When it comes to car loans there are many lenders out there who are willing to give you a chance; financiers who specialise in loaning money to people who have a poor credit history.

So long as you can demonstrate that you are in a stronger and more stable financial position today, these finance companies will lend you the money to buy that car, despite your poor credit history.

You Are In The Driver’s Seat

Loans of this nature are generally no different to a loan for a person with a good credit history. Many will finance 100% of the car’s purchase price, interest rates are competitive, the lenders are reputable (think finance company, not loan shark), terms and loan structure are flexible in many cases, and loan approval times are fast.

You have control of your loan and you will literally be back in the driver’s seat in no time.

What Are The Risks?

The same as with any type of finance. You are borrowing money, there is interest to pay on the amount borrowed and you are required to meet the repayments every week, fortnight or month, however you choose to structure it.

Some Quick Tips

1. Don’t overspend. Purchase a car that is within your means to repay comfortably. Remember, cars cost money in upkeep, fuel, insurance and registration as well. It’s not just the purchase price or being able to meet the repayments.

2. Do your research and only deal with reputable bad credit car loan finance companies.

3. Take your time and only commit to a deal that you are comfortable with.

4. If you are purchasing a used car, have it thoroughly checked out by a qualified mechanic before committing to the purchase.

Conclusion

A bad credit history doesn’t have to spell doom and gloom for your borrowing future. In fact, successfully repaying a car loan obtained through a bad credit car loan finance company can be a great way to restore your credit score, making it easier to obtain finance for other things in the future.

We all deserve a second chance.

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Source by Darren Burton

How Much Does It Cost To Buy A Certain Kind Of Limo

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Distinguished travelers in Dallas and Fort Worth often rely on the timely use of a Dallas limousine service. Perhaps you are planning a wedding, and would like to transport the wedding party and relatives to the wedding site in a luxurious manner. Young people going to a big prom often enjoy traveling together in style in a Dallas Limousine. Business people need on time and reliable transportation to and from all of the Dallas and Fort Worth-area airports, and limousines provide excellent DFW Airport Transportation. There are many different types of Dallas limos that are suitable for every need. You can choose from sedans, stretch limousines, SUV limos, as well as limo buses, limo vans and limo mini-buses. Limousine providers want to offer you the best in luxury travel, and it all starts with the vehicles they purchase for use. There are a few variables that can affect the price of buying a limousine.

If you think about auto prices in general, you realize that vehicles vary wildly in price range. For example, very broadly speaking, a regular automobile that cost $20,000 new, if turned into a stretch limousine, would instead run between $60,000-$80,000. New vehicles would obviously cost more than used, but the drawback is that the older vehicles will require more maintenance.

The cheapest limousine in purchase price is not always the best buy. A vehicle that is put together with inferior parts might initially cost less but will break down more often, costing more in maintenance and upkeep in the long run. A vehicle that is broken down and in the shop is not being rented and earning its keep, which needs to be factored into the cost of buying a limousine.

A new Lincoln Federal Silverstone 120″ limousine, which has a 4.6 liter V8 engine with automatic transmission will come in around $75,000. A Mini Cooper XXL Stretch limousine could run you between $66,000 and $90,000. But good things come in small packages, so this might be the investment vehicle for you. And it comes with a hot tub, no less.

A new Hummer H2 limousine might run between $165,000 to $220,000. This is luxury–driving in a vehicle that costs as much as a house! A 2007 BMW Stretch limousine, which is styled on the BMW 745i and includes a fax, not one but two phones, a laptop computer and a satellite receiver set for Internet access, will cost around $344,600 dollars. You will be happy to know that you get to select the color. At the outer limits, a 2007 Rolls-Royce Phantom Stretch limousine will take you for a whopping $1 million to $1.2 million.

In addition to the cost of the vehicles, limousine companies also must set aside funds for maintenance, insurance, payroll for employees, as well as procure a facility for storing the vehicles.

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Source by Jonathan Blocker