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There are certain rules of thumb when it comes to learning how to bleed a diesel engine. There are dozens of different diesel fuel injection systems running around but the same principle applies to all of them. The main principle is removing the air out of the fuel system. Check out this scenario below.

So you find yourself driving down the road and suddenly your diesel engine starts to knock, lose power and pump out a bunch of white smoke. Finally it dies and after a few cranks you decide to check it out further. You find out the fuel tank is empty. The last time you checked your fuel level gauge it read half a tank, and you realize it still reads half a tank after driving 100 miles. A defective fuel gauge sender (located in the tank) is not an uncommon problem which causes more inconvenience with an engine shut down condition.

So now that you have determined the cause of the problem it is time to top up the tank with diesel and bleed the fuel system. Generally speaking diesels need a high pressure atomized spray that turns into a combustible mixture when combined with high compression. Compressed air heats up enough in the combustion chamber to ignite the mixture and provide the high power thrust that diesel engines are known for.

Step One – How To Bleed A Diesel Engine

The first thing to do is top up the tank and fill the primary fuel filter (closest to the fuel tank) with clean diesel fuel. This filter relies on vacuum or suction from the fuel transfer pump to keep it primed up and moving along to the secondary fuel filter. Diesel fuel transfer pumps are either mechanically driven off the camshaft or electric motor driven. If you are really blessed you might even have a hand priming pump built into the system.

Step Two – Removing Air From The Diesel Fuel Injection System

Any way you look at it, the main objective is to rid the fuel injection system of air. Loosening fuel lines is a common practice for older diesels. Loosen off fuel line fittings before the injection pump then work the hand priming pump until you see no more bubbles streaming from the loosened off fuel lines. This will assure that there is fuel to the injection pump.

Step Three – Bleeding A Bosch Mechanical Diesel Fuel Injection System

As an example the Bosch fuel injection pump found in Cummins diesel engines has a bleeder plug on the front, right side of the pump body and can be loosened off first while pumping the hand primer found on the driver side of the block. The mechanical fuel injection system on these engines have the fuel lines exposed for easy access. Loosen all of the injection lines at the head. Cranking over the engine will accelerate the air removal process. When the fuel system starts to pick up fuel the engine will try to start and stumble. At this point tighten the fuel lines and keep cranking over the engine, you will have fire power before you know it.

Bleeding An Electronic Diesel Fuel Injection System

Newer diesel engines went to an electric fuel transfer pump. As soon as you turn on the ignition key the pump kicks in and automatically primes the fuel system. Using the Cummins ISC diesel engine as and example, to prime you must fill the primary filter first with clean diesel fuel and install the secondary fuel filter dry. Once the ignition key is on the fuel transfer pump will prime the secondary filter with clean filtered fuel from the primary fuel filter.

Once you know how to bleed a diesel engine and go through it a couple of times you will see the importance of getting the air out of the lines. Air compresses and won’t allow any movement of diesel fuel resisting the build up of high pressures that diesel fuel injection systems require to start and run the engine.

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Source by John Whelan

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Pretty much all new cars nowadays are equipped with smart key technology, which has made putting a key into your car’s door to unlock it or into the ignition switch to start your car’s engine obsolete. Now you have a transmitter fob, which relies on radio frequencies to unlock a car’s doors and start its engine. At the beginning, when intelligent car keys were first introduced, they were mostly used in luxury cars, since it was an expensive technology, and it didn’t make sense to implement it in less expensive cars. Some of the most popular and advanced smart key systems include Mercedes-Benz’s Keyless Go integrated into SmartKeys, Toyota’s Smart Key System, Lincoln’s Intelligent Access System, and BMW’s Comfort Access.

Vehicles that come with such technology are equipped with computerized systems, and can identify the driver as they are approaching the car. The system uses several microchips and sensors that transmit information to the smart key, which opens the car’s doors thanks to a radio transponder chip that is installed in the key. This is a so called Passive Keyless Entry System, which doesn’t even require you to take your key out of your pocket or your bag and pushing a button to unlock the doors. Once you’ve entered your car, you can start the engine by pressing the engine start button.

These are perhaps the most significant advantages of intelligent over traditional car keys. In addition to being very convenient, they make your car difficult to steal. This is because thieves can’t unlock and start a car that has smart key features using the traditional method, that involves cutting some wires, then stripping and connecting them. The computer system in the car requires that the correct code from the smart key is transmitted, and if it doesn’t receive it, it won’t get the car going, no matter which and how many wires are cut and connected.

As far as the downsides are concerned, it’s worth noting that there are some added costs that come with owning a car with a smart key technology. If you happen to lose your smart key, it may cost you over $100 to replace it, whereas replacing a traditional key only costs $10 – $15. Plus, you can’t buy a new intelligent key wherever you want, since it’s a technology that is trademarked by your car’s manufacturer, and you can only get one at an authorized dealership, which means you’ll probably waste a lot of time and go through quite a hassle while trying to find a replacement key.

Furthermore, if you forget to turn off the engine before you leave the car, and leave the car in your garage, carbon monoxide will be released and it will get inside your house, which can result in fatal consequences.

To sum up, smart keys can definitely make your car rides more comfortable, but you have to keep an eye on them and try not to lose them, since you will have to pay a lot of money to replace them.

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Source by Jordan Perch

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Let me start this story with a bad analogy. If you went to a car dealer and was offered the choice between a Toyota and a less expensive Toyota look-alike which would you choose? The salesman would invariably tell you that there’s no difference because they are made in the same factory. Furthermore, that because the manufacturer didn’t put the Toyota label on the car, it is 20% cheaper. How could that be? All things being equal, it stands to reason that there has to be a qualitative reason for the difference in price. If not, then the reason for the difference in cost is that the name brand stuff is marked-up way too much. So much, in fact, that the manufacturer can make the same stuff, offer it as a private label and still make a decent profit. Or, maybe the look-alike Toyota was made by a car company you’ve never heard of.

To continue my argument on the first point, that being there’s a quality difference between the two. I wonder what the quality difference is between a no-label window blind and a well-known brand like Hunter Douglas, or Levolor. Do they use cheaper mechanisms and materials? That seems unlikely because it would cost them money to run two separate production lines to produce approximately the same blind or shade. I was shopping online for new vertical blinds and noticed a fairly significant price difference between what looked to be identical blinds – the brand name and the no-name. So I called their toll free number to inquire who made their signature line, I was told that it was a company called Springs. I have never heard of Springs unlike the Hunter Douglas brand which I have heard of. Few people could name more then two brands of blinds and shades at least I couldn’t until I started shopping for them. But, odds are, Hunter Douglas and Levolor are brands people know. They are huge companies and make all kinds of window treatments and fashions.

The plot thickens. It turns out that most, as far as I know, of the well-known blind manufacturers don’t sell a private label variety. They are more interested in preserving their brand integrity. So it would seem that the validity of my initial hypothesis has suffered some erosion. But all I really did was come full circle and back to my original question. Is there a quality difference between a well-known brand and a private label? If not, then the cost savings is probably not worth it. That is unless they come with the same warranty. For the most part they do.

I started reading the customer reviews to find out if there was a noticeable difference between ratings of the brand name blinds versus the private label blinds. Interestingly, and somewhat ironically, I noticed that the average rating was slightly lower for the Hunter Douglas blinds as opposed to the signature (private label) blinds. Maybe this was a case of increased expectations. People know Hunter Douglas, spent the big bucks and had correspondingly high expectations. Kind of like if you bought a Mercedes and the doors rattled or they used a cheap plastic for the climate control buttons.

In the end, I figured that between the high customer ratings, the cost savings and the similar warranties the private label blinds would do just find for me. I went ahead and purchased some vertical blinds and so far have been happy. I may be a tough customer but you know what they say, Caveat Emptor – Let the buyer beware.

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Source by Dave Sean Brooks

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Well ok, this is kind of a different subject, and probably not the most obvious to some. But I’ll guarantee some of us will be a little bit more informed, folks might even feel safer when they drive to work tomorrow. Whether you’re the consumer or an automotive sales consultant, this article will list a dozen important safety features found on every car on the road. The consumer can benefit knowing what’s on today’s automobiles, just in case he/she meets the salesman who is not the most educated on their product knowledge. And lastly, sales consultants can enhance their presentations with these tasty tid-bits and increase potential commissions. So without fail, here are the main safety features found on the exterior of those cars.

#1-crumple zones-A mainstay in today’s automobiles, this is the harmonic flow of numerous body panels and brackets that absorb the energy normally associated with a crash. Parts like the hood, bumper and fenders are engineered to crumple like an accordion, therefore taking the brunt in any accidental situations.

#2-Wraparound Headlights-Just like its name implies, it’s a one piece headlight design that integrates the low beam, high beam, and turn signals. The headlights wrap around from the front or back of the car to the sides. Not only are the halogen headlights brighter and wider with the use of reflective cuts in the chamber, but folks driving along our blind spots can easily know our lane changing intentions. As a result, causing less accidents.

#3-Breakaway Motor Mounts-These mounts attach the engine to the frame of the car. They’re not noticeable, but the life saving impact is huge. In a front impact collision, they’re specifically designed to break the engine away from the frame and with the forward motion, will make the engine slide underneath the car at a 45 degree angle. Making it less likely to have an engine sitting in your lap when the crash comes to a halt.

#4-steel belted radials-It’s pretty obvious, our tires are very important safety features, it is what keeps the car on the road. Tires are built with steel fibers built right in, how do they help? Well, motorists will have the peace of mind that their tires will hold up in even the most extreme conditions. Those belts will also give these tires a longer lasting life span. Less maintenance in the long run.

#5-ventilated disc brakes-Equally important as the tires are, disc brakes stop the car. Brakes are constructed of a rotor, pads, and calipers for short. The rotors are engineered with internal vanes, to help vent out the heat. And this will help defend against fade and making it less likely to repair the brakes often.

#6-Side Impact Door Beams-Like the crumple zones, this aids in absorbing energy in a side impact collision. They are steel intrusion beams built inside the door for extra reinforcement. Every car and truck have these.

#7-Laminated Windshield-This might be important, it is the very object that keeps bugs out of our teeth, and the rain out of our hair. The windshield is made up of two pieces of tempered glass with a laminate sheet in between. This is a glass sandwich that holds together well when sharp or heavy objects smash into it. There’s no shattering or large pieces of glass flying about.

#8-Tempered Safety Glass-The other glass that gives us 360 degrees of protection is also designed with safety in mind. Automotive glass is heat tempered, so that when it breaks, it shatters into a multitude of small cubes. The small cubes won’t cut or injure the occupants.

#9-Child Safety Door Locks-As this name indicates, they are small locks in the inside door jams of the rear two doors(4 door sedan or suv only). Lock them up and the little guys in the back seat can’t unlock and pull the inside door handles while we are driving.

#10-5 mph bumpers-I would classify this as a safety item for the car itself. In the event a driver lightly hits a lightpole, grocery cart, etc. at 5mph or under, it is unlikely there will be any major structural damage. These days, the government mandated limit to follow is 2.5 mph, most automakers have the 5 mph variety.

#11-Center High Mounted Brake Light-It’s actually just a 3rd brake light mounted higher than the two main brake lights, and most autos have them. They’re main purpose is to make drivers behind the motorist aware of their braking intentions, normally cars 6-10 back can see this clearly.

#12-Safety Cage Construction-Think of a built in rollcage, it’s the main exo-skeletal feature that provides the most protection. In every accidental situation, this protects 360 degrees. We can even literally turn a car or truck upside down on its roof, the cage will support 1.5x it’s own weight. There’s nothing more important.

Hence, there is our short list of safety features, hopefully you readers have a use for this information. And maybe, this will put more awareness at just how safe our cars really are. No longer will we pinpoint safety as just airbags and alarm systems, our daily drivers have been designed as intricately as the human body. All this for making our commutes, a safer one.

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Source by Shaun Patrick Davidson

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So you’re a college student who has landed your first interview for a college internship or full time job. Now if you’ve given it much thought, you’ve probably asked yourself “Self, What exactly are those recruiters looking for as an ideal answer to their questions?”

The first thing you should have probably asked is “Self, What are they going to ask me in that interview?” For that, please refer to my article Questions recruiters are likely to ask in an interview. After you’ve read through that, read on in this article!

Now that you know recruiters are very likely to ask you behavioral questions, the next thing to do is to figure out what they are looking for in an ideal response. And the wonderful thing is that there is a systematic response you can give to every single question they can throw at you! You just have to know how to formulate it. That’s where I come in.

In my very first interview freshman year (with General Electric), I thought I was providing great answers, had some great experiences to share, etc. I look at it now, and it’s no surprise I didn’t hear back from them. I even wonder how fast it took the recruiter to throw away my resume.

Here’s an example of mine of what not to do… The interviewer asked me “Tell me about a time you demonstrated leadership.” To which I responded fairly plainly “Well…I was Senior Patrol Leader in Boy Scouts for several years, that’s probably my best example of leadership.”

The interviewer was nice and tried to help me through the rest of the interview, but honestly, it was a train-wreck. I hope you can see why. Now I know you won’t ever do anything quite that bad, and I wrote this article to make sure of it.

Recruiters who use behavioral questions are looking for responses in what’s called the STAR format. That breaks down into:

Situation

Task

Actions Taken

Results

As long as you answer behavioral questions in that format, you cannot go wrong! And the cool part about it is that it flows in a logical order that keeps you on track. By practicing this format, you are guaranteed to answer questions fully and concisely.

So let’s get down to the details of the Situation component. The Situation is basically setting the stage for your response with the relevant background information. This includes where and when you were working (company, how old/what year in school), and maybe a bit of info on the problem you faced.

The Task blends slightly with the Situation, and is just as simple. This is something along the lines of “I was assigned to do x.” Plain and simple, it may be the most straight forward part of your response. Keep in mind that it also sets up the measuring stick for your results, so be sure that it is actually what you were assigned to do!

The Actions portion of your response should be where the meat of your answer is. You need to take this opportunity to say “I performed xyz analysis and used abc tools to do so.” or “I led the group by doing abc.” You also need to consider how technically savvy your interviewer is. If she/he is an engineer, then you can feel free to go into a few (but not too many!) details about what you did. If you get an HR person doing the interview, don’t even try to go into details, it probably won’t help!

The Results should also be very easy, but is without question the most important part of your response. As interviewers and companies are looking for candidates who have been extremely effective in their past jobs and experiences, this is where they look to determine if you are someone they want to hire. Use this opportunity to highlight your results, and their impact on the company: awards, cost savings, sales made, production improvement, etc. Don’t short change yourself on this section, its critical that you highlight every positive impact that you made!

I also must warn you not to exaggerate or lie about your accomplishments! This doesn’t ever help anyone in the process, especially if a company does their homework by calling your provided references to ask about you!

Finally, your response should take approximately 3-5 minutes total. Any longer, and you’ve lost the attention of your interviewer. Any shorter, and you probably haven’t gotten your message across either.

A good interviewer will also probe you with questions like “Tell me more about that” or will guide you along with “So what was the result of that?” All I can say is don’t rely on them to help you along. Ace it the first time through!

Here is an example of one of my responses all put together. See if you can pick out each section. I used this response typically for a question along the lines of “Tell me about a time you faced a difficult technical challenge.”

“While working at NASA, Kennedy Space Center, I was in an organization that was doing preliminary design work for the Launch Pad systems of new rockets we are using to go to the Moon and Mars. We received Flight Vehicle Commodity Loading requirements from Johnson Space Center and Marshall Space Center, and then designed the Launch Pad accordingly.”

“My boss had originally given an assignment to a Contractor and was not happy with their progress. I was assigned to take over the project, lead the contractor, and come up with multiple conceptual solutions for providing a specified amount of liquid helium to the vehicle on the launch pad and cost estimates for each method within 2 weeks.”

“To do this, I learned as much as I could about liquid helium, utilizing in-house resources such as reference books, other people in the department knowledgeable on the subject, etc. I considered multiple options: starting with atmospheric liquid helium, or with pressurized gaseous ambient helium, the use of expansion valves, compressors, heat exchangers, etc. I learned about heat exchanger design, heat exchanger fluids, efficiency/effectiveness, etc. I worked with heat exchanger companies to get details, and had the contractor do detail work here.”

“I also knew very little about cost estimating, so I worked with the contractor (who had experience here) to learn broad strokes and details here. I also worked back and forth with the contractor to ensure that technical details were correct.”

“In the end, I wrote a technical report to summarize all data, assumptions, and everything so that it could be easily reviewed by peers, and easily applied in the future after I had left for school. The concept study and cost estimate were turned in on time to my boss, who was pleased. In the end, we created a detailed 35 page study report, which was sent to people at Marshall Space Flight Center and Johnson Space Center who gave it their thumbs up. The format I used for the report was standardized as “Boilerplate” for the organization reports, and I was awarded a NASA On The Spot Award.”

This response fit neatly into about 3-4 minutes, and covers all of the components of the STAR format. Interviewers loved it (and told me that they did) because it flowed so well and I had demonstrated fantastic results. I encourage you to write out your examples too, as this can make them clearer and simpler. Good Luck!

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Source by Robert Halgren

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Car air conditioning systems that blow warm on one side and cold on the other side usually have one of two problems. In this short auto repair article, a master automotive technician shares his experience, derived from working on air conditioners in Florida for the last couple of decades. This free information can be equally helpful to the do-it-yourselfer as it is to a consumer that knows the value of being informed when it comes to dealing with car repair shops. Read on for free car A/C help when the air is blowing warm on ONE side.

Usually cars that blow cold on one side of the dash and warm on the other side, are typically equipped with a dual zone climate control system. Dual zone systems allow the driver and front passenger to adjust respective temperatures to their comfort levels. There are two common causes of a temperature difference when both sides are set at the coldest settings, lets cover the first one.

Low Refrigerant

Automotive air conditioners which use 134A, usually hold a small amount of refrigerant compared to older automobiles that use R12. Car and truck air conditioners today are much more efficient than their older counter parts. The fact that 134A systems use less freon, means that a leak can more quickly affect the performance of an HVAC (Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning) system. Due to the design of dual AC systems, low refrigerant is the leading cause of drastic temperature difference from one side of the dash to the other. Even well experienced car mechanics may be surprised to learn that as little as 4 to 8 ounces undercharged of 134A can make such a huge difference. The temperature from the left vent to the right vent can vary 10 to 20 degrees. The easiest thing to try is to top off the system or better yet, remove all freon and recharge the unit with the factory specified amount. In most cases after the proper charge of Freon is in the car, the temp will blow equally as cold like it should on BOTH sides!

What if that didn’t help? Read on to learn of another possible cause of the problem.

HVAC Door Issue

Dual zones supplying different temperatures from vents on either side of the dash is achieved by the use of small doors within the HVAC housing. By controlling the doors, the temperature of the air on the left and right can be adjusted to the desired comfort level. Many times the motor (or actuator) that controls the door for either side can fail or the door itself can break and prevent the temp. from being adjusted. Diagnosing this problem is more complex and can be a subject for another article. Thanks for reading. Hopefully, the free information provided here will help to remedy the problem of “AC’s blowing hot or warm from one side of the dash.”

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Source by Dennis Bandy

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The long arm of car repair insurance doesn’t stop at extended warranties or tire road hazard insurance. Marketing gurus have found all sorts of knick knacks to insure. Among the top are ding and dent protection plans. Ding and dent insurance is growing steadily, and addresses those unsightly shopping cart and parking lot dings.

Dings and dents are fairly synonymous terms, although a ding is smaller than a dent. You’ll notice a dent. You’ll need to squint, or catch the vehicle in the right angle or sunlight to see a ding. Some dings are smaller than eraser heads.

Like extended warranties or tire insurance, dent and ding protection plans promise to pay for damages in part or in full for a specific period of time. These plans are primarily sold by new car dealerships and cost a few hundred dollars.

Ding and Dent Repair: Paintless Dent Repair

Ding and dent repair is called PDR, short for Paintless Dent Repair. There are many companies that perform this service: Ding Doctor, Ding King, No Dents, Dent Wizard…the list goes on. Some are better then others, although ultimately it’s up to the skill of the PDR technician. Prices are similar.

How is it done?

Most PDR techniques are non-intrusive. The PDR technicians use specially designed tools and gadgets to slip behind the damaged panels and manipulate and massage the damaged metal back to its original form.

Does it work?

Actually, it’s incredible! It works so well that in the majority of cases the dings and dents are completely removed. They’re invisible, gone, can’t-believe-your-eyes fixed.

I saw a soccer-ball-sized dent removed from the rear fender of a $120,000 car. The dent also had a large crease, which makes repairs even harder. After thirty minutes there was no visible detection that a dent was ever there. The repair cost the client $400. Traditional body shop estimates were hovering at $2700.

PDR positives

• Very low cost compared to traditional body shops
• Same day repairs–even while-you-wait service
• No paint work, sanding, or traditional bodywork required
• Original paint remains–helps retain vehicles looks and value
• Body panels remain intact–maintaining structural integrity

PDR negatives

• PDR does not address scratches or paint chips that are often associated with dings (Many PDR companies will address chips and scratches, but it’s not PDR technology)
• Many areas of body panels are not accessible, so PDR is not an option
• Plastic bumpers or any plastic components can’t be fixed with PDR techniques. Since the bumper is the most common area to get damaged, this is a significant downside of PDR technology.
• Some damage can occur to door panels, paint, interiors, window glass and hardware, although damage of any kind is rare.

Do you need PDR insurance?

God, no!

Should you get your dings fixed using PDR techniques?

Hell, yes!

Let me explain…

Insuring against dings and dents does not make economic sense. Ding repairs average around $50 per ding. Some dings cost $99 to $149 to repair. Two to four dings can run $100 to $450, depending on the size of the dent. Insurance at this level is just not necessary. Moreover, it’s a gamble you will lose.

To benefit from a $300, two-year plan, your vehicle would need to sustain multiple “PDR repairable” dings or dents. Despite your coverage, you may not even notice the dings, making a claim impossible. Also, despite the amazing PDR techniques, they can’t fix everything, especially the chips and scratches that so frequently accompany a ding–should dings even occur.

Yes, get your dings fixed with PDR (if they’re bothering you), but don’t buy an insurance plan.

Protection plan economics 101

An article by Terence O’Hara in the Washington Post is a wonderful piece on the insanity of protection plans, and is applicable here. He writes:

The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.

…extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain. In this case, the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

Fix your dings

Fix your dings and dents (if you want) as they come–maybe every spring. Fixing dings keeps your car looking pristine, and increases its value. But don’t bother with a protection plan. Save your money.

Hold off on that paint job

Quality paintless dent repair is often a great substitute for those considering full paint jobs. Whenever possible, it’s best to keep the original paint. Good PDR combined with a professional detail can restore vehicles to show room condition for less than $500.

Go with the best

Since 1983 Dent Wizard has been pioneering PDR technology. Their PDR technicians undergo extensive and ongoing training. The rates are reasonable and the quality is excellent. Always request a master PDR technician, as there are various levels of abilities.

Check with local dealers

Dealerships in your area may offer Dent Wizard. Your vehicle does not have to be of the same make as the dealership. In other words, you can bring your Chevy to a Ford dealer for PDR work.

Myths

Do it yourself paintless dent repair is easy.

No it ‘s not. It requires training, skill, and experience. There are many who practice PDR techniques who crack or flake the paint, or who create ripples in the metal.

The PDR products sold on TV do the same thing.

No! Not even close. There’s no good substitute for the art of PDR.

Scratch and dent repair are the same thing.

No. A ding is a small dent, which can often be repaired via paintless dent repair procedures. A scratch is an actual break in the surface of the clear coat or paint, requiring traditional body shop techniques, or touch up paint.

It’s easy to learn how to repair dents on cars.

Maybe for some, but it’s a skill that few master. Dent Wizard offers a great training program. The management and staff are top notch.

What’s the best car dent removing protection plan?

Money in your bank account!

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Source by Theodore Olson

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What is frit? Frit is an industry term for the paint that is applied around the perimeter of the automotive glass parts. One of the key ingredients in frit is a glass ceramic particle that fuses to the glass surface making it a very durable and scratch resistant surface.

Why is frit (paint) on the glass? Frit serves two roles on the glass. First, it is a cosmetic feature that is used to hide interior trim and pinchweld details. Early model vehicles used wide moldings to obscure what would otherwise be exposed areas. As moldings became smaller to the point of nonexistence on several current models, the frit had a greater role in covering unfinished areas of the vehicle. Secondly, the frit inhibits UV degradation of urethane adhesives. While the frit will not completely block the UV rays from passing through the glass, it does significantly reduce UV light transmission. Most urethanes are not UV stable. If urethane is left exposed to sunlight for prolonged periods of time, it will yellow and turn chalky. Presence of the frit will extend the lifetime of the urethane adhesive system.

How many types of frit are there? There are hundreds of types of frits developed for automotive glass applications. The most common automotive glass frits we use are black, gray and white although other colors are available. Frit pastes are developed to work in combination with the processing requirements needed for a specific part. Each paste is developed for the specific furnace time and temperature parameters used to fabricate parts at a manufacturing location. It is not uncommon for a glass manufacturing facility to work with a dozen different frit pastes.

How is frit applied to the glass? Frit is applied to the glass utilizing a silk screen method. It is very similar to the method used to silk screen T-shirts. An image of the frit design is developed for the glass in the bent or curved shape. Then the image is unwrapped and flattened. A silk screen is made to allow the frit to pass through openings in the screen. The openings correspond to the final design image. The frit is a thick paste that is put onto the screen. Squeegees are used to push the frit paste through the screen openings and onto the glass. Frit is applied to the glass while it is in the flat position before it is processed through the furnace. The furnace helps to cure the frit and to fuse it to the glass surface. Every part with each different design has a unique silk screen. Silk screens are constantly being maintained throughout the life of a part. Because of the fragile nature of the screens, they will wear out and commonly need to be remade throughout the lifetime of a part in production.

What is Batch glass? Batch is a glass reference term that identifies a part of the manufacturing process. The raw components of glass are properly proportioned and mixed in batches for delivery to the furnace. Even though glass is made in a continual process that runs 24 hours a day, every day of the year, the raw materials are added as needed in batches. To state that a glass is batch glass, it implies that there is not any post manufacturing materials, i.e. a film or coating, applied to the glass. Batch glass gets all its characteristics from the raw materials that are used to make the glass. In the case of privacy or solar batch glass, the dark colorants and UV inhibitors are mixed in with the original ingredients in the batch to make the glass.

What is Float glass? Float glass refers to the glass manufacturing process. The raw components of glass are melted in a furnace between a temperature range of 240OF to 2850 F. A continual process is established as the molten glass is moved from the furnace to the tin bath where it is supported on molten tin until the glass cools from the slurry state to a temperature where the glass becomes solid. The float process was developed by Pilkington during 1950’s and is now considered the primary state of the art process for manufacturing automotive and architectural glass.

What is the tin side and what is the air side of glass? As mentioned earlier, the float glass process involves floating molten glass on.molten tin. The molten tin is smooth enough to give glass its flat surfaces. The tin and glass are like oil and water, they don’t mix. However, the side of glass that is in contact with tin during the float process does pick up a microscopic layer of tin. This is considered the tin side of float glass. The top side of glass is called the air or atmosphere side. To detect the tin side of glass, hold an UV light at an angle to the glass surface. The tin side will glow and the air side will not.

What is Soft-Ray and what is Solar-Ray’? Soft-Ray and Solar-Ray are GM Trademarks for the glass used in their vehicles. It identifies the TYPE of glass used for construction and can appear on either laminated or tempered glass. LOF uses E-Z-Eye glass for the production of Soft-Ray parts and EZKool solar control glass for Solar-Ray parts. PPG uses Solex and Solar Green respectively. Deep Tint Solar-Ray is another GM trademark that appears on dark colored solar control parts.

What is a monogram? A monogram is often referred to as the bug or trademark. Every automotive piece of glass is required by law to have an identifying mark on the glass that will be visible once that glass is in the correctly installed position in the vehicle. These marks are usually painted on the glass, but they can also be sand blasted or acid etched into the surface.

What is in a monogram? For automotive applications, there are certain governmental items that must be in the monogram including a department of transportation (DOT) number, the model (M) number and the glass type (AS-1, AS-2, AS-3 etc.) Monograms can also include information such as the brand name of the glass, the company name that made the glass, the company logo, the country of origin and a date code identifying when the glass was manufactured.

Is there anyway to determine what a part is by the monogram on the glass? Unfortunately, the majority of monograms do not have any information in it to help determine what an unmarked part is. However, we are starting to see more parts marked with the NAGS number in the Monogram. As more of this is done, it will be easier to correctly identify unknown parts.

2-What is the difference between AS-1, AS-2 and AS-3 glasses codes? For automotive applications, the three most common types of glass are AS-1, AS-2, and AS-3. All windshields must be marked with the AS-1 code which is on laminated glass having light transmission greater than 70%. All tempered glass that has light transmission above 70% is marked with an AS-2 code. All glass, laminated or tempered, that has less then 70% light transmission will have an AS-3 Code.

What is a DOT code? The DOT number identifies the glass manufacturer. The acronym DOT stands for Department of Transportation. Each glazing manufacture must apply for a DOT number in order to sell glazings for vehicles in the United States of America. Each DOT number is assigned by the government and is unique for every manufacturer. Every piece of glass that is made must contain that DOT code if it is to be sold in the automotive market.

What is an M number? The M number is a model number that is assigned by all glass manufacturing companies. Each company establishes their own M number system that is unique to that organization. The M number identifies the specific glass construction. It can identify the glass details used to manufacture a part such as glass color and thickness. One Model number might apply to 50 different part numbers. Each Model number is tested every year for compliance with the governmental regulations. Most of the time, a part number cannot be determined by the M number.

How can I determine whether the glass in a car is original or a replacement? If you don’t know the history of the car, one-way to identify a piece of glass is to check the monogram on the glass. If you, knew the manufacturer of the original glass, check the DOT (Department of Transportation) number on the glass in the car. If the DOT number doesn’t belong to the OE glass supplier, then the part was a replacement. If the number does match, then check the date code on the glass. Most manufacturers mark the monogram with a means of identifying the month and year of glass production, sometimes even the date and shift! Since each company does it differently, you’ll have to contact the appropriate manufacturer for their date code conventions, which can include combinations of letters, numbers or even dots over various letters. By comparing the date of the glass with the date of the car assembly, you can determine if they are the same vintage. If the glass date closely matches the vehicle assembly date, chances are the glass is original.

Which side of the vehicle is the right hand side? The RIGHT hand side of the vehicle is the PASSENGER’S side of the vehicle. The DRIVER’S side of the vehicle would be the LEFT-hand side. Rule of thumb, right and left sides are determined by picturing yourself sifting in the car.

When should a non-conductive adhesive be used? If the adhesive will contact the antenna or defroster lines when the part is installed, use a non-conductive adhesive. Non-conductive adhesives prevent interference with antenna systems and heated defroster systems that are contained in the glass. Many new glass parts have the antenna, defroster connections or buss bars around the edge of the glass in the same area that the adhesive is applied to install a glass part. Using a conductive adhesive will affect the performance of the electrical system. Several adhesive manufacturers offer a non-conductive product for these glass applications. Be sure to follow the manufacturers specific instructions for the adhesive system you use.

How do installation methods cause stress cracks? Installation related cracks usually result from a short cut out method, where all of the old urethane bed is not removed prior to installation. If the shape and form of the new glass is not identical to the old urethane bed, the glass could have spots of interference on the adhesive that lead to breaking. Installation related stress could also be formed by using adhesives that are too rigid and don’t offer the compression and flexibility required of the adhesive system. Usually, installation related stress cracks would develop over time after the adhesive has been allowed to fully cure.

What is tempered glass? Tempered glass is a single piece of glass that is strengthened through a rapid cooling process. This cooling process tempers the glass by blasting both the top and bottom surfaces with air. The outside surfaces of the glass cool faster than the core of the glass. This action sets up a balance of strains between the surfaces and the core which adds considerable strength to the glass. Tempered glass is difficult to break, but if broken it breaks into small granular pieces.

How are tempered parts made? Glass of the specified thickness is cut to the desired size. Any artwork or paint design is applied to the glass while it is in the flat position. This includes any heated grid lines or antenna lines required on the final part. The glass is loaded into a furnace and is heated to temperatures of 12,000 F. There are multiple processes that could be used to bend the glass as it exits the furnace including roll.

How much force is required to break a tempered backlite? While the strength of tempered glass can seem very high, it is important to recognize that the manner in which tempered glass is broken will affect the strength. Tempered glass is extremely difficult to break with dull, blunt objects. Tempered glass can have a rupture strength of up to 24,000 pounds per square inch. Recall that tempered glass is produced by rapid cooling of the outside glass surfaces which sets up a stress / strain balance.

Why do the heated grid lines on heated backlites sometimes have a redbrown color and other times have a yellow color? The color of the grid lines is predominately determined by the surface of glass that they are printed on. The lines will have a dark appearance when printed on the tin side of glass. The lines will have a brighter yellow or amber color when printed on the air side of glass. Other colors, such as white or light gray, may indicate a potential manufacturing problem with the heated grid lines such as an under fired condition or too much silver. These can result in a heated backlite that does not function correctly.

Is it a defect to see discolored spot patterns on tempered glass? No, the discolored spot patterns on a piece of glass are actually a phenomenon of the tempering process. During tempering, air is forced onto the glass through hundreds of nozzles. The spots are areas where the cool air contacts the glass. The temper spot pattern can indicate how well a piece of glass is tempered. The size and consistency of the discolored areas will vary with the exact process used, but they are present on all tempered parts. The ability to see these patterns is dependent on the angle ‘ of installation and the lighting conditions. For example, it is easier to see the patterns on a sloping piece of glass at dusk than it is to see them on a vertical piece in bright sunlight.

What is an Innershield? The innershield is a layer of plastic on the innermost piece of glass which was most commonly used on the windshield. The innershield prevented lacerations on an occupant’s head and face if they came in contact with the windshield in the event of an accident. The innershield was a popular option on deluxe vehicles about ten years ago.

How is a shadeband put into a windshield? The shadeband is pre-tinted onto the plastic that is placed between the glass plies. The plastic comes in rolls and one end of the roll has the shade color. During processing, it may be required to warp the plastic to curve the shadeband so it will match the curve of the top of, the windshield. After warping, the plastic is cut to size and it is ready to use.

What is delamination? Delamination is the separation of the glass plies and plastic layer in a laminated product such as a windshield. This is also known as an unbonded area (UBA) or an oil blow. Old autoclaving process used hot petroleum to laminate windshields and the oil could seep into the edges causing the windshield to delaminate.

What is bullet proof glass and how is it different from bullet resistant glass? Bullet proof glass is glass that will stop a bullet. Any bullet. To make a glass bullet proof, every type of bullet from every type of gun must be taken into consideration during the design of the glass. Bullet proof glass is actually a composite of glass and plastic layers laminated together to achieve a strong composite that will stop a bullet. Bullet proof glass will be three or more inches thick. Bullet resistant glass is designed for applications with a resistance to a range of specific bullet calibers. Bullet resistance glass can be obtained in a 3/4 inch thick composite of glass and plastics laminated together. On vehicle applications, the environmental end use is considered for the glass design. If a vehicle is outfitted with bullet proof or bullet resistant glazing, all the interior trim must also be reworked to accommodate the thicker glass.

What are stress cracks? Stress cracks are breaks from the edges of laminated glass, such as a windshield, that happen without an impact point or noticeable damaged area. While this phenomenon can occur with seemingly no apparent cause, there are however, two major factors that have a role in creating stress cracks. The stress crack can be caused by a manufacturing defect within the glass or it can be attributed to the installation methods.

How do glass defects cause stress cracks? Stress cracks can occur if the two plies of glass used to make the laminated part are not completely homogenous with each other. Stress cracks can be a condition of tension or compression that exist within the glass. Stress can also be caused by incomplete annealing or temperature difference between the plies. Manufacturing processes include multiple quality checkpoints for every individual part during production to identify and eliminate defective parts. Even so, it can be difficult to predict a stress crack due to manufacturing conditions.

I have often heard of a windshield surface referred to as the number 1, 2, 3 or 4 surface. What do these numbers mean? The windshield surface number refers to the glass surface of the individual glass plies in the laminated composite. A basic windshield construction is composed of two pieces of glass with a plastic layer in between. The surfaces are counted from OUTSIDE the vehicle. Therefore, surface number 1 is the outside surface of the exterior glass piece that would be exposed once installed in the vehicle. Surface number 4 is the innermost surface which would be on the interior of the vehicle once installed. Surface number 4 is the surface that is prepped with primers, cleaners and or activators required for installation. Surface # 2 and 3 are interior surfaces that are in contact with the plastic.

What is laminated glass? Laminated glass is constructed of two pieces of glass with a piece of plastic in between the glass plies. One type of plastic innerlayer used is PVB or polyvinyl butyral. Laminated glass is required to make windshields in the US.

How are windshields made? Two separate pieces of glass are cut to size. While the glass is flat it is printed with the artwork design (frit) that’s required. The glass is put through a furnace to soften the glass and fire the frit to the glass surface. Once the glass reaches the right temperature, it is molded into shape and then cooled. After shaping, the glass/ plastic/ glass sandwich is put in a clean room and then put into an autoclave. An autoclave is like a giant pressure cooker. The high pressure squeezes the glass and plastic together. The higher temperature softens the plastic, which bonds the glass and plastic layers together. Once the glass exits the autoclave, any excess plastic is trimmed and the mirror mount is applied to the glass. The glass is inspected and cleaned several times throughout the entire process to make sure it has been manufactured to the highest quality standards. After a final inspection, the finished part is now ready to ship.

What is the Breakaway Bracket? Several new GM and Ford windshields have a Breakaway Bracket. This refers To the mirror button on the windshield. This style mirror button allows the rearviewmirror to snap off when the passenger air bag is deployed. If the rear view mirror did not snap off, there is a possibility that the mirror could puncture the air bag rendering it ineffective. The accessory tool used to remove these snap off rearview mirrors is the MB-4. TIP: Put Breakaway rearview mirrors back on the glass before installing the windshield. This will prevent moving a newly installed windshield out of place with the force required to snap the mirror on the glass.

How is a windshield glass molded into shape? There are two common practices for shaping a windshield, gravity bending and press bending. Gravity bending has been used longer than press bending. For gravity bending, two pieces flat glass ride through the furnace on a mold contoured like the finished part. As the glass softens, the force of gravity pulls the glass into shape. This pair of gravity bent glass is then kept together throughout the rest of the windshield process. In a press bending operation, the single lites of glass go through a furnace on a flat surface of high temperature resistant rollers. As the glass exits the furnace it is quickly pressed into shape between a male and female mold contoured like the finished product. The glass is then cooled and moved to the next process.

How can I determine if a diversity or non-diversity antenna backlite is needed? The diversity antenna will use a combination of antennas in order to perform efficiently. Most diversity-antennas are offered with vehicle upgrade packages. A standard car model may only have the mast antenna, whereas the deluxe luxury package may incorporate a diversity antenna in the backlite with the mast antenna. How to determine the need for a diversity antenna will differ depending on the vehicle. The current Toyota Camry has extra speakers (6 total) on the vehicle that uses a diversity antenna and only 4 speakers on the vehicle that uses the non-diversity antenna.

Can an antenna or heated backlite clip be reattached to the glass if it has fallen off? Clips, or tabs, can be reattached to the glass. In order to determine if the connection is repairable, the surface of the glass must be evaluated. If there are any chunks of glass (called spalls) missing from the surface, the repair should not be made and the glass should be replaced. Spalls will weaken the glass and could eventually result in glass breakage. Next, select the adhesive to be used to reattach the clips. There are a few companies that manufacture a conductive adhesive system that can be used to reattach the tabs. The adhesive must be conductive so it will allow the electrical current pass between the lines on the glass and the vehicle. Follow the manufacture’s directions for the repair. Regular super glue adhesives will not work because they are non-conductive. HINT: Be sure to clean both the glass surface and the clip surface of old debris. Also, let the repaired part sit for the recommended cure time so the adhesive bond is fully developed.

Will a broken heated grid line on a backlite affect the operation of the antenna? Many new radio and cellular phone antenna designs are incorporated into the heated grid design in the backlite. If a heated grid line is broken it will affect the performance of the antenna. The line break will become more noticeable with the general public as diversity antennas gain popularity and reduce the need for traditional mast antennas. There are aftermarket grid line repair systems available which can restore both the heating and the antenna characteristics of the grid line.

What is a Rain Sensor windshield? Several vehicle manufacturers, including Cadillac, Mercedes Benz and BMW, are now offering Rain Sensor windshields. The rain sensor is actually a small electronic device mounted to the inside surface of the windshield. The device has a lens that will detect the presence of moisture on the outside surface of glass. When moisture is present, a signal is sent to the wiper control that automatically activates the windshield wipers. This a great safety option for those misty periods when a driver is passing trucks and road spray hits the windshield. The windshield wipers will activate without the need for the driver to remove his hands from the wheel or his eyes from the road.

Does the rain sensor module come on the replacement windshield? No. At this time, none of the rain sensor designs require the sensor to be applied by the manufacturer on the replacement windshields. The electronic sensor that is on the existing windshield in the car must be removed and re-mounted onto the replacement windshield.

How is the rain sensor attached to the replacement windshield? There are special re-attachment kits for the replacement industry, available through your local Car dealer, which can be used to re-attach the electronic rain sensor to the new windshield. The Cadillac kit consists of tape, cleaners and primers for replacing the Cadillac module. The Mercedes / BMW kit contains the tape and a new lens. Instructions for application are included in all the kits.

Is it normal for HUD display to appear faded in bright light conditions? Bright sunlight or high glare conditions can result in a dimmer display of the Head’s Up display. It is normal for a HUD to appear brighter at night in darker conditions that during the day under full sun. It is not normal for the HUD to completely disappear. If the display is fading when the car changes momentum, such as when turning a corner or accelerating, then the problem could be a system defect and it’s recommended that a dealer check out the electronics. There is nothing in the windshield to cause the display to fade or appear less intense.

What is a diversity antenna? A diversity antenna combines the reception from several individual antennas on the vehicle that makes it a very efficient antenna system. The definition of diverse means different, therefore a diversity antenna in a backlite is one that could Work with the mast (pillar) antenna mounted to the car. The two different antennas work together to achieve superior AM/FM radio reception. The 1998 Cadillac Seville has a diversity antenna system that consists of an antenna in the windshield and antenna in the backlite that work together.

What is a non-diversity antenna? A non-diversity antenna system relies on only one antenna for radio wave reception. Several examples of non-diversity antenna include 1) a mast antenna mounted to the vehicle 2) an antenna printed on the backlite or 3) a set of wires mounted into the windshield. A non-diversity antenna will not be a combination.

Can a break in a HUD (Heads-Up-Display) windshield be repaired or must it be replaced? A break in the HUD windshield can be repaired like a normal non-HUD windshield. If the repair area is in the HUD image area, a repair may interfere with the image causing a double or distorted image. Therefore, consideration is required to determine if the type and size of break is repairable without HUD interference.

Passivated glass refers to chemically coated glass. Many automotive glass parts are coated to achieve either the solar control characteristics or the privacy features. The coating can usually be detected by the reflective, mirror-like appearance. Sometimes these coatings will also have a color associated with them and can make the glass look blue, pink or amber. The solar coatings are used to filter out the sun’s ultraviolet and infrared wavelengths while the privacy coatings filter out visible light wavelengths. The wavelengths that are filtered out by coated glass, include the wavelength spectrums that CB radios, cellular phones, automated toll readers and radar detectors operate on. Therefore, the chemically coated glass can interfere with the operation of electronic devices that require a glass-mounted antenna.

What type of glass is recommended for a glass-mounted antenna? Glass that is referred to, as BATCH glass is compatible with glass mounted antennas. Solar and privacy batch glass is not coated like the passivated glass. Instead, the raw materials that give the glass its solar or privacy characteristics are added at the time the glass is made. The raw materials are melted right in with the sand and other components that glass are constructed from. Once the glass has been made, it would not need any other treatments prior to fabrication into automotive glass parts. Batch glass is uniform throughout the thickness of the glass. Coated parts are surface treated; the surface has different properties than the core of the glass.

Are there any special hints for re-attaching the rain sensor? Make sure the glass is very clean prior to attaching the sensor. The performance of the sensors depends on the optically clear grades of doublefaced tape used for reattaching the units. These tapes also need to be clean and free of bubbles when applied to the glass. Any impurities that may be present will give a false signal to the rain sensor causing it to activate unnecessarily.

What does the term “Auto-Cancel” refer to in the NAGS catalog? The Auto Cancel notation means the electrical input to the heated backlite design is automatically canceled after a specified time and/or temperature. Most heated backlites made today are for automatic cancellation systems. However, there are a few parts such as the Isuzu Trooper backlites where a different glass heated design is required for the automatic vs. the manual systems. For example, FB4815 is for an automatic cancellation heated grid system whereas FB4816 is for a manual cancellation heated grid system. 8-What is the difference between a heavy-duty heated backglass and a standard heated backglass? The heavy-duty back glass is rated for higher amperage. The Heavy-Duty (HD) designation is predominately used on foreign cars such as Honda and Toyota vehicles. Normal domestic vehicles were rated for 22 amps whereas heated backlites in Asian vehicles were generally rated for 11 amps. Amperage relates to speed of performance. The higher the amperage, the faster the backglass will heat and clear the frost from the glass. To accommodate the US market, many foreign car manufacturers developed the HD back glasses to offer compatible defrosting performance in the US. The heavy-duty backglass are an upgrade, but it does not interchange with the standard design.

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Source by Michael Monaghan

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Consumer Reports recently released its predictions of short-term reliability for sport-utility vehicles. The predictions are based on the infrequency of serious problems within the most-recent 3 or fewer model years, depending on the availability of data. This article lists the Top 5 and Bottom 10 by CR’s predicted reliability in each of the categories Small SUVs, Midsize SUVs, Luxury SUVs, and Large SUVs.

The Top 5 Small SUVs of 2011 by CR’s predicted short-term reliability are:

Honda CR-V

V6 Toyota RAV4

Mitsubishi Outlander

4-cylinder Toyota RAV4

Non-turbo Subaru Forester.

The Honda CR-V and the 4-cylinder RAV4 have an excellent 2010 long-term reliability history as well. The CR-V has Consumer Reports highest reliability rating (Much Better Than Average) for 8 of the 2000 to 2009 model years and its second highest rating (Better Than Average) for the remaining two model years. The 4-cylinder RAV4 has CR’s highest rating for 9 of the model years and its second highest rating for the remaining model year.

The Top 5 Midsize SUVs of 2011 are:

Toyota FJ Cruiser

4-cylinder Toyota Highlander

V6 Toyota Highlander

V6 Hyundai Santa Fe

Nissan Pathfinder.

Of these 5, the V6 Toyota Highlander has an excellent long-term reliability history. For the model years 2000 to 2009, it has CR’s highest rating for 9 of the model years and its second highest rating for the remaining model year.

The Top 5 Luxury SUVs of 2011 are:

Lexus LX

Acura MDX

Lincoln Navigator

Lexus RX350

Lincoln MKT.

The Lexus RX and the Lexus LX have excellent long-term reliability ratings as well. For 2010, the RX has CR’s highest reliability rating for 9 of the ten most recent model years and its second highest rating for the remaining model year. The large made-in-Japan Lexus LX has CR’s highest rating for 8 of its 9-year data history and its second highest rating for the remaining year.

The Acura MDX has a less notable history, with a Much-Better-Than-Average rating for only 3 of the model years and a Better-Than-Average rating for the remaining 6 model years.

The Top 5 Large SUVs are:

Ecoboost Ford Flex

Toyota Sequoia

Front-wheel-drive Chevrolet Traverse

Chevrolet Suburban 2500

Yukon XL 2500.

The Ecoboost rating is based on only one model year of data. The Toyota Sequoia has only a mediocre long-term reliability, although it has a notable 2011 reliability rating. The 2011 rating of the Traverse, Suburban, and XL are rather mediocre. It may be best to avoid this group entirely, unless the price of a luxury sport-utility vehicle is prohibitive or vehicular dimensions force a purchase.

The Bottom 10 (11 by tie) Small SUVs by 2011 predicted short-term reliability, in ascending order (worst first), are:

Dodge Nitro

Jeep Liberty

4-cylinder, all-wheel-drive Mazda Tribute

4-cylinder, all-wheel-drive Ford Escape

V6, all-wheel-drive Mazda Tribute

V6, all-wheel-drive Ford Escape

Jeep Compass

V6, front-wheel-drive Mazda Tribute

V6, front-wheel-drive Ford Escape

4-cylinder, front-wheel-drive Mazda Tribute

4-cylinder, front-wheel-drive Ford Escape.

The Dodge Nitro and Jeep Liberty have fared poorly in avoiding reported serious problems. For model years 2007 and 2008 (the only two offering reliability ratings in 2010), the Nitro had one Much-Worse-Than-Average rating and one Worse-Than-Average rating. For the Jeep Liberty’s four most-recent model years, two of the 2010 reliability ratings were Much Worse Than Average and two were Worse Than Average.

The Bottom 10 Midsize SUVs, with worst first, are:

Dodge Journey

4-door Jeep Wrangler

4-cylinder GMC Terrain

V6 GMC Terrain

Nissan Xtrerra

Turbo Mazda CX-7

Hyundai Veracruz

2-door Jeep Wrangler

V6 Chevrolet Equinox

V6 Kia Sorento.

Notable for poor 2010 longer-term reliability ratings are the Chevrolet Equinox and Kia Sorento. The Equinox has 3 Much-Worse-Than-Average or Worse-Than-Average ratings out of its 5-year data history and the Sorento has 4 such out of its 6-year data history.

The Bottom 10 Luxury SUVs, with worst first, are:

Turbo-diesel Mercedes-Benz GL-Class

6-cylinder BMW X5

Turbo-diesel BMW X5

V8 Mercedes-Benz GL-Class

Mercedes-Benz R-Class

Audi Q7

Cadillac Escalade

All-wheel-drive Buick Enclave

V6 Mercedes-Benz M-Class

Lexus GX.

The V8 Mercedes-Benz GL-Class has below average reliability ratings for both model years of its 2-year 2010 data history, the 6-cylinder BMW X5 has below average ratings for 7 of its 9-year reliability history, and the all-wheel-drive Buick Enclave has one below average rating in its 2-year data history. The Lexus GX has one below average rating, but the remaining 5 ratings are above average and one is Much-Better-Than-Average. Consequently, as one descends on this list, longer-term reliability seems to improve with predicted short-term reliability.

The Bottom 10 Large SUVs, with worst first, are:

GMC Yukon Hybrid

Chevrolet Tahoe Hybrid

Front-wheel-drive GMC Acadia

All-wheel-drive GMC Acadia

All-wheel-drive Ford Flex

Nissan Armada

GMC Yukon

Chevrolet Tahoe

GMC Yukon XL 1500

Chevrolet Suburban 1500.

Consumer Reports’ reliability ratings are widely respected and followed by North American consumers seeking high quality products. h a low probability of serious problems.

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Source by James Bleeker

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Buying a new car or a used one requires research first, you want to get the best vehicle for your money and when it comes to the size of the engine and how much power is needed in your sports utility vehicle, it is good to know the difference between a 6 cylinders vs. 4 cylinders. Some things to consider when buying a car is to look at the many factors that determine power, design and fuel efficiency of the engine.

The Year, Make and Model can affect how different engines will perform

It is important to note that a 4 cylinder engine has four pistons and usually are in smaller cars for instance a Toyota Tacoma is a compact pickup truck first generation models from 1995 to 2004, two wheel drive Tacoma’s came with the 2.4L and the 2.7L four cylinder engine, while 6 cylinder engines has six pistons and are usually found on most passenger cars, vans and small trucks such as found in GMC truck V6 engine produced in 1960 to 1978 in the Chevrolet 250 cid inline 6. Theoretically the more pistons would equal more horsepower.

Is a 6 cylinder V6 engine better than a 4 cylinder engine?

The inline 6 has been replaced by the V6 engine because of its compact size and high performance engine is why it’s the best choice if you’re looking for a high power engine while still maintaining a great fuel economy for your SUV. The 4 cylinder as a straight or inline is standard in most vehicles and is considered an economy engine. Its lower emissions and fuel efficiency makes it the engine of choice for those concerned about the impact on the environment. So to determine which engine is better will depend on what you are looking for in the next automobile you purchase though more cylinders equal more power when comparing different engines.

Advances in Technology for the Modern 4 cylinder

Many had thought that 4 cylinders were short on acceleration, this is changing with Japanese auto makers building high performance SUV’s such as in the Toyota sports utility, where you have the choice of purchasing the Highlander, Rav4 and the new 2010 Toyota 4runner has a 2.7 liter four cylinder engine that produces 157 horsepower, the only difference between a modern 4 cylinder compared to a V6 is the cost, due to the advancement in performance over the last decade.

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Source by Ray B Spencer