How to Pick the Right Big Rig Towing Company – Is Price Your Only Motivation?

[ad_1]

In big rig towing a price estimate is generally computed based on port to port which means round trip from the tow company’s yard and back again. When the big rig tower gives an estimated time say 3 hours, the first reaction of the customer is well “it only takes me an hour to get there”. which is really saying it should only be a 1 1/2 hour job. What is not taken into consideration is that a big rig tow truck towing a truck or a tractor with a trailer combination will travel slower and how about hook up time which involve:

1. removing the drive line,

2. installing tow lights and safety chains,

3. running air to the truck to release the brakes.

After hook up, now tow the disabled truck to the customer’s location. Where are we headed? If the driver of the disabled truck is not with his or her truck then good directions are crucial in the final price.

Park in that perfect spot in the lot between other trucks on an uphill slope or how about around the corner behind the building against the fence.

Unhook the truck – take everything off and re-install the drive line. Having the tow operator re-install the drive line is becoming more and more a practice required by dealerships and repair shops which is yet one more added time factor.

Finally drive back to the towing company’s yard and hopefully not during commuter traffic.

So you see pricing can be tricky when you are given prices per hour. Usually, a tow company will estimate based on port to port charges and the pricing could become negotiated due to variables such as the “less than experienced driver” or traffic conditions.

Now that I have explained pricing, other factors to consider in selecting a good company:

1. How long have they been in business? Over 10 years means they rely on repeat customers. Referrals are essential to a tow company. If the company is fair there will be no problems in getting a good referral.

2. Many are registered for business ratings with The Better Business Bureau or Dun & Bradstreet.

3. They are active members with their state trade organization such as CTTA in California.

4. Clean trucks and drivers showing pride in the tow company and therefore reflects taking great care of their customers.

So, don’t let price be your only motivation. If you have these additional factors you will know that a good tow company has a pretty solid idea on their price. Why? Well they’ve been in the area long enough to know port to port times so their estimate will be pretty close to the final price. If a big rig tow company quotes a “low ball” hourly rate, they may make it up in charging more hours or add an extra charge such as a fuel surcharge.

Sure, competitive pricing is essential in today’s market but consider it with all these factors when picking the right towing company for you.

[ad_2]

Source by Kathy Ramirez

Trick My Truck & SUV – Ford Expedition Add Ons to Increase Horsepower and Gas Mileage

[ad_1]

Ford’s Expedition line of full size sport utility vehicles are among the most popular selling vehicles in their class. With dependable quality, powerful engine choices, and a variety of trim levels available, they are the most diverse group around. Ford’s 5.4 liter V8 engines delivers smooth yet powerful performance, there’s very little that the manufacturer needs to improve on with exception of gas mileage. That’s where the aftermarket community comes in. There are a large number of available performance products that will increase your gas mileage and horsepower. Don’t worry about rising summer gas prices, here are a few products you can buy at auto retail outlets and install in the same day with basic hand tools.

Probably the easiest and most widely available performance part you can buy is a higher flowing air filter from. A performance air filter will do a couple things for you. A higher flowing filter will help the engine breathe better by intaking more clean air into your intake, therefore netting you 8-10 more horsepower and increasing gas mileage 1-3 mpg’s. Another great feature is the reusability of the filter, there are cleaning solvents available you can use or just rinse off the dust and debris. Therefore making your overall maintenance costs lower. These particular air filters are made by K&N and Airaid and are available at retailers like Wal-Mart, Autozone, and Pep Boys. A great addition to any vehicle for only $35-55 and you’ll notice the change immediately.

Another great performance add on is a custom exhaust. Custom exhausts not only look great, sound great, but you’ll get better performance because of its efficient design to dispel burnt gases. Kits are available from Flowmaster, Borla, Magnaflow and Ford and have all the available hardware and instructions to make installation a snap. And best of all, ready-made kits can be installed in several hours using just basic hand tools. Custom welded exhaust jobs can be done but may cost more money unless you can perform the welding duties. As a result, you will notice the difference in you 5.4 V8 and you’ll get more satisfaction over the throaty sound it will make on the street.

And finally, another fantastic modification is a performance chip. With a performance chip installed on your Expedition, you will net extra ponies and better gas mileage. Chips are designed to enhance the transmission shift points and fuel curve by relearning the computer’s dynamics with the new info on the chip. Chips are made by well known companies such as Hypertech and Superchips. Typically, they only cost about $80-100 and they can be installed in less than half an hour with basic hand tools. Don’t leave this inexpensive part off your customization list for better performance.

So as you can see, there are a lot of available parts that you can purchase at your local retail outlets. An approximate combined increase would be about 30-40 HP gain and about a 3-6 mpg increase. To maximize the increases, there are lots of other ways to modify your Expedition to achieve those numbers. For instance, there are conversion kits you can make that can transform your truck or suv into an electric/gas hybrid. Made popular by the Prius, hybrids will multiply your fuel economy and the IRS will pay you tax credits just for driving a clean fuel vehicle.

[ad_2]

Source by Shaun Patrick Davidson

Do You Know The Proper Hand Signals For Knuckleboom Trucks?

[ad_1]

Whenever operating equipment such as industrial or heavy equipment, being able to clearly communicate with co-workers or other people at a job site is essential for everyone’s safety. Due to the noise common when operating many types of equipment, OSHA has added to crane operator requirements the ability to understand and communicate with certain hand and verbal signals; workers are even beginning to be qualified for this job to help keep communication open between equipment operators and anyone observing the work without being a direct part of the actual machine operations.

Knowing Job Site Hand Signals

Even in the best of environments, listening for cautions and warnings is not always possible. On a noisy industrial job site, there is little chance that a worker’s voice would be heard over noise generated by the equipment or truck itself. In such situations, the best way to communicate clearly has always been with hand gestures and OSHA is working to increase all crane operator awareness to such signals and meanings.

When operating many commercial heavy-duty vehicles, all it takes is a fraction of a second for something to go wrong, which means there should always be spotters and other trained personnel watching work progress, ready to stop it should a problem develop. The most reliable way to communicate with equipment or vehicle operators from a safe distance is through hand signals, which every operator should watch for and be able to interpret quickly in order to act accordingly. Through fast, precise, non-verbal communication between signal person and operator, accidents damaging the vehicle or the job site can be avoided – which is the main goal.

Qualifying As a Signal Person

Since equipment operators, workers, and other personnel will be depending on the signal person to be observing the work and ready to relay warnings quickly and accurately, candidates for this job must meet the following:

  • Understand Crane Operations – Before a signal person can work effectively, it is important to understand how cranes and knuckleboom trucks operate, any limitations, and typical use or maneuvers that could be dangerous. This person will only be able to provide correct directions to operators by understanding ahead of time how the vehicle is likely to react or must be operated to prevent problems.
  • Know Standardized Hand Gestures – Every qualified worker must know and explicitly understand all standardized signals and be able to accurately display them in all situations. Although some companies may continue to use localized hand gestures, this is being discouraged by OSHA as emphasis is being made for all companies to adopt standardized gestures for personnel training and qualification.
  • Know Voice Signals and Usage – There are also verbal cautions related to the different hand signals, even though most of the time voices cannot be heard. In any situations where verbal warnings can be used, it must be done in certain ways, in certain tones, etc.. to be recognized. Knowledge of correct verbal warnings is an important part of passing the certification exam.
  • Understand Routine and Special Assignment Zones – The primary job of a signal worker is to oversee and assist during routine equipment use. Certified workers must also be capable of overseeing and evaluating special lifting situations, such as relaying information between such workers, lifting in prohibited areas, and any lifts that involve raising workers to a higher level.
  • Reaction and The Breakdown of Correct Communications – If communication through gestures has somehow broken down, qualified signal workers should be able to quickly determine options to regain control of the situation and be able to use such options. It is essential to be able to prevent accident or injury in spite of any glitches in communications.

Although most of this seems to be common sense, a thorough understanding of hand gestures on the job site is essential because of the precise and specific language spoken between signal persons and team members. Extensive knowledge of communications must be known and used when working with equipment such as knuckleboom trucks in order to keep things moving as safely as possible!

[ad_2]

Source by Christopher M. Hunter

Camper Shells – Are They Right For Your Rig?

[ad_1]

Ah, the pickup truck. That open payload in the rear gives you the freedom to haul everything from bricks to gravel to your convertible bed. But, that open payload also leaves your gear and furniture exposed to the elements and the sticky fingers of parking lot bandits.

A lot of truck owners opt to install a camper shell because they want to safeguard their stuff from Mother Nature’s wrath and good-for-nothing crooks. However, this cuts down on their pickups’ versatility. You can’t exactly pack a full-size reproduction of the statue, Laocoon and His Sons, into your payload when it’s sporting a truck cap. There are clear advantages and disadvantages to camper shells, so consider these pros and cons before you make the investment.

Pros

Protection: Hands down – camper shells give you the most protection against nasty weather and parking lot Vikings. Because they’re lined with an insulated seal, rain water and slushy sleet should not be able to infiltrate your truck bed. And, the lockable latches on their access doors stop all but the most determined burglars from burgling your valuables.

Better MPGs: Camper shells improve your truck’s aerodynamics and can improve your fuel economy. You may not have known this, but your open payload is killing your MPGs. When air flows over your cockpit, it spills into your bed, hits your tailgate and creates drag. With a camper shell in place, air breezes smoothly across the roof instead of smacking into the back.

Cons

Less carrying capacity: Your truck bed is always constrained by its length and its width, but it also becomes constrained by height when you add a camper shell. Instead of having open skies overhead, there will be a fiberglass roof limiting the cargo that’ll fit. Because of a shell’s bulky size, lifting it on and off every time you’ve got a couch to move is just not practical, especially in impromptu moving situations like when you stumble across a free mattress in an alley. Of course, there are truck cap racks available to give you more room up top.

Extra weight: Don’t let the word “shell” trick you – camper shells are hardly as dainty as an egg. These sturdy truck caps are constructed from layers of fiberglass, and they weigh in at around 100 pounds. That kind of extra weight over the rear of your ride puts added stress on your shocks. Plus, it can cut into the fuel savings that come from the improved aerodynamics.

Choosing to get a truck is no small matter. Be sure to weigh the pros and cons carefully before you shell out the big bucks for a shell.

[ad_2]

Source by Jordan Catalano

Swapping a V8 Into a Toyota MR2 – Build Your Own Supercar

[ad_1]

Please note: This is the first in a series of articles on this subject.

For many years, I have dreamed of owning a mid-engine exotic supercar. Unfortunately, they remained out of my reach financially. I decided that the only way I was going to get one was to build it myself. I have always been fascinated by mid-engine sports cars due to their superior handling, braking, and traction over a front engine sports car –even those front engine cars with a rear transaxle, that have a supposedly optimum 50/50 weight distribution. I like to call them the “dumbbell cars” because their weight distribution is just like a dumbbell–heavy at the ends, and light in the middle. This is decidedly suboptimal for acceleration, handling and braking.

Compare this to a mid-engine cars, where if you were to make a dumbell resemble the mid-engine car, the weights would be slid to the center. Now, if you want to make the dumbell, or the mid-engine car rotate about its vertical axis (called “yaw” in aircraft terminology), it will do so much easier and more quickly. This is because the tire traction does not have to overcome the inertia that a front engine/rear transaxle car would have over each end of the car. The result is that the car will be able to change directions faster, and with less tire wear. The peak G-forces will be much higher in a mid-engine car as well, meaning its faster around the corners. Rear wheel traction during acceleration is superior, since more weight is on the rear wheels. Strangely, there are a lot of “side-effect” advantages to mid-engine cars that the automotive press fail to mention.

Some examples:

1) Exhaust piping is usually very short in a mid-engine car (compared to a front engine car), so the engine has to overcome less “pumping losses” or the resistance to the exhaust travelling out the tail pipe. This means more power. The exhaust system will also be lighter since there is less of it. Dumbell cars have no advantage here.

2) The rear brakes do a LOT more of the stopping vs. a front engine car. When you hit the brakes, weight transfers to the front wheels. This means that the rear wheels become unloaded. On front engine cars, the front brakes do about 80% of the stopping. This is why disk brakes in the rear took a long time to catch on. They simply are not needed in the rear. A mid engine car has a LOT more of the weight (usually around 55 to 60%) on the rear wheels. When you hit the brakes, weight transfers to the front, so under braking, you might get 50%-60% on the front. Dumbell cars get some of the help that mid-engine car gets, but not nearly as much, because the engine is still in the front and is still far heavier than the trans at the back.

3) the mid-engine car has no driveshaft (unless its an AWD car, like the R8, or the Veyron), so there is a weight savings here.

Unfortunately, most mid engine cars are very expensive. Ferrari, Lamborghini, McLaren, Zonda, Koenigsegg, Bugatti, and so on. Some of these cars are above a million dollars! Mid-engine cars do tend to be more difficult to work on as well. Changing sparks plugs on the exotics is a major operation. The McLaren F1 requires engine removal to change the plugs!

In the realm of affordable mid-engine sports cars, there are Pontiac Fieros and there are Toyota MR2s. In each case, the cars came with 4 cylinder motors. The Fieros also got V6s, but those V6’s were very underpowered, with a whopping 140hp. In 1990, Toyota redesigned the MR2 and upgraded the power as well. Base models got 130hp and the high-end Turbo was 200hp, which at the time, was quite a bit for a car that weighed 2700 lbs.

The new body was very good looking, much like the Ferrari 348 at the time. The build quality was also superior as it was, after all, a Toyota. I decided to purchase a 1993 Toyota MR2 turbo in 2005 with the intention of doing a Toyota V6 swap, which up to that point, had been done by many people. At about that same time, I found that there were some attempts to install a V8 engine into the earlier MR2 (Generation 1, 1984-1989 body style, or mark 1). There were also attempts to install a Toyota/Lexus V8 engine into a MR2 mark 2. The attempts at doing the V8 into the MR2 mark 2 were not completed, and the project owners gave up. The reasons were not clear, but it appeared to be due to the fact that the Toyota V8 was simply too long to fit in the car transversely, even after cutting the car severely in an attempt to make it fit.

As a Mechanical Engineer who happens to be a mid-engine sports car nut, I became intrigued with the possibility of putting a V8 into my MR2 mark 2. With a strong V8 engine, the MR2 would be transformed into a supercar, with supercar performance. The Fiero guys have enjoyed swapping V8s into their cars for many years. Fieros have an advantage over MR2s in that their engine compartment is wider allowing for a larger and longer engine, like a V8. Fieros and MR2s all have transversely mounted engines. Another advantage the Fiero guys have had is that the stock Getrag transaxle bolts up to a Cadillac 4.9 L OHV V8 from the late 1980’s/early 1990’s. The later Cadillac Northstar also bolts up without an expensive custom machined adaptor plate.

In late 2007, another V8 in a MR2 mark 1 (1st generation) was completed by a guy in Europe. The car was crazy fast, and would do cookies at the drop of a hat. What fun! So, I took another hard look at the prior attempts to install a V8 into the MR2 mark 2. What I realized was that they were attempting to “keep it in the family” and use a Toyota or Lexus V8. There wasn’t really any valid engineering reason to use this power plant. It did not bolt up to any of the MR2 transaxles, and it was too long. The Toyota V8 used,(engine code 1UZ-FE) is about 26 inches long from the crank pulley to the rear face of the engine, or bell housing interface. This is the critical dimension. Compare this to the stock MR2 engines like the 2.0L 3S-GTE turbo motor which has a critical dimension of 20 inches. This dimension is critical because it fits between the unibody pseudo-frame rails of the MR2 chassis.

I decided to take a different approach. I started searching the internet for a V8 engine that would fit the MR2 chassis, preferably with no cutting, or possibly with only a small amount of cutting of the MR2 unibody. My requirements were that it be a V8 with at least 300 horsepower, that it is available, that it would cost somewhere under $5,000, and that it would be short enough and narrow enough to fit the MR2. I succeeded in finding one. Audi has an interesting habit of making very short V8’s. They do this because they want to use their Quattro drive train, but at the same time, not compromise handling too much. Audi seems to prefer longitudinal engine and transmission arrangements over transverse. The Quattro drive train involves a driven front axle, which they had to locate behind the engine. If the engine is too long, it puts too much weight in front of that axle, so they compensate by making a shorter engine. This has the added benefit of allowing Audi to install this engine in smaller cars that were originally intended to have a 4 cylinder power plant. For my purposes, I found that the 1991 through early 2000 Audi V8 engines are approximately 20.6 inches long at the critical dimension, and about 29 inches wide, not including the headers, or other easily removed items.

I purchased a 1997 Audi 4.2L V8 (engine code ABZ) and a transaxle, and started working on my project. Unfortunately, after much trial and error, I finally decided that the Audi V8 was not suitable for this engine swap. The problem laid in the fact that the engine was always designed to be longitudinal. In my case, with a transverse layout, the right size axle had to run along side of the engine, and Audi did not design the engine with that in mind, so there are large portions of the block in the way of that axle. The starter, oil filter/cooler and engine mount are also in the way on that side, however, I did solve those problems. The nail in the coffin of the Audi was the adaptor plate. I determined that the adaptor plate required some of the mounting bolts to be located inside of the bell housing of the 6 speed transaxle I was using, so it was impossible to tighten them. At that point, I decided to change my approach and use a different engine.

Please stay tuned for the next in this series of articles.

[ad_2]

Source by Chris Bulen

The Anatomy of Trucks and Lorries

[ad_1]

A lorry is a large vehicle designed to carry cargo.

Lorries vary greatly in size, smaller almost car like trucks up to custom built specialised cargo hauling trucks.

There are 4 main sections on any truck. This guide aims to run through briefly about each one.

Cab

The cab is where the driver is seated, it is an enclosed space. Some trucks feature a space behind the cab where the driver can rest while not driving, this is called the sleeper. 3 types of cab design exist, these are Cab Over Engine (COE), Cab Beside Engine (CBE) and Conventional cabs

Most COE trucks are found in and around Europe as the length is strictly regulated. The driver is sat in the cab above the engine.

North America has the highest concentration of conventional cabs. The driver is sat behind the engine like most car drivers.

Cab Beside Engine trucks tend to operate in specialised conditions, for example dumper trucks have CBE designs

Engine

Most lorries use four stroke diesel engines. These engines have a turbo charger and an after-cooler. Some small to medium trucks can also use petrol engines.

Drivetrain

Smaller trucks will use transmissions similar to cars and SUV’s, however most large trucks will use a manual transmission without a synchroniser. This type of transmission requires the driver to double clutch when up shifting or down shifting but does save weight on overall truck design.

Frame

A lorry frame, sometimes known as a ladder frame consists of 2 parallel steal beams held together by cross members. They are almost always made of steel, although some trucks have aluminium to save weight.

Although trucks will vary between countries and even manufacturers the above list gives you a brief run down on the anatomy of a truck..

[ad_2]

Source by Ben Steele

Free Trade Zones in Spain – A Summary

[ad_1]

A free trade zone in Europe is an area within the EU separate from the rest of the territory in which all types of goods can be introduced irrespective of the quantity, nature, origin, source or place of arrival in as much as they respect the prohibitions and restrictions regarding public order, morality, public security, health etc. These goods can remain within the free trade zone until the interested parties decide what to do with the goods. During the course of time they remain within the zone, these goods are not subject to import duties or any other internal taxes or indeed any other of the applicable commercial measures. In this sense, they are essentially areas that for all intents and purposes are not considered to be part of the European Union

Generally speaking the largest of these areas tend to be in port areas where any number of companies set up in order to carry out their business availing at the same time of exemption benefits amongst others. They are therefore very often used by import-export companies but also companies in the assembly sector.

There are currently 4 free trade zones in Spain being Barcelona, Gran Canary, Vigo and Cadiz. If you are a company trading internationally and are thinking of setting up in one of these areas, it is worthwhile to consider the respective benefits of each in terms of such things as additional services etc.

It is also worth bearing in mind that the Canary Islands which is currently in a transition period also has a special tax regime which may provide other advantages for companies that trade internationally.

[ad_2]

Source by Thomas Leacy

Van and Truck Wraps For Drivers That Demand Attention

[ad_1]

It is not uncommon to see cars with various bumper stickers or decals talking about a variety of things. In today’s society vehicles are a marketers dream and people use them to talk about anything and everything. Some of the items are so outlandish that people have to stop in their track and take a look. However, just like any other form of advertisement people want to draw a reaction and the bigger the reaction the better. Full decorative graphics on trucks and vans have now joined the group of attention getters. People have begun to decorate their vehicles with various graphics in order to get the attention of the surrounding public and share their views or information.

Van and truck wraps are routinely used by businesses because they always want the public thinking about their brand name. Most people have probably noticed big trucks on the highway decorated with various advertisements representing the company. Some of these vehicles are decorated so uniquely that people have no choice but to take a closer look and figure out what the truck represents. For people who put the wraps on their vehicles they want any and all attention. They are one of the best ways to grab the most attention. It is pretty hard to completely ignore a van or truck that has a large graphic covering it. The great thing about this option is that people can get their entire vehicle covered or just part of their vehicle covered depending on the look they are going for. The designs are engineered to perfectly fit each vehicle so this gives the graphic a precise custom look.

Some people like to draw attention about certain topics. Global warming and recycling is a big topic so a eco-friendly advocate or group might have a custom graphic made for their vehicle that reminds the public of what they need to do to help protect the Earth. The purpose will be to gather as much attention as possible to the growing problem and make sure that people understand what they should be doing. Van and truck wraps do not have to be permanent and for those people who are just trying to publicize a particular event or idea once they have completed their campaign they can have it easily removed and not damage their vehicle. They are simply one of the best ways to make a bold statement and demand the surrounding attention.

[ad_2]

Source by Hayi Mansoor

Timber and Its Use in Commercial Truck Construction

[ad_1]

Many types of timber are used in commercial truck bodywork today, and it is used in a variety of different forms ranging from sections for framing, chipboard for partitions, to faced plywood for decorative panels. Manufactured timber panels are also used in conjunction with other materials such as aluminum and plastics to produce panels for special purposes which include heat and sound insulation and to improve resistance to general wear and the weather.

Some timbers are more suitable for vehicle bodywork than others because of their superior strength, resistance to wear, decay and fire, or appearance.

Although timber is used in many forms, it is all obtained from either soft wood trees or temperate or tropical hardwoods.

Softwoods.

There are a large number of softwood trees, which include many varieties of pine, fur, and spruce which make up about 90 per cent of all timbers used generally in the U.S.A and Europe. These trees are normally found in the northern hemisphere; most of them are cone bearing and evergreen, but there are some exceptions. In fact some types of softwoods are harder than hardwoods.

There is a good supply of softwoods and since less time is required to mature and they are easier to work they are generally cheaper than hardwoods. Softwoods are uses for the sides and floors of mineral carrying vehicles, since it is cheaper and easier to replace. It is also used for manufactured panels for other commercial vehicle bodies.

Hardwoods.

These are obtained from broad leaf trees, and there are over 2000 varieties including such well known types as oak, ash, teak and mahogany. All basal wood, which is much softer than softwoods, is in fact a hardwood, since it is the structure that decides the group not the texture.

Because the hardwoods take much longer to mature, are more difficult to obtain and work, and take much longer to season they are considerably more expensive. However, they are generally much stronger, more durable and have far more uses than softwoods.

Hardwoods are divided into two groups:-

1. Tropical. These are from trees found in Central Africa, India and South America and include the many different types of teak, mahogany and ebony.

2. Temperate. The varieties found in this group are oak, walnut, and ash are some of the temperate hardwoods found in U.S.A, Europe, Japan and Australia.

Hardwoods are used for framing and in some forms of veneer on panels for interior finishing. Also hardwoods such as ash are very suitable for curved framing members.

Manufactured Panels.

Plywood, block-board, chipboard, MDF and hardboard panels are often used instead of solid timber panels, and have many advantages. They can be obtained in larger sizes, are often stronger and are more stable, which means labor costs can be reduced when compared with other methods of covering large areas with equivalent tongue and groove jointed timber.

Plywood.

Plywood is made by gluing layers of veneer together at right angles to each other. This prevents splitting and greatly increases the strength of the panel. Curved members can also be produced by laying the veneers on a suitable mold or form before gluing.

Birch, ash, pine and fir are used in the manufacture of plywood but many other varieties are used for the face side of decorative panels. Plywood is obtainable in several thicknesses and sizes from which vehicle body floors can be made in one piece.

Block board.

There are a number of manufactured boards making use of solid timber core stock. One of these is block board and this consists of softwood glued together and faced with veneers of timber such as birch and mahogany. Large panels up to about 2 inches in thickness are produced and used in flooring and partitions.

Chipboard.

Chipboard is made from graded wood chips which are bonded together under pressure with synthetic resins and adhesives to form large strong panels 0.5 inch to 1 inch thick. These can be faced with many different materials to give painted, plastic or veneered surfaces. It has replaced solid timber for many purposes and because of the sizes manufactured it is a useful vehicle building material.

Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF).

MDF is manufactured by bonding wooden fibers together using glue, heat and pressure. It is a very adaptable material, but can only be used for interior bodywork. It must be sealed / painted as it gradually emits urea formaldehyde which is a known carcinogen and eye, throat and lung irritant. Proper safety procedures should always be used when working with this material in any way.

Hardboard.

This is another useful material which, because of its smaller thicknesses is very suitable for interior paneling. It is made from compressed timber fibers and usually has a smooth side with the reverse side having a rough or mesh finish.

Identification of timbers.

Since many types of timber are used in vehicle body work, it is possible to identify the more common ones such as oak and teak. Most types have distinct features and properties, and when samples are carefully examined it is often possible to identify a particular type. The following features should be considered:-

1. The general appearance.

  • i) Color – red, brown, yellow, white.
  • ii) Grain – close or open, straight or twisted.
  • iii) Texture – hard or soft, rough or smooth.
  • iv) Figure – shape of grain

2. Weight.

Weighing a sample is not a reliable test since the weight will depend on the moisture content and even the weights of samples may vary.

3. Use a hand lens.

Examination of the surface and end grain may reveal distinctive features.

4. Use a microscope.

The use of a microscope will enable a much closer examination of a thin section.

5. Dissolving a sample.

This will allow a microscopic examination of the shape and size of cells and fibers.

It should be remembered that features and color may be affected by the origin, rate of growth, and treatment since felling and many other factors.

Timber Defects.

One of the main disadvantages with timber is that defects may be present or may develop later. Some of these can be treated satisfactorily but others may require the component to be replaced. Some defects can be avoided completely by careful felling, conversion and seasoning, but a knowledge of the defects will enable you to make the best possible use of the timber that may be somewhat inferior.

Knots.

These are not always a serious defect since in many cases timber is covered with paint, panels or other disguises and in timbers such as knotty pine they are treated so as to improve the appearance. On the other hand knots should not be present in framing timbers, some decorative panels or other situations where strength or appearance may be affected. Knots are nearly always present and timber is often graded by the distribution and number of knots present. Some timbers have more than others, so careful selection is usually worthwhile.

Splits and shakes.

Shakes appear in various forms and are not always apparent until the tree is felled and sawn into logs. Heart and cup shakes may not present much of a problem but other types such as the ring and star shakes can result in valuable timber being unusable. During the drying out or seasoning the moisture leaves the timber more quickly from the ends than the sides. If this is too rapid other splits may occur.

Woodworm.

Many types of timber are affected by various insects, and chemical treatment may be effective. The alternative is to remove and burn the infected part and fit a new piece.

Dry rot.

Timber, which is stored in conditions which are damp or lack ventilation will lose its strength and become soft and spongy. If this happens timbers should be destroyed.

Warping.

This is a common defect and is caused by uneven shrinkage during seasoning. Softwoods are more prone to this, since softwoods contain more moisture than hardwoods. Warping can be reduced by sawing the logs radially instead of tangently. If you examine the end grain of planks it is possible to decide which way they have been cut from the log.

Causes of timber defects.

  • i) Storm damage.
  • ii) Exposed growing conditions.
  • iii) Inexperienced felling.
  • iv) Incorrect conversion.
  • v) Poor seasoning.
  • vi) Bad storage conditions.
  • vii) Careless selection and use.

Seasoning timbers.

Living trees may have a moisture content of between 50% and 100% and since this is too high the trees, when felled have to be seasoned or dried until the moisture content is reduced. Timber for vehicle body work should have a moisture content of 12 %- 15%. If the moisture content is too high the timber will dry out further and shrink after use. If it is too low the timber will absorb moisture from the atmosphere and possibly swell. To find the moisture content a sample of timber is weighed in its normal condition and then weighed again after it has been carefully dried out. The moisture content is then calculated as follows:-

The moisture Content of the timber (M.C. %) is calculated by taking the wet weight, subtracting the dry weight, and dividing the answer by the dry weight and multiplying by one hundred.

The method of drying out a piece of timber to obtain its moisture content is unnecessary in practice, because electrical instruments are used to give instant readings There are a number of reasons why timber should be properly treated (seasoned):-

  • I) It is much stronger than unseasoned timber.
  • II) There is less risk of decay and attack by insects.
  • III) Painting, staining and other finishing processes can be carried out successfully on seasoned timber.

We should remember that the cells in a piece of timber are like wooden buckets. Large amounts of water in the cavities and the walls, so it is essential for timber to be properly seasoned. After the trees have been felled, the logs are taken to the saw mill where they are converted or sawn into planks or other sections. Since this exposes a greater surface area to the atmosphere seasoning time is reduced. The method used to saw or convert the logs will also affect the shrinkage, warping or other timber defects discussed previously.

Air Drying.

The sawn timber is piled in stacks with sticks or wooden strips separating each layer. This allows the air to circulate freely around each piece. The top of the stack should be protected from the sun and the rain, and since moisture will dry out more quickly from the ends of the planks, these are sometimes protected to prevent end splits. The air drying method is cheap and often leads to better quality timber, but it is a slow method, taking up to several years. The timber is liable to staining and insect attack and the moisture content is very rarely less than the surrounding area.

Kiln Drying.

This is a much quicker method, which results in timber with a more closely controlled moisture content. The timber is placed on trolleys and put in a kiln where the temperature and humidity are controlled. Air circulation may be by natural draft or forced by electric fans. Artificially seasoned timbers may be more brittle and other defects may occur, but the reduced time required is big advantage. Some timbers are air dried for a period before being kiln dried.

Timber Storage.

Seasoning timber processes may take several years and the timber may be stored for a further period before it is used. In order to keep it in good condition certain precautions must be observed:-

  • i) To prevent staining the timber should be protected from chemicals and other foreign matter, e.g. soot.
  • ii) Excessive rain and heat should be avoided and if stored indoors sufficient ventilation should be provided.
  • iii) It should be stacked in a proper manner to prevent boards becoming twisted or warped. The supporting blocks should be directly under each other otherwise the timber will begin to bend.

Wood preservatives suitable for use prior to painting.

This type of preservative is usually of a low viscosity and can normally be used prior to the application of coach or decorative enamels and their painting process. It can be applied by brush, spray or dipping and is normally allowed overnight to dry before application of the above mentioned paint systems. This promotes good adhesion and helps to reduce the problems of timber disease and rot.

Before using this type of product it is essential to make sure that it does not contain any waxes or silicone additives.

Priming of timbers.

Before the priming of any timber it is important to check that the timber is clean, dry and free from any oil residues. The timber should be thoroughly flatted with a suitable grade of glass paper and degreased with a ‘lint-free’ cloth which has been dampened with white spirits or a suitable solvent.

Priming should then be carried out using a suitable primer. It is essential when priming that all areas are adequately primed. This includes timber ends and tongue and grooves, where areas are to be covered with metal fitments or body sections. The reason for this is to prevent the ingress of moisture which would result in paint flaking.

Timbers containing knots should be treated in the following manner, prior to priming:-

I) The knots should be burnt with a blowtorch to extract surplus resin.

II) The timber should be thoroughly rubbed down and degreased as above.

III) Each knot should be treated with one or two coats of shellac, and allowed sufficient time to dry.

IV) Prime the timber as above.

Wood finishes.

These are non-pigmented finishes. Among those available are wax polishes, sealer coats, long and short oil varnishes, alkyd varnishes, yacht varnishes, single pack polyurethanes and teak oil. All these are suitable for brush application. For spray application only, use the following – cellulose lacquers, two pack polyurethanes, two pack catalyzed lacquers and single and two pack epoxies. The requirements of a wood finish are:-

  • i) Color flexibility.
  • ii) Build.
  • iii) Life expectancies.
  • iv) Acid or alkali resistance.

Sealers and wax polishes.

Sealers – These are cellulose based.

Waxes – These are petroleum based. One example is chilled wax which is fairly quick drying, gives little discoloration to the wood, and produces a good average finish.

Waxes – Silicone based. These waxes are very quick drying and produce a hard waterproof finish. The wood needs to be sealed before use, and it tends to give it a cloudy appearance.

Waxes – Beeswax. This is a natural product from honeycomb which has been rendered down with white spirits. It can be applied by brush or rag and produces a good finish that can be re-polished.

Long oil varnishes.

These contain more oil than resin in its formulation. The resin used is usually an alkyd or fossil resin. Long oil varnishes are flexible, due to the amount of oil and have good durability, making it ideal for exterior usage. It also has a fairly clear finish. Polyurethanes are used for wood which is left in exposed conditions, but tends to be rather soft for interior use. The life expectancy is two to two and a half years, and a four coat system is recommended, i.e. apply one very thin (diluted) coat followed by three full coats.

Short oil Varnishes.

These varnishes are quick drying but tend to be rather brittle. They dry to a hard finish and are more suitable for interior use, as they do not have the flexibility for exterior use.

Alkyd varnishes.

These are clear quick drying varnishes which are suitable for indoor and outdoor use. They are popular as a varnish for vehicle bodies, and are also applied as a four-coat system.

Teak oil.

This oil is easy to apply, but liberal coatings are required to restore the natural color of the timber.

French polishing.

This is based on shellac and methylated spirits. It is quick drying and causes the timber to darken. It is applied using a pad, made of a packed piece of wool or gauze, covered by a piece of cotton cloth. It is however, brittle and easily damaged by water and white spirits. It is mainly used in antique furniture.

Nitrocellulose lacquers.

These lacquers come in two types, the pre-catalyzed and the nitro-urethanes. These contain amino and polyurethane resins respectively.

Conclusion.

There is no doubt of the advantages of using timber in commercial truck bodywork today. Certainly other materials have and will come along to try and replace it, but for its versatility and availability it is still unrivalled and will be for a long time to come.

Knowing your timbers and how to look after them will ensure the maximum life expectancy from your truck or commercial vehicle.

[ad_2]

Source by Nigel Le Monnier

The Problem With Spray on Bed Liners

[ad_1]

Spray on bed liners finish the looks of a pickup bed probably better than any other bed coating option. Especially now that the bed liner coating color can match the paint of your pickup. However, bed liners come with several problems. If you’re thinking of getting a spray liner or already have one, here are a few ideas to consider.

Permanent may not always be best. Sure, it’s a plus to get a liner that lasts as long as the truck, especially with a life-time warranty. But that in no ways means you get a liner that can’t be damaged. See, the guarantee just means the liner will be repaired.

Repair means a respray with all the accompanying hassles and time spent. And in the meantime you drive a pickup with a damaged liner and maybe chances of a damaged bed too. The real key to spray liner durability is the thickness of the coating. That means liner material can be torn away and worn away and still the damage may not get to the bed itself.

Another thought you may not want to think about is how that liner gets on the truck. The only way the liner paint will stay on is with proper surface preparation. That means the paint gets sanded very aggressively. It all but gets destroyed before the liner coat goes on. Picture this. You get this new truck with the carefully applied factory paint coating and then you pay this guy to take an air sander and sand the paint almost off. Then you spray a paint coating on over that.

That’s not necessarily a bad thing, it’s just a painful thought. That’s what it takes to get that “permanent” liner.

Damage to truck beds comes as more than just scratches too. Dents may do more harm than scrapes can really. Dents certainly take more to repair than a few scratches. Dent protection is another way that liners pay for themselves. Spray coatings usually add nearly a full quarter inch to the bed thickness. That coat includes rubber texture material as well as fast hardening paint as well. That thickness absorbs bumps while warding off damage.

For looks a sprayed liner may be unbeatable, but for protection a cheap alternative avoids some of the problems built in with spray.

Cheap rubber mats protect from impact better and are easily removed. With permanent liners, really nasty hauling makes a mess of the bed and you have no choice but to either clean it out or leave it a mess. But with temporary liners, it’s an easy task to slip the mat in or out when you need it or when you don’t.

Another consideration with spray on bed liners arises when you get the price tag. A professional coating costs you big. That’s a real reason to look at other options or at least to carefully protect the liner if you already have one.

[ad_2]

Source by Al Bullington