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Personal Loan

Personal loan is perceived to be the most popular way to finance a car according to many surveys.

Borrowing money from a bank, building society or other lender gives you instant ownership of the car. Comparison websites such as money supermarket will show you which lenders offer the best deals.

The annual percentage rate (APR) is the easiest way to compare loans, and essential in working out how much a loan will cost you over the repayment period chosen. If the APR isn’t mentioned then ask the question, the headline rate is not always what you get it depends on your individual credit rating.

It’s a temptation to take a longer repayment period which makes the monthly repayment smaller but you will pay more interest. Keep the loan period as short as possible.

The downside to a personal loan unsecured is that in the event of default any of your assets could be seized. With dealer finance only the car is at risk in the event of payment default.

Go for a personal loan if you say YES to any of the following:

• You don’t have any deposit

• You want to own the car outright

• You plan to keep it for a while

• You don’t want annual mileage restrictions

Hire Purchase

After a bank loan hire purchase (HP) is the easiest way to buy a car.

Under HP agreements there’s usually a deposit to pay, typically 10% followed by fixed monthly payments. The car is owned by the HP funder until it’s paid for including any option to purchase fee. At that point the customer has the right to sell the vehicle.

However some customers do sell their cars before the final payment and the good news is for buyers of non-paid up cars is that the law protects private purchasers who buy without knowing the car is not fully owned and no matter what the police or anyone else tells you will get good title if you buy a car on HP in these circumstances. The finance company can ultimately take action against the seller but that’s not your problem.

The credit on an HP agreement is secured against the car, so it’s like dealer finance in that the car can only be seized in the event of default. If you need to sell the car before the end of your agreement you will have to settle the outstanding monies first and early settlement fees may apply.

Go for HP if you say YES to 1 of the following:

• Ultimate ownership is important to you

• Your budget and circumstances suit fixed monthly repayments

• Your disposable income may decrease over the agreement term (eg if you’re planning a family)

• You like credit secured against the car only

• You don’t mind not owning the car until the debt is fully paid.

Personal Contract Purchase (PCP

This product is probably the most popular product of all.

It’s a bit like HP in that you pay a deposit, a fixed rate if interest and monthly repayments usually over 12 to 48 months.

Where PCP differs from HP is at the end of the agreement you have 3 choices.

1. Return the car to the supplier

2. Keep the car

3. Trade the car in against a replacement

The first option returning the car costs nothing, unless you’ve gone over an agreed mileage or returned the car in poor condition. In either case there will be an excess to pay.

Keeping the car means making a final “balloon” payment. This amount is the cars guaranteed future value, or GFV, which is set at the start of the agreement.

The GFV is based on various factors, including the length of the loan and the anticipated mileage as well as the cars projected retail value. If you exercise this final buying option, you can continue to run the car, or you can sell it and pocket any equity above the GFV that you have paid back to the finance company.

If you’re trading in your car, any GFV equity can be used as deposit towards its replacement.

If your car has gone into negative equity which can happen you will have to make up the difference. Shorter agreements are more likely to accurately project the GFV.

Go for PCP if you can say YES to 1 of the following:

• You want lower monthly payments

• You like the flexibility of options at the end of the agreement

• Trade the car in against a replacement

Personal contract hire (PCH)

This product is basically renting your car for typically 2 or 3 years with an agreed mileage limit. There is no option to buy the car at the end of the contract you just hand the car and the keys back to the finance company. Your payments are covering the cars depreciation.

While you’re running it, you’re responsible for its upkeep. On the plus side, the deposit is low as are the fixed repayments and you can negate the impact of repair bills by including a maintenance element into the agreement.

Cars that hold their value well are a good PCH option because the difference in their new and three year old values will be smaller so you will repay a lower amount whilst cars that plummet in value will see you pay more.

Go for PCH if you can say YES to 1 of the following:

• You don’t want to own the car or suffer its depreciation

• You like being able to change cars often

• You like the idea of driving better cars than you could normally afford

• You don’t mind looking after cars

Dealer Finance

Research is a must here as motor dealers love lazy buyers who haven’t done their research. There is no point in haggling on vehicle price if you waste it all on a poor finance deal.

Check out detail on current and forthcoming manufacturer finance deals. These might include interest free or low APR rates or deposit contributions.

Don’t fix on the rate or monthly payment though look at the total repayable to understand the total cost and compare with what you can find in the open market.

Also don’t assume that a dealers finance rate is set in stone, everything is negotiable. Take time to go through things you are not sure about and get the final offer in writing.

The only thing at risk if you don’t keep up dealer finance repayments is the car. Bear in mind that even with sweeteners thrown in the dealer will still make money somewhere in the deal and you are paying for it.

Go for dealer finance if you can say YES to 1 of the following:

• You like the convenience of “package” deals

• You’re happy to do some comparison research

• You don’t want to do the research but you don’t mind paying extra

Self – finance

If you want to own your car using your own money by buying outright it does make some sense when UK savings rates are so low. Buying a car outright is also a sensible alternative to leasing if your mileage is high or unpredictable because of excess mileage charges.

Using a credit card be an advantage as many funders offer 0% on balance transfers and purchases. You can avoid paying interest charges altogether by changing you card at the end of interest free periods.

The choice is yours!

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Source by Tom Skilling

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Restoring a classic car can be a scary topic for some people. There are a lot of different types of work that goes into a classic car restoration and most people are not skilled at all of them. When you break the process down into the types of repairs that go into your classic car restoration, it’s easier to come to grips with what you really can or can’t do yourself.

An accounting of your skills can help you decide how much work you can do yourself, and how much of the restoration work you should get done by a professional.

Your classic car restoration can be broken down into a few repair categories.

• Knowing your car,
• Mechanical repairs
• Electrical repairs
• Interior or upholstery work
• Sheet metal or rust repair
• Surface preparation and refinishing
• Auto body and painting
• Trim or molding repair and refinishing

Some of these categories are self explanatory. Allow me to clarify the ones that aren’t so obvious.

Knowing your car

Cars have always been available with options like sport trim packages, air conditioning, V8, 6 cylinder, or 4 cylinder engines, and the list goes on. As the car gets on in years, some of these options get removed from the vehicle, replaced with something substandard, or never replaced at all. Option codes and shop manuals are generally available for most American classic cars that detail this information.

Mechanical repairs

This covers a lot of what makes up a car and would be most of the moving parts. You’ll find the engine and transmission will need rebuilding, as well as all the regular maintenance repairs like brakes and suspension, and rebuilding components parts like starters, water pumps, and generators. Other components that rarely get considered are the under dash parts like heater or vent controls, window parts inside the doors, hinges, and latches. I’m only touching on the subject, but you get the idea.

Electrical repairs

Electrical can be the scariest of them all. On an old vehicle the sheathing on the wiring can be dry rotted, and cracked and brittle creating the risk of an electrical short. Switches wear out and even fall apart. On some vehicle where these parts are impossible to find, you’ll need to be creative and improvise by using parts from another vehicle make.

Interior or upholstery work

Cloth, vinyl, leather, threading, and stuffing or padding materials all dry rot over time and need to be replaced. Colors fade really bad as well.

Sheet metal or rust repair

Any metal made with iron will rust, even aluminum will oxidize and even disintegrate under the right conditions. The body sheet metal will need to be replaced or patched. This means knowing how to work with sheet metal, how to weld, and even how to shape metal.

Surface preparation and refinishing

Other than the exterior of the car body, there is a lot of sheet metal surface that will need to be stripped of old paint and surface rust, then prepared so it won’t rust anymore, then painted again. This includes the car frame, suspension parts, differential, fasteners and more.

Auto body and painting

Aside from the sheet metal work the exterior of the car body will need to be smoothed and painted. This is an enormous amount of work which is why it can be so expensive.

Trim or molding repair and refinishing

Classic car trim and molding was made mostly from metals. There are steel chrome plated parts, chrome plated pot metal parts, aluminum, stainless steel and even brass or copper. until recently, some parts can’t be fixed and re-plated, pot metal is on of those. In extreme cases, you’ll need to weld new metal into your trim or moldings, grind and sand them down, polish them and get them ready for re-plating.

That’s a lot to know how to do.

Luckily there are some really good how-to DVD’s available that cover all these topics. Even still you might want to specialize in only 2 or 3 of these skills, and get a professional to do the others.

Learning how to do something like this can be entertaining. Even you if you don’t plan on doing some of this work yourself, you’ll want to know how the work is done so you can recognize a job well done.

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Source by Carl M King

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The majority of Fisher Price Power Wheels vehicles are really focused at children above the age of three, which you would think means a great choice for parents with children in this age group. Not so. Parents’ continuously pay large amounts of money on the vehicle that looks the best for their particular child and wrongly assume that they all have the same great Fisher Price performance, capability and fun factor under the hood. Wrong again.

For so many parents, their child’s battery powered ride-on just becomes a costly mistake and either ends up cast aside or not really used or they actually spend another large sum of money to now buy the appropriate vehicle. This super quick parent guide attempts to help those parents on the verge of buying a Fisher Price Power Wheels vehicle for their child and hopefully will save you from making the same costly mistakes like so many other parents before and provide your child with maximum safe driving fun at the same time.

Speed

Buy a model that will give your growing child the necessary speed that they will inevitably want as time goes on. Power Wheels vehicles are currently powered by either a 6 volt battery or a 12 volt battery. 6 volts will generally drive the vehicle at about 2.5mph, whereas the 12 volt battery will power the vehicle forward at a maximum of 5mph. However, these ‘official’ top speeds are under perfect conditions running on a fully charged optimal battery and a perfectly flat, smooth and clean road surface. In reality, you will probably achieve a little less speed.

The 6 volt 2.5mph limit is fine for your older child when they are just getting used to their new toy, but give it a few weeks and the ‘crawling’ 6 volt speed becomes very boring, very quickly for them, particularly as other kids on bicycles zip past them!

Off Road Driving

Buy a model that is capable of dealing with everyday surfaces other than just the smooth road. In reality you kid will want to drive over concrete, grass and gravel. Some Power Wheels vehicles have been designed for kids that mainly use them in their grass back yard or in the park, but countless parents buy models that simply come to a standstill or enter into crawl mode when they get onto grass and the parents spend most of the time pushing their child and vehicle out.

It is not only the ATV or off road looking vehicles that have off road capability, some of the normal cars have great off road capability as well. Being able to perform over less desirable surface conditions really comes down to the power of the battery (12 volts = best), traction ability (the new Monster Traction = best), tire tread and width (wide rugged tires = best) and weight of vehicle (lighter = best).

Brake Safety

Buy a model with the Fisher Price Power Wheels ‘Power Lock’ braking system. This is especially important for the faster 12 volt vehicles as opposed to the slower 6 volt vehicles. It’s one thing for your child to race their new ride on toy at top speed downhill, but it is always nice to know that when it comes to stopping that the vehicle’s braking system can actually stop your child quickly and under control.

The Power Lock braking system is being fitted to most of the 12 volt vehicles now and really does go a long way in providing more capable stopping ability for your child to maximize safety and minimize harm for them. For the older and more advanced drivers out there, this braking system also allows you to pull off some great slides!

Top Power Wheels Picks For Older Children

The most popular and consistently highly rated Fisher Price Power Wheels vehicles that have 12 volt batteries, ‘more than’ smooth road surface capability and are fitted with the Power Lock braking system include: Barbie Jammin Jeep, Rubicon Jeep, Ford F150, Cadillac Escalade, Kawasaki KFX Ninja, Barbie Ford Mustang and partially applicable is the Lightning McQueen.

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Source by Laura Robbinson

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Getting a scratch removed from your car is a job that shouldn’t cost a great deal of money – yet some companies on the market for this service seem to have a different idea, and charge ridiculous prices for this procedure these days. If you want to avoid falling for a trap like that, and want to make sure that you won’t get ripped off when you go to get a car scratch repair job, you’ll need to take a few precautions. Thankfully, as long as you know what you’re doing, it shouldn’t be that difficult to find a company that will work well enough for you.

You should start with some thorough research about the companies in your area that provide this service – depending on where you live, there should be a good choice of companies that you can take your car to, to have a scratch removed from it. Have a look at their websites if they have them, and compare the prices between the different companies before you’ve even started contacting them. You need to have a good idea of what each company can offer you in terms of price and quality of their services before you even take things further, as otherwise you’re going to waste a lot of time in your search.

Remember that a car scratch repair job should only concentrate on the scratch itself – some companies may try to convince you that they would need to completely repaint the vehicle, but in almost all cases this is simply not true. Nowadays there are various ways to get rid of a nasty scratch on your car without having to redo the paintjob of the car as a whole, so just talk to the different companies that you’re visiting and ask them how they’re going to do the job. In addition, you must make sure that if they’re fixing the scratch locally, they’ll know how to match the color of the paint to the car’s current shade – this is important, as a darker/lighter spot on the paintjob of your car can have an effect just as negative as a scratch.

Last but not least, on a similar note, you should get a guarantee for the longevity of the repair job in some form – after all, it doesn’t make much sense to submit your car for a scratch removal, only to be forced to come back in a few days/weeks because the paint has started to fade in the area where the scratch was repaired. Always check to make sure that the job that would be done on your car will be a quality one and won’t leave you with more problems than you originally had – especially in the long term. And if you’re satisfied with the services of the company you used for that repair job, keep in touch with them – you never know when you might need something similar done on your car in the near future, so it’s good to know where you can go for that!

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Source by Jay Kenneth

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Words can be a very powerful tool of communication, but it is important that the correct word is chosen to convey the correct information. One word can change the whole context of a sentence or a contract. It can also be the difference between whether your client has insurance coverage in a certain situation or not. When entering into an insurance policy contained in a “driver exclusion”, understanding the difference between the words contained in a “driver exclusion” is vital to ensure you fully understand the policy’s coverage, and can explain it to your prospect.

Since car dealerships can have many drivers, some with undesirable driving records, insurance companies many require that a “driver exclusion” endorsement be added to the policy or a “driver restriction” becomes part of business practice. Basically, a driver exclusion is an endorsement added to an insurance policy which is signed by the policyholder and the individual named on the exclusion acknowledging that the insurance will not apply under certain circumstances described in the endorsement. It is important to note that the absence of coverage does not take away responsibility from the policyholder or the excluded driver if the excluded individual is involved in an accident. These forms can vary greatly among insurance companies. Each can have a different effect on an insurance policy and should be reviewed with by the policyholder with their agent and their attorney. Some states have determined that a driver exclusion endorsement continues to be effective into a renewal policy without executing a new endorsement. It is important to make sure that if an excluded employee’s driving record has improved that this is reviewed with the insurance agent any time during the policy period, and especially at time of policy renewal.

Because driver exclusions are effective in most states in changing insurance coverage, they are added to a policy by special endorsement and become part of the insurance policy. Although the titling of these endorsements is very similar, the wording contained in the endorsement can vary greatly and have a carrying effect on the coverage.

Some endorsements show titles such as “Driver Excluded”, “Driver Exclusion” and “Named Driver Exclusion.” Titles such as these would make you think they all would change your coverage the same exclude coverage for a specific employee. For the endorsement to be effective in its intent, it will also include wording eliminating coverage for the dealership and all named insureds. Let’s take a closer look at some of the endorsement wording to see how they may impact your client’s business. Remember, each claim situation and specific state laws and regulations many change our general explanations.

The following are excerpts from one driver exclusion endorsement. “The person indicated below is excluded from coverage.. when driving any motor vehicle… and this exclusion applies to all insureds.” This endorsement appears to remove coverage only when the person named in the endorsement is driving. But it refers to any motor vehicle and does not address ownership of the vehicle. This would lead the impression that the exclusion applies to the dealership’s vehicles, customer vehicles, vehicles owned by the named person and any other vehicle they may be driving and potentially involves the business.

Another driver exclusion contains the following: “The person designated… is excluded from any coverage… when operating any motor vehicle… applicable to all insureds of this policy… whether or not the operation as with expressed or implied permission…” This is similar to the previous example, but not exact. In this endorsement, they use the term “operating” instead of “driving” and add a condition about permissive use. Is “driving” different than “operating?” If one of the mechanics named in a driver exclusion is showing a customer why they are having a certain complaint with their car by starting their car, opening a door, hood or deck lid, will this be considered “operating?” If any of the mechanic’s actions cause damage to the customer and the insurance company considers his actions as “operating,” then will insurance coverage will not be provided for that incident. This endorsement sample has added wording addressing permissive use clarifying that giving an excluded driver permission to use a vehicle, or the excluded driver driving without permission, will not void the endorsement.

Although this next endorsement example does not specifically state that it will not cover the policyholder, it does state that this insurance does not apply and the assumption can be made that it will not apply to any insured when an excluded driver is involved in an accident. The following wording is quite different from the previous two examples and seems to broaden, beyond “driving” or “operating”, the types of situations that will not be covered. The wording is: “This insurance does not apply… arising out of the ownership, maintenance or use… This exclusion will also serve as a rejection of the Uninsured Motorist, Underinsured Motorist…and Personal Injury Protection…” In this situation, your client has a good employee with an unacceptable driving record and their insurance company is requiring this exclusion. Your client wants to keep the employee, realizing they are now excluded per the endorsement and reassigns them to detailing or washing vehicles. While performing their duties, they injure a customer. They may not have coverage if your client’s insurance company considers this “maintenance.”

The example endorsement wording contained in the above paragraphs is actual extractions from endorsements currently used by insurance companies that are writing insurance for auto dealerships and various garage businesses. These endorsements usually state that they modify insurance provided under the Garage Coverage Form and Business Auto Coverage Form. Both of these coverage forms contain coverages other than liability coverage, such as Garagekeepers Legal Liability, Physical Damage to inventory and other endorsements for Auto Med Pay, Uninsured Motorist, No Fault and many other optional coverages that can be effected by a driver exclusion endorsement. Advise your client to make sure their insurance agent tells them what coverage and endorsements will be effected by a driver exclusion endorsement.

Since a major part of your client’s business involves the use and driving of automobiles, a driver exclusion naming any of their key employees can have a significant effect on their daily business activities and financial stability if an excluded driver is involved in a not covered claim. What can you do to help your client avoid having driver exclusions added to their policy??

If your client asks their insurance agent to specifically find out why their insurance company wants to exclude an individual, your client along with the individual can determine if there is anything that can be done to remove the insurance company’s concern and avoid having the exclusion on their policy. Upon request, the insurance agent can research other insurance companies to determine if they will demand the same restrictions excluding certain drivers and verify any significant change in pricing. If the policyholder prefers to stay with their current insurance company, advise them to suggest a driver restriction form rather than a driver exclusion endorsement. Typically, a driver restriction form is not part of an insurance policy and does not affect coverage. It is used as a management and vehicle control tool in restricting the driving activities of selected employees that have undesirable driving records. The form requires the signature of the concerned employee and the policyholder, both agreeing to its terms. Depending on the individual’s position with the company and the types of driving violations, the form can restrict all driving or specifically list various situations describing when the individual is permitted to drive. This type of in-house agreement has been acceptable by some insurance companies in lieu of enforcing a driver exclusion endorsement.

Implementing a formal loss prevention program that includes a driver training program, encouraging defensive driving for employees and monitoring employee motor vehicle records may also help convince an insurance company to remove driver exclusion endorsements from a policy. In some situations, your client may also want to install GPS tracking devices allowing them to track their employees’ driving habits and destinations.

If any of these suggestions are successful in removing driver exclusion endorsements from your client’s insurance policy, they are worth yours, as well as your client’s efforts and cost in keeping their insurance company from eliminating coverage from them and named drivers. Their insurance company may still require driver exclusion endorsements for some individuals with very poor driving history. If this happens, advise the client to make sure the endorsement is limited in its restrictions and specifies the coverages effected.

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Source by John Krivacsy

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Over the recent years, 4WD has evolved from a hobby to a quintessential motoring lifestyle catering to large families, industries and businesses. 4WD vehicles provide that much needed support to families that are often mobile, industries that require access to places that common vehicles can’t traverse, and a person’s need to have something bigger and powerful for those “just in case I need it” instances.

After years of improvisation and evolution, 4WD has its share of facts and trivia that is both fun and useful knowledge. Here are some of them that are sure to increase your interest in 4WD.

1. 1898, Latil (French) Built a 4×4 gun tractor during the WWII era. This concept sprung from his manufacturing of power packs as replacement for the front axle shafts and horse of carts.
2. The first 4WD vehicle was designed by Ferdinand Porsche (founder of Porsche cars). He designed the vehicle when he was 25 years old.
3. First mechanical 4WD was built by the Dutch company Jacobus Spyker in 1902.
4. Four Wheel drive auto company (FWD) built the first US vehicle in 1911. FWD supplied 4WD trucks to both British and US Marines during WW1.
5. Mercedes and BMW followed in 1926 with their line of 4WD vehicles for commercial consumption.
6. “Wankertank” or “Toorak Tractor”: colloquial names for 4WD commonly heard in and around the Melbourne area. Wankertank are 4WD’s that are only driven around town, while Toorak Tractor is a name pertaining to the exclusive eastern suburb of Toorak where these vehicles are mostly seen.
7. The first 4WD Formula 1 racing car was the Ferguson P99 Climax. It remains the most famous specimen to garner twin claims to fame. The first 4WD car and the last front-engine car to ever bag a spot in a F1 event.
8. The most radical 4WD vehicle is one made by a Russian armour-car builder Russo Baltique, who among all other details of the vehicle used whale penis leather as the seat covering. The Russian car company manufactures safety vehicles for Russia’s Tsars and top officials. The vehicle is named the Dartz Prombron Monacco Red Diamond Edition which is claimed to be the world’s most expensive vehicle at the time. Expensive it is, with gold-plated bulletproof windows, exhaust made of tungsten, diamond and ruby encrusted gauges and a Kevlar coating for the exterior. A shortage of whale penis leather was a concern until facts came in that a Blue Whale penis can grow up to 2.4 meters. The manufacturer has not mentioned so far the kind of whale that they get the penis leather from.
9. World’s first pedal powered 4WD vehicle was created by a German fellow, Frank Fraune and called it the Trailcart. The Trailcart is a metamorphosis of a mountain bike and 4WD with 290Nn of torque. 400mm of axle displacements helping it master rugged terrain. This invention is receiving some serious reviews by investors which include Land Rover who tested the vehicle in its obstacle park in Wulfrath, Germany.
10. Australians are the world’s biggest buyers of 4WD vehicles.

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Source by Frank Reid

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The definition of an audio capacitor is: it’s an electrical circuit which is used to store charge temporarily. You should not confuse it with a battery, because a cap holds temporarily a charge. It consists of two plates of metal which are separated by a dielectric.

The new types of capacitors on the market come in a cylindrical shape of about three inches in diameter and about a foot long. There are also audio capacitors in rectangular shapes available for different technologies. There is a negative and a positive terminal that turns on or off the LCD display. It’s not important the shape they come in, but these capacitors are designed for one thing, which is storage of the electrical power.

An audio capacitor can charge and discharge very fast and thus, stabilizing the voltage to the amplifier. By doing the stabilization on the voltage, you help the amplifier reduce distortion and produce more power consistently.

More about capacitors for your car

1. Audio capacitors can accumulate power whenever it is not required.

2. When the demand for power exceeds the supply capacity of the power system of the car, then this power accumulated by the capacitor is released.

3. A car audio capacitor usually ranges from 0.5 farads to 3 farads.

4. It is needed to ensure the good functioning of the amplifier.

5. If you install it, you have to be sure it complements your amplifier. And, as well, you also need to place the capacitor as near as possible to the amplifier.

6. To 500 RMS of power output you need a capacitor of 0.5 farads.

Do you need a car audio capacitor?

You have a problem when you see this particular symptom: Headlights dimming. If your system has trouble with the headlights dimming, that means that a capacitor is needed. Get a cap. This is a pretty good guess but it’s not always true and certainly it’s not a guaranteed cure. With this being said, it’s also important that, before installation of a capacitor it’s generally best to install the audio equipment. In this case you will be able to see which symptoms need to be remedied and assess the severity of the symptoms. This way you will also know how much capacitance would be beneficial.

Get one that fits your needs!

Today’s market has a large range of capacitors that fit your system:

– For mid-level systems (1000 watts maximum), you need a 1 Farad capacitor.

– For 1000 – 2000w systems, you need 1.1 to 1.9 Farad capacitor.

– For 2000 – 3000w systems, you need 2 to 2.9 Farad capacitor.

– For high power (over 5000 watt) systems, you need 5+ Farad capacitor.

An audio capacitor is especially important for amplified systems that are highly powered. With a new and improved capacitor wired into the system, your amplifier will do the best job in playing at high volumes, and with the help of it, you’ll avoid the well-known side effects like the lights dimming when the music is very loud.

Now why not choose an audio capacitor that brings the best in a system?

There are numerous capacitors on the market, but why not choose wisely? After all, it’s for your own joy that you deserve!

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Source by Sheldon Kelly

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From the business point of view, printing is a highly profitable business. It can be used to gain the market and control important share of the market with properly printed products. There are many products that cane produced in this field. One of highly successful products is called the vinyl sticker printing. It gives the printing companies an opportunity to offer stylish and innovative products that are also quite useful for the outdoor marketing campaigns.

There are many varieties of printing products. Some of them are easy to produce while the others require the use of some advanced technologies and tools. An example of the sophisticated product is vinyl decal sticker printing which requires the use of advanced machinery to produce high quality vinyl decal products that can be used for a number of products.

The decals are used on many surfaces. They are quite easy to use. In fact, a decal is a special sticker as it does not stick to a place rather it imprints to a surface. The paper or plastic that has the sticker design on it is pasted on a surface and then removed, which leaves behind the imprint of the design. For example, the vehicle window decals are used in the same way to save the vehicle from permanent stickers.

With a huge variety of products, the stickers printing business can be turned into a very profitable one. Most of the customers want these products to be used for usually two purposes: marketing and advertisement. This offers the printing companies a great opportunity to cash on and make huge profits by delivering top class services.

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Source by John Ronald Turner

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If you’re like most new UTV owners that drop a hard-earned wad of cash on a shiny, bone-stock new machine, you probably discover on that first ride that the one accessory you should have budgeted for was a high quality windshield. With many of the new machines on the market capable of freeway speed on firm ground, and the likely scenario that your recreational use includes some dusty, rainy, or snowy driving, it’s not long before most drivers opt for a more permanent alternative than motorcycle goggles.

So why not just head down to your nearest dealer and throw a couple hundred bucks at whatever’s in stock? At first glance it may seem like a pretty simple purchase. Just make sure it fits your vehicle and you’re in business, right? But there’s a reason for the wide selection of UTV windshields available. Side by side owners are an adventurous, varied group of enthusiasts with applications ranging from recreational use in dunes or trails, to hunting, to a second street legal vehicle to get around town in on those fair weather days. Besides your application, there are several other major considerations that should be made to avoid buyer’s remorse. What type of weather do you encounter frequently? Will you be trailering your UTV every time you use it? Do you want to have the option to remove it from the vehicle easily? What type of warranty options should you consider? This posting will address these questions to help you make an educated purchase.

There are two major reasons that owners purchase a windshield, and they are both critical to your continued enjoyment of your UTV. The most obvious is to protect your face and body from dust and debris. Unless you use your UTV exclusively on the street, you will likely get a mouth full of bugs or at least a thin layer of your local soil all over you from that very first ride. The good news is that literally any windshield, even the one-size-fits-all half windshields that are commonly seen on UTVs operating in sand dunes, will at least limit your exposure. Half windshields are often a good choice for low dust, hot weather applications where insulating the cabin is not an issue. In addition to the universal half windshields that will fit any model, there are many manufacturers, like Moose Division, that make both fixed and folding half windshields in the $150-$350 price range.

Speaking of weather, what’s the temperature and precipitation frequency where you ride the most? If you find yourself frequently battling the brutal winters of the Mid-west or Northeast (or any of you wacky Canadians), you not only want a full windshield, you may want to consider one of the heavy duty glass windshields that usually include a wiper option. While expensive, this will likely be the last windshield you will ever buy for your side by side. They are as strong as a car windshield and won’t scratch, and they offer the added benefit of insulating the cabin, particularly when integrated with a cab enclosure. If your weather conditions trend closer to the triple digits, in addition to the afore-mentioned half windshields, there are many vented Full Windshields on the market. Check out options like the patent-pending “Coolflo” Polaris RZR Windshield by Trail Armor or “lock and ride” models that are easily removable with thumb screws. Both are available in the $200-$400 price range.

I’ve talked a little about Windshield materials, and there is good reason for the incredibly wide price range between different materials available. Obviously, glass is the most expensive because it requires mounting in a thick, heavy frame (it’s already mounted in the frame for you), and is usually of the same quality as automotive windshield. These are usually the only windshields that have a wiper option available. They are an excellent choice for most applications other than racing, where the weight and added drag will slow you down. They are virtually impossible to break and are usually DOT approved (street legal). Most states require a windshield for any four wheel motor vehicle, and if you are ticketed for driving without one, the ticket may be close to the cost of a new windshield. Don’t get busted without one!

Most plastic Polaris RZR windshields fall into two categories: Acrylic (buy at least 1/4″ thick for strength) and Polycarbonate (usually 3/16″ thick). Both are sturdy enough to handle the elements, but usually only the thicker polycarbonate is DOT approved. If you plan on having your windshield on your UTV most of the time, it makes sense to spend a little extra on the heavier polycarbonate. It’s considerably stronger than acrylic and the way most owners beat up their machines, you’ll likely be glad you did. The strongest option (next to glass) is hard coated MR-10 Lexan, a super-hard material used in demanding applications like light aircraft windshields and medical grade instruments. It will never haze or yellow and it is safe to leave on when trailering your side by side. No matter what windshield you decide on, be sure to verify that the manufacturer warranties the windshield for trailering. This is the most common reason for UTV windshield breakage. EMP makes a great fixed Lexan windshield for the Polaris RZR and Polaris Ranger, among other models. It even includes a wiper option on some models.

There are essentially two mounting options to consider when purchasing any windshield. Will it require tools to remove it from your machine or not? Glass windshields are too heavy to take on and off regularly, so go with plastic if your application requires this flexibility. Most easily removable options include some form of “lock and ride” system that allows easy removal with thumb screws. They can usually be removed anywhere by one person as long as they are strong enough to lift the windshield off the cage. Most windshields do not require drilling, but use clamps that secure the windshield to the roll cage.

While windshields are usually great for protecting passengers from the elements, backdraft dust can be another issue, particularly if you have a windshield/roof combo on your side by side. This is where cab backs are a great option. These rear windows that bolts to the rear of the cage to keep dust, snow and rain out of the passenger area. Most offer the same easily removable thumbscrew system as the “lock and ride” windshields, and they are available from Kolpin and others for around $200.

No matter the type of windshield you decide on, it makes good sense to invest in a Brand made by a quality manufacturer such as those mentioned in this article. Bargain-basement models made of thin acrylic that are passed off as a “one size fits all solution” are often cheaply made sheets of plastic with a couple of clamps made by retailers who are trying to squeeze maximum profit out of their customers. Name brand warrantees will protect you from junk that might break your first time out. Take it from someone who has replaced more than one windshield on the same vehicle.

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Source by Kevin R Connors

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The one thing that can be certain with technology is that as it advances, our privacy retreats. Many high tech devices are great at spying, probing and prying our daily movements and activities, and now it is easier than ever for average citizens to get into the game as well. GPS tracking technology is no different. This technology allows employers, parents and jealous ex-lovers to track our movements as easy as logging into a GPS tracking system, and as affordable as a monthly cable bill. As an individual, how do you get your privacy back? There are 2 effective ways for taking yourself off of the GPS radar grid.

1. Purchase a GPS Jamming Device

GPS Jamming devices work off of the concept that if the signal can’t reach the GPS tracking device, then no tracking can take place. GPS Jamming devices work by sending out a stronger localized signal that effectively blocks the incoming tracking data so the tracking device can’t see the signal to be able to store the coordinates into the device. No tracking information is then recorded in the device because there is nothing to record. GPS jamming devices work within a small area and are effective in vehicles in jamming the signal to the vehicle’s tracking device, or they can be used on your person to jam any GPS device you are carrying (such as a cell phone).

The major issue with these devices is that many localities ban the sale of these devices because they are transmitting signals at frequencies that the FCC doesn’t like. Even though these devices are only effective at a short distance, owning these devices is still prohibited. It is similar to having radar detecting equipment in localities that have made it illegal. You can find places online willing to sell these jamming devices to anyone willing to take the risk of getting caught with one.

2. Use Good Old Fashioned Technology

Another way to jam GPS signals is to use good old fashioned technology… metal foil. If you can find the wires in the GPS tracking device, you can wrap the wires in a metal foil (aluminum foil or some other type of metal foil) and you will be able to block much of the signal coming into the device. The issue is that you have to know where the GPS tracking device is and you have to know where the antennae wires are on the device. If the device is in some hidden part of the automobile, you may have some digging to do in order to find it, and it may be difficult to encase the wires in foil.

Unfortunately, the ways in which you regain your privacy when it comes to being tracked through GPS tracking device. Even though your options may be limited, they are effective. The solution you use to keep your privacy may be determined by where you live and the local laws in your area.

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Source by B Hopkins