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Most Popular Wholesale Tire Sizes

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Want to buy the most popular wholesale tire sizes to ensure your inventory is filled with products that are likely to sell and sell quickly? Each year the Rubber Manufacturer’s Association puts out a fact book which includes the most popular tire sizes when it comes to both original equipment tires and replacement tires. We have compared this information to our own sales figures and found that it is extremely accurate and reliable. You can now make informed purchasing decisions when looking for wholesale tires to complete your inventory. These tires are the ones that are guaranteed to sell and not waste space sitting around in your shop.

In 2008, the four most popular replacement tire sizes represented a solid 13.3% of tire shipments reported by RMA-member companies. The sizes were were:

1. P225/60R16

2. P235/75R15

3. P205/65R15

4. P215/70R15

The RMA also listed 5 of the most popular original equipment tire sizes:

1. P215/60R16 (this consistently popular size represented 8% of OE shipments alone!)

2. P225/55R17

3. P265/70R17

4. P195/60R15

5. P215/55R17

As far as wholesale OE light truck tires, you can’t go wrong with these sizes:

1. LT245/75R16

2. LT225/75R16

3. LT265/70R17

4. LT245/75R17

5. 37×12.50R16.5

Many times when retailers purchase wholesale tires for their inventory, they aren’t sure what the most profitable and sensible purchases are. If you are trying to beef up an order to meet minimums, or if you are a new auto shop that wants to keep some popular tire sizes stocked, you can’t go wrong if you use this list of best-selling wholesale tire sizes.

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Source by Jared Kugel

What To Remember If Thinking About Reusing A Shipping Container

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The notion of reusing some of the thousands of shipping containers sitting idle at harbors around the world is an attractive idea for many people. Many interesting projects have been undertaken, and shipping containers can be turned into cafés, homes and even saunas. It can sometimes be easy to get caught up in an idea without considering the practical issues; this article identifies some things for you to consider, before using a shipping container as a part of a project.

Consider Location

Unless you live close to a harbor or port, it may cost a good amount of money to ship the container to where you are. You would then need to transport the container to where you wish to use it, and this would entail the hiring of an appropriate truck and trailer. However, it may be possible to have the container picked up and delivered to you for a modest charge, it is worth checking the small businesses in the area to get a price.

Breaking Into The Container

Assuming that you can arrange for the delivery of a shipping container to your property, there are one or two things to consider. The most practical issue is that the container is likely to be secured shut; you will have to break into your own container. This can be a bit of a lengthy job, as the containers are, of course, designed to be secure. Usually, a blow torch can help you get in.

Stripping And Painting

Before the container can be used as a part of a project, you will have to remove the paint and repaint it. Shipping containers are regularly sprayed with chemicals to protect the paint, so this will have to be stripped off. You would then need to prime and repaint the container so that it fits into your intended project.

Temperature Control

People can forget that if, for example, they are sitting in a café made from a shipping container, a decent amount of work has to go into maintaining the temperature of the container. Cold weather outside means freezing conditions inside the container, while warm conditions outside means it would be uncomfortably hot inside the container. If you are planning to use the container to allow other people to walk through it or sit/stand inside it as part of your project, you will need to spend some time on insulating and ventilating the container properly.

Many people see the purchasing of a container as an investment, and spend many enjoyable months working on and preparing it.

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Source by Alice Brian

Used Car Selling Tips on the Internet

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The internet has become a great place to buy and sell new and used automobiles. In a matter of minutes, you can advertise your vehicle for sale by posting your ad on various paid and free classified ad systems. Compared to traditional newspaper advertising, selling your car on the Internet can be easy, fast and can save you money as well.

The following are a few simple tips for selling your car on the Internet:

Research your selling price
Part of a successful sale involves a reasonable price which buyers will be interested in submitting an offer on. If your sale price is too high, buyers may not be interested in contacting you at all. Initially start by researching your local newspaper for prices for your used vehicle, you may be surprised to find a wide range in price for the particular make and model of your vehicle.

Create an email selling account

At times you may receive junk emails, you may want to separate your sales inquiries from your personal or business email account. Visit Google Mail, Yahoo Mail or Hotmail for a free email account where you can receiving inquiries and emails about the items you are selling.

Photo ads sell

People online want to see what they are buying. People look for color, condition and any additional accessories that your vehicle may have. Although you may not need to post all your car or truck photos, take as many pictures of your car in case a buyer wants to see more photos of your sales item.

Mention that it is a private sale or for sale by owner in your ad

Some people like to deal with people direct and may be apprehensive if they know they will be dealing with a dealership. Not to say anything about automotive dealerships, but it is simply a matter of personal choice.

Selling a car privetly also ensures that you will get the best possible price and the buyer will get the best possible deal.

Get your car ready

Thoroughly clean your car or truck inside and out. Buyers love a clean vehicle and it makes a great impression. Consider spending some money on having it professionally detailed.

Provide lot of information in your ad

Buyers want to know everything about your car: when was it built, are you the original owner, how many miles or kilometers on the vehicle, has the engine been rebuilt and more. Listing Lots of information in your ad shows that you pay attention to detail and that you have nothing to hide when selling your car.

If you have photos of the vehicle posted on a website somewhere, provide a link to that site. Indicate to the potential buyer how to contact you; By email or by phone. Optional is to list where the car is located so that people can come and view it at their leisure. Some auto sellers even indicate what their viewing times are: mornings, evenings, weekends.

Do not be affraid to put "OBO" (or best offer) in your ad. This tells car buyers that you are willing to negotiate the price of the vehicle and that you are ready to sell your car.

Advertise your car on internet car classified systems

There are many paid and free car classified ad system on the Internet where you can post your used car ad to. Some will accept photos while others simply offer a text ad. Initially start out by searching for local ads within your city or state. National ad systems will provide you with a larger coverage, but may also charge your for your listing.

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Source by Alex Despageto

Synchronous Belts

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Synchronous drives represent a modern and efficient system of power transmission. They essentially combine the advantages of mechanical components (gears & chain) and flexible components (flat & V-belts) while eliminating the inherent disadvantages of these components.

The main components of a synchronous drive are the tensile cords, the teeth, rubber backing and tooth facing. Steel was originally used as a tensile cord material. Most belts today use high modulus (low-stretch) fiberglass or aramid fiber as the tensile member. Tensile cord is the load bearing element of the synchronous belt. The belt teeth are molded of a hard rubber compound jacketed with a tough, abrasion resistant nylon tooth facing. The compressive and shear strength of the teeth exceeds that of the tensile cords when there are at least six teeth in mesh with the driver pulley. A durable rubber backing encases the load bearing tensile cord. It protects the cords from dirt, oil and other contaminants, as well as frictional wear when a backside idler is used.

Synchronous belts operate on a basic principle: molded teeth of the belt and mating grooves of the pulley make positive engagement. The teeth enter and leave the pulley in a smooth rolling manner with low friction. This positive engagement results in exact shaft synchronization, elimination of slippage and speed loss common to v-belts. Synchronous operation at speeds higher than most chain drives.

When to use a synchronous belt drive? There are many situations. For example, high mechanical drive efficiency and energy savings are required. Compact drive layout is necessary. Low maintenance is required or low noise is required.

All synchronous belts operate on the positive engagement principle. Chains operate on the same principle but synchronous belts have many superior characteristics. The latter wrap around the pulley by means of flexion and not by rotation of articulated parts which eliminates one of the causes of wear and noise. With them, the required take-up allowances for tensioning are significantly less. Synchronous belts have no hidden costs. They have larger availability of ratios and lengths.

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Source by Rainy Ling

Ten Towing Terms (Acronyms) You Need to Know

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There are many things to take into consideration when hitching your trailer to your tow vehicle. The following are some common towing terms you need to know when selecting a tow vehicle or purchasing a travel trailer.

GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating)

Maximum allowable weight that a single axle can carry. Do not exceed the gross axle weight rating listed on the trailer’s and tow vehicle’s certification label. It is measured at the tires and includes the weight of the axle, tires, wheels and brakes. Many problems can occur if this weight is exceeded; the tires may not be able to carry the weight possibly resulting in a blow out situation, the vehicle’s steering may become less responsive and the brakes may not be effective. GAWR is listed on a data plate typically located outside near the front of the unit or in some cases it could be inside a cabinet door inside the trailer.

GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight)

How much a vehicle actually weighs. Do not confuse with GVWR. GVW should never surpass GVWR. The trailer weight is not considered to be part of GVW weight, but the tongue weight is part of the GVW.

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)

A weight limit set by a manufacturer for a specific vehicle, it is the total weight the vehicle has been designed to carry. GVWR is listed on a data plate typically pasted to inside of driver’s doorframe, it is equal to or greater than the sum of the UVW plus the NCC. There are a few things that can go wrong if you exceed the GVWR; suspension can become ineffective or maybe even break because the added strain on tires, the breaks may not be able to stop the car effectively because of the excessive weight being pulled by tow vehicle.

GTWR (Gross Trailer Weight Rating)

The maximum trailer weight. This weight is located on a metal tag on the trailer frame and is based on the allowable weight of trailer and cargo.

SCWR (Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating)

Weight measurement provided by the manufacturer, determined by multiplying 154 lbs by the number of sleeping capacities in a unit (3 beds X 154 lbs = 462 lbs).

CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity)

Weight that can be safely added without exceeding a vehicle’s or trailer’s GVWR. It is a weight limit and should not exceed manufacturer’s specifications. Here is how you can calculate CCC: GVWR – UVW – SCWR – Propane Fuel (4.2 lbs/gallon) – Fresh Water Weight (8.3 lbs/gallon) = CCC. If you are not sure of the ccc on a vehicle, ask the dealer or seller for a certified weight slip.

NCC (Net Carrying Capacity)

NCC is being replaced by CCC (see above) in new RV’s. NCC is equal to or less than GVWR minus UVW.

GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating)

Gross combination weight rating. Total weight of the tow vehicle, the trailer, all fluids, contents of trailer and vehicle and passengers.

UVW (Unloaded Vehicle Weight)

Weight does not include passengers, cargo, fresh water, LP gas, or dealer installed accessories. Usually found on the inside of a cabinet.

TWL/TLR/VLR (Tongue Weight Load/Tongue Load Rating/Vertical Load Rating)

Amount of trailer’s weight that presses down on the trailer hitch. Too much tongue weight can cause not enough weight on the front wheels of tow vehicle, too little weight can cause the trailer to sway. A weight distribution hitch will solve this problem by transferring weight to the front of the axle of tow vehicle. Look closely at the manufacturer’s trailer towing ball steel strength specifications before buying one or attaching your trailer rig to it.

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Source by Erika Widmer