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How to Deal With Car Accidents

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An accident when driving can occur at any moment. You may assume that because you are a fantastic driver you will not have an accident. Wrong. Even the best driver in the world can be hit by a rogue driver. Not everybody on the road has a licence to drive. Not everyone will be in a fit state to drive. And, worst of all, some people will deliberately cause an accident to claim injury compensation from YOUR insurance.

So what is the best way to deal with an accident?

1. Safety. Your first priority is to ensure you and your passengers are not hurt in any way. If so, immediately call the emergency services and give them an exact location. If possible, get help nearby from someone who may be medically trained. Get yourself to a place of safety as soon as possible. Do not wander around a live busy carriageway.

2. Witnesses. Get people who may have stopped to look to give you their recollection of what just happened. Then ask them for their names and telephone numbers. If you can, write down THEIR vehicle registration (if they were in one) as this can prove useful if they’ve given a wrong phone number by mistake.

3. Photographs. Take photographs of damage to your car. The other person’s car and any other property damaged. Even a picture of the location can be useful as it will help when going through the insurance company. Street locations signage indicating priorities and weather can be useful when insurers have to assess a claim. If you have in-car CCTV make sure it has locked the footage. Take pictures of any injuries (if appropriate) and… the really useful one… take a picture (I suggest subtly) of the other driver as scammers may fake details later on. Some people may give false names to make bogus claims. Some people will even add extra passengers in their car (on their insurance claim) to claim personal injuries for more people than were actually there.

4. Swap Insurance details. In most countries, as in the UK, it is a legal requirement to swap insurance details at an accident. You need to give your name, phone number or address or the details of your insurance company as well as your vehicle registration. Never admit any fault, even if you think it may be your fault. You are not in the correct state of mind to make these decisions.

5. Report the accident. In some countries, like in the UK, you should report any accident that involved injury or damage to another person’s property including damage to ‘street furniture’ such as streetlights, walls or signage. Not doing this within the specified time frame may render you liable to prosecution for separate offences. Check with local law enforcement agencies as soon as you can to protect yourself. If you suspect the other person may have been driving illegally (I.e drunk) call the Police immediately as once the person has left the scene it may be hard to prove they were guilty of such an offence. Also, this may assist you with your claim through the insurance company.

6. Check your vehicle. If possible move your vehicle to a place of safety and see if it can still be driven. DO NOT attempt to drive it if looks like it is un-roadworthy – get it towed.

7. Report the accident to your insurers as soon as possible. This is usually a part of the policy and failure to report it quickly may render it void.

8. If it was a very frightening accident and you feel scared to drive again afterwards seek help from a qualified diving instructor. That’s what they’re there for. You can quickly build up your confidence again.

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Source by Sean Coady

The "Perfect" Jeep – The Jeep CJ7’s Storied History

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It was 1976 when the first Jeep CJ7 graced the roads. Redesigned from the frame up, the new CJ was much more practical for “civilian” use than any of its predecessors. The now fully boxed frame not only provided superior strength, but was also widened to increase stability. The leaf springs were altered and moved further outward, and anti-sway bars and a steering stabilizer were added for even more improvements in drivability. Although the CJ5 received these improvements as well, the CJ7 boasted an additional 10 inches in its wheelbase. This not only provided an even more stable ride but also added rear leg room and interior cargo space. The Jeep CJ7 was improved further in 1982 with upgrades to the axles, providing better cornering abilitys and overall handling, thanks to the wider stance.

The 1976 CJ7 came standard with a 232ci inline 6 cylinder engine, though Jeep offered upgrades in the form of a 304ci 5.0 liter and a 258ci 4.2L inline 6 cylinder. Jeep also offered the choice of a standard heavy duty Borg Warner T-150 3 speed transmission or an optional Borg Warner T18 4 speed transmission with a “granny” first gear as an upgrade. The Dana Model 20 was the only transfer case available upon its release.

By 1980, things began to change for the Jeep CJ7. The GM 151ci 4 cylinder engine became the stock powerplant, and the optional 5.0L V8 engine was discontinued later in 1981. In 1984 the AMC 150ci 4 cylinder replaced the GM 151.

Along the way, the transmission saw come changes as well. The Tremec T-176 and SR4 were both introduced in 1980, whose 4 speeds were built more for street use, rather than off-roading. Automatic transmissions, the TF999 and TF904, also debuted in 1980, for the more casual Jeep consumer. In ’81, the 4 speed Borg Warner T4 and 5 speed T5 transmissions both saw their first use.

1980 was the year that the Dana Model 20 transfer case was replaced by the Dana Model 300. The Model 300 had a much deeper low range, 2.62:1 compared to the 2.03:1 Dana 20. The change was necessary due to Jeep no longer offering anything like the granny gear found in the T18 transmission.

As for the CJ7’s standard axles, Jeep offered the Dana Model 30 for the front and the AMC 20 for the rear. The Dana 44 rear axle was being offered as an upgrade on select models, and later became standard in 1986. Jeep offered no optional factory front axles.

In 1987, CJ7 was gone, the AMC badges were lost and the Wrangler was born. Many Jeep purists believe this was the end of the real Jeep. Although the engines and geometry remained the same, the transfer case, rear axle, and transmission all went even “lighter” duty. The interior took a shift for a more car-like appearance, and safety changes were made. For instance, the roll bar morphed to a full roll cage, which kept the windshield from folding down.

Since 1987, no vehicle produced can compare with the Wrangler. However, the Jeep CJ7 remains a vehicle in its own class. Today, it remains one of the most sought after Jeeps for off-roading, restoration, or just a weekend trip. It’s simple design and popularity has kept the aftermarket flooded with parts and accessories. Additionally, a Jeep CJ7 can be literally built from nothing as frames are offerred at many jeep parts sites. For these and countless other reasons, the CJ7 may just be the “perfect” Jeep.

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Source by Samuel Crasnick

Got Gas? What To Do If You Smell Gas Inside Your Home

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If you smell gas in your home…then you just might have a problem. You likely have a gas leak. I’m not referring to gasoline here but I’ll suggest (with my tongue firmly planted in my cheek) that if you smell gasoline inside the living space of your home, then you might want to consider parking your car outside or in the garage. Seriously, though, the smell of gas inside your home is no laughing matter.

Gas is used as a fuel to operate many different systems in modern homes. Gas is most often used by systems that heat the home such as furnaces and boilers. Gas-fired waters heaters are very common. It can be used as a fuel for cooking such as with ranges or cook-tops, for fireplaces to provide heat or for decoration, and for other uses e.g. clothes dryers. It is, after all, an efficient fuel and is readily available in some form in most geographical locations. Two types of gas are in common residential use…natural gas and Liquefied Propane (LP) gas. Each has its own properties and each is unique in various ways. Let’s examine the two different types of gas.

Natural gas is a carbon-based fossil fuel that is typically piped directly into a home by a public utility operator. It is lighter than air which means that, if it leaks, it will readily dissipate into the atmosphere.

LP gas is also a carbon-based fossil fuel. It has more available energy per unit measure than does natural gas and it is readily able to turn to a liquid state. LP gas is heavier is approximately 1.5 times heavier than air…which means that, if it should leak, it sinks to the floor or grade level and will collect in low areas (more on that later).

It is worthy of note that, in their natural states (conditions), both natural gas and LP gas are virtually odorless. To enable people being able to readily detect gas leakage (using their nose), processors of both products add a chemical called Methyl Mercaptan to the gas mixture. Methyl Mercaptan has been described as smelling like something akin to rotten cabbage or rotten eggs. Listen up…this is important! If you smell rotten cabbage, and you’re pretty sure you don’t have any rotten cabbage lying around, then that odor should cause an instantaneous alarm to go off inside your head. If you suspect that there’s a gas leak inside your home, there are some things you need to do…and quickly. There are also a few things not to do.

Things NOT To Do:

• Panic…you’re well-being depends on you keeping a clear head and systematically doing what you need to do in a timely manner. If you freak out as soon as you smell gas, you won’t be thinking clearly

• Light a match or cigarette lighter…this may seem like a no-brainer but, well, it has happened and the results weren’t pretty

• Do not operate any electric devices to include light switches, appliances, or your even your hard-wired telephone…any potential for any electrical spark should be completely avoided

• Don’t connect or disconnect any electric cords from power outlets…this could also create a spark

Things To Do:

• If the odor is strong, round up all living creatures that you love…spouse, kids, Grandma and Grandpa, Fido, cats, birds, etc. (the fish will probably be alright assuming no explosion…in which case the fish probably won’t be the primary concern anyway)…and leave the house immediately

• If the odor isn’t very strong, then you could consider opening a window or two, on your way out the door, to allow some fresh air to dilute the concentration of gas in the air

• If you are at all technically inclined and know where and how to do so…and you should know…then turn off the gas supply at the main valve. The main gas valve is usually located at the gas meter in the case of natural gas or at the tank in the case of LP gas

• From your cell phone, or from a neighbor’s phone, call the gas company or gas supplier. Particularly in the case of natural gas, the utility company often has a 24 hour emergency phone number that you can call and many LP gas suppliers have such an emergency number as well. It is recommended that this number be kept in a readily available and accessible location.

Remember my mentioning that LP gas is heavier than air? And that it will collect in low areas or spaces? I believe this deserves just a little bit more emphasis. Because of the fact that LP gas will collect in low areas, it’s imperative that you be specifically cognizant of that fact. For instance, if your home has a basement, and there is gas leakage in that area, then the gas can collect in sump pits or other low areas where ventilation isn’t readily accomplished and there are normally some types of electrical devices down in the basement. We already established that gas and electric sparks aren’t a good combination. No need to be scared…just be cognizant. There is a reason, a very good reason, why an LP gas tank isn’t allowed to be stored in the hull of a boat…it’s because the hull of a boat could fill with gas and be ignited resulting in another one of those situations where the outcome just isn’t pretty. Again, be smart…be educated…be cognizant…be aware.

As a Raleigh Home Inspector, and during the performance of any given Raleigh Home Inspection (of homes that are served by gas, of course), our clients have often confided that they are afraid of gas; I can’t tell you just how often that fear has been shared with me. My answer, always, is that there’s no reason whatsoever to fear gas. However…gas should be respected; in fact,. gas demands your respect. One should only be scared, though, if they are under-educated and under-prepared. Insofar as gas is concerned, respect necessarily includes a couple of basic related tenets of general safety.

First, be educated. It is important to properly maintain any and all gas-fired appliances…the equipment on the market today is designed, tested, and approved for that fuel. If the equipment is well-maintained, by professionals in accordance with the manufactures recommendations, it should provide safe and problem-free service with respect to any fuel-related issues.

Second, be prepared. It is of the utmost import that you be educated about the potential safety related issues of any of the complex systems and appliances in your home…that just makes good common sense, wouldn’t you agree? Just like it’s wise to have a formal safety/evacuation plan in place in case of a fire, it’s also smart have a plan for what you will do if you smell gas in the home and be ready to execute that plan at any time. It is recommended that all occupants of the home participate in a practice drill to ensure that the plan is effective when put into action. It is said that practice makes perfect…and you know that it does. You’ll want your plan to be as close to perfectly executed as possible and that means that it needs to practiced and rehearsed.

In conclusion…you should know how to identify a gas leak and know what you are going to do should you smell gas inside your home.You should be knowledgeable about all of the gas-fired equipment in your home, be respectful of the fuel without being afraid of it, and have a formal and readily executable plan in case your built-in olfactory sensory, gas detection, and alarm system (that being the more or less prominent protrusion on the front of your face) ever detects the odor of gas inside you home. You’ll feel confident and secure that you are prepared for what could be an emergency. Your life…and the safety of your loved ones…may very well depend on it!

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Source by Gary Gentry

Getting From A Google Rating Of 88 To 100

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Valued Reader,

Page Title Also Known As a Blog’s H1 Header – This is the Blog title and it should not exceed 60 characters, which is the maximum accepted by all major search engines. However, it comes highly recommended to keep it at around 55 characters. Your Site Title (H1 Header) must be specific and target Short Tail Keywords, perhaps around 3 will be suggestible. Make your title easy to remember and target a specific need within your niche. But more importantly, remember to offer a solution within your content.

Post Titles Also Known As a Blog’s H2 Headers – Each Blog Post title must be an H2 header, and this is where one must target the Long Tail Keywords. Normally around 3 keywords used in conjunction to make up a striking title. Remember that neither your site nor post title must be of promotional nature, but rather informative pointing at what to expect.

Meta Description – A Blog’s Meta Description must contain the best description of what the Blog is about. Tell your visitor what to expect, and what kind of content they will have access to. The Meta Description must not exceed 160 characters, but as with the Site Title a lesser amount is suggested. Keep the Meta Description at around 155 characters to be safe.

Meta Keywords – This is where it gets a little more interesting, because Meta Keywords are no longer accepted by Google. In fact, the presence of Meta Keywords will reduce your Google Rating considerably.

Broken Links – You should frequently check on broken links within the in page URLs. These are post, page and comment links. Which is also why a spam blocker is important to your Blog, and the best way to do that is with a spam blocking plugin.

Underscores In Links – Underscores in links can also be referred to as unfriendly S.E.O characters in your In Page URLs. These include any special characters you have to enter by using the shift key on your keyboard. Always ensure that both page and post URLs do not contain any of these special characters.

Inline C.S.S Styles – Inline C.S.S Styles are found within the HTML code of images. Now there are thousands of sites on the internet where you can download high quality royalty free images. (Just search your browser for the search phrase “royalty free images”) My research have shown that these Inline C.S.S Styles, are less common in images from actual cameras. Designer or edited images however, seldom does not have Inline C.S.S. Styles and that is where you need to use a little more caution. But there’s another “trick” with Inline C.S.S Styles.

When an image contains Inline C.S.S Styles, and is used as a featured Image to a Blog Post then it will not interfere with the site’s Google Rating. When using such images as Header or Background images and that is when the site’s Google rating will be affected.

Favicon – Having a favicon alone can boost a Blog’s Google rating with 10 – 15%. A favicon is generally an image of preferably 200 x 200 pixels. A good Logo works well, and this is also the image that will be used should you decide to create an App. For example, when you open WordPress, the tiny blue “W” appear in the window tab to the top. That is the site favicon and when there is no favicon it will normally display as a tiny page image with a folded corner.

WWW Redirection – The www section of your site’s link must redirect to the primary domain. In other words the URLs will be http: // www (dot) Your Blog Domain (dot) com, and just http: // Your Blog Domain (dot) com. Both these URLs must redirect to the Blog’s Primary Domain.

Now once a site meet with the 23 from 25 requirements, it will have reached a Google Rating of 88% and there are only two requirements left. You can view the requirement compliance with a tool I use called “Small S.E.O Tools”, you may want to search your browser for this one and use the S.E.O Score Checker. From there you simply do a little editing and ensure your Blog comply with the 23 requirements.

The last 12% to a Google rating of 100% is made up from Domain and Page Authority. Increasing a site’s Domain and Page Authority requires a lot of useful content, but more importantly it requires time. Time is the only secret ingredient of success, because time is what builds knowledge.

Domain Authority – Domain Authority can be increased by ensuring all pages and posts consist of content above 1000 words, kept to a maximum of 2000 words. Google loves fresh interesting content, which is why Blogging is more preferred among successful affiliate marketers. Try including your Anchor Text within your page and post content. Anchor text is the text that your visitor will be more likely to enter in their browser to search for a specific product or information.

Page Authority – Page Authority will increase by the presence of comments and high quality back-links. Which is why it comes highly recommended to ensure that comments will require to be reviewed by the webmaster first. Spam blocking plugins normally do this automatically.

A manual way to ensure high quality back links, is to physically test each email address and URL shared by the visitor’s comment. You must never just blindly welcome all comments, it can do more harm than good. If either of these links don’t work, then that will just be another broken link pointing to your Blog and decrease the Google Rating.

Best to also be using an S.E.O plugin like “All in One S.E.O Pack” which can easily be installed from inside the Blog c-Panel. Plugins are some of the best tools to rank fast. Cloak affiliate links and much more. Affiliate Links can be cloaked to point back to the Blog Primary Domain.

That way sites like Facebook will not Flag, Block or Ban the link you share in your posts. But that is a topic for another time.

Wishing You Prosperity,

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Source by Deon Christie