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If you are thinking of buying a used mobile home, there are things you need to watch out for. Buying a mobile home is not like buying a regular stick built. You need to know what to watch out for before you buy a used mobile home. Here are 10 things to watch out for when buying a used mobile home. These tips will guide you to make the right decision and/or how to negotiate in your best interest. Better safe than sorry. My seven years of selling used mobile homes has taught me a lot. I am now passing on that information to you so that you can make an educated choice.

1. Age. If your finances are tight, do not buy anything older than 1977. That is the cutout time for good financing and also the year a lender can determine if the used mobile home is a HUD home. 1976 and older were registered with DMV and not built to code. Therefor, lenders requires a 20% down on a 1976 or older. The term will be no longer than 15 years and the rate will be somewhere around 11-12%. That is a lot to pay. 1977 or newer requires only 10% down, you can get 20 years of financing and the rate is 1-2% lower. That is a much better deal. If the home is newer, the rate can be as low as 8%. Preferable, look for a home that is no more than 15 years old.

2. Park. Not all parks are approved by the lenders. Before making an offer to purchase, get yourself loan approved for that particular park. If the space rent is too high or if there are too many foreclosures in the park, lenders might say no to financing.

3. Rent control. Is it or is it not? Most parks are but some are not. If not, make sure yo fully understand what kind of yearly increase the park will impose on you. You might not mind paying that extra increase per year but each time the space rent is raised, the value of your mobile home WILL go down. Its like a car, depreciating. Still, it beats renting an apartment with people above, below, left and right.

4. Crime. Does the park have a security program? Is the park patrolled regularly by a security patrol company? If not, you probably should stay away. Yes, it is true, all residents have to follow the rules and regulations but if there is no security, many things can happen. A security patrol is a deterrent, crime will go elsewhere. Call the park manager and inquire. You can also call the local police office and ask for a crime report. Strongly recommended.

5. Pets. What is the parks policy? Your 80 ldb golden retriever might have a VERY hard time getting approved. Same for your pitt bull or any other so called “vicious breed”. Most parks will NOT approve them. There is only one park in the Santa Clarita Valley that will approve a large dog, even two. However, no “vicious breeds”. How stupid. Recently, I had a dog trainer with good credit, a large down payment and a German shepherd. That dog was the most well trained German shepherd but no, considered “vicious”. So are dobermans, boxers, pinchers, chows and a couple of more. Inquire with the park BEFORE looking at any used (or new) mobile home. Save yourself the time (and your agents) by finding out first.

6. Neighbors. Most people are nice. However, since you are going to be living in tight quarters (most mobile home spaces are small and set very closely together), go and talk to the neighbors. Both the ones next door and some a few doors down. The ones a few doors down are the ones that will tell you what REALLY is going on. Maybe the couple next door do not get along any more. Maybe there is an alcohol problem. Maybe the kids play too loud. You need to know. Drive by in the evening, hang around for a while. Do the same for the weekend. Spend an hour on a Saturday night, driving around the mobile home park, you will then now if this is a place for you.

7. Managers. Do they do a great job? Do they care? Do they make the residents follow the rules and regulations? Do they arrange get togethers every now and then? Any holiday dinners? Do they publish a newsletter to keep you updated? Do you feel welcome in their office? Most managers take great pride in their park and are happy to try to help you. Make sure that is the case.

8. Trash. An old toilet sitting at the end of a car port? Knee-high weeds? A car jacked up and being worked on in a carport? You do not want that. What you should want, is a clean, manicured park community where the residents take pride in their mobile homes and keeps their surroundings clean. A carport is not supposed to be used for storage (or a back yard). A shed is where you keep your excess belongings, period.

9. Mobile home values. Holding steady? Going up? Declining? Have your Realtor find out for you. Buying a used mobile home is very much like buying a used car. A seller can set any price but is it worth it? Please do not over-pay. If you need to finance your used mobile home, you are then in a much safer position. You are then required to pay for an appraisal to find out the REAL value of the mobile home. However, if you are planning to buy your mobile home for cash, watch out. No appraisal is required but I would recommend you pay the $400 to the appraiser. It could save you thousands. The choice is yours.

10. Health and Safety. What condition is the mobile home in? The basics should all be there. If not, it is the sellers responsibility to have it done. That includes;

A. Smoke alarms. Each bedroom needs one, that is the code. And, it needs to be working!

B. Water heater. Needs to be double-strapped and not with those tiny metal bands that has little wholes in them. Is there a pressure release valve? If it where to over-flow, does the pipe go underneath? Should not. It needs to extend out to the side of the skirting. Is the water heater closet dry-walled? Has to be. Any leaks?

C. Steps. Are they solid? No rips in the carpeting (trip hazard)? What about the railing? Is it loose? Can not be. How far apart are the rails? Should not be more than 4″ so that a small child can NOT get stuck in between.

D. Cooling system. Does it work? It is not really a health and safety issue but if it were me, I would insist on it or ask for a reduction in price. Who wants to live in a used mobile home, maybe with metal siding as well, and summer comes around and it is 105 degrees outside.

E. The furnace. When was it last serviced and how dirty is the pad? Take a good look and make sure it works. Have someone come and take a look at it.

F. Plumbing. Any leaks? Should not. Run all faucets and look underneath.

G. Electrical. Does all the outlets and the switches work? Make sure they do. GFI’s? You do not want the risk of being electrocuted. Both kitchen and bathrooms needs GFI plugs.

H. Roof. Any leaks? Look around carefully to see if there are any water stains in the ceilings or around the upper walls. How old is the roof?

I. Earthquake bracing. Does it have it? Bring a flashlight and open up the access door in the skirting. There should be (on a double wide mobile home), two in the front and two in the back. Compare them to the regular piers and jacks. Are they beefier? Bolted to the I-beam? They should be. Surprisingly enough, there are still some used mobile homes out there who do NOT have them. On top of that, it is not considered a health and safety issue and it is perfectly legal to sell a used mobile home WITHOUT them!

If you do buy a used mobile home without earthquake bracing and later on decides that it was not the smartest idea, a contractor will charge you about $5000 to install them. Not cheap. If it does not have it, ask for a price reduction and then order the escrow company to set aside $5000 to the contractor. At the close of escrow, your contractor will come out and install them for you. If you can have him install it the day BEFORE close of escrow even better. Because, if you just take a price reduction, you are going to be so busy moving and exited about your purchase of your mobile home. You’ll “forget” about the bracing and end up buying new furniture instead!

Ideally, you should hire a health and safety inspector who KNOWS how to inspect a mobile home

8. Once you are park-approved, it is time to schedule your health & safety inspection. You are free to use any licensed health & safety inspector for your inspection or I can recommend several to you. Besides the health & safety inspection , I would strongly recommend you have an electrician look over the home. Sometimes, a regular h&s inspector can not really know what’s going on. These inspections are not free and depending on who it is, they all charge slightly different. When we go to see the inspectors at your future home, please bring your check bock. Once the inspection is over, the inspector will go over his findings with you.

9. It is now 24-48 hours after that the health & safety inspection took place and now we are holding the report in our hands, going through it together. It is the sellers responsibility to cover any health & safety issues, such as electrical, plumbing, roof, smoke alarms, double-strapped water heater and so on. Anything cosmetic is just that, cosmetic and the seller does not have to do anything. However, you could always try to negotiate if you strongly feel there is something you want the seller to do and of course, I am there for you, every step of the way.

10. Termites? Pesky little critters and they are usually EVERYWHERE! We would absolutely want to have the home inspected for that too. We will get a written report with a diagram, showing their findings. Anything that they find that is classified as a SECTION I, has to be taken care of and hopefully, the seller is willing to do that. If not, it’s on you. I have a very strong opinion in regards to termites. That is, if I were buying a home, why should I have to pay for somebody else termite problem? I never lived there. I did not invite them. So, why pay? On the other hand, if I got the home at a very good deal, I would probably pay for it. It is your decision and hopefully we will not run in to this problem if the seller gladly pays. SECTION 2 are recommendations from the termite inspector of things that will need attention in the future and are not items that has to be taken care of now. Termite inspections are paid through escrow.

11. Time to order your appraisal. An appraisal will be necessary if you are going to finance your purchase, the lender will require it. This is an expense that can not be financed and you will have to pay it upfront either by meeting the appraiser at your future home or by simply writing the check to the appraiser and let me handle it for you.

12. Your loan conditions. When you first got pre-approved, we submitted certain papers to the lender. There might also be additional paperwork they are asking for and whatever that is, now is the time for us to do that.

13. Your home has now been appraised and hopefully, it did appraise. If not, we might need to either re-negotiate with the seller or you might have to come up with a larger down payment, whatever is the case or we might have to look for another home for you.

14. Your loan documents are now ready to be signed and there will also be additional paperwork from escrow to sign, such as hazardous disclosures. We live in earthquake country, there are massive rains sometimes and we get flooded. You might be close to a prison or maybe an airport. These things are hazardous, we all live with them. Escrow wants you to know this,and you already do. When you go to sign all this papers, please bring your cashiers check for the balance of the down payment. Before you do, I will give you an estimated closing statement so that you know how much to bring. There will be an overage, meaning escrow will ask for a little bit more, just in case. We do not want to delay closing escrow because they are a few dollars short (maybe they needed to over-night a package twice).

15. Time for us to do a final inspection of the home. We want to make sure that everything that needed to be taken care of, has been done. We will do a final walk-through together.

16. You are now going to go to your appointment with the park to sign your lease, read and sign the park rules & regulations and pay your space rent and deposit. This takes about 1 ½ hour. If this is in the middle of the month, escrow will pro-rate the space rent. Parks do not take partial payment, only full. The deposit is refundable after paying your space rent on time for 12 consecutive months. You can then, in writing, ask for it back.

17. The loan has now funded, the money has been received by escrow, every single piece of paper has been signed by all parties involved and escrow is now closed. CONGRATULATIONS! YOU ARE NOW A HOME OWNER.

18. I will give you your final closing statement from escrow and possibly a check too, together with the keys to the home, TIME TO START MOVING IN!

Again, congratulations. Let me know when the movers are coming, I want to order you some take-out and something to drink, you are going to be too busy and besides, who has time to cook while moving.

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Source by Eva Liland

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Selling replacement dinnerware has many factors involved in setting a piece or pattern’s “retail value.” Just as a car dealership is generally able to get a much higher resale price for a used vehicle than an individual could, selling replacement china has the same economic principles.

A used car’s value is based on overall condition, mileage, reliability, brand name and consumer demand. The better the condition (nothing is broken and there are no major repairs in its history which is true for the car OR the china in this example), the lower the mileage (how often was the car driven/china used – general wear & tear), the more reliable the vehicle (how durable is the china), the brand or maker (manufacturer) AND its model (pattern) and how many people are actually looking to purchase that particular car (china pattern and/or particular piece) ALL go into determining its overall resale retail value.

If you were to sell your car, chances are VERY good that you will get A LOT less than a car dealership would get – the dealership has invested tons of money into building a client list and advertising. They will have more “traffic” – that is, a dealership has more potential buyers than any one individual.

A car dealership has also established itself as an EXPERT. People know that when they buy from a reputable dealer, the will get the EXACT car that is promised in the EXACT shape that it is advertised to be in. If there are issues, the consumer KNOWS that they can go back to the dealer to handle any issues that may have been overlooked. All car dealerships must adhere to some type of limited warranty, lemon laws and the like. Also, a consumer knows that they have not only purchased a car from the dealership, but along with that they now have a relationship with that dealership – a place that they can return to again and again for on-going maintenance. These two points are generally the reasons why most people will pay premium prices to a dealer when purchasing a used car.

A consumer that purchases a vehicle from an unknown individual generally has little or no recourse if the car was either intentionally OR unintentionally misrepresented. Usually the only protection a consumer would have is to bring a civil lawsuit against the seller.

In the China Replacement resale market, these same points hold true – people are willing to pay more to a company that stands behind their inventory, offers no-hassle return policies and has a standardized condition grading system.

China Replacement Firms that sell “full price, first quality” dinnerware have inspected the dinnerware and have certified EACH AND EVERY piece to be in as close to BRAND NEW condition as is physically possible based on the age, scarcity and durability of that particular piece.

These firms also know what each manufacturer’s “seconds marks” (defects, flaws, irregularities) look like and will NEVER sell any “second” quality piece at “first” quality pricing.

Oh Goody, my set or item is selling for TONS of money on eBay and/or Replacements, Ltd!!!!

MAYBE, but possibly not – you cannot ascertain the actual selling price of something from the asking price!!!

MOST replacement dinnerware does NOT sell (on eBay or elsewhere) for more than what the leading China Replacement Retail Establishments are asking. That said China Replacement Firms will price their items based on the number of clients they have for a particular pattern, how many total pieces they have currently on hand for each particular piece type and THEIR realized consumer demand for EACH piece.

The eBay marketplace however, fluctuates madly; generally valuing items on the overall consumer demand and the item’s perceived “collectability”.

As an example, a pattern that was only produced for one year may bring MUCH higher prices on eBay than a China Replacement Firm would charge as they may have none or only a handful of registered clients – they may not even have much, if any pieces, in stock of that particular pattern.

Additionally, pieces that are in stock with high retail prices ARE NOT NECESSARILY “flying off the shelves.” It is highly probable that some higher priced serving pieces (as well as place setting pieces) have been in their inventory for YEARS – with only a handful (if that even) of actual completed SALES.

When researching what “your set is worth.” It is important to understand the difference between what current eBay prices are ASKING and what the pieces have ACTUALLY sold for. MANY, MANY auctions and Store Listings end with NO buyers. MANY Store listings end up selling for a “Best Offer” which can sometimes be CONSIDERABLY less than the seller’s original asking price.

As in the general retail market, the Dinnerware resale market has plummeted as well. It does not make sense to value your China based on ANY sales prior to the past two or three months, as prices fluctuate wildly based on the current economic climate. MANY items are CURRENTLY valued at 50% LESS than they sold for just one or two years ago.

An item is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, on any particular day and at any one particular location. Not one cent more and not one cent less.

A good rule of thumb HAD BEEN that a seller with a GOOD online reputation could get 50% to 75% of retail China Replacement prices on eBay.

In THIS market, the general rule of thumb is that a seller, who is willing to run MULTIPLE auctions or put items in their “Store”, can hope to get 25% to 30% of retail prices for their dinnerware.

Because it takes longer to “move their inventory,” sellers are getting hit with more initial fees and higher final fees. Sellers are also sitting on their inventory longer and thus may come up against storage space issues.

It generally costs a seller about 12% – 17% of the final purchase price in fees. Once you add additional costs for shipping supplies, the extra pictures required and the time involved in selling dinnerware; the fees to sell an item are about 20%.

Why Can’t I Just Sell It Myself on eBay?

You can, OR you could employ a Trading Assistant. HOWEVER, either way, you will not get your money all at once. Selling an entire set of dinnerware at once on eBay is A VERY BAD IDEA. As the quantity of items you are selling increases, your average selling prices per piece will DECLINE DRAMATICALLY.

For one reason, MOST people are shopping to REPLACE broken pieces – VERY FEW eBay buyers think to themselves – “oh I think I want to buy a whole new set of china today”. Consumers purchase BRAND NEW sets at Department Stores and Retail Outlets.

Additionally: “Shipping 50+ pieces of china is a COMPLETE NIGHTMARE.” BELIEVE ME – I KNOW.

In order to actually get anywhere CLOSE to the best prices on eBay, you would need to split out EACH and EVERY piece type and sell them individually.

HOWEVER, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES SPLIT THE SALT & PEPPER SET!

You should sell the dinner plates and the higher priced place setting pieces individually, but group together 2-4 piece sets of the lesser demand pieces.

When listing each item you need to accurately measure each piece and describe ANY and ALL flaws. You will need to take AT LEAST one picture of each item (to get higher prices, multiple pictures are usually a necessity).

Once you have started splitting your set into small sets you will quickly see that the “better pieces” will sell first. You will most likely be left with the lower priced items – the small bread plates, the cereal bowls and the cups and saucers. The creamer and sugar bowl will also be difficult to sell; however the teapot and/or coffee pot will sell almost immediately.

After each sale, eBay and PayPal will take their piece of the pie (eBay has now BANNED off-line payment methods.) You will need to either accept PayPal, have your own merchant account and accept credit cards directly or participate in another “eBay accepted” on-line payment solution (they do NOT accept Amazon, Yahoo or Google payment solutions.)

Next, you will need to safely package and ship each item. You will need a LOT of bubble wrap, packing peanuts and packaging tape. Just as an FYI, if you use newspaper you will NOT have a repeat buyer and most likely the buyer will trash your detailed seller ratings and feedback. eBay uses both your Detailed Seller ratings and Feedback ratings to not only determine your fees, but also where your item ends up in a “best match” search result (near the top of the list or buried on page 14 of the returned found set) and whether or not eBay will even allow you to list new items. Welcome to the new eBay – selling just got a WHOLE LOT harder!!

You can always contact a Trading Assistant who can handle all the eBay headaches, BUT a Trading Assistant typically charges a 40% commission on the FINAL selling price PLUS all the fees. As an example, if you sell a $100 item on eBay yourself, you will probably end up paying out around $20 in expenses and fees. If you have a Trading Assistant sell it for you, you will pay the Trading Assistant $40 and will also be charged $12 to $17 in fees. REMEMBER, this $100 item may well be “worth” anywhere from $200 to $400 retail.

Set Realistic Expectations for Yourself

So now that you have decided you want to sell your dinnerware set, you need to take a realistic look at what your set is worth. First off, check out on-line what the RETAIL price would be – NOW FORGET THAT NUMBER!!!

Seriously, or you will beat your head against the wall.

Check out the COMPLETED auctions on eBay and see what your stuff is ACTUALLY selling for. Items in RED did NOT sell. Pay attention to the total number of bids and how many visitors looked at the successful listings. This gives you an idea of what the ACTUAL demand for the items tend to be. DO NOT use the China Replacement Firms completed auctions to get a feel for market prices. There are retail prices on eBay too – don’t be fooled into thinking you could get close – you can’t.

If NOTHING comes up when you search, that could be a GOOD thing OR a BAD thing. It is very hard to predict.

When there are completed listings check and see what the overall success rate is. If only 2 out of 20 or more listings sold, that is generally VERY BAD. Low sell through rates are usually an indication of low market demand. ALSO, it is REALLY important to note what selling format the majority of the items that sold were listed under. If the majority of the items that sold were out of eBay stores that usually indicates low demand and slow turnover.

Here’s a little secret – MOST sellers put items in their stores only AFTER an item was unsuccessful at auction.

Now, you need to decide how you are going to sell it:

• Put it all up on Craigsist and hope… if you sell it for super cheap, it will eventually sell. When I say super cheap, I’m talking LESS than $1 per piece!!!
• Sell it yourself on eBay – take that plunge, roll up your sleeves and start listing. You PROBABLY can sell the good stuff, but get ready to sell it piece by agonizing piece.
• Have a Trading Assistant sell it and pay you as it sells (most Trading Assistants take possession of your stuff – so at least it will be GONE). You pay through the nose for this service.
• Sell it as a box lot at auction – local auction houses may take your set and try to auction it off. Some auction houses will allow you set a reserve minimum price – but many will not. Take your chances and you will also have to pay the seller’s premium (this premium is typically 35% to 40% of total sales).
• Have a yard sale. Be prepared to sell for super, super cheap. Yard Sale people DO NOT CARE that the set was “handed down from your Great Grandmother and it came over on the Mayflower.”
• Sell it at a swap meet or Flea Market. You could probably get a little higher premium (not much though) over a yard sale, but you will also need to rent the space.
• Sell to a China Replacement Firm. You will need to contact them, package and ship the pieces that they are buying (more than likely they will NOT buy everything) and AFTER they have inspected your items you will get a check mailed to you in 10-14 days. DO NOT EXPECT to get the full amount of their offer price unless your pieces are in EXCEPTIONAL condition. You will be left with the items they were not purchasing at all and if you want your “rejected” stuff back, you will have to pay for the return shipping.
• Sell it to a local China Replacement Dealer. Generally the Dealer will come to your house /storage unit, pay you cash, wrap it up and take it away. It usually takes an hour or so to inspect and pack your stuff. The Dealer will generally ask you to count the number of each piece type you have, the manufacturer and pattern (if you know what it is) and the overall condition. Most Dealers will make you a ballpark offer over the phone or via email based on YOUR descriptions. However, once they actually come to see your set, they will grade the condition themselves and will give you a final purchase price based on the ACTUAL overall condition, correct piece types and what they are ultimately able to sell the set for themselves.

As you can see there are several ways to sell your china and dinnerware, the choice is yours based on how much time and effort YOU are willing to put into the actual selling process.

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Source by Deborah Henry

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Bad credit score may cause hassles for car buyers. BHPH car dealerships offer purchasers with bad credit score access to autos that they could not typically qualify for. Buy here pay here car dealerships will finance your car loan via their dealer. Instead of acquiring approved for a car loan via a lender, purchasers acquire and repay the loan via the buy here pay here car dealership.

There is nothing like the liberty and opportunity that having your own car gives you. For car purchasers with bad credit, BHPH car dealerships might be the only option. If banks have turned you down for a car loan checkout this website to find buy here pay here car dealerships near you. They know that low credit can stand in the way of getting a car, and they are here to help.

Hopes of owning a car can be ruined within instantly after many lenders have declined your car loan application. With the difficult fiscal times that we are upon us in the United States tons of car loan applications are rejected on a daily basis. The banks and finance companies use the credit scores to estimate whether an application is dependable to repay an auto loan. BHPH car dealerships can help high-quality persons who are having a challenging time. Banks and finance companies will not see beyond the credit score in an effort to help a person get a car.

Here are the pros and cons:

Pro: Buy here pay here car dealerships are readily accessible and increasing in popularity and are the quickest growing part of the auto sales market. They can found in all 50 states including: California, Florida, New York, Texas, Pennsylvania, and Illinois. Some cities with the most are: New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Houston, Atlanta, and Chicago have over a dozen buy here pay here car dealerships.

Pro: Buy here pay here car dealerships specialize in car buyers with bad credit. BHPH dealerships get the financial details out of the way first and aid buyers in determining how much you can practically afford to pay for a car. This is more advantageous than typical car dealerships that will first attempt to sell you a car only to discover later that you can’t get a car loan with bad credit.

Con: Buy here pay here dealerships are limiting in that the buyer can only pick from the cars that they have in inventory on at their dealership at that time. The amount of the buyer’s down payment will most likely determine the amount they are able to finance. You most likely have to choose a car that falls inside a particular price range.

Pro: Buy here pay here car dealerships will most likely pledge to finance buyers. This eliminates buyers the time of filling out car loan applications at dealers and being rejected over and over.

Con: Buy here pay here dealerships charge elevated interest rates than a bank would for a car loan. For purchasers with bad credit, BHPH dealerships could be their only source.

So is it an advantageous idea to obtain a car from BHPH dealerships? If you do have bad credit score and you need dependable transportation on a restricted finances then they are just want you need. If you do not have bad credit score buyers will find that a typical car dealer could be capable to offer you a more advantageous choice, a decreased interest rate, and a decreased monthly payment.

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Source by Andy Schepper

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Glass coating is an inorganic material made of a Silica or a Quartz-Silane-based compound. It is used to protect the painted surfaces of car bodies. It is less likely to stain. Unlike traditional wax, its luster and protection can be long-lasting once it is applied. This is because they do not contain materials that oxidize (bind with oxygen). Oxidation weakens the original protection and shine of many car products, thus rendering the car surface prone to damage. It is easy to maintain, provides clean, shiny surfaces and long-lasting protection.

What is the difference between coating and wax?

The main component of wax is carnauba wax oil, which is extracted from palm trees. In recent years, some waxes have added petroleum. Higher quality waxes contain more carnauba oil. Carnauba wax is oil based, so it has water-repellent characteristics and can obscure scratches. However, there are also disadvantages. Waxes can easily become dirty because oil has a high viscosity (thick and sticky). This means dirt can stick to it. Also, wax can easily melt and deteriorate because it is sensitive to heat. Sunshine or engine heat can promote deterioration and cause wax to melt off the car’s surface. Wax can also break down in the rain or when the car is washed.

On the other hand, coating has a chemical composition of silicon, silica, fluorine and titanium. These molecules form a film coating that penetrates between the molecules of the car’s painted surface, creating a very powerful protective layer. Resistant to dirt, heat and rain, coating’s protection and shine will last over a longer period than wax.

There are various kinds of coatings that range in application complexity from simple, which any consumer can apply, to products for professional use only.

During its application, if the car’s surface is dirty and rough, materials will not adhere to car body paint, so surface preparation before application is important.

Types of Glass Coatings

Glass-based coatings can be broadly divided into two categories: quartz-silane based coatings and silica-based coatings.

The quartz-silane-based glass coating, also known as “completely cured glass film type” achieves very high gloss and strong durability. It protects the car body by creating a cured coating of silica on the car’s surface. However, it takes about three weeks for the coating to be fully cured, which is a drawback. It is also expensive because it takes a long time for the product to be formulated.

The silica-based glass coating, also known as “glass fiber type “, also makes a film, coating the surface of the car body. It is fixed to a silicon polymer molecule. It is an easy formulation and, therefore, is costs less to produce. However, its durability and water repellency is inferior compared to the quartz-silane-based.

In addition, some of the fluorine-based coatings, such as Teflon, are used to coat car bodies. They are excellent in durability. However, they are inferior compared to glass coatings and more expensive to formulate. As a result, glass coatings are on the cutting edge of technology’s focus of exploration.

A Glass Coating Hybrid

Currently, there is debate about whether hydrophilic (attracts water) products are more effective than hydrophobic (repels water) products for car care. Glass is hydrophilic. The new types of glass coatings are hybrids, adding a silicone resin layer to the existing glass layer to change the hydrophilic trait of glass to hydrophobic, thus creating a strong water repellant product.

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Source by Keiichi Suzuki

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All vehicles in the US are required to be registered, by law, before being driven through public spaces. This needs to be renewed on a yearly basis and those who break the law are subject to a fine and possibly imprisonment.

The registering of a vehicle basically means that in return for paying a fee you are now free to drive the automobile on public roads. It is provided only if you have insurance for the vehicle and is based on several factors including the year, make and model of the car.

The actual process of obtaining registration may differ in each state. However, the most common documents that will have to be produced at the time of registration are the title to the car, proof of insurance and a bill of sale. Many states will refuse to register a automobile without these being supplied by the current owner of the automobile.

When you purchase an automobile, you become legally responsible for the payment of any monies owed on the vehicle, as well as associated fees and charges. This is why anyone selling a car privately is suggested to consumers to record the transaction with an auto bill of sale form. This will provide proof that the vehicle has been transferred to a new owner and that the new owner is now responsible for any of the above fees and charges.

Although the process of registering your vehicle may seem expensive and troublesome, it is however a necessary part of car ownership and will protect you against various types of fraud associated with your automobile.

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Source by T Potter

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How do they operate? What can they offer the general public? These are just a couple of the main question people have in relation to auto salvage yards. Here in this article we will explore a bit about them.

Auto salvage yards are known by many names such as, scrap yard, junkyard, wrecking yard, wreck yard, auto recycling centre, breakers yard , to name a few of the most common names.

They operate in a fairly simple manner. When a vehicle is wrecked (light damage or beyond repair) or decommissioned from being a usable vehicle. The Junk Yard will purchase said vehicle and break the vehicle into its main component parts that are still operable. These parts are then sold on as used auto parts to the public, garages and body shops. Mostly these parts are used in repairs of other road going vehicles. The idea behind this is that the used auto parts are at a much lower cost than new parts. From the Auto Junk Yards point of view, a vehicles sum of it components are more valuable than the overall wrecked or decommissioned vehicle as a whole.

The most common and requested parts are often removed from the vehicle and stored in the salvage yards warehouse. Other more unusual parts are often left on the vehicles and removed upon request. Once a vehicle has been deemed to not have any further usable parts, the remainder is sold as scrap metal mainly to metal recycling centres. This ensures every possible part is used and all other parts are recycled. While Wrecking yards are often seen as dirty operations the overall effect is very green ensuring the most is made from waster and the remainder is sent for re-cycling.

A lot of people prefer use such an environmentally friendly system, as using used vehicle parts which are already manufactured and work to the original manufacturer’s specifications, will reduces pollution and expense.

Most Auto Wrecking Yards work on a local basis providing their goods into the local community, but some of the larger Wrecking yards will provide shipping across all the states, this is especially useful for rarer vehicle models or classic autos, where parts new or used are very hard to come by.

There are some great advantages to using used auto parts, the main one being they save you money on repairs. Give your local yard a call today.

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Source by Trebor F.

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When we think of life expectancy… a chair stair lift is the furthest thing from our minds. As a matter of fact, for most of us, until just a few years ago, it probably never crossed our minds. According to experts, there are over 7.1 million persons using home accessibility features in the United States. With some of the most common features being raised toilets seats, hand rails, ramps, widened door entrances, adapted door locks, lowered counters, slip-resistant floors and chair stair lifts. With the largest segment of the population being baby boomers, we can easily understand such an astronomical number.

How long should you expect your chair stair lift to work properly before hauling it off to the city dump? Well that all depends. It depends first on if you purchased it new or if you purchased it used. Buying a chair lift is like buying a car. It is possible to buy a used car that gives you ten long wonderful years without you changing the timing belt or the oil.( if I were you I would not try that) On the other hand, you can purchase a used car and if you didn’t know any better, you would have thought that the car salesmen went down to Fred’s Sanford’s Garage, splashed on a fresh coat of paint, switched out the rims and sold it to you.

When you purchase a new product there are some benefits that may not be an option with a used lift. When purchasing a new stair lift the option of purchasing insurance and warranties are readily available. While you still will want to be sure to carefully weigh all of your options, a few more dollars in insurance or warranties could potentially save you thousands down the road.

Also, when purchasing a new lift you can customize your chair to best suit your needs. of course this goes without saying; you are the best person to make customization decisions because you know exactly what daily activities you take part in. So what is the life expectancy of a chair lift? According to manufacturers a chair stair lift [http://www.usmobilitysupplies.com/harmar-summit-stair-lifts.html] should last at least 10 years or longer. So if you are thinking of purchasing a used one, be certain it is a lot younger than 10 years old for best performance.

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Source by Deborah Pretty

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As anyone who’s ever bought a used car knows, you have to approach the project armed with your own knowledge before you even set foot on the lot. In this situation, being uninformed is tantamount to being taken to the cleaners.

The same goes for buying a sailboat. And, like automobiles, no sailboat is the same, so you should know the basics (and some particulars, as well) about the overall condition of the Sunfish sailboat you have your eye on.

The first question should always be, of course, how much cash are you willing to part with? If you plan on upgrading a used Sunfish, that alone can cost from $550 to $750 or more, depending on whether you want to use it to race. Prices also vary by location and supply; there’s no “set” price for a used Sunfish sailboat.

Then, where do you find a good used boat? Some people prefer to place their own ads (either in local newspapers or on the Internet) as opposed to responding to those already published. Many people have used Sunfish sailboats in pretty good condition but just haven’t thought of placing an ad for it. Also, check out local dealers, particularly if you’re buying out of season or if the outfit isn’t a Sunfish dealer. Also, knowing that sailboats go for less in winter and fall will put you ahead of the game.

Some obvious things that people often forget to look for are: age of the boat, which can be determined by checking the rudder, gunwales, or the serial number, if you don’t know the actual age; the weight of the hull, which should be between 115 and 130 pounds, and the resistance or lack thereof – watch out for a hull that’s too flexible.

Also, check the mast step and daggerboard trunk for hairline cracks or holes, and the condition of the bailer and storage compartment. And, the cockpit rim may be hiding some damage.

Other places to look for potential deal-breakers:

Signs of moisture in ports or drains.

Nicks or dents in the blades; splits and cracks in wooden blades.

Rudder and tiller cracks, corrosion, or pitting.

Dents or bends in the mast, near the tube.

Corrosion in the gaff and boom.

Holes or bad seams in the sail.

Never let the seller think you know as much as you do, bring plenty of cash just in case, and you’ll find a good deal on a used Sunfish sailboat.

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Source by David Dunlap

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Even though many people choose to simply put water into their radiators instead of coolant, it is not really a good idea. If you do not have any coolant on hand and must use water, then by all means do so. It is much better than nothing and will definitely keep your vehicle from overheating. Do however, make sure that you purchase some coolant and put it into your radiator at your next available moment. When asked, many people simply do not know the difference between putting water into a vehicle or coolant; so if you have been wondering about this yourself, then you are not alone.

There is a big difference between using proper coolant and water. While water does help to keep your engine cool, it does not work nearly as well as coolant does. First of all, water boils faster and at a lower temperature than does coolant. Another thing that you should keep in mind is that coolant also performs the duties of antifreeze as well. If it is winter, than you risk having your engine block crack if you run your engine with only plain water. Engine coolant also has been formulated to keep the parts in your engine from becoming corroded. Water, it goes without saying, does not possess these qualities.

Now that the importance of always having coolant in your vehicle has been established, it is important that you check your coolant level if you have not done so in awhile. Coolant is very easy to check, and you should probably do so every time you check your oil. First, you should check your overflow tank. This is a clear tank and you can check the level without even taking off the cap. There is a fill line on the side, go ahead and fill it with 50/50 coolant to this point if you need to. If you have unmixed coolant, then you need to mix it with 50 percent water beforehand. Make sure your radiator is filled as well.

It is natural for dirt and residue to clog your cooling system, so doing a full radiator flush is a good idea once in awhile. In order to do this, you will need a wrench or screwdriver, rag, radiator flush solution, funnel, and a receptacle to place the used coolant. Making sure that your engine is cool, drain the coolant that is already in the tank. There is a drain plug on your radiator tank that you’ll need to unscrew. Make sure you have your receptacle underneath for the old coolant. Do not leave the old coolant where a pet or animal may drink it.

Now you have to replace the radiator drain plug. You are ready to put in your radiator flush solution. Unscrew the cap on the top of the radiator and fill it all the way to the top. Let your car run for about 10 minutes with the heater on all the way. After your engine has cooled completely, you may drain the fluid. Now you just have to replace the plug again and fill the tank up with coolant. Do not pour the coolant or flush solution on the ground, dispose of it properly.

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Source by Everette Jamison

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Moving companies are often wrong when it comes to estimating the weight and value of your household goods shipment. Some estimators do a pretty good job, but there is such high turnover in the industry that you never know how experienced your estimator really is. If you make your contract decision based on price, you may be in for a big surprise when the driver hands you the final bill at your destination.

There are a few simple steps you can take to estimate the weight on your own. Following these steps will keep you in charge of the process and protect your rights in case you need to make a claim.

You want to start by sorting and inventorying your belongings. If this sounds like more work than you want to do, there are companies you can hire to inventory and value the contents of your home. No matter who does your inventory, you need to have an inventory done. Without it, you are at a disadvantage from the start. With it, you have a foundational document that can be used throughout your dealings with the moving companies.

Start by separating the valuable stuff from the ordinary stuff, the heavy stuff from the light stuff, and eliminate anything that the movers won’t be moving. As you go, simply list what you have. The list will help you determine the weight and value of your shipment. The best way to proceed is to start upstairs and work your way down, or start down then up if you prefer. Move around each room in a clockwise direction and write down everything you see. Write down items on the floor first, and then items on the wall, and then items in cabinets. Stay consistent from room to room so you don’t miss anything. Collections can be listed as collections, rather than individual pieces. When you are done with the house, inventory the shed and the garage in the same fashion.

You probably won’t take everything in your house. Items that won’t be moved fall into two categories: things you can’t take, and things you won’t want to take. The things you can’t take include anything that could explode, start a fire, rot, or give off toxic fumes. Such items cannot be transported or placed into storage. These are the items that are most troublesome to deal with. You can’t just throw them in the trash. Call your county department of the environment; they will tell you how to dispose of them. Have a plan for getting rid of these items. You don’t want to leave a bunch of hazardous waste in your house. Realtors frown on that. Makes the house harder to sell. Items you don’t want to take should be donated to charity, sold, or consigned to auction. Have the items picked up before you get your estimates. If it’s not in the house, it won’t contribute to an estimating mistake.

Once you know what you are going to move, there are three approaches to estimating the weight of your shipment. The first way is to take an educated guess. Add up the individual weights of the items on your inventory. For reference, I have provided a downloadable table of household weights on my website. If you are moving an item that is not on my list, find an item of similar heft and use the weight of that item. Remember, you are looking for a god estimate, not an exact number. Add up all the individual items for your total weight.

The second way to estimate the weight of your shipment is to take a wild guess. I’m not kidding; this method actually works. I’m told that the average shipment of household goods will weigh about 40 pounds per item. Remember that some items will be boxes of small goods. Total the number of items on your inventory (including boxes) and multiply by 40. If you have 150 items on your inventory, your weight will be somewhere in the 6,000 pound range. Not impressed with this method? That’s why I call it a wild guess. Still, if your wild guess came in at 6,000 pounds and your estimator gave you an estimate of 3,000 pounds, wouldn’t you want to know why?

The third way is illegal, so use it at your own risk. There are household goods weight calculators online. Most of them are on government owned websites, military and G.S.A.. They are supposed to be for authorized users. If you decide to use one, be sure to read the warnings and use good judgment. I only include this information here because I know that some of you will look online for your weights.

Beware if your estimator wants to give you an estimate based on cubic feet; i.e., how much space your shipment will take up in the truck. This is a useless number for billing purposes, since interstate carriers have to charge you based on weight and distance. Figuring cubic feet is useful, however, in determining whether you will be sharing a truck with another shipper, get a whole truck to yourself, or need two trucks. The chart on my website also lists the sizes of household items in cubic feet.

With your inventory done and your weight figured, the next thing you need to know is how to determine the value of your shipment for insurance purposes. That consideration will be the subject of my next article.

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Source by Wayne Jordan