Monthly Archives2017 July

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Want to buy the most popular wholesale tire sizes to ensure your inventory is filled with products that are likely to sell and sell quickly? Each year the Rubber Manufacturer’s Association puts out a fact book which includes the most popular tire sizes when it comes to both original equipment tires and replacement tires. We have compared this information to our own sales figures and found that it is extremely accurate and reliable. You can now make informed purchasing decisions when looking for wholesale tires to complete your inventory. These tires are the ones that are guaranteed to sell and not waste space sitting around in your shop.

In 2008, the four most popular replacement tire sizes represented a solid 13.3% of tire shipments reported by RMA-member companies. The sizes were were:

1. P225/60R16

2. P235/75R15

3. P205/65R15

4. P215/70R15

The RMA also listed 5 of the most popular original equipment tire sizes:

1. P215/60R16 (this consistently popular size represented 8% of OE shipments alone!)

2. P225/55R17

3. P265/70R17

4. P195/60R15

5. P215/55R17

As far as wholesale OE light truck tires, you can’t go wrong with these sizes:

1. LT245/75R16

2. LT225/75R16

3. LT265/70R17

4. LT245/75R17

5. 37×12.50R16.5

Many times when retailers purchase wholesale tires for their inventory, they aren’t sure what the most profitable and sensible purchases are. If you are trying to beef up an order to meet minimums, or if you are a new auto shop that wants to keep some popular tire sizes stocked, you can’t go wrong if you use this list of best-selling wholesale tire sizes.

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Source by Jared Kugel

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The notion of reusing some of the thousands of shipping containers sitting idle at harbors around the world is an attractive idea for many people. Many interesting projects have been undertaken, and shipping containers can be turned into cafés, homes and even saunas. It can sometimes be easy to get caught up in an idea without considering the practical issues; this article identifies some things for you to consider, before using a shipping container as a part of a project.

Consider Location

Unless you live close to a harbor or port, it may cost a good amount of money to ship the container to where you are. You would then need to transport the container to where you wish to use it, and this would entail the hiring of an appropriate truck and trailer. However, it may be possible to have the container picked up and delivered to you for a modest charge, it is worth checking the small businesses in the area to get a price.

Breaking Into The Container

Assuming that you can arrange for the delivery of a shipping container to your property, there are one or two things to consider. The most practical issue is that the container is likely to be secured shut; you will have to break into your own container. This can be a bit of a lengthy job, as the containers are, of course, designed to be secure. Usually, a blow torch can help you get in.

Stripping And Painting

Before the container can be used as a part of a project, you will have to remove the paint and repaint it. Shipping containers are regularly sprayed with chemicals to protect the paint, so this will have to be stripped off. You would then need to prime and repaint the container so that it fits into your intended project.

Temperature Control

People can forget that if, for example, they are sitting in a café made from a shipping container, a decent amount of work has to go into maintaining the temperature of the container. Cold weather outside means freezing conditions inside the container, while warm conditions outside means it would be uncomfortably hot inside the container. If you are planning to use the container to allow other people to walk through it or sit/stand inside it as part of your project, you will need to spend some time on insulating and ventilating the container properly.

Many people see the purchasing of a container as an investment, and spend many enjoyable months working on and preparing it.

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Source by Alice Brian

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The internet has become a great place to buy and sell new and used automobiles. In a matter of minutes, you can advertise your vehicle for sale by posting your ad on various paid and free classified ad systems. Compared to traditional newspaper advertising, selling your car on the Internet can be easy, fast and can save you money as well.

The following are a few simple tips for selling your car on the Internet:

Research your selling price
Part of a successful sale involves a reasonable price which buyers will be interested in submitting an offer on. If your sale price is too high, buyers may not be interested in contacting you at all. Initially start by researching your local newspaper for prices for your used vehicle, you may be surprised to find a wide range in price for the particular make and model of your vehicle.

Create an email selling account

At times you may receive junk emails, you may want to separate your sales inquiries from your personal or business email account. Visit Google Mail, Yahoo Mail or Hotmail for a free email account where you can receiving inquiries and emails about the items you are selling.

Photo ads sell

People online want to see what they are buying. People look for color, condition and any additional accessories that your vehicle may have. Although you may not need to post all your car or truck photos, take as many pictures of your car in case a buyer wants to see more photos of your sales item.

Mention that it is a private sale or for sale by owner in your ad

Some people like to deal with people direct and may be apprehensive if they know they will be dealing with a dealership. Not to say anything about automotive dealerships, but it is simply a matter of personal choice.

Selling a car privetly also ensures that you will get the best possible price and the buyer will get the best possible deal.

Get your car ready

Thoroughly clean your car or truck inside and out. Buyers love a clean vehicle and it makes a great impression. Consider spending some money on having it professionally detailed.

Provide lot of information in your ad

Buyers want to know everything about your car: when was it built, are you the original owner, how many miles or kilometers on the vehicle, has the engine been rebuilt and more. Listing Lots of information in your ad shows that you pay attention to detail and that you have nothing to hide when selling your car.

If you have photos of the vehicle posted on a website somewhere, provide a link to that site. Indicate to the potential buyer how to contact you; By email or by phone. Optional is to list where the car is located so that people can come and view it at their leisure. Some auto sellers even indicate what their viewing times are: mornings, evenings, weekends.

Do not be affraid to put "OBO" (or best offer) in your ad. This tells car buyers that you are willing to negotiate the price of the vehicle and that you are ready to sell your car.

Advertise your car on internet car classified systems

There are many paid and free car classified ad system on the Internet where you can post your used car ad to. Some will accept photos while others simply offer a text ad. Initially start out by searching for local ads within your city or state. National ad systems will provide you with a larger coverage, but may also charge your for your listing.

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Source by Alex Despageto

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Synchronous drives represent a modern and efficient system of power transmission. They essentially combine the advantages of mechanical components (gears & chain) and flexible components (flat & V-belts) while eliminating the inherent disadvantages of these components.

The main components of a synchronous drive are the tensile cords, the teeth, rubber backing and tooth facing. Steel was originally used as a tensile cord material. Most belts today use high modulus (low-stretch) fiberglass or aramid fiber as the tensile member. Tensile cord is the load bearing element of the synchronous belt. The belt teeth are molded of a hard rubber compound jacketed with a tough, abrasion resistant nylon tooth facing. The compressive and shear strength of the teeth exceeds that of the tensile cords when there are at least six teeth in mesh with the driver pulley. A durable rubber backing encases the load bearing tensile cord. It protects the cords from dirt, oil and other contaminants, as well as frictional wear when a backside idler is used.

Synchronous belts operate on a basic principle: molded teeth of the belt and mating grooves of the pulley make positive engagement. The teeth enter and leave the pulley in a smooth rolling manner with low friction. This positive engagement results in exact shaft synchronization, elimination of slippage and speed loss common to v-belts. Synchronous operation at speeds higher than most chain drives.

When to use a synchronous belt drive? There are many situations. For example, high mechanical drive efficiency and energy savings are required. Compact drive layout is necessary. Low maintenance is required or low noise is required.

All synchronous belts operate on the positive engagement principle. Chains operate on the same principle but synchronous belts have many superior characteristics. The latter wrap around the pulley by means of flexion and not by rotation of articulated parts which eliminates one of the causes of wear and noise. With them, the required take-up allowances for tensioning are significantly less. Synchronous belts have no hidden costs. They have larger availability of ratios and lengths.

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Source by Rainy Ling

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There are many things to take into consideration when hitching your trailer to your tow vehicle. The following are some common towing terms you need to know when selecting a tow vehicle or purchasing a travel trailer.

GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating)

Maximum allowable weight that a single axle can carry. Do not exceed the gross axle weight rating listed on the trailer’s and tow vehicle’s certification label. It is measured at the tires and includes the weight of the axle, tires, wheels and brakes. Many problems can occur if this weight is exceeded; the tires may not be able to carry the weight possibly resulting in a blow out situation, the vehicle’s steering may become less responsive and the brakes may not be effective. GAWR is listed on a data plate typically located outside near the front of the unit or in some cases it could be inside a cabinet door inside the trailer.

GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight)

How much a vehicle actually weighs. Do not confuse with GVWR. GVW should never surpass GVWR. The trailer weight is not considered to be part of GVW weight, but the tongue weight is part of the GVW.

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)

A weight limit set by a manufacturer for a specific vehicle, it is the total weight the vehicle has been designed to carry. GVWR is listed on a data plate typically pasted to inside of driver’s doorframe, it is equal to or greater than the sum of the UVW plus the NCC. There are a few things that can go wrong if you exceed the GVWR; suspension can become ineffective or maybe even break because the added strain on tires, the breaks may not be able to stop the car effectively because of the excessive weight being pulled by tow vehicle.

GTWR (Gross Trailer Weight Rating)

The maximum trailer weight. This weight is located on a metal tag on the trailer frame and is based on the allowable weight of trailer and cargo.

SCWR (Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating)

Weight measurement provided by the manufacturer, determined by multiplying 154 lbs by the number of sleeping capacities in a unit (3 beds X 154 lbs = 462 lbs).

CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity)

Weight that can be safely added without exceeding a vehicle’s or trailer’s GVWR. It is a weight limit and should not exceed manufacturer’s specifications. Here is how you can calculate CCC: GVWR – UVW – SCWR – Propane Fuel (4.2 lbs/gallon) – Fresh Water Weight (8.3 lbs/gallon) = CCC. If you are not sure of the ccc on a vehicle, ask the dealer or seller for a certified weight slip.

NCC (Net Carrying Capacity)

NCC is being replaced by CCC (see above) in new RV’s. NCC is equal to or less than GVWR minus UVW.

GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating)

Gross combination weight rating. Total weight of the tow vehicle, the trailer, all fluids, contents of trailer and vehicle and passengers.

UVW (Unloaded Vehicle Weight)

Weight does not include passengers, cargo, fresh water, LP gas, or dealer installed accessories. Usually found on the inside of a cabinet.

TWL/TLR/VLR (Tongue Weight Load/Tongue Load Rating/Vertical Load Rating)

Amount of trailer’s weight that presses down on the trailer hitch. Too much tongue weight can cause not enough weight on the front wheels of tow vehicle, too little weight can cause the trailer to sway. A weight distribution hitch will solve this problem by transferring weight to the front of the axle of tow vehicle. Look closely at the manufacturer’s trailer towing ball steel strength specifications before buying one or attaching your trailer rig to it.

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Source by Erika Widmer

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Most people do not know much about their car. They do not want to trouble themselves with that,they think it is not important at all or simply think that pushing the pedals and turning the steering wheel is enough trouble already. But in situations (like an arm-chair conversation about cars) people find themselves sticking out like a sore thumb.

That is the more harmless part. The lack of car-knowledge could be potentially troublesome.What happens in case of a needed car repair and you do not know squat about your car or even what to repair?

What happens when you want to sell your car and do not know the basics? The chances of a proper sale is seriously reduced.

So for people who want to know more here is some useful things you should know about your car:

1. Car manufacturer

2. Model and type

3. Type of engine (petrol or diesel)

4. Engine configuration (“V” or in-line)

5. Type of transmission (manual or automatic and number of gears)

6. The correct type of engine fuel you use

7. The vintage of your car (the manufacturing year)

8. The correct mileage or kilometers on your car

9. Engine size (in cubic inches or centimeters)

10. Basic orientation under the hood (in case of repair)

Seems overwhelming? It is not at all. You can squeeze all of this into one sentence and it will take only a few minutes to learn this. Who knows, maybe it can get you more interested in cars and perhaps, one day, do some car repair yourself.

So, if your a car driver, this is some knowledge you have to have. Not having it is like sitting at the table not knowing the purpose of the fork and spoon.

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Source by Sibin S. S.

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Motor vehicles are the most recycled products because of the availability of auto recyclers. Auto recycling entails stripping a vehicle off its reusable parts and then crushing the remaining body. The reusable parts are sold and the crushed portion is recycled by a scrap processor.

Why recycle?

This is done to reduce wastage. Numerous cars are written off as scrap every year. It makes sense to remove the parts that can be used and reuse them. This is not only beneficial for the environment but also makes auto parts available at affordable prices to consumers. In fact, the car manufacturers bear recycling in mind while manufacturing cars. Hence, they provide parts that are long-lasting.

As is apparent, an auto recycler works on the principle of conserving the environment. The three Rs of environment conservation are Reduce, Reuse and Recycle.

Reduce:

This implies using fewer natural resources for conserving the environment. If auto parts are reused, then a lesser quantity needs to be manufactured. If manufacturing reduces then the natural resources used are reduced.

Reuse:

Reusing has a positive impact on the environment. Hence, auto parts that are removed and sold enable reducing the landfill.

Recycle:

Recycling auto parts is the basic function of a recycler. Recycling helps conserve the environment as it reduces landfill and depletion of the environment for creating new parts.

Benefits of auto recyclers:

Good for the earth:

• Recycling is beneficial for the earth because of the following reasons:

• Reduces dangerous toxins from being released into our ground and water.

• It prevents the use of valuable landfill.

• It helps preserve the natural resources as it reduces the need for manufacturing new parts.

Good for your wallet

Recycled parts are available at nearly half the price as the original. Hence you save a good amount by purchasing them.

Good for your vehicle

The recycled parts are original and genuine made as per the original manufacturer’s specifications. In fact, many sellers of recycled parts even provide a warranty for them.

Hence, we see that auto recyclers, recycle End-of-life vehicles and protect water, air, and soil from harmful material contained in them.

So, if you have an end of life car, why sit around with it? Anyway, damaged cars do not have a book value so establishing a price for it will be difficult. Sell it to an auto recycler and earn cash in exchange! You will be doing your bit for the environment as well!

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Source by Kanika Saxena

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A fuse is really a kind of over current protection device. Made up of a metal wire or strip, it can melt when too much current flows, to interrupt the circuit to which it is connected. In the case of overload the device fails to prevent excessive current so that further damage can be prevented. Fuses limit threat to human life and property damage.

Wiring regulations lay down specifications for maximum current rating for circuits. Automotive fuses are used to protect the wiring and electrical equipment for vehicles. They get rated for circuits that may not be higher than 24 volts direct current but others may be of types rated for 42-volt electrical systems.

Blade fuses have a plastic body with two prongs that fit into sockets that are commonly used in vehicles. Every one of them is printed with a numerical ampere rating. They come in four different physical dimensions, these being low-profile mini (APS), mini (APM / ATM), regular (APR / ATC / ATO) and maxi (APX) heavy-duty.

The APS fuse is also called micro since the term means smaller than mini. Regular blade types are better known as standard fuses and they were developed in 1976 for low-voltages use in motor vehicles. Mini fuses were introduced in the 1990s. Blade type fuses get mounted on blocks, in-line holders or even clips.

Well known manufacturers of automotive fuses include Bosch making torpedo or ATS types. Used mostly in old automobiles, their physical dimension is 6×25 mm with conical ends. Bosch types use same color coding for the rated current and DIN standard is 72581/1 with size of the fuse at 6×25 mm.

Lucas type fuses are also used in old or assembled automobiles and their length is either 1 inch or 1.25 inch with conical ends. They use same color coding for the rated current. Lucas types have three ratings – continuous current they are designed to carry, instantaneous current at which they will go off and continuous current at which they will also melt.

Modern vehicles having electrical systems protected by glass cartridges are rated 32 volts with current ratings from 4 amperes to 30 amperes. Their dimensions and characteristics are standard J554. All of them are 1/4 inch diameter and length varies according to their ratings. A 4 Amp is 5/8 inch, 20 Amp is 1 1/4 inches and 30 amp is 1 7/16 inches.

The Limiter fuse with metal strips on a lock plate is for currents over 40 amperes. Used in close proximity to starter battery boxes, they are used in electric vehicles like forklift trucks. While blown fuses in cars would not signal a major problem in most cases, but if they are blowing a lot it could be an indication of a problem with the electrical system. This does signify you need to check out vehicle maintenance.

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Source by Santosh SP Chhalotre

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E track is an effective way to secure cargo in an enclosed trailer. Here’s how you can easily install it in a wood-paneled trailer. This example uses a horizontal 1/8″ thick track with 1/4″ diameter mounting holes.

The first step is to look for wall studs inside the trailer. A standard way to spot them is by checking for the screws that hold the paneling in place. The screws will be attached to the wall studs.

Most wall studs in trailers are about two inches wide. Knowing that should help you find the center of the stud, and each stud is generally spaced about two feet apart. When you install the track, make sure it’s sitting as flat as possible on the wood and that it’s evenly spaced over the studs.

To secure the track to the wall while you’re working, mark off a couple of holes and start by putting in a couple of temporary screws.

Number 12 screws are your best bet for the permanent connection. Just make sure the holes line up with the wall supports before you continue. It shouldn’t be too difficult. In a standard trailer configuration, if one hole lines up, the rest will as well.

Keep in mind that the outside wall is only a couple of inches away, so you’ll want to mark your drill bit so you don’t go in too far.

Once the e track is attached to the wall, hook up a tie-down strap and give it a good pull to make sure it’s secure before you attempt to secure your cargo.

Many people ask about the best height and location for e track. The answer is that it depends on what you want to secure. For a refrigerator, mid-height would be about right. For a motorcycle, you might want to install the track on the floor and secure the straps to each handlebar. So the location really depends on the job at hand.

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Source by Scott Brunson

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According to many Defensive Driving course instructors, there are five vital rules to defensive driving. If everyone followed just these five rules, experts agree that car accidents would be reduced by at least 98%.

So, do your part to reduce the dangers of driving, and to further protect yourself and your loved ones from dangerous and possibly fatal accidents. Read on to discover what you can do to be more safe on the road – and don’t be fooled by the simplistic nature of these rules. You may believe they are common sense, but we can guarantee that either you or someone you know breaks at least two of these rules on a regular basis!

Defensive Driving Key #1. Pay Attention and Focus on the Task of Driving

Yes, this one seems the most obvious! But how often have you been on your cell phone while driving? Or fiddled with a handbag, papers, a map, or kept digging for something in your pockets? Splitting your attention from the process of driving immediately puts your driving on auto pilot. You are no longer consciously involved in operating your two ton box of metal – you find you can’t remember what you saw, or that you changed lanes a mile back. Most importantly, your response rate is reduced and impaired. You cannot react quickly to new stimuli because your conscious brain is not involved in the active reception of such information.

So how can you increase your ability to pay active attention while driving? Never chat on your cell phone – in some states like California, it is now illegal to drive and talk on the phone. Try not to daydream, and if someone else is in the car with you, do not look at them while talking – keep your eyes and attention on the road. Averting your eyes, for even two seconds, while talking to a passenger, could put both your lives in serious danger.

Also form good driving habits. For instance, if you’re making a trip to a new destination, get familiar with your map or directions before getting into your car. Make sure that you can recall most of them from memory so that you are not forced to finger through, or constantly look at your papers while driving. In addition, pace yourself – if you’re hungry, stop and eat at the restaurant. Don’t drive through and eat while driving. If you’re tired, pull over and rest. Don’t gamble your life and another’s just because you’re in a hurry or you believe you won’t fall asleep. Driving is hypnotic – eventually you will fall asleep if you are not well rested.

Defensive Driving Key #2. Maintain Your Distance

This is particularly difficult for those of us living in Southern California. We’re practically raised on tailgating! But nevertheless, following too closely behind another vehicle accounts for 40% of vehicle accidents. Plus, in the event of a rear-end collision, the fault automatically falls on the rear vehicle – even if the driver honestly believes the front vehicle stopped too suddenly.

This is because if you maintain the proper distance, it’s almost impossible to hit the vehicle in front of you – because you’ve allowed yourself enough reaction time to stop.

So what is the proper following distance? A good rule of thumb is the “two second” rule. You want to always remain a two-second count behind the vehicle in front of you. However, the faster your speeds are, the more space you must allow. At freeway speeds, maintain a good 4 to 5 second leeway.

If counting seems difficult to measure while driving, consider car lengths…always have at least one car length between you and the car in front of you. At freeway speeds, lengthen that space to roughly two car lengths or more. If you find yourself having to brake every time you see the car in front of you brake, then you are following too closely.

Defensive Driving Key #3. Don’t Speed

If you love to drive, you hate the admonition to not speed. However, driving too fast for road conditions or traffic exponentially increases your chances of getting into an accident. First of all, your speeds leave you with less reaction time than may be needed to avoid a crash and the faster you drive, the longer it will take for your brakes to successfully stop your moving vehicle.

Yes, inertia’s a witch. But it’s a law of physics and no pouting will change that. So work with the universe and watch how fast you’re going. The easiest way to manage your speeds is to keep pace with the traffic around you. And most importantly, don’t change lanes or weave in and out of traffic when at high speeds.

Defensive Driving Key #4. Don’t Drive Impaired

If you have any alcohol, you must wait two hours for every drink consumed before you drive. And always follow up alcohol with an equal amount of water. It will allow you to maintain your “buzz” for a good length of time, but will help your body return to full capacity when you begin winding down (provided you wait the prescribed amount of time after drinking before driving).

And don’t kid yourself. Just because you think you can walk in a straight line doesn’t mean you can drive adequately. Just as talking on a cell phone impairs your ability to drive defensively and safely, having any alcohol in your system when you’re driving will impair your ability to react to road conditions or other drivers.

This also goes for being sick, tired, or otherwise impaired. If you do not feel you have a clear head, do not drive. If your eyes or head hurt too much, don’t drive. If you have trouble staying awake, or you’ve had to take medication that makes you drowsy, don’t drive.

Defensive Driving Key #5. Buy and Maintain Safe Driving Equipment

If you drive an older model vehicle, find out what equipment your car has and consider upgrading. You want to ensure that you have ABS (anti-lock) brakes, traction control systems, and air-bags. Auto engineering continues to impress – consider the latest in safety technology: run flat tires, SOS systems that will automatically notify paramedics if your vehicle is in an accident, and active systems that assist with safely managing your vehicle, such as Active Cruise Control that will automatically change your speed to match a slower vehicle in front of you, and to maintain a pre-determined distance behind.

Because upgrading an older vehicle to these new technologies can get exceedingly expensive, you may consider selling your used car for a newer model. If this is the case, we can help. We are the largest and most respected auto buying service in Los Angeles and all of Southern California, having bought and sold over 50,000 cars, trucks, vans, and SUVs. We guarantee to offer you more for your car than any dealer and we get that cash into your hands within 24 hours. Visit us at Cash4UsedCars.net to learn more.

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Source by J. L. Mintun